Coopers Carbonation Drops = Low Carbonation Level?

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BjornJ

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You guys seem to be getting more carbonation from these drops than I do.
I didn't want to hijack this thread since my question is a little different http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...mp;#entry735386

so started a new one:





I usually use carbonation drops, either coopers from BigW or Brewcraft from the homebrew shop, depending on if I remember to buy them in time or run out and get them when I need them.

I always crash-chill for at least a week, some times two before bottling to help yeast and "stuff" settle out.
The beer always carb up, the bottles are hard to touch.
I think they're ok and have always thought they were carbed "as usual" but my wife keeps telling me they're under carbed.
Then I sent two beers to the Castle hill beer comp and both beers x 2 judges = 4 brew sheets saying my beers were under carbed..
So I started thinking maybe it's just me who got used to lower carbonation?

I bottled the last lager I made (with S-189 in another thread) with bulk priming to 3 volumes of CO2, higher than I thought was necessary, just to check.
This one I've now given to several people to try as I am interested in feedback on S-189 at this high temp, and when asked they all say the carbonation is ok.

Using carbonation drops I use 2 drops per longneck and 1 per stubbie as it says on the bag, and it seems maybe I get lower than suggested carbonation from this?

I'm not sure how to look at this..
As long as my bottles carb up, surely there is yeast in there. If there is yeast in there, it will eat all available sugar and carb to the expected level, it's only a matter of time.

then why do I seem to get lower carbonation than calculated?

Using the carbonation calculator for the bulk priming I enter the beer as having temp 20 degrees just to be sure I don't assume C02 saturation in the beer.
When using carbonation drops there is no "calculation" I just use one per stubby, 2 per longneck and the beer probably have been at 18 at highest during fermentation, bottled at 1-3 degrees.

What do others get, do you get good carbonation using the drops?

thanks
Bjorn
 
I found my carb levels lacking initially with the carb drops but changed my bottle washing from dishwashing detergent to a napisan soak and for some reason my carb levels improved can't explain why though
Now 1 drop is enough for a 500ml bottle I experimented with 2 different brews in 2 different style bottles & was very happy
Good luck sorting it out
 
what temp are you getting to before chilling? if its getting warm before the chill you might be losing a fair bit of carbonation, but if the bulk priming worked for you i guess thats what id do from now on if it was me.there are a few calculators that can help with working out what you need so maybe give that a shot or if all else fails kegging is pretty much fool proof.
 
Hi Bjorn,

I have noted the same problem since I started brewing a couple of years ago, both in kits and now AG. I went straight to only using white sugar and now bulk priming. I had noted a definite lower carbing with side by side tallie tests.

Cheers,

Markvm
 
csr_cubes.jpeg

This is all I ever use in a PET - glass is a different story however.
 
I haven't used carb drops for well over 2 years I reckon, but when I did my carbonation was always high, and inconsistent
 
The beer always carb up, the bottles are hard to touch.

Are you bottling in glass or pet? I've found with pet that they need a little extra, because the plastic has a little more 'give' in it. Ie a 1.25 coke bottle will get 4 carb drops, when it is recommended to have 3.33.

When bottling in glass i get the right amount of carbonation.
 
Are you bottling in glass or pet? I've found with pet that they need a little extra, because the plastic has a little more 'give' in it. Ie a 1.25 coke bottle will get 4 carb drops, when it is recommended to have 3.33.

When bottling in glass i get the right amount of carbonation.


Hi mate,
it's mostly the PET bottles that go harder during carbonation.
My glass bottles stay hard even when empty :D

Just joking!


thanks for the feedback guys.
I'll do bulk priming for a couple of more brews to see if it makes a big difference, staying with 3 volumes of CO2.

thanks
Bjorn
 
I Keg and my left overs go in Grolsch or 500ml swing tops. I actually only use 1 drop per 473ml or 500ml and it works out fine, from the bottle or poured into a glass I get good carbonation and a nice thick, creamy head that clings all the way down.
I must say though, all at least 20 weeks old before I open them!
 
Ive been using hte carb drops 2 per 640ml, however in my last brew a Pale Ale,

The beers have been flat, the bottles are at about 24c and sit in the fridge for a week, then when I open them, no carb and little head that disolved quick?

Any ideas
 
Wait until you know they are carbed before sitting in the fridge.

How long at 24 degrees?
 
carbonation drops is that $12 a kilo for dextrose when you can buy 25 kilo bag for $39
 
soo much easier than bulk priming though..

Rather than having to sanitise another fermenter or cube and rack beer to this from secondary, just pop a carbonation drop in each bottle or two for a longneck and bottle away.
No sugar measurements in each bottle, no boiling of dextrose and ending up with two fermenters to clean after bottling.

I am going back into bulk priming to get higher carbonation, but like the ease of drops.

Bjorn
 
I've been brewing for nearly 3 years now and have used nothing but those CSR sugar cubes I mentioned above for priming PET bottles - including comps. They fit perfectly through the top of any PET bottle and one of them will do a 750ml brown PET very nicely. Perhaps a little gassy for some styles such as UK bitters but I just let them steam off in a jug or even better, bottle my keg leftover UK's in 1.25L PET and just add one cube. Two for lagers.
 
They were at 20-24c for about 2 1/2 weeks

Generally should be long enough but all brews are different, even in the same conditions. My main point is wait till they are carbed before putting in the fridge.

I had a recent coopers clone take ages to get to a good level (while other beers in the same conditions would carb within a few days - warm weather). Eventually got there but was a surprise since it was one of the quickest brews I've made to get to FG. Different yeasts, different beers etc behave in different ways.
 
I've been brewing for nearly 3 years now and have used nothing but those CSR sugar cubes I mentioned above for priming PET bottles - including comps. They fit perfectly through the top of any PET bottle and one of them will do a 750ml brown PET very nicely. Perhaps a little gassy for some styles such as UK bitters but I just let them steam off in a jug or even better, bottle my keg leftover UK's in 1.25L PET and just add one cube. Two for lagers.


Hi
I'll try a couple of bottles using sugar cubes next time then, to compare.
I like the carbonation drops for ease of use, and if sugar cubes gives higher carbonation and has the same ease of use that would be great.

thanks for the idea,

Bjorn
 
Yes God has designed sugar cubes to exactly fit through a PET opening without a mm to spare. If they ever change the shape we're fckd :p
 

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