Fermentation Fridge Question

[vr4_psych]

Because I don't have room for a separate fermentation fridge, I had the thought of putting my fermenter inside a can cooler in the fridge, with a head pad/belt running of a stc-1000 to warm the temp inside the can cooler while still using the rest of the fridge as a fridge.

Any thoughts or issues with this?

 

[mika]

Sounds like a good way to use a lot of energy. If you've got a fridge with enough space for a fermentor what else is it doing ?
If the rest of the fridge is intended to be used at regular fridge temps (4ish degs) I think the heatbelt will struggle as well. They're only 20 - 30W usually.

 

[SpillsMostOfIt]

Search the forum for posts by Thirsty Boy containing the word 'aquarium'.

 

[seemax]

Normal fridge ... insulated fermentor.... immersion heater (aquarium style) ideally with temp range starting from 18C.

Pretty easy to drill hole in lid, run the cable through, etc. Take off as much of the plastic trimming on the heater to reduce infection risk.

Just looked on ebay and found this stainless steel version with separate temp dial all for $21 delivered - bargain!!

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/STAINLESS-STEEL-AQU...5#ht_500wt_1156

 

[vr4_psych]

Normal fridge ... insulated fermentor.... immersion heater (aquarium style) ideally with temp range starting from 18C.

Pretty easy to drill hole in lid, run the cable through, etc. Take off as much of the plastic trimming on the heater to reduce infection risk.

Just looked on ebay and found this stainless steel version with separate temp dial all for $21 delivered - bargain!!

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/STAINLESS-STEEL-AQU...5#ht_500wt_1156

...and adjustable down to 15C! I've put an order through so hopefully it will work ok...

Thanks for your help, everyone!
Leigh

 

[Yob]

found a topic the other day but cant seem to find it now so will post it here.

Ive finally got round to fermenting two at a time per fridge, so I go to CC them last week and the fridge will not go below 5'c (hooked up to STC1000) so I think that the fridges sensor is somehow over riding the STC <_<

if it's gotta be it's gotta be but surely I can disable the fridges thermostat? So I had a poke about this morning and found this



can I simply remove the little silver thingy (assumed thermostat) from the unit here?

cut it off?

shoot it?

unplug the whole unit and remove the lot and make safe the wires?

Cheers all

Yob

 

[kelbygreen]

does the fridge work if you unplug that little plug with the red and brown wires?? I know nothing about fridges but its worth a go and if it doesnt work simply plug it back in.

I am lucky both of mine get down to 1 deg when set on the lowest setting. Also are you sure its on the coldest setting not the hottest?? Some fridges I seen it has just got numbers and doesnt say what way is cold and hot. I would thought the lowest woul be the coolest but the one I had infact was the hottest 7 was the coldest :S

 

[alfadog]

I had the same issue with my fridge trying to chill two batches at once, at first I thought it was the thermostat, but it can get down to near zero anyways. So now I have ordered new seals for the door (it is an old fridge) or may just leave it a bit longer as there is twice as much volume to chill.

 

[alfadog]

does the fridge work if you unplug that little plug with the red and brown wires?? I know nothing about fridges but its worth a go and if it doesnt work simply plug it back in.

I am lucky both of mine get down to 1 deg when set on the lowest setting. Also are you sure its on the coldest setting not the hottest?? Some fridges I seen it has just got numbers and doesnt say what way is cold and hot. I would thought the lowest woul be the coolest but the one I had infact was the hottest 7 was the coldest :S

If it is the thermostat pictured then you would have to bypass it, so the two active wires going in and out would have to be joined and same for the neutral.

 

[stux]

Some thermostats use a hollow tube and bulb to detect pressure differences at temperature. Cutting such a tube would not be a good idea I think

 

[Innes]

If it is the thermostat pictured then you would have to bypass it, so the two active wires going in and out would have to be joined and same for the neutral.

Just join the two wires connected to the thermostat (brown and black). Don't touch any other wire!

 

[zxhoon]

Just join the two wires connected to the thermostat (brown and black). Don't touch any other wire!

