Building The Bee Hives In Pictures

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
My parent used to be Pro bee keepers....good the days we used to spend extraction honey and doing hives... <_<

To start your frames, you need to get the wax honeycome base sheets, then they will build the cells on top...

They will love you if you provide the base, rather than getting then to build their own.

And a smoker with saw dust soaked in metho...
 
Thinking I might go a Warre style hive... but could be moving interstate in the next month or two so everything is on hold right at the moment. :/ Hopefully can still establish a colony late October if swarming is still on, will have to see. Won't stop me reading up all I can though, so thanks Pete. You've been an inspiration.

Did I get a chance to talk to you on another forum? I get my forums mixed up at times with discussions on Warre hives :)

I still want to build at least one to try out but by law the frames or top bars need to be removable for inspectors that come to inspect.

That said, we don't have inspector anymore in ACT and the club relies on the NSW inspector that is nearby. So you could get away with one Warre for testing. But there is some beauty in that hive design where you open it only one time per year and let the moisture, scent levels, and temperatures remain exactly as the bees want it inside. It is said to be the most naturally resistant to pests hive design out there. Looks like Langs from far away except its a Vertical Top Bar hive where bees build from the top down. So brood is at the top where "Hot Air Rises" so keep warmer in winter than in Langstroth hives. And they build down so honey only combs are down at the bottom to harvest during the once a year opening. Because the bees propolise the hive boxes together you never really get near the brood comb at all to vent the queens pheromones or moisture or temperature so all stability of environment for the bees is maintained during the harvest.


Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
My parent used to be Pro bee keepers....good the days we used to spend extraction honey and doing hives... <_<

To start your frames, you need to get the wax honeycome base sheets, then they will build the cells on top...

They will love you if you provide the base, rather than getting then to build their own.

And a smoker with saw dust soaked in metho...

hehe :) wax foundation is preset at specific size. Actually larger than bees naturally build for themselves. One of the famous arguments is that the larger cells force the bees not to build what they need when they need it. Each cell size is for different purpose (brood, drone, queen, honey, pollen, etc.) Some say mites are less of a problem when bees are left to build exact size (smaller than Langstroth wax foundation size cells) for growing new brood into workers.

But its like brewing arguments over minute things :)

mmm metho... Best burning item is dried cow shit -- burns long burns well, but I don't have many cows nearby to grab some :p


Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
Actually. we found pine cones and pine needles the best...lasted ages in the smoker..

Yes we had vertical hives , stacked to 3 high. We even got our own hot-brand made up...with our license


God...sitting in the shed , building, branding and painting hives.... :(


Box Honey still is the best...But Dark Iron Bark takes some beating... :super:

Old man became an expert on local flora...to the point he would stop at every flowering tree to check its nuts out...
 
All this talk on bees has got me all sad again. Kept them for a year and then developed a severe allergic reaction (maybe to do with the 5 stings on my ankle).

Anyone who is thinking of giving it a go, DO IT! It is a great hobby with a fantastic payoff. The honey is delicious! Best thing IMO would be to join a local club and learn as much as you can. The club I was in had monthly working bees and lectures and they were more than happy to help you out anytime with gear, or bees...
 
Spoke to two bee guys in Bundy today. One of them was a bit vague and said if I came in he could 'look after me'. I think that meant he could give or sell me a swarm of bees, either that or I may end up with a kee of smack. Other guy spent some time and said he picks up swarms for about $60 or $70. When I flat out asked him what he could onsell one to me he also got a bit vague but perked up a bit when I mentioned the Kenyan top bar hive I was about to build. Looks like he is going to look it up on the ole internet thingy and get back to me. At least he is open to ideas and a bit of research.
 
Good luck Pete - that design looks interesting !

We have kept bees for 2 seasons in our back yard in Melbourne. My wife's grandfather is a beekeeper.

We have a standard 8 frame hive which is very productive - last summer we harvested over 30Kg of lovely tastinng honey. Towards the end of the season we had the brood box plus 3 full supers on top!

