Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

[Brisfox]

ok I gotta ask what does the missus think of the hole in the screen door!!! h34r:
Really how/ where did you get a sheet of that?

Ive got a mate that installs windows, I think thats where I got it from.

 

[Edak]

Ive got a mate that installs windows, I think thats where I got it from.

And it's stainless 304 or 316?

 

[glenwal]

And it's stainless 304 or 316?

304

http://crimsafe.com.au/index.php?page=304-...stainless-steel

 

[NickB]

Looking good Tony!

Keep us updated!

 

[Edak]

Looks like you are well kitted up there Tony. Dh485? Not rs485? Hmm ok.
I don't think that anyone here is using analog SSR's including myself sorry I can't help there.
How much did you invest in that AB stuff?

 

[DJR]

I got my SSR's from Futurlec, they ended up being shipped from Thailand, they seem OK so far when i have used them. Hongfa units.

http://www.futurlec.com.au/RelSS.jsp

3-32VDC input range and 25mA max current over the input terminals. Mine is driven from 5V (USB) with a resistor (200 or 300 ohm from memory)with an LED inline as the SSR does not have an indicator.

On a related note they also have some flow sensors for a good price

http://www.futurlec.com.au/Flow_Sensor.jsp

 

[matho]

The PLC has RS232 and RS485 (and ethernet ). These are the electrical interface. DH-485 is the protocol language.

I have bought a 1763-NC01 cable to connect between the PLC and the HMI........ got it from china for a good price.

I have done some searching for SSR's but not really had a very serious look. Hoping someone here has some experience with them.

And price......... meh....... ebay and cheap overseas freight is a great thing. I'm not cutting corners on this rig. Its going to be a keeper!

and a gentleman never tells

mate no real experience with them had a quick search alot of places want $300+ for analog input but I have found THIS ONE not too bad at $82.50 including heatsink

hope this helps

cheers

 

[Edak]

mate no real experience with them had a quick search alot of places want $300+ for analog input but I have found THIS ONE not too bad at $82.50 including heatsink

hope this helps

cheers

Ocean is Pretty good, I trust thrm

 

[DJR]

Ahh sorry I had no idea you were looking for an analog SSR. Pretty sweet that you can do phase trigger/PWM via it with different current. You could use the analog output on an Arduino but that controller looks spiffy.

The more i look at it the more i think i could just use an Android tablet and USB 1-wire device E.g. http://www.maxim-ic.com/app-notes/index.mvp/id/4627 - use a 4 channel addressable switch to gang outputs, sure it would only give 4-bit accuracy but if you tweaked it that would still give plenty of duty cycle adjustments

 

[roller997]

nice find fitty!

I may well invest in 2 of them. most of what i could find was the Carlo Gavazzi RM1E23AA25......... seen in the states for about $80 US in most places.

http://www.ecdcontrols.com/electrical-comp...-switching.aspx

Farnell list them in Australia for just under $300 when their RRP in the USA is $100. Rip off *******s!

Might send them an email and see if they can drop the price if they keep their heat exchangers. I have 2 for mounting outside the panel already.

I have been doing a bit of searching for a cheap pressure transmitter to mount on the return to the mash from the pump to activate pump rests. I was thinking of flow meters, but cheap ones will only ever be a tumble wheel style and they don't like solids at all. and a 1/2" magflow is a bit out of my budget

Tony,

I know that the kit you bought is at the upper end of what could be used for automation and control. I can't help but wonder if your build might be deviating from the original spirit of the thread which did question paying whatever a Braumeister costs. What sort of coin have you spent on the build so far?


Thanks


Roller

 

[notung]

Tony,

I know that the kit you bought is at the upper end of what could be used for automation and control. I can't help but wonder if your build might be deviating from the original spirit of the thread which did question paying whatever a Braumeister costs. What sort of coin have you spent on the build so far?


Thanks


Roller

Or maybe a question to ask is what will Tony's rig be able to do that a braumeister can't...?

 

[Tony]

Tony,

I know that the kit you bought is at the upper end of what could be used for automation and control. I can't help but wonder if your build might be deviating from the original spirit of the thread which did question paying whatever a Braumeister costs. What sort of coin have you spent on the build so far?


Thanks


Roller

I was waiting for that.

I will build it a hell of a lot cheaper, it will brew beer the same as a cheaper one, but will be more of a personal enjoyment thing to automate it. but i will keep it to myself so as not to offend.

over and out B)

 

[bonj]

I question how anyone could be offended by someone else's build...

