Brewtech SS fermenting vessels discussion thread

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Brewbucket: Couple of items: bad news then good.

I'm finding that when I rotate the racking arm the tap hole starts leaking (more like a slow bleed) with a little rivulet of beer running down to the tip of the cone and dripping off. Not a big problem as it's just happened during kegging. But today I pitched a brew then when I came back in half an hour there was a little pool of wort - probably just a teaspoons worth - right under the cone "point". Remembering the racking arm thing I rotated the tap a couple of degrees and all sweet now.

I've got a three piece ball valve and just trying to track down a bulkhead adaptor to screw it into, so no problem in the future hopefully but just wondering if other users have had a "bleed" situation from the tap hole using the supplied tap and washers.

Hey, I've set up a blow tube and it's good to note that the hose that I bought for the hose tail on the tap also perfectly fits the supplied bung of the brewbucket. Neat as. Kitten drowning pool hey. :p

brew bucket blow off.jpg


Still at ambient here 19 degrees in garage but not for much longer.
 
Has anybody had an issue trying to get the racking arm into the tap?
I might have missed something, but I can't seem to get the bugger in without completely warping the two little o rings. What am I doing wrong?
 
Bribie, I had the very same issue, with my first lager in the Brewbucket. Just tightened up the valve and decided not to use it again.
I rack with an auto siphon, which I may have mentioned elsewhere.
 
Andy_Chil said:
Has anybody had an issue trying to get the racking arm into the tap?
I might have missed something, but I can't seem to get the bugger in without completely warping the two little o rings. What am I doing wrong?
Hi All

If the tube will not fit into the tap without the o,rings warping and you have tried everything with no avail then please get in contact with whoever you purchased it from and we can sort it out for you.
 
I bought 2 brewbuckets and just love them. I had the same issue with the tap leaking on one, but I know it's my fault because I didn't remove them to rinse and flush and spray them between batch one and two.

However, my whinge (that I haven't seen any others reporting) is the fragility of the silicon bung. After 2 batches in each, they both showed signs of splitting in the area where the bungs contact the hole in the lid. So now I just cover the hole with starsanned cling wrap pushed in to block it off instead of using airlocks. Yet, I would have assumed they would be a little sturdier than that.

Cheers
Phil
 
antiphile said:
I bought 2 brewbuckets and just love them. I had the same issue with the tap leaking on one, but I know it's my fault because I didn't remove them to rinse and flush and spray them between batch one and two.

However, my whinge (that I haven't seen any others reporting) is the fragility of the silicon bung. After 2 batches in each, they both showed signs of splitting in the area where the bungs contact the hole in the lid. So now I just cover the hole with starsanned cling wrap pushed in to block it off instead of using airlocks. Yet, I would have assumed they would be a little sturdier than that.

Cheers
Phil
Hi Phil
This is another one I have not heard of and again if you think something isn't holding up then please let me or whoever you bought off know as we can make some arrangements to rectify.

Happy to help you out with some new bungs as they should defiantly last more then two brews. My original sample unit has had about 10 through on same bung.

Cheers

Gary
 
Hi Gary

I'm not seeking a replacement because I can't totally rule out pushing them in a bit too far to ensure a good seal (and then even further by placing the airlocks in them). So taking them out may have caused the problem.

But, I've still got them and I'll send you some pics tomorrow to your website email address just to show what I'm talking about.

Cheers and thanks for your kind offer and quick response
Phil
 
reading on the american home brew talk forum .I believe there was some problems with the bung and the manufacturers have upgraded to a harder compound bung now to stop this problem.
 
Hey Slugger, hope this isn't too late for ya, but that fridge looks just like mine. I had to do a bit of surgery and slice some of the middle door shelf off to fit the bucket in. It has very annoying door shelves so I'd been meaning to remove all of them but left things to pitching time and just rambo'd the thing with my fishing knife.

I'm also contemplating getting rid if the freezer section though unsure if this will create tonnes of condensation drippage?
 
Question time - maybe more 'Statement' time.
I have the 17 Gal.
I've noticed ferments are taking longer than in my round fermenters, either plastic of SS keg.

Nothing springs to mind as to why, except the surface area of the compacted yeast to wort.

All else remains the same - SG, volume, O2, pitch rate (as best I can do with yeastcalc) and of course FG. - Its possible Im getting a point or two lower, but my eyes arent that good these days and I dont think the delay in reaching stable FG is 1 or 2 points.

Now the stranger part - the ferments seem stronger - i.e. blowoff goes harder, bubble rate is increased for sure.

It just goes longer, as in days longer to reach FG.

The resultant 3 beers (small sample pool I know) are very very good, so I am happy with the results, just perplexed as to why they look faster and stronger, yet take longer.