This year we plan to split the hive into two, to increase production. The great benefit of having a hive in your back yard in the suburbs are:
i) you can keep a close eye on the bees (and provide extra shade in excessively hot days if required)
ii) there are always different varieties of flowering plants throughout the whole season which means you dont have to move the hive to chase nectar flows like pro beekeepers do. Somedays the bees come home with white pollen, the enxt day it may be orange.
iii) your neghbours will love you when you give them honey made from thier flowers

Good luck.

Cheers
Simon
 
Had To Stop Building Long Hive and Emergency Build a Swarm Capture Hive for Saturday

I ordered my BeesWax, BeeSuit, Gloves, Smoker on Monday and they still have not arrived <_<

I was really counting on it being here today so I could melt wax into the boiled linseed oil and coat the finished Swarm Capture Hive. I had to go with a non natural coating as I need it dry by the time Saturday rolls around. The second Swarm Capture Hive will get the full wax+linseed oil treatment as well as the three Long Hives. Since the bees will only be inside the swarm capture hive for a day or two I am not worried. I can sand it down and finish with wax+linseed oil after the emergency swarm season rush is over.

I also changed the design.

I went to 12 top bars because it looked better to me? More Square I guess. I know 5 top bars can be considered a Nuc hive for queen rearing and getting new queens producing and going before transferring to big hives. So 12 bars it is. I can use a divider board and drill a hole at an end on alternating sides like the plans show for the large hive to do a mini hive split into two Nucs for rearing and training 2 queens in one hive.
Finished_Capture01.jpg

Hole size of hives changed from plans. Plans from UK ask for Champagne corks or corks for 1 Gallon Bottles. The LHBS does not carry Champagne corks. And the only corks available in tapered stopped at 1" diameter. The hole in the plans for the hives is 1" diameter :(
Finished_Capture02.jpg

New Hole size = 1 1/8" because I am using the rubber bungs for my 5L demijohns. They have a 1" taper on the bottom and a larger taper on the top. Perfect fit for a 1 1/8" hive hole.
Finished_Capture03.jpg

Now I just need that beeswax to prewax the top bars with string and wax.

Now I need to build a nice lid cover that will keep the top bars in place while the hive is in the back of the swarm collectors car and I am completely finished with this capture hive / 2 Nuc Queen Rearing Hive.


Now On To The Long Hives

Time to drill some holes in the middle, the three main holes that will be bunged with rubber stoppers to manage how much open space is available depending on size of the colony of bees and able to close them down as honey and bee numbers drop off and other bees start deciding to rob honey from my hives. This way with less openings the remaining guard bees have a chance of fighting the intruders off!
Long_Drilling_Centre_Holes.jpg

Now for the side hole. This is important when splitting long hives into multiple hives. The long hive can have up to 2 divider bars so I can get 3 hives in one!
Long_Drilling_Side01.jpg

Missing is the shot of the side hole on the other end, but *important* on the exact opposite side of the hive than the holes I drilled on this front side piece. That way I can close up the middle hives and split the long hive in two. Then open both ends. I can trick bees by turning the hive around physically and the hole they are used to going into will be the other hive and they won't know they are flying home to the other side. This lets me do splits and fake swarming to trick the bees!


I went to Bunnings and found wire mesh at just tiny bit larger than optimum size (3mm squares is optimum) next to the nylon gutter mesh with larger squares. Same price and 2 more metres of material!
Long_Wiring01.jpg

Staple gun, straight tin snips and I was rocking and rolling getting the bottoms all wired up in preparation for mounting the bottom boards on hinges and clasps.
Long_Wiring_Finished.jpg

All done and just a minor trim next time to get it looking very neat.
Long_Wiring_Finished02.jpg


I messed up on the hinges. I got larger than will fit the bottom board and side of the hive :( I bought with the intention for nice beefy hinges. Oh well. My "calculated" 1A V-belt for my grain mill was also done wrong by the transmission shop and was too small so I will have another day tomorrow driving back to all the shops getting all my gear sorted out.

