Brewtech SS fermenting vessels discussion thread

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I haven't read back through all the pages but was there a reason you couldn't bend the latches a little to put more pressure on Bribie?
 
I think SS actually have a guide on how to bend the latches with a couple of screwdrivers, macgyver style!

Mine still seem to work but i use bugga all pressure when transferring to kegs.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
sleeping dogs.png
 
Hey Guys, I am just working out how to transfer the beer from my 1bbl to kegs just wondering if anyone had any pics of there set up which could make things abit easier for myself
Cheers
 
Seen a few in this thread were having dramas earlier with the various options of airlock versus blow-off on buckets and chronicals.

Recently had issues with a Sterilock as posted here http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/86659-sterilock-airlock/page-2 so implemented a blow off tube. Worked great until I decided to be an idiot and dump the yeast from the bottom valve on my Chronical. I completely ignored physics and left my blow off installed. Next few days wondered why I was no longer hearing the bubbling of the blow off in the starsan. Figured out yesterday when I looked into the blow off jug to see half the starsan (~100mL) was missing. Once I lifted the hose above the liquid level I heard the blow off tube filled with starsan drop a whack of starsan into the brew and a little bit into the blow off jug :S

What are people doing when taking samples or dumping out the bottom, simply swapping over to a Sterilock or Airlock and returning to a blow off? Problem with that for me and I assume others is that you gotta remove the triclover from the top, exposing the fermenter to the room air potentially.

Thinking a tee piece with a 3-way valve could be handy, one side blow off and one side Sterilock (or other sanitary air filter), or even a CO2 bottle to counter the increased volume when drawing out liquid. Can't think of anything else unless I choose to live with the small risk by opening the top of the Chronical to change it over.
 
DJ_L3ThAL said:
Seen a few in this thread were having dramas earlier with the various options of airlock versus blow-off on buckets and chronicals.

Recently had issues with a Sterilock as posted here http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/86659-sterilock-airlock/page-2 so implemented a blow off tube. Worked great until I decided to be an idiot and dump the yeast from the bottom valve on my Chronical. I completely ignored physics and left my blow off installed. Next few days wondered why I was no longer hearing the bubbling of the blow off in the starsan. Figured out yesterday when I looked into the blow off jug to see half the starsan (~100mL) was missing. Once I lifted the hose above the liquid level I heard the blow off tube filled with starsan drop a whack of starsan into the brew and a little bit into the blow off jug :S

What are people doing when taking samples or dumping out the bottom, simply swapping over to a Sterilock or Airlock and returning to a blow off? Problem with that for me and I assume others is that you gotta remove the triclover from the top, exposing the fermenter to the room air potentially.

Thinking a tee piece with a 3-way valve could be handy, one side blow off and one side Sterilock (or other sanitary air filter), or even a CO2 bottle to counter the increased volume when drawing out liquid. Can't think of anything else unless I choose to live with the small risk by opening the top of the Chronical to change it over.
Sanitary Air filter here. If I am really energetic, I'll then purge that (sanitary) air with CO2. Some debate whether or not this really works, so thats why I sometimes do or dont. Hasn't seemed to make any difference to the packaged product. I tend to only do these days if I know the beer will be sitting for longer than normal before kegging.
 
What size barb fittings are on those filters? I assume for 5mm ID beer/gas line.

I'm contemplating just making an adaptor so I can just remove the blow off from the stars an and connect CO2 in at a very low pressure of 1psi to allow sample taking and then just put back into starsan. I'd typically have a co2 bottle next to my ferment fridge anyway so it wouldn't be a huge hassle. Thoughts?
 
I have a Tpiece on the top of my Chronical 7 mounted onts side and a glass window in the top of the straight and a 1/2 barbed fitting on the side going to the blow off jug of starsan.
I haven't the new rotatable sanitaty style racking arm and a sanitary sample valve on that too.
At the bottom I have a sanitary butterfly valve and usually a cap on the bottom.

Looks really good with all the extra bling.
I can look down the top and see what is happening so no lifting the lid.
When I want to drop yeast or move to Keg i lift the tube from the blow off and use a ball valve/ bottle carbonation fitting and connect to low pressure CO2. The connection at the CO2 is very loose so any pressure over 1-2psi and it leaks to stop over pressure of the fermenter.
I have a temp probe in the thermometer hole connected to a brewpi in the fridge to give perfect temps.
I use the racking arm and sample valve as output to keg. At the keg I open the lid and have purge CO2 flowing in there as well. It works well.

I would like a quality regulator that can actually deliver 1 or 2 psi but very low pressure regs are expensive. Spunding valves tend to trip and then not re-seal.

One way to prevent sucking the blow off in is to permanently have positive CO2 pressure but must be at very low pressure and to get it to work correctly is very difficult but possible but really not for home brewers.

A simpler way for avoiding getting the starsan in the fermenter is to have the blow off pipe have a large diameter section in its length so that if you suck it gets to the wide section and sucks all the blow off in and then sucks air past/ through the starsan and into fermenter. Better than the liquid.

I plan to try getting a better spunding valve maybe using a valve and pressure sensor and an electronic circuit to control it. I have searched for mechanical valves but still looking.

I do love the SS though, so much better than plastic.

Currently it has a brewdog punk IPA clone in it.

Got to get out more I think

Zwitter
James
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Could use a refractometer, that way you draw a very small amount out, so any air sucked in, is a bare minimum and you could keep your blow-off setup as it is..

I don't do it, but I'm thinking it might be a worthwhile idea.
 
Black Devil Dog said:
Could use a refractometer, that way you draw a very small amount out, so any air sucked in, is a bare minimum and you could keep your blow-off setup as it is..

I don't do it, but I'm thinking it might be a worthwhile idea.
doesn't a refractometer only measure unfermented sugars?
 
There are calculators to convert fermenting gravity with a refractometer. I use a refactometer as I only need to take a small sample.
 
The only time I've found refractometers to be problematic is when you're doing multiple sugar additions during fermentation. Then some drift between the calculations and reality starts to show.
 
Does anyone know if there's a brew shop in Sydney that has a ss brewmaster bucket on the shelf ready to purchase now.
 
stilvia said:
There are calculators to convert fermenting gravity with a refractometer. I use a refactometer as I only need to take a small sample.
can you suggest a calculator?
 
The one in Beersmith works well. PM me your email and I can send you an adjustment chart by email. Posted it in a few refrac threads and don't have time ATM.

Edit: Time made itself. Here's the adjustment doc. I got it from someone on here, but can't remember who, so apologies for no attribution.

View attachment Refractometer_Chart___During_Fermentation___Brix_to_SG.pdf
 

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