 

[MastersBrewery]

Tony, just be sure to share the shiny bling in all it's glory when yer done mate!

 

[Edak]

Added a snazzy jacket to my brauthingo today. I bought the 20mm insulating stuff from Clark Rubber, it was not cheap but I get a decent boil and much better temperature control and ramp times.

EDIT: By the way, I barely used half of what I bought so if anyone wants a piece up to 1300x600 then I can off it cheap or trade it for something.

 

[MastersBrewery]

Edak, mate thats lookin mighty sweet next to the coffee maker!

 

[Edak]

Edak, mate thats lookin mighty sweet next to the coffee maker!

Cheers, it was unintentional, just a convenient place to put it next to the sink while running water through it.

It does add to the bling though. Unfortunately the jacket removes that ultra-bling factor from the polished stainless vessel underneath.

 

[domfergo]

Gday All

build is very very slowley comining together....

still have not decided on how to get the malt pipe happening... might have to get it custom made for my 350mm diameter measurement

just had a quick question on the element, because i am going to build a double batch setup and going to try to make it so i can take it to any location and brew with (mainly because i am still in rentals) i need to run 2 elements in my system

i was thinking of running one 2000w and one 2400w running on two different breakers in the house. the 2000w element is so i can also run the march pump and stereo on this circuit and not go over the 10amps....

i am going to have to run these both either intermingled or above and below each other in the other vessel which will be a fair amout of stuffing around, but from talking to reps think it can be done.(may have to make little s/s standoff brackets to stop it drooping)

What i really want to know is can i get away with using high watt/density elements? just trying to limit the amount of element i have to work with...

i have done alot of reading on wort scorching and it seems that it happens when people pour malt concentrate directley onto an element, rims setups and some times with wheat and rye beers. There is just as much information stating that is just an urban myth...

My thinking is because we are having a continusly recirculating system there would be no real threat of and wort sitting in the same spot of any lenght of time hence eliminating scorching... I was playing with the idea of having two pickups but think the pump will still only draw from the path of least resistance anyway. to get around this i was going to insert an elbow in the pick up so it pulls from one side creating a mini whirlpool in the outer vessel

i am thinking of using these elements from thermal products



H03724 - 705mm - 2000W - 240V

H03725 - 840mm -2400W - 240V



thoughts???

p.s. edak - love the insulation!!

 

[kymba]

massatomic, what diameter is your main pot? could you use a smaller pot like this inside?

http://handyimports.com.au/new-commercial-...t-saucepan.html

 

[Edak]

Gday All

build is very very slowley comining together....

still have not decided on how to get the malt pipe happening... might have to get it custom made for my 350mm diameter measurement

just had a quick question on the element, because i am going to build a double batch setup and going to try to make it so i can take it to any location and brew with (mainly because i am still in rentals) i need to run 2 elements in my system

i was thinking of running one 2000w and one 2400w running on two different breakers in the house. the 2000w element is so i can also run the march pump and stereo on this circuit and not go over the 10amps....

i am going to have to run these both either intermingled or above and below each other in the other vessel which will be a fair amout of stuffing around, but from talking to reps think it can be done.(may have to make little s/s standoff brackets to stop it drooping)

What i really want to know is can i get away with using high watt/density elements? just trying to limit the amount of element i have to work with...

i have done alot of reading on wort scorching and it seems that it happens when people pour malt concentrate directley onto an element, rims setups and some times with wheat and rye beers. There is just as much information stating that is just an urban myth...

My thinking is because we are having a continusly recirculating system there would be no real threat of and wort sitting in the same spot of any lenght of time hence eliminating scorching... I was playing with the idea of having two pickups but think the pump will still only draw from the path of least resistance anyway. to get around this i was going to insert an elbow in the pick up so it pulls from one side creating a mini whirlpool in the outer vessel

i am thinking of using these elements from thermal products



H03724 - 705mm - 2000W - 240V

H03725 - 840mm -2400W - 240V



thoughts???

p.s. edak - love the insulation!!

cheers mass, I think I have gone a little overboard with the insulation, but I love the look of it.

I hear mixed opinions about scorching the wort but if you ask me I see many people using the keg king straight elements which are not low density, and non, of them complain about scorching. As long as you keep circulating then you should be fine. Personally I think that you will need two elements when ramping and boiling and you will only need one for holding temperature.