First Ag

[bennyc]

Hello all,

I successfully (mostly) completed my first AG brew yesterday, an American Pale Ale. Just some queries to help things along next time though...

1. I started with 27 litres pre-boil and ended up with 17 litres. Using a four ring burner, it took quite some time to reach boil, so I think next time I'll start the heating process from the beginning of sparging and then stick the lid on until boiling occurs - are there any problems with this? I'll also start with a few extra litres in the boil. Hopefully this will allow a 23 litre final.

2. The OG was 1.062. Given that there was a small final volume and I was aiming for more, is there any problem with adding more boiled water at the end to bring it up to volume? If so, does anyone know what dilution rate to use to bring it down to around 1.050, or have I got the bull by the tail? I'm going to leave this current brew fermenting as is, but for future reference...

3. I found it difficul to check on the mash temp during the mashing stage and then the mash-out stage. Different parts of the kettle read significantly differently. Is it therefore okay to stir the mash up to get a consistent temperature throughout the kettle, or will this open up oxidation risks too much?

4. I have a few screw-top wine bottles to make up the rest of the bottles when I get to bottling. Has anyone used these with any success or should I just try to get hold of more beer bottles?

5. How much temperature is lost between the transfer from the sparge water bucket to the lauter tun? I had my sparge water at 80 degrees in the bucket but I'm wondering at what temperature it actually enters the lauter tun. My temperature readings in the lauter tun were inconsistent as well...

6. The wort running into the boiler was a lot clearer and lighter in colour by the end of sparging as compared to the beginning. It was also a lot weaker to taste. Is this anything to worry about it?

7. This was the first time I'd used by four ring burner. At the end of the process the holes and pot stand have turned white where the flames reached. I assume that this is the paint that has been burnt, or is this anything to worry about?

Lots of questions I know, but you'll be glad to know the final product tasted great and I'm looking forward to a few weeks time when I get to taste the final product!

Any thoughts appreciated!

Thanks

Ben

 

[Stuster]

1. One problem can be boil overs. A 4 ring should do a single batch with ease. Do you have a HP regulator? Yep, just start with more litres. Should give you better efficiency too as you will be sparging with more water and so extracting more sugars from the grain.

2. Adding water is fine. Use brewing software to help you with calculations like this. Promash and Beersmith are probably the most popular and both have free trials you can download.

3. Definitely stir. Stir at mash in. Stir at mash out (if you do one). Stir when batch sparging. Stirring is good. Oxidation at this stage (Hot Side Aeration, HSA) is not a myth IMO but you'll need to do more than give it a stir.

4. Probably best not to use wine bottles as they are not designed for pressure.

5. Depends on your system. You should nail that after a few batches. Keep thorough records.

6. Normal.

7. Normal.

Congratulations on getting through it. It'll only get easier to do, and the beer will only get better. :super: :chug:

 

[reVoxAHB]

4. I have a few screw-top wine bottles to make up the rest of the bottles when I get to bottling. Has anyone used these with any success or should I just try to get hold of more beer bottles?

I've never tried the wine bottle thing, might work but I'd say just get more beer bottles. Pop into your local and ask the bar matron for a slab or two of their discards. If you're able to pick and choose, go with pop tops as opposed to screw-offs. Soak bottles over night in a solution of bleach/water and you'll find labels just fall off the next day. Thoroughly clean with warm soapy water, examine for gunk/defects and re-sanitise at bottling.

6. The wort running into the boiler was a lot clearer and lighter in colour by the end of sparging as compared to the beginning. It was also a lot weaker to taste. Is this anything to worry about it?

This is basically what you want- so it's all good. Sparging is the process of removing spent grains and/or hops from the wort by "rinsing" the grains with your sparge out water. By the end of your sparge, most of the fermentable sugars (wort) would've been "rinsed" from the grains and therefore run-off much clearer/less strong.

I'll let the more seasoned brewers take a stab at your other questions but otherwise, welcome to AG :super:

 

[SJW]

It sounds like a copy of Beersmith would help with volumes and temps.

 

[bennyc]

Thanks Stuster and reVox, and SJW, I think you're probably right!

I'm on a mac at home - anyone know if Homebrew Formulator is any good?

Or should I fork out for BeerAlchemy?

 

[Stuster]

How about Beer Tools Pro. Some people like, some don't. It's mac compatible. Linky. No trial though. :angry:

 

[therook]

How about Beer Tools Pro. Some people like, some don't. It's mac compatible. Linky. No trial though. :angry:

Stu,

They are going to have a trial period when the next version is released.

rook

 

[tangent]

I'm on a mac at home - anyone know if Homebrew Formulator is any good?

