Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

[MastersBrewery]

I remember seeing a brau type clone, think it was on youtube 100l or so, he had attached a circle of flat bar on edge to his clamping bar. Dont have any drawing programs loaded so hope this makes sense. So spreading the load of holding the filter plate should mean starndard perf should work.

 

[domfergo]

So that rules out aliminium

Weight bearing arms with a filter material is looking like the only reasonably cheap option.

 

[Edak]

Just thinking about this, perhaps I am best getting my mate to weld a second pipe to my lock-down bar to turn it into a big x like below images.

Current:

Modified:

I would probably be able to use the plate below at the filter plate...

What do you think?

 

[Lakey]

I was thinking about how I was going to build the plumbing for my braumiser utilising the t-piece and came up with replacing the elbow piece with the t-piece as in drawing below...

