Get into O2 guys, if you're serious about nicer beer

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Too easy!

O2 Setup.JPG
 
Yes rocker, it's lag increase due to more O2 been used up. It'll fire away hard in about 36 to 48 hrs.

All good...
 
Rocker1986 said:
I pitched the yeast into my second batch using O2 yesterday arvo at about 4.15pm. It's an APA brew, OG at 1.051 in 26 litres, pitched with 1272 yeast from a starter. It's now sitting at between 18 and 18.3C or thereabouts. The cube was chilled down to about 20C in the brew fridge after I kegged the previous batch, and oxygen was injected for between 90 seconds and 2 minutes after tipping into the fermenter, and the yeast was then pitched cold into the wort. I checked it about 9.30 this morning and there was no sign of activity but another hour later and it looks like it's beginning to get going, with groups of small bubbles appearing on the surface.

Is this lag time of about 18/19 hours normal for this process and the yeast strain? I seem to remember reading that the lag time might be increased a bit with the added oxygen as the yeast will use it all up first before getting going, so I'm not worried about it and 18/19 hours isn't that long really, but just curious as to what other people have experienced. In the past before I began using O2, when I pitched ale yeast cold into the wort, I noticed lag times about half this time. Thoughts?
oxygenate a second time at around the 12 hr mark.
 
When you say you pitched yeast cold, did you pitch it at the same or very close to the wort temp?

If you pitched chilled down starter into 20 c wort you prob have shocked it.
 
Coldspace said:
Yes rocker, it's lag increase due to more O2 been used up. It'll fire away hard in about 36 to 48 hrs.
All good...
I'm not seeing this lag. My latest has just blown through the glad wrap at around 30 hours. So far quicker and more intense than in the past. Not enough O2? I gave it around 3 mins worth.
 
The yeast is pitched cold straight from the fridge, or at least I take it out and decant it before getting the fermenter ready and wort into it. I read something on here last year about letting it warm up for hours causing it to use up all its trelahose reserves and therefore being more vulnerable to osmotic pressure at pitching time, whereas pitching cold doesn't allow this. Ever since I've started pitching cold yeast into warm wort I've noticed a significant decrease in the lag times, and no detrimental effects on the beer. I was always led to believe that pitching warm yeast into cold wort was worse for shocking it than the other way around.

I use the same method pitching yeast into starters and they're up and going in 2-3 hours usually.

In any case, the krausen was up and going nicely by the 24 hour mark. It may be bigger now but I'm not home to check it.
 
I am interested in getting an O2 setup and can see the benefits but one thing I was wondering about was when did commercial breweries start using oxygenation?

For example. Does Chimay use oxygenation and when did they start? Do they get better attenuation now than before? Did they use higher pitching rates previously to make up for lack of oxygenation?

They make some big, well attenuated beers. Obviously simple sugar plays a part but yeast health is also obviously important.
 
Killer Brew said:
I'm not seeing this lag. My latest has just blown through the glad wrap at around 30 hours. So far quicker and more intense than in the past. Not enough O2? I gave it around 3 mins worth.
What were you brewing out of interest?
 
Brewnicorn said:
What were you brewing out of interest?
IPA with OG of 1060. Yeast was Wyeast American Ale. At 48 hours it is still going nuts, SG down to 1038. So not ridiculous gravity drops but would be equal to the most vigorous ferment I have experienced.
 
Ha, anything but as far as the recipe is concerned but the ferment is hardcore. Blow off tube in future. The wait is on now to see where the FG finishes, that will be a key measure of success for me as in the past I would have struggled to get this below 1015. I mashed at 62 degrees and pitched a big starter so have given it every chance.
 
Alchomist said:
On the phone, can't see your location?
Sunshine Coast, not much good to you I'm afraid.
 
Batz said:
All stainless but has been stored several years so will need a wire brush up.
Just a word of caution about cleaning crap from stainless steel - if you use a wire brush, use only one with stainless steel wire. Using a run-of-the-mill wire brush will scratch the surface and leave tiny fragments which will cause rust.

These recommendations are from a manufacturer's website:

NEVER EVER use
*steel wool (wire wool) to clean stainless steel. It is usually made of carbon steel and any fragments left behind will rust onto the stainless steel surface.
* pre-used scourer, which may previously have been used on ordinary (carbon) steel, is also a NEVER DO, for the same reason.

Stainless steel wool scouring pads are available for heavy duty work, like removing burnt food from stainless steel saucepans. These will scratch the stainless steel surface, but won’t leave fragments to go rusty.

TOTALLY AVOID
* Rubbing with steel wool (wire wool) or scraping with steel tools
* Using scourers and cleaning cloths that have been used on ordinary steel
* Rubbing plastic scourers across the grain of brushed surfaces
* Using concentrated bleach or hydrochloric acid-based cleaning
* Contact with product containing chlorine bleach, hydrochloric or muriatic acid
 
husky said:
Hey mate did you still have any O2 regulators to get rid of? I'm weighing up going the tradeflame kit or a bunnings Coregas "trade and go" D size setup which would need a proper reg.
All gone mate.
 

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