Or should I fork out for BeerAlchemy?

I love Beer Alchemy and the exchange rate is good at the moment.
Make sure you're on a new OS.
Works with an ipod (recipe backup) and a .mac account really well too, + the bloke who made the software is a top sort and a helpful AG brewer.
Was well worth the investment.

edit - "April 12, 2007
Also mentioned:
- BeerAlchemy - Brewing software for the Mac. Use "basicbrewing" as a coupon code for a 25% discount through June."
http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio

 

[Fents]

How about Beer Tools Pro. Some people like, some don't. It's mac compatible. Linky. No trial though. :angry:

Beertools pro is shithouse IMO. wish i just had of got beersmith now.

 

[barrycycles]

wish i just had of got beersmith now.

Why?

 

[Whistlingjack]

1. I started with 27 litres pre-boil and ended up with 17 litres. Using a four ring burner, it took quite some time to reach boil, so I think next time I'll start the heating process from the beginning of sparging and then stick the lid on until boiling occurs - are there any problems with this? I'll also start with a few extra litres in the boil. Hopefully this will allow a 23 litre final.

The main reasons for boiling are to evaporate volatile substances, isomerize your hops and coagulate most of the proteins. But you don't want to get rid of all proteins and the thermal stress of overboiling will do this.

What was your boiling time?

Try to get the evaporation rate to about 10 to 15% over 60 to 90 minutes.

For example, I use a 90 minute boil starting at say, 1.050 with 27 litres, evaporate about 3 litres leaving 24 litres at about 1.044. Take out about 1 litre of trub and there is my pitching wort.

Also, starting the boil with small amounts of high gravity first runnings may scorch the wort and caramelise it.

Happy brewing

WJ

 

[Fents]

Why?

Its a new product so there are still bugs.

Ingredients are missing (yes i know you can add stuff in)

There support is horrible - e-mails, forums and still no reply.

Beersmith has a better interface IMO.

 

[Belgrave Brewer]

I love Beer Alchemy and the exchange rate is good at the moment.
Make sure you're on a new OS.
Works with an ipod (recipe backup) and a .mac account really well too, + the bloke who made the software is a top sort and a helpful AG brewer.
Was well worth the investment.

edit - "April 12, 2007
Also mentioned:
- BeerAlchemy - Brewing software for the Mac. Use "basicbrewing" as a coupon code for a 25% discount through June."
http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio

Yep, go with Beer Alchemy. I use it as I'm on a MAC as well and it works a treat. You'll need OS X 10.4 to run it. Work good and has a 30 day trial before you need to purchase it. IM me if you have questions.

BB

 

[Hogan]

Try to get the evaporation rate to about 10 to 15% over 60 to 90 minutes.

For example, I use a 90 minute boil starting at say, 1.050 with 27 litres, evaporate about 3 litres leaving 24 litres at about 1.044. Take out about 1 litre of trub and there is my pitching wort.



WJ

WJ how can you start out a boil with a gravity of 1.050 and end up with 1.044. It should be increasing not diminishing?

Cheers, Hoges.

edit: spell

 

[bennyc]

What was your boiling time?

WJ, boiling time was 90 minutes as suggested - just that it took forever to get there. So that's why I'm thinking I'll keep the lid on to help get to the boil and then take the lid off. I'll also gradually increase the heat as more wort enters the kettle.

Might have to check out Beer Alchemy by the sounds of things!

Ben

 

[Stuster]

Do you have a high pressure regulator, benny?

 

[bennyc]

Do you have a high pressure regulator, benny?

I'm not sure, I'll have to check. Pretty sure it's a medium pressure regulator though. I was following the instructions on the Grain and Grape webiste to keep the discs shut for the most efficient burn.

 

[Stuster]

I'm just surprised that your 4 ring burner is slow on a single batch. The only 4 ring I've seen in operation (crozdog's) easily brought over 100L to the boil.

Ah, after looking at the web site, I see that the medium pressure one is the right one. Should boil at least 50L though. It might be worth giving them a ring for some advice. With that burner it shouldn't take that long to get to boiling.

 

[Whistlingjack]

WJ how can you start out a boil with a gravity of 1.050 and end up with 1.044. It should be increasing not diminishing?

Cheers, Hoges.

edit: spell

Oops...thanks for picking that up. Its the other way around...

WJ