Get into O2 guys, if you're serious about nicer beer

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I haven't brewed in 2 months now and mainly because I'm convinced that I'm somewhat wasting my time until I can at least get aeration into my wort and preferably with O2. This comes after consistent feedback from comps all pointing towards fermentation quality. Plans are in motion and hopefully I will be able to taste the difference.
 
big78sam said:
Scrolling through other threads and found this. A lot changes in 4 years hey?

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/63261-where-can-i-get-an-oxygen-tank/

Not trying to troll you, I just found it humorous. I've done the same about other things.
My opinion is vastly different from 4yrs ago.
Oxygen is not essential & you can make award winning beers without it. Shaking the fermenter vigorously for some time or spraying the wort into your fermenter is adequate & you will get enough oxygen for the yeast to do their job, but, adding O2 to the wort before pitching will dissolve more oxygen for the yeast allowing much more vitality & a more complete ferment with a crisper, cleaner finish. It's definitely better & produces a far superior beer without question.
 
2much2spend said:
I've been looking at a tri clover inline defusion stone in a tee. They are rare but on line somewhere. Has anyone used this type?

https://www.morebeer.com/products/stainless-oxygenation-stone-15-tri-clamp.html
I saw something along these lines at Fortitude when we visited, looked like it was a custom job with a ball lock post welded on to a tri clover end cap that presumably had a diffusion stone on the inside. This was inline between the plate chiller and the fermenter.

On reviewing the photos, it wasn't a triclover, possibly threaded on. I guess it's all CIP.

fortitude o2 1.jpg


fortitude o2 2.jpg
 
pat_00 said:
My setup was a 'budget' O2 reg and stone from Grain and Grape, I think was $70 or $80, then a disposable O2 tank from Masters for $25.
$25 for an O2 is a bargain! Can't see anything like that on the Bunnings website though.
 
Been using O2 for years now and just some points I noticed in order of importance

1. Happy yeast (bigger krausens, dense yeast, minimal lag time).
2. My back thanks me for not lifting a fermentor and shaking the shit out of it.
3. Actually reaching the predicted FG (beersmith estimate)
4. Ferments were completed 2-3 days quicker.


I cant say I noticed taste difference because at the time I wasn't brewing consistent recipes, I never had a house beer at that point.
 
Is it true that the most beers will drop an extra couple of points. I've always had trouble getting any beers below 1.012. Hydrometer is not out and even brewing a smash coopers beer mash at 62° for 2 hours didn't get it below 1.010. Wondering if this is my next step. Been wondering for a year or so but haha.
 
Kingy said:
Is it true that the most beers will drop an extra couple of points. I've always had trouble getting any beers below 1.012. Hydrometer is not out and even brewing a smash coopers beer mash at 62° for 2 hours didn't get it below 1.010. Wondering if this is my next step. Been wondering for a year or so but haha.
62°!!!!!!!!!!!
 
For years I've been using a stick blender for up to 10 minutes, until the whole wort is like a milkshake - and the stick blender is almost too hot to touch. This had solved all of my previous stuck ferment woes (even for that stubborn bitch WY1969 ESB). But, reading this thread has made me wonder whether it's worth taking the extra step and investing in c02. :blink:

So lets suppose I get one of these, this tank and that reg, what else do I need? Presumably just some 6mm vinyl hose & screw clamps?
 
Im using a tradeflame setup...

Used to aerate with paint stirrer for 3 minutes, but the O2 is better..

Will be buying the bunnings setup now my 2 kits and bits mates are impressed. Go thirds with them, bottle will last us poss years. Bargain for quality improvement.

I've tested this now on my house staples, a 150 lashes type pale ale dry hopped up, my IPA and my Irish red ale, these all have turned out superior in everyway.

I got home yesterday, normally would have 2 pots but was so impressed in quality that I had a session , bit tired now lol...

It's improved my mates kits, they are stocked..

I started really wanting to improve my beers. Fermentation us one of the major secretes... Using nice healthy starters really upped my quality last couple years, but the O2 really is the icing on the cake ...

But it's not only my all grain beers... My 2 novice mates have been cranking out a few decent kit beers in their setups, but this week after 02 their staples are a big improvement, and they were only pitching dried us05.

I usually bubble at 2 .5 ltrs a minute, run it for 60 secs on my ales.

Just got in a cold crash ATM , an octoberfest lager and Doppelbock , I purged through these for 90 secs at 2.5 ltrs minute, pitched cold at 10 degrees with decent stepped up starters of 2206 bavarian yeast, did the 2 week ferment, raised slowly over 1 week to 17, then over last few days dropped them back to cc.

They look awesome, the early ferment was vigorous , clean looking with hardly any sulphur smells. These should be yummy,can't wait to try them.

Got my kegmenter setup this weekend, so under pressure my lagers should finish up a little quicker at low temp as well.
Thanks to Dancraftbeers imput.

Have fun...
 
I think the comp results gave me a big kick, i have filled just about every part of my shed with beer or wort.
 
All flames out before the O2 valves go on huh? :beerbang: :beerbang:
 
Coodgee said:
Does oxygen addition theoretically help when using the correct amount of dry yeast? I think I read somewhere that dry yeasts already have all the oxygen they need. Or am I mistaken?
My 2 mates just do kits and bits using good dried yeasts, in temp controlled fridges, aerating them with paint stirrers , been reasonable consistent beers over past year.

These latest batches they done, everything the same except I took my oxygen around on mix up day, both have called me this week raving about the improvement.

So it's going to work anyway you ferment.

Get a small setup, you will like it
 
Is there a difference or benefit between using the airpump kits and the bottled o2?
 
Stouter said:
Is there a difference or benefit between using the airpump kits and the bottled o2?
Air can only get you something like 8ppm of DO and it takes 20 mins. O2 can get you the required 12ppm in 1-2 mins. Or something like that.
 
Thanks mstrelan.
Just that being the tight arse I am I saw prices at about $30 for the pump kits.
As usual there's a reason for the price, it's time and quality. These three things seem like an interchangeable pyramid.

I know with kegging and CO2 it's 'recommended' that you use the filtered/food grade CO2 instead of the cheaper industrial grade, is there safer options like this for Oxy rather than using my plumbing mate's oxy kit?
 
Coldspace,

Are you willing to share your 150 lashes recipe? I have tried to make this beer but have been unable to replicate the hop taste.
I also use O2. I have a 930ml bottle, regulator and airstone which I sourced from somebody on this forum. Will see if I can dig
up the details. I give each brew a 90 sec burst and have been using it now for nearly 18 months and expect the bottle to last me a long while yet.
 
TidalPete said:
Link please?
I'm sure there's numerous links stating the filtering process and the possibilities of differing levels of the harmless unfiltered shite in the industrial grade.
Hence my, "recommended" inclusion.
I'm not advising one way or the other as I've never used it, but it makes sense to me that they'd have a different type for use with food/beer, etc. Prob not much difference in drinking bad water, or breathing bad air, eating food out of the wrong type of container....

No links, but Benzene and headaches rings a bell though.
 

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