Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

[dmac80]

I've tied my splatter guard mesh on with Stainless Steel wire, i think a neater option might be to get some 'u' shaped rubber channel to go around the outside of the screen.

I think MHB has been using something like this on the Braumeisters, but i haven't tried it on my machine yet. I just haven't found the thread where it was discussed yet...

As Masters Brewery said, i know of one guy who intends to use a large stainless cooking bowl as a hood for his brewery. Can't see why it won't work.

Cheers

 

[Edak]

I've tied my splatter guard mesh on with Stainless Steel wire, i think a neater option might be to get some 'u' shaped rubber channel to go around the outside of the screen.

I think MHB has been using something like this on the Braumeisters, but i haven't tried it on my machine yet. I just haven't found the thread where it was discussed yet...

As Masters Brewery said, i know of one guy who intends to use a large stainless cooking bowl as a hood for his brewery. Can't see why it won't work.

Cheers

The bowl that was pictured would have returned all of the condensation back into the pot, which is not very good (DMS). I was curious as to a good method for tacking that.

To be honest, I happened to already have the exact size bowl that would fit on the top of my system but need a (cheap) way to ensure no condensation is returned into my brew!

 

[seamad]

So nobody is making or has made a dome lid for their BM?

Oh well, I guess I will have to nut that one out too....

One more piece of advice that I am after. I am going to use the ikea splatter screen as a fine mesh filter and will attach it to the filter plate (one each plate). What have you used to keep it in place? Is there something I can get from bunnings (ie stainless steel wire)?

I removed the wire frame from my splatter guard and it is held in place against the plate with some pinch seal from clarks rubber, works a charm and seals nicely against the bigw pot. I took my top filter plate and mesh into clarks to make sure it was a good fit.
Cheers sean

 

[matho]

The bowl that was pictured would have returned all of the condensation back into the pot, which is not very good (DMS). I was curious as to a good method for tacking that.

To be honest, I happened to already have the exact size bowl that would fit on the top of my system but need a (cheap) way to ensure no condensation is returned into my brew!

I have been thinking about this too, I would think you would have to put channels inside the bowl to catch the condensation and drain it away like this



maybe pop riveted on and a drain hole somewhere, the condensation should run down the sides of the bowl so a channel down the bottom to catch that and then another one up the top the catch any condensation that collects in the chimney.

cheers steve

 

[Edak]

I thought of having two SS bowls, one as shown in the earlier images that matches the profile of the pot, and one larger than the diameter of the pot with the "bottom" of it cut out so you have a large hole over which the smaller fits.

a picture is worth 1kWords (except my pictures, which suck)

EDIT: clarify with another picture

 

[MastersBrewery]

hey both your pics are better than what I can do, already proved that, but see you got what I meant, good luck with it Edak

 

[Edak]

is it necessary to have a "chimney"?

 

[matho]

no

but I have been thinking of making one to take the steam out of the kitchen and to reduce the amount of condensation around the kitchen

 

[lukec]

hey edak, i have the upside down stainless bowl. all condensation runs back down the inside of the bowl to outside my kettle. i oversised it so it would work that way. no condensation runs off it to the inside.

 

[Edak]

hey edak, i have the upside down stainless bowl. all condensation runs back down the inside of the bowl to outside my kettle. i oversised it so it would work that way. no condensation runs off it to the inside.

Hey luke,

how does it sit on the pot? wouldn't the rim of the pot touch the inside of the bowl and create a path back inside the brew? how big is your chimney hole? Do you have photos?

Are you back at work yet?

SOOO many questions!

 

[domfergo]

i just had the best quote by far for getting my malt pipe made up and thought i would share if anyone is looking for a custom size.

i actually got the link off another thread but it applies to me. They make ss pressure vesseles and kegs, so they have machinery set up for making cylinders and doing it at a 1/3 of the cost of a standard sheet metal place

dez was very helpful!

Stainless Tanks

Cheers

Mass

 

[kymba]

this is my solution for a temporary malt pipe/pot while i get my bits-n-bobs sorted for the real one http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=943972

didn't post in here as its a bit dodgery

 

[lukec]

Hey luke,

how does it sit on the pot?

it sits over the top the keg which im using.

wouldn't the rim of the pot touch the inside of the bowl and create a path back inside the brew?

I cut and folded the rim of the mixing bowl so it sits a little bit off the keg so anything that runs down the inside of the bowl actually runs outside the rim of my kek
how big is your chimney hole?

My chimney hole is in the experimental stages. I started off with 65mm and had an crazy boil. Im out to 125mm and still getting an awsome boil. Im hoping to to get to 175mm and still have a vigorous boil then i will be happy.

