Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

[Brisfox]

cheers mass, I think I have gone a little overboard with the insulation, but I love the look of it.

I hear mixed opinions about scorching the wort but if you ask me I see many people using the keg king straight elements which are not low density, and non, of them complain about scorching. As long as you keep circulating then you should be fine. Personally I think that you will need two elements when ramping and boiling and you will only need one for holding temperature.

Fellas my +1 is that there is a formular for this sort of thing. Density of the liquid to the surface area of the element.
The Co that supplied my element worked it out from the density of molases.

The companies called Cynebar, they where very helpful.

 

[domfergo]

massatomic, what diameter is your main pot? could you use a smaller pot like this inside?

http://handyimports.com.au/new-commercial-...t-saucepan.html

i was still going to try and incorparate the same type of system design that the orginal uses by having two seperate malt pipes so i can still do single batches when trying something new or unknown.

i have calculated my volumes using 350mm malt pipe having one at 270mm and 430mm, it seems that most pots are symetrical so 350mmX350mm - falling short for the big pipe

if i can get a symetrical pipes of the same dimensions i only have to tackle the filter plate design once

there is options but they are just expensive is all

edak - thanks for your advice, i was thinking along the same likes just needed to hear it from someone else for reassurance :icon_cheers:

 

[wotafm]

hi all,

finally got moving on my unit i am using two pots from handy imports the 50L 400 x400 and the 17L 280 x 280 modified to make it 350mm high by adding 70mm to the bottom.
View attachment 56243


stand
View attachment 56244

filter plates

View attachment 56245

cooling coil just needs a good clean

View attachment 56246

have a nice fast red pump

View attachment 56247

this is how it looks so far



thing i still need are heating element and controls (on the waiting list for matho's )

and a couple of fittings so i can hook the pump up

a couple of questions the filter plates have 2mm holes is this fine enough or will i have to get some finer mesh to use as well?

and has anyone taken there drain valve from the bottom of the tank rather then the side?

was thinking it may be easier to seal that way (just not sure how much sediment you would get setting in it.

looking forward to get this sucker going so i can try my first A/G brew started.

cheers dave

 

[domfergo]

wotafm that looks pretty bloody good!

love your filter plates and also you may have help me with your idea of joining the two pots for your malt pipe... were the pots ok to weld?

there is no reason you couldnt take your drain hole from the bottom really. Make sure its right on the out side so after you whirlpool it does not suck in the trub...

you could use your pump to get the wort out if you had it on disconnects or camlocks with a valve

as for 2mm.... i think it could go either way, give it a run with a coarse crush and see how it goes - not hard to add a voile material bag over it if it does not work

great stuff, you have put a lot of effort into it! cant wait to see it in action either!! :icon_drool2:

 

[blotto]

hi all,

finally got moving on my unit i am using two pots from handy imports the 50L 400 x400 and the 17L 280 x 280 modified to make it 350mm high by adding 70mm to the bottom.
View attachment 56243
this is how it looks so far

View attachment 56254

thing i still need are heating element and controls (on the waiting list for matho's )

and a couple of fittings so i can hook the pump up

a couple of questions the filter plates have 2mm holes is this fine enough or will i have to get some finer mesh to use as well?

and has anyone taken there drain valve from the bottom of the tank rather then the side?

was thinking it may be easier to seal that way (just not sure how much sediment you would get setting in it.

looking forward to get this sucker going so i can try my first A/G brew started.

cheers dave

That looks great Dave! I was thinking of having some mesh over the outlet on the bottom to keep the odd stray grain out of the pump. Where did you get your perforated stainless from? I'm using the same pots but I think my malt pipe is 19L (it's in storage at the moment)

 

[blotto]

That looks great Dave! I was thinking of having some mesh over the outlet on the bottom to keep the odd stray grain out of the pump. Where did you get your perforated stainless from? I'm using the same pots but I think my malt pipe is 19L (it's in storage at the moment)

Nope I was wrong I have the 17L pot as well that's a great idea extending it. It's a bit hard to see in the pic did you have to cut the bottom out?

 

[Edak]

I acquired myself a piece of scrap perforated stainless, however the hole density is high (lots of 2mm holes) and the thickness is low (~1mm). It feels relatively strong, but I know that it is not "that" strong. I plan on using this until I have any better option. In order to use it though I figured that I MUST have a X holding it down because it will otherwise bend. As I have no access to a welder for some time (my mate is out of town for the next couple of weeks) I had to find a solution that would be weldless.

I found some sort of stainless rails at "chef land", which looked quite strong and were actually the PERFECT size for the 19L pot. And then I had an idea!

I cut down one rail and drilled the center of each...

laid one over the top of the other, so that they both held in the newly cut perf sheet.

note that the main round bar holds down the cut piece for extra strength.

I also figure that it is a good time to show how I slide the plate onto the center rod...

(the thread sits perfectly within the U bend of the bar)

I think that given the X that this should be strong enough to hold in those grains

Probably need to use some of that mesh/voile to keep the dregs out though.

GETTING CLOSER!

 

[breakbeer]

EDIT: By the way, I barely used half of what I bought so if anyone wants a piece up to 1300x600 then I can off it cheap or trade it for something.