Anyone else experiencing this? I may have to adjust brewing schedule if all ferments are going to take 4 or 5 days longer.

On a side note - how is everyone going dumping yeast? I am a long way from perfecting it. I seem to get a lot of beer and bugger all yeast out. I use the bend too if that makes a difference? I saw Florian dumps vertically.
 
I don't know if it been said here but the bungs can be replaced by a ss skin fitting I got 2 from eBay from boat hardware with a barb.
Sav.
 
Careless me has lost the ss lock nut that holds the ss valve onto the Brew Bucket. :(

I have organised for the purchase of another valve complete with nut, O-rings, etc but a couple of spare lock nuts would not go astray.

TTBOMK the thread is 3\8” NPT as a 3\8” BSP nut will not screw on & the market was originally directed at the Yanks ITFP.
Can anyone confirm that this is correct?

If the nut is 3\8" NPT then a link to a website that sells them would be much appreciated remembering that these ss lock nuts are grooved on one side to hold the O-ring securely in place.
Tried Evilbay without much success.
 
TidalPete said:
Careless me has lost the ss lock nut that holds the ss valve onto the Brew Bucket. :(

I have organised for the purchase of another valve complete with nut, O-rings, etc but a couple of spare lock nuts would not go astray.
TTBOMK the thread is 3\8” NPT as a 3\8” BSP nut will not screw on & the market was originally directed at the Yanks ITFP.
Can anyone confirm that this is correct?
If the nut is 3\8" NPT then a link to a website that sells them would be much appreciated remembering that these ss lock nuts are grooved on one side to hold the O-ring securely in place.
Tried Evilbay without much success.
Bumping for the weekend mob.
It may be YOU who loses his Brew Bucket locknut next time so any info is important to all of us.
There's no point in having a BB ball valve without a locknut so a spare locknut (or two) will always come in handy.
Just saying. :icon_cheers:
 
TidalPete said:
Careless me has lost the ss lock nut that holds the ss valve onto the Brew Bucket. :(

I have organised for the purchase of another valve complete with nut, O-rings, etc but a couple of spare lock nuts would not go astray.

TTBOMK the thread is 3\8” NPT as a 3\8” BSP nut will not screw on & the market was originally directed at the Yanks ITFP.
Can anyone confirm that this is correct?

If the nut is 3\8" NPT then a link to a website that sells them would be much appreciated remembering that these ss lock nuts are grooved on one side to hold the O-ring securely in place.
Tried Evilbay without much success.
Pete,
Can confirm they are 3/8 NPT.
Can't give you a link where to buy them though.
In the past I have used BSP and run a NPT tap through them, works ok but only if you have the tap.
 
Pete I have a 3 piece ball valve assembly now, you are most welcome to the old assembly, but first let me test the new one for leaks. ;)

How many taps does one man need? Happy to post but as I said I'll check first.
 
Are the nuts really grooved on one side? I recall mine looking quite symmetrical.
 
Yeah, both sides are bevelled to accomodate the o ring on my buckets.

I've considered going down the 3pc route due to sporadic leaks but don't want to lose the pick up tube. Spose there's no harm tilting it for the last few mls.
 
Pete, new assembly is leaking at the bulkhead, but I forgot to buy o rings / washers when I was at Pirtek getting the bulkhead fitting and tail, so I'm using the washers from the original BrewTech valve but I seem to need something a bit more robust. .

Will get me to Pirtek or Bunnings tomorrow then report back in the afternoon.

:)

Edit: when you are in tradie places like Pirtek they assume, when you front the counter, that you know exactly what you are doing and what precise parts you are after :lol: :lol:
 
Bribie G said:
Pete, new assembly is leaking at the bulkhead, but I forgot to buy o rings / washers when I was at Pirtek getting the bulkhead fitting and tail, so I'm using the washers from the original BrewTech valve but I seem to need something a bit more robust. .

Will get me to Pirtek or Bunnings tomorrow then report back in the afternoon.

:)

Edit: when you are in tradie places like Pirtek they assume, when you front the counter, that you know exactly what you are doing and what precise parts you are after :lol:
Offer gratefully accepted mate but no need to post ;) (pending your successful 3-piece ball valve rehabilitation of course) :p
The main reason why I didn't get a 3-piece was the problem of the locking nut not being recessed & spreading the O-ring whilst tightening.
Can you please try sealing (from the inside) using (lubed) O-ring -- flat ss washer -- locknut, in that order & tell us how you get on?
 
Will get a flat SS washer, alone amongst every 60++ in Australia, I don't have lots of jars of every nut, bolt, screw and washer ever produced in labelled jam jars affixed to a wooden rack by means of a screw through the lid of the jar. Oh my wasted life.


:lol: :lol:

jamjars.jpg
 
Back
Top