I think that would be a really bad idea, looks to me like the supply comes in the white insulated lead, with brown active, black neutral and yellow/green earth, then it looks like the the wires from the.thermostat to the compressor are brown and red, but that's only how it looks to me in a photo that doesn't clearly show all the connections.

If you don't know what you are doing get someone who does, rather than risk electrocution or a fire.

 

[zxhoon]

I may have misread what you mean, but if the OP isn't sure, don't risk it

 

[Innes]

I think that would be a really bad idea, looks to me like the supply comes in the white insulated lead, with brown active, black neutral and yellow/green earth, then it looks like the the wires from the.thermostat to the compressor are brown and red, but that's only how it looks to me in a photo that doesn't clearly show all the connections.

If you don't know what you are doing get someone who does, rather than risk electrocution or a fire.

There should be 4 wires coming out of the insulated white cable:

Brown - active in
Black - switched active return
Blue - neutral
Yellow/Green - earth

The brown is active in and connects to one side of your thermostat. It also loops off the thermostat terminal and goes to the white connector. This is the supply to your door switch. The active return from the door switch is the red wire which goes to the active terminal of your light.

The black wire is connected to the output terminal of your thermostat and returns to the compressor to switch it on and off.

The blue neutral wire will connect the the neutral terminal of your light. The yellow/green earth wire should be connected to metal, usually via one of the screws.

If this matches the layout of the wiring of your fridge (it should), then with the fridge unplugged, you can join the two wires connected to the thermostat together which will bypass the thermostat. Without another form of thermostat, this would cause the fridge to run continuously. With the STC1000 connected, it will now control the fridge without the standard thermostat causing any problems.

If the wiring is NOT how I have described it, then don't touch it. Maybe post some clearer photo's showing all the terminal connections.

 

[zxhoon]

Cheers for clarifying

 

[Yob]

There should be 4 wires coming out of the insulated white cable:

Brown - active in
Black - switched active return
Blue - neutral
Yellow/Green - earth

The brown is active in and connects to one side of your thermostat. It also loops off the thermostat terminal and goes to the white connector. This is the supply to your door switch. The active return from the door switch is the red wire which goes to the active terminal of your light.

The black wire is connected to the output terminal of your thermostat and returns to the compressor to switch it on and off.

The blue neutral wire will connect the the neutral terminal of your light. The yellow/green earth wire should be connected to metal, usually via one of the screws.

If this matches the layout of the wiring of your fridge (it should), then with the fridge unplugged, you can join the two wires connected to the thermostat together which will bypass the thermostat. Without another form of thermostat, this would cause the fridge to run continuously. With the STC1000 connected, it will now control the fridge without the standard thermostat causing any problems.

If the wiring is NOT how I have described it, then don't touch it. Maybe post some clearer photo's showing all the terminal connections.

Nice post mate.. here's a clearer photo and does look to be as described.



The fridge was on for a week so isnt the thermal mass of the 2 brews, it just will not get below 5'c so bypassing the thermostat is the go.

Nice on fellas.

 

[DU99]

i read someone you need to set the fridge thermostat on it's min setting..if it's only two wires on the thermostat just join them up.bluepoint connector works wonder

 

[alfadog]

.The fridge was on for a week so isnt the thermal mass of the 2 brews, it just will not get below 5'c so bypassing the thermostat is the go.

Crap, looks like I have to do the same, did not really want to rewire the fridge, but shall in the name of good beer.

I was relying on the seals to help a bit, not to worry they are way past due for replacement

 

[Yob]

:icon_cheers:

 

[kario]

i read someone you need to set the fridge thermostat on it's min setting..if it's only two wires on the thermostat just join them up.bluepoint connector works wonder

From the looks of it, I agree....BUT....FFS!...no one should be giving 240V electrical wiring advise based on a photo!....That's just crazy!...The risk involved just isn't worth it.

If anyone close by reckons they know what they're doing, offer to go over and do it. Otherwise yob, get a fridge mechanic to come over and do it.....negotiate a decent deal with someone local over the phone....I'd try to aim for $40-$50...if they're close by, it's easy money, it'll take them all of 15 mins in and out....and that's certainly safer in many regards!