Coopers Yeast Bad Batch?

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Bribie G

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A few weeks ago I did 2 brews on the same day, both went into brand new fermenters that I sterilised just to be on the safe side.
Virtually identical recipes:

Morgans Queensland Bitter Kit 500 LDME 750 DEX
Coopers Bavarian Lager Kit 500 LDME 750 DEX

I accidentally pitched the Morgans yeast into the Coopers and vice versa. :rolleyes:

They attenuated at the same time and were bottled on the same day.


I'm sampling them reasonably young. The Bavarian Lager (Morgans Yeast) is turning out really nice, tight packed yeast in the PET bottle, smooth clean taste.
The Queensland Bitter (Coopers Yeast) on the other hand has taken ages to clear, until a week ago there were swirls and 'curtains' of yeast still swishing around in the bottom third of the bottle and clinging to the sides. I rotated them all every day and it seems to have finally shaken down into the 'roots' of the PETS.

However on sampling, the Queensland Bitter (Coopers Yeast) has developed some 'skunky' flavours a bit like cabbage / eggs. I'm going to quarantine it for about a month and see what it's like then. The question is: as the only substantial diff. between the brews was the yeast I'm wondering if it's possible to get a bad yeast Batch from Coopers?

Would I be better off paying extra and getting some Saflager sachets, or go to 'slants' that I have read about on the forum? In the meantime I've decided to culture some Morgans yeasts from the good brews I have had, and use them. It's a pity because I like Coopers brews as a base, as they are cheap and fairly bland to use as the base point for a kit and bits brew, particularly the standard "Lager".

**********
Edit: On Friday I bottled a Coopers Lager 500 LDME 750 DEX cluster teabag, kit yeast, and as a thought I went out and just had a look at it. Clearing out like a little gem. That's why I'm wondering about the 'consistency' thing.
 
the bavarian lager i believe comes with a true-er lager yeast and will develop the sulphury smells. maybe some cold conditioning next time...
 
Aha... I didn't realise that Coopers were a bit sophisticated with their yeasts, I had assumed they had a top fermenter and a bottom fermenter fullstop. The skunky flavours would certainly be due to a fairly warm pitch and initial ferm. as it's been quite warm for July over here with only a cold snap last week for a few days. I really like the Bavarian which has been discontinued but the HB shop has a few cartons left.
Next time I'll do it in my 25 L fermenter and fridge it in the garage fridge :) . Cheers.
 
Would I be better off paying extra and getting some Saflager sachets, or go to 'slants' that I have read about on the forum?

Yes most quality dry yeasts like the the Fermentis and Danstar products are superior to those yeasts supplied in mosts kits. They are usually in better condition when you get them too -- but that can vary. Yeasts should ideally be sold out of the fridge at your LBHS and within their various best before dates.

The important thing is to match your beer style with the most appropriate yeast and then ferment at the optimum temperature. There are some beer styles that get almost all of their flavour from the yeast

You might want to explore the wonderful world of liquid yeasts before getting into yeast farming on slants.

cheers

Grant
 
the bavarian lager i believe comes with a true-er lager yeast and will develop the sulphury smells. maybe some cold conditioning next time...


what he said.

iirc the bavarian lager has a true lager yeast, as does the new euro lager, and the pilsner iirc.

as to if its a good yeast, thats debatable.

same thing for the normal coopers yeast, and the morgans as well.

the coopers is just 514, not sure about the morgans.

not a good yeast by any means, but it is very temperature tolerant, manly towards the higher end of the scale.
 
not a good yeast by any means, but it is very temperature tolerant, manly towards the higher end of the scale.

Yup. I use the 'original' series Coopers kits plus bits for the quick and drinkables but realise now that the 'speciality' range like Euro and Bavarian needs somewhat different treatment. Lager means to store at a low temperature, not just a light coloured beer. I get the point. Next time I'll fridge it, correctly pitch the Coopers Lager yeast :p , and in due course cube the brew, turn down the temp in the fridge and see how I get on (within the limitations, of course, that it's a kit)

Having said all that the Bavarian still makes a nice drop when used with a yeast no doubt designed for a quick K&K so I'm interested to see how it will turn out with a more 'sympathetic' treatment :lol:


Edit: while we're talking about yeasts is there a sticky or a thread anywhere with a table of what yeast names / numbers are available for what styles and temperature range? I see lots of references to Saflager number this and Saflager number that but still strikes me as a black art :rolleyes:
 
what he said.

iirc the bavarian lager has a true lager yeast, as does the new euro lager, and the pilsner iirc.

as to if its a good yeast, thats debatable.

same thing for the normal coopers yeast, and the morgans as well.

the coopers is just 514, not sure about the morgans.

not a good yeast by any means, but it is very temperature tolerant, manly towards the higher end of the scale.


I thought that 514 was an ale yeast ? Isn't this one in question a lager yeast ?
 
Edit: while we're talking about yeasts is there a sticky or a thread anywhere with a table of what yeast names / numbers are available for what styles and temperature range? I see lots of references to Saflager number this and Saflager number that but still strikes me as a black art

Check out the sponsors web sites for some guidance. Also google the maufacturers web sites like Fermentis and Danstar for dry yeasts, whitelabs and wyeast for liquids. There are probably others. Each site has good specs.
 
while we're talking about yeasts is there a sticky or a thread anywhere with a table of what yeast names / numbers are available for what styles and temperature range? I see lots of references to Saflager number this and Saflager number that but still strikes me as a black art :rolleyes:


Here's a chart I think I got off here somewhere.

View attachment yeast_specs.doc
 

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