I did a belgian strong ale in it approx 5kg grain 23l to start and 8l sparge (rinse) 500g brown sugar and 500g belgian candy i ended up with 18l into fermenter at 1078 after 60min boil so im pretty happy with the way things are going in it.
All i need is someone to build me mathos controller ( me pay them $$ ) and it truly will be finished.

Do you have photos?

No not of bowl ( chimney ) yet. And its to cold and im to lazy to walk to shed tonight.

Are you back at work yet?


Yes back to work. It sucks balls big time. These stay at home mums just dont realize how good they have it.

SOOO many questions!

 

[Edak]

Thanks for that luke, I could help build mathos controller if you can convince those guys that they have scrap perf.

I am pretty good at soldering if i say so myself.

 

[gava]

I noticed that a 50lt keg would be perfect for what your talking about with this picture, I know your using pots but if anyones using a keg it already has a lip with drainage holes to the outside of the pot.

NOTE: this is a linked picture from www.saltfish.net which I found via google so if it stops working thats why.(linked)

I thought of having two SS bowls, one as shown in the earlier images that matches the profile of the pot, and one larger than the diameter of the pot with the "bottom" of it cut out so you have a large hole over which the smaller fits.

a picture is worth 1kWords (except my pictures, which suck)

EDIT: clarify with another picture

 

[lukec]

Thanks for that luke, I could help build mathos controller if you can convince those guys that they have scrap perf.

I am pretty good at soldering if i say so myself.

I rang them yesterday afternoon and asked about any perf stainless. I found out the only reason i got some is that it was left overs from a special order they had done.

They said they will call me if any they get any more ( I wont hold my breath )

Help building mathos controller would be awesome. But will not be ordering for a few months as other things need to spend money on at the moment. I will start saving my scrap metal money for one i think.

 

[angus_grant]

Well, I think I have solved my top filter plate problem, and all for the measly price of $40 for 316 stainless steel. And thanks to Whitworths again, who I got my skin fittings from. I grabbed their catalogue and was reading through it and something caught my eye. Something very interesting!

34 cms in diameter. It was all sounding too good to be true. The grill sits inside the pot nicely, I have yet to figure out if my original catch system will still work (some 316 stainless hatch locks from Whitworths as well), And I will be able to attach the stainless wire mesh I have to the bottom of the plate. I can't physically flex the grill by hand, and I tried pretty hard.... So I think the problem is solved. B) And all for $40...

I will need to have a bit of extra water to get over the lip but I don't think that is a big deal...

So here is a shot of the grill cooker on top of my Big W malt pipe:

 

[Edak]

Well, I think I have solved my top filter plate problem, and all for the measly price of $40 for 316 stainless steel. And thanks to Whitworths again, who I got my skin fittings from. I grabbed their catalogue and was reading through it and something caught my eye. Something very interesting!

34 cms in diameter. It was all sounding too good to be true. The grill sits inside the pot nicely, I have yet to figure out if my original catch system will still work (some 316 stainless hatch locks from Whitworths as well), And I will be able to attach the stainless wire mesh I have to the bottom of the plate. I can't physically flex the grill by hand, and I tried pretty hard.... So I think the problem is solved. B) And all for $40...

I will need to have a bit of extra water to get over the lip but I don't think that is a big deal...

So here is a shot of the grill cooker on top of my Big W malt pipe:

Hey Angus, how thick is that perf?
I am guessing that the lip is what gives it strength so if it was cut to fit the pipe then it would probably be too weak.
Nice find though, if I am wrong then Whitworth will get many orders

 

[angus_grant]

Hey Edak,

You are bang on about the lip providing strength. The perf is about 2mm thick and could be bent by hand quite easily if there was no lip. From the lip it angles inwards to the perf section. Halfway along the angled section is where it sits on the pot so I don't see a need to trim the lip. I'll post up a photo when I get home.

Like i said, may have to rethink my fastening system. Not sure if I can get hatch locks to work, but I haven't even had time to look at it yet. And the proof will be in the testing.

And annoyingly the SS wire mesh I picked up from another member is a little too small to cover all the holes. >-|

Cheers,
Angus.

 

[Edak]

Hey Edak,

You are bang on about the lip providing strength. The perf is about 2mm thick and could be bent by hand quite easily if there was no lip. From the lip it angles inwards to the perf section. Halfway along the angled section is where it sits on the pot so I don't see a need to trim the lip. I'll post up a photo when I get home.

Like i said, may have to rethink my fastening system. Not sure if I can get hatch locks to work, but I haven't even had time to look at it yet. And the proof will be in the testing.

And annoyingly the SS wire mesh I picked up from another member is a little too small to cover all the holes. >-|

Cheers,
Angus.

2mm thick?
That is awesome! There should be no easy way to bend it even without the lip. It must be quite heavy.

If my weak perf fails then it is time to go to Whitworths I think.