PM sent :icon_cheers:

 

[wotafm]

wotafm that looks pretty bloody good!

love your filter plates and also you may have help me with your idea of joining the two pots for your malt pipe... were the pots ok to weld?

there is no reason you couldnt take your drain hole from the bottom really. Make sure its right on the out side so after you whirlpool it does not suck in the trub...

you could use your pump to get the wort out if you had it on disconnects or camlocks with a valve

as for 2mm.... i think it could go either way, give it a run with a coarse crush and see how it goes - not hard to add a voile material bag over it if it does not work

great stuff, you have put a lot of effort into it! cant wait to see it in action either!! :icon_drool2:

i did not weld two pot together i found a piece of 1.2mm strip and hand rolled it around a bucket of all things. i purged welded at about 25amps doing 20mm on one side spinning it around 180deg doing another 20mm and rolled it around again and again.

That looks great Dave! I was thinking of having some mesh over the outlet on the bottom to keep the odd stray grain out of the pump. Where did you get your perforated stainless from? I'm using the same pots but I think my malt pipe is 19L (it's in storage at the moment)

the mesh come from a mob called m&s stainless http://www.msstainless.com.au/ it was a leftover from a job

Nope I was wrong I have the 17L pot as well that's a great idea extending it. It's a bit hard to see in the pic did you have to cut the bottom out?

i did cut the bottom out and am using the roll on the bottom to hold the bottom screen up 70mm off the base so if i worked it out right total volume of the mash pipe is app 21l so i should be able to just squeeze in 5-6kg of grain fingers crossed

 

[Tony]

Edak............ i could f@#ken kiss you!

Your great ideas just solved some design issues i have been having!

legend!

 

[Edak]

Please elaborate Tony!
I don't give out free kisses

I wanted to know whether anyone bothered with a dome lid and if so whether they are worried about dms.

 

[Tony]

The main one is the simple one........... the hose barb drilled out to slide over the center rod!

Gold!

The other is the recessed supports for the top FB...... i recon u could build something very easily and cheaply with some light 25mm SS angle.

I am planning on getting some 1 or 1.5mm thick SS perf from Metalmesh in sydney. Its about $50 for a 1000 x 500mm sheet with 1 or 2 mm holes, but its about $60 a sheet to get it posted.

having a company car means a drive to Sydney to pick it up i guess

cheers

 

[Tony]

A question for everyone already using these machines.......

Is it better to get a large aperture perforated plate and use a fine SS mesh, or just use a smaller aperture perforated plate with 1 to 1.5mm holes and about 23% open area?

has anyone done any trials with different combo's of mesh and perf at the top and bottom of the mash?

 

[dmac80]

I'm using perforated sheet with about 5 mm diameter holes, i think the open area percentage would be fairly high (didn't get the specs with the sheet) and some ss mesh from a cooking splatter guard.

Seems to work well for me, but i haven't done a comparison.

When i make another one, will use the same materials.

Cheers

 

[Tony]

Mmmmm....... the perf Edak has used looks exactly the same as the stuff i have here....... 2mm holes x 3mm pitch and 0.75mm thick. It buckled when i tried to use it as a false bottom in my current mash tun. Its way too thin. It has an open area of 40%, and most brewing literature i have read, recommends an open area of around the 20% mark for a good false bottom.

once you go over 3mm holes, you may as well use 10mm perf with some mesh, will give the same result.

I'm thinking about giving Metal Mesh a ring and asking if i can come check out what they have. I feel the need to see and feel the plate. Spec sheets don't tell you how rigid or heavy the stuff is.

I guess im starting to wonder big holes and mesh or little holes (1mm) and no mesh ???

Edit:
(didn't get the specs with the sheet)

 

[Edak]

Mmmmm....... the perf Edak has used looks exactly the same as the stuff i have here....... 2mm holes x 3mm pitch and 0.75mm thick. It buckled when i tried to use it as a false bottom in my current mash tun. Its way too thin. It has an open area of 40%, and most brewing literature i have read, recommends an open area of around the 20% mark for a good false bottom.

once you go over 3mm holes, you may as well use 10mm perf with some mesh, will give the same result.

I'm thinking about giving Metal Mesh a ring and asking if i can come check out what they have. I feel the need to see and feel the plate. Spec sheets don't tell you how rigid or heavy the stuff is.

I guess im starting to wonder big holes and mesh or little holes (1mm) and no mesh ???

Edit:
(didn't get the specs with the sheet)

Hey Tony,
when you say it buckled, what sort of support did it have and over what area? As you can see by my design I have an X, would this be enough to prevent the, buckling? Is there as much pressure on the top plate as a gravity fed false bottom?

 

[Edak]

Oh and the barbs are 13mm with 10mm ID so they didn't need drilling

 

[Tony]

I had no support, which is way i thought your weldless design was so tops!

And i have 12mm dia SS rod for my center pole, so i may need to drill a bit but those hose barbs are the perfect cheap option!

Mmmm reminds me...... i need to order some 4-20 mA SSR's tonight ans find my drawings so i can get some prices on SS fab

 

[Edak]

So nobody is making or has made a dome lid for their BM?

Oh well, I guess I will have to nut that one out too....

One more piece of advice that I am after. I am going to use the ikea splatter screen as a fine mesh filter and will attach it to the filter plate (one each plate). What have you used to keep it in place? Is there something I can get from bunnings (ie stainless steel wire)?

 

[MastersBrewery]

So nobody is making or has made a dome lid for their BM?

Oh well, I guess I will have to nut that one out too....

One more piece of advice that I am after. I am going to use the ikea splatter screen as a fine mesh filter and will attach it to the filter plate (one each plate). What have you used to keep it in place? Is there something I can get from bunnings (ie stainless steel wire)?

I'm sure I read a while back that one of the guys was going to use a stainless bowl inverted hole cut in the middle with a pipe mated to that, vaguely remember seeing a pic of it..... may have been dreaming though