Packed up the shed and called it a night and time to post some photos.
A nice parting shot
Group_Shot_Done_For_Nigth.jpg



Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
FROM ANOTHER FORUM POST TODAY:
Another Forum said:
HI every one. I am here because I have just got back into bee keeping. 4 years ago I became allergic to honey bee stings. I ended up in emergency room . I was told not to do bees again but I wanted to do it so bad I went to see an Allergist doctor. I was tested and then recieved shots to build my system up. Well I am cured. I started late this spring with just 4 langstroth hives. I have been stung alot of times so far and no reaction. I have been stinging myself about 4 times a week to boost myself up. I feel great! So now that I am back into the bees again I can,t believe the price of bees now. I would like to go TOP BAR. I have mites in my hives right now and don,t want to use chemicals any more. I really like the Idea of TOP BARS. So I will be reading all the info anyone has to offer.


look forward to everyones posts
Ron R.

Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
Time out for Warre Hive, The "Vertical" Top Bar Hive

Said to be one of the best hives for bee health.

Difference is you only open it once a year, to harvest, and you stack new boxes under the previous boxes. Brood stays up at the top of the hive where heat is. All the comb below becomes honey stores.


View from above on a box with brood comb:
vonoben.jpg


Box turned on its side so you can see Brood from below. Note the queen cell on the left side. For swarm prevention those COULD be removed, but I strongly suggest to work with natural swarms:
vonunten.jpg


Box turned on its side so you can see Honey comb from below. Note how small the gaps between the combs become:
honeycomb.jpg


Some more bee art&style:
burrcomb_yeah.jpg
broodcomb.jpg
bee_art.jpg


Warre Hive assembled and in the field.
large-hive.jpg




Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
Swarm Capture Hive Finished!

I can not believe that when I order some bees wax on a Monday they don't get around to shipping out my order until Friday!

I won't get my beeswax until Monday so I can not make a proper BeesWax + Linseed oil finish for this first swarm capture hive.
I also can not finish the top bars with waxed string as a starter guide for the bees.

Instead I will drop the hive off at the Bee Club Presidents house tomorrow and bring my soldering iron, some jute string to run down the middle of each top bar, and two clamps to hold the string in place as I drip wax. I will buy a small amount of beeswax from them and show them first hand how the hive top bars are made. In 20 minutes I should have all the top bars ready to go.

I still have to get to the the Two Dollar Shop to find the aromatherapy section and buy a jar of LEMON GRASS OIL. Some of that oil inside the hive will make the bees swarm inside like no tomorrow as it is a bee attractant.

Finished Swarm Hive with its New Lid. Now the bars are covered and they won't come loose while bouncing around in the back of the Swarm Collector's car.
Finished_Capture_Hive.jpg


Long Hives - Hinging and Latching the Floors


I got the wrong size hinges so back to Bunnings to get the 70mm hinges. They seem to fit the 21mm thick plywood just perfectly.

2 Long Hives hinged, and latched and ready for legs, top bars and a roof/cover.
Hinging_Long_Hives.jpg

3rd Long Hive hinged and latched. Close up of my latch system.
Long_hive_Clasps.jpg

Example of the bottom floor in action. Open for Summer and mite control, closed for Winter and keeping drafty wind away from the bees.
Long_Hive_Door_Action.jpg



I'm off to Bunnings to get some bolts, nuts and washers and some wood for legs to put on these Long Hives.

36" Long Legs should get the Hive up to 34" height. 1"x3" wood or metric equivalent.
12 sets of those and 24 sets of bolts, nuts and washers and I am set to get legs on all these hives.


Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
Storm brewing out there tonight. Got Rain, Got Hail and now its Dark, Cloudy and Blowing a Gale.


Finished early working tonight only 6PM :)

Long Hives With Legs
Bunnings had shorts already cut up. 70mm thick by 900mm long. Just the thing! No cutting them up. Just drill and bolt on with 5/16th inch hardware.
Long_Hive_Legs.jpg

Leg Detail of Long Hives
Its a shame I am going to have to dismantle all these hives to get all the hardware off when the BeesWax arrives in the mail so I can do a proper weather proofing seal of BeesWax + Linseed oil before re-assembling everything so that no piece of wood misses out on a protective weather seal.
Long_Hive_Leg_Detail.jpg

Potential Honey Bars
Size is 41mm, a Honey Bar size conversion from US Size was 38-39mm I am hoping the extra 2mm won't need to be sawn off. Will save heaps of time cutting these up and using them right away!
HoneyBars_Price.jpg

Honey Bars Wood Detail
Mmmmmmm I dream of honey!
HoneyBars_Wood.jpg


Off to cook dinner :)


Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
O'Henry ITS NOT OVER YET!!!

FROM ANOTHER FORUM POST TODAY:


Cheers,
Brewer Pete

You have got me excited now. I am about 60% through my epic run of shots. All up it will be around 60 needles, so I am looking forward to seeing the end of it. My allergy specialist told me to give the bees up (I think she is a little paranoid. She also said don't walk on the beach barefoot), but as soon as all my injections are finished I am going to go out, find a bee and sting myself with my epipen nearby, just in case. Then we shall see...
 
Just got back from the President of the Bee club.

Lovely folks! The ACT is so lucky to have them. They saw my top bar hive and I gave them a first hand demonstration of preparing a top bar by waxing string to the bar.

In no time at all I was done with every bar and then smiled as next club meeting it is "How to build your own frames for a Langstroth Hive" -- That will be a lot of work, a lot of time, and a lot of wood used and when done a huge amount of wax compared to the small amount I dribbled on the string.

They kindly gave me two chunks of waste wax for free because it was so small. It still had propolis and some trapped honey. The honey was lovely, amazing how different than the store. You know I sucked it out! :D

After getting back I spent the afternoon cutting the decking in half to make each individual top bar.

Then I waxed the string onto them with a soldering iron.

OMG Trent! The smells of hot beeswax and left over honey being atomised by the hot soldering iron... My Shed was so full of beeswax and sweet honey smells that speaking as a Mead brewer, I had to leave the shed because I was getting excited! :) Dave so has to try this.. I am so going to be making heaps of natural bees wax candles for the house when I'm harvesting. The smell is just amazing! Its like brewing Mead but 100 times more potent and yummy!

Anyway before I get carried away. Back to ground level to tell O'Henry, Trent, and everyone else that you should go down to your outdoors store and ask for the "Mosquito Electric Zapper Thing" a small Piezo-Electric device just like your BBQ Ignition device that you electrocute in a split second any mosquito bite or BEE STING.

People who are VERY allergic to bees and swell up bad have used this device and had ZERO swelling or reaction like they normally did. It works really well! The president of the bee club showed me theirs and it is just like a BBQ starter but fits in your pocket and has a neck string.


Ok photo time.

I finished off almost 2 1/2 stacked rows of top bars. I was not planning on having 3 Long Hives and 2 Swarm Hives so I may need to get some more wood to rip into brood bars.

Rows and Rows of Top Bars already waxed and stringed. I did all this in a few hours. Lost count how many bars but I'd hate to try and make that many Langstroth Frames in as little time :p
Rows_Of_Top_Bars.jpg

Close up of the bars so you can see how you don't need to be neat or take forever being a precision freak. The bees won't care either way.
Top_Bar_Wax_String.jpg

Left over chunk of wax. I only used a chunk this wide and about 2/3rd or less of a top bar length (10" or so long?) Of non-solid wax that had hollow pockets to do all these bars! Imagine how much would need to be melted to make a full foundation for each frame in a traditional hive.
Left_Over_Wax.jpg

Note that these are ALL brood bars.


I will have to go to Home Depot and pick up some of those other 41mm wide hardwood bars to use as Honey Bars. Once I make a whole bunch of those honey bars up I will rip some more decking bars.

I am planning on 2/3rds of each hive in Brood Bars and 1/3rd in Honey Bars. I may get very productive queen so one hive might be all brood bars.

Once the bottom Kenyan hives are full I plan on adding some supers, boxes full of honey bar wide top bars and completely square so large giant bars of pure honey will be made if the season goes great this year for nectar flow!


I am so loving this! Great hobby especially for a brewer and someone who loves their Mead.


Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
Good luck with the apiary pete.
You can bag the old langstroth hive system as much as you like but you wont sell me on your alternative designs.
When it comes to reactions to bee stings I am pretty lucky that I am not allergic because one night while shifting bees we managed to drop a pallet full of bee hives off the front of the forklift from about 1.5 meters height and were they ever pissed at us, I lost count after about 30 stings.
Once you are actually doing some beekeeping you wont be such a tight arse with your wax because every extaction will produce a good supply. Dont get too stung up mate. Greg
 
No worries Greg,

This system produces less than a Lanstroth so there is no way a primary producer will switch to this system as its not designed to save labour or be trucked around or forklifted. This is for the one or two hives in the backyard hobbyist who does not want backpains of lifting langs manually without aid of equipment. Exact opposite ends of the spectum, Low tech and capital investment-Higher Labour versus High-Tech and capital investment-Lower Labour.

For commercial you should look up what the Slavs are doing. Using lang frames in a cartridge system in massive elevated bee houses. Processing is done in the house with large automatic brush/vac systems that strip a frame of bees in seconds and into the extractor with the frame. A trailer of 55 gallon drums are backed up underneath the bee house and honey is loaded and trucked out.

With the top bar system its not being tight arse. This is done to a new hive. After you have bees draw comb you never will wax or string a single bar again. So you will end up with heaps of wax for sale and none going back into comb. Harvest is always comb honey so bars with a cut comb still have a few cm of comb left on them. These harvested bars go back into the hive. Bees always draw new comb so no worries of fat soluble chemical buildup in the wax of reused comb in this system.

Harvest is as low tech as you can get. Cut comb into bucket. Smashed and left in muslin in jar to drip free of the wax. Wax goes into the solar wax melter to form wax bars. You can build a home made press if you want to kick it up a notch.

This compares to a langstroth setup with an electic wax capper and multi-frame extractor machine. For backyard hobby beekeepers these are quite costly to pay for out of pocket as they are not in it for a business venture with money on yhe line and wanting to cut the labour compenent as much as possible.

I have a couple people at work building hives now as well. One wants heaps of honey to sell and wants to make more money raising queens. He's building a Lanstroth based setup. The other is a woodworker who wants honey for his nee family and any extra to sell at the local open air markets, he's building top bar hives. Both are buolding the right hives for themselves.

I am not selling honey, don't even feel like selling wax. I am not breeding queens or selling queens or hive starter kits. I just brew Mead. For me the top bar system appeals.

Only thing I need is two laying hens and I have my own self sufficiency complete. Milling my own flour, making my own bread, chickens for eggs, cracky own grains, brew my own meads and beers. I'm prety chuffed
:)

I think I'll draw the line at getting my own cow, but I have thought about it!
Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
Cows are good but Goats are better .. and smaller :)

Tom
 
Cows are good but Goats are better .. and smaller :)

Tom

Mmm goat :) maybe.

Looked at a 1/2 acre property so could have run a cow :p but the drive would have been too long so skipped it.


Nothing to show picture wise on the TBH construction as I just pulled all the hives apart hardware wise and have been putting on a 1:20 mixture of BeesWax to Boiled Linseed Oil.. Heated up in a double boiler and then liberally painted on the bare wood. Smells lovely.


For those who like Wikipedia, there is a Top Bar Hive Webpage there.


Some pictures to look at while watching the paint dry:

Bees inside a new Top Bar Hive
bees_inside_hive.jpg

Bees making new comb on a waxed string top bar
new_comb.jpg

Bees working furiously to make the comb nice and big
working_bees.jpg

Bees drawing comb as seen inside the hive on the waxed strings
comb_top_bar.jpg

Close up of happy bees making comb the exact size they require for their needs
beautiful_bees_comb.jpg



Some Good Training Photographs

Brood, Capped Brood (memorize the shape, texture and colour of the caps and compare to honey that is capped), a single Drone in the lower left corner (bigger bee with large eyes), and a diagonal run of comb filled with Bee Bread in the lower left corner.
IMG_0024.JPG


Eggs laid by Queen with grubs facing directly up when viewed from top of cell. Because the Queen is so hard to find in a large colony you look for new eggs to see if she is still present and laying in the colony. Just look for the little pieces of rice in the cells.
IMG_0025.JPG


Awww cute, they look like little furry puppies! from planet Mars :)
IMG_0027.JPG


Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
SWMBO loves the perfect honeycomb shapes they form.

Amazing and very informative pics there BP.

Continue to keep us posted...
 
damn, this looks interesting. i won't be getting into it this year though, too much shit on.

how much does it cost to cure a bee sting allergy?
 
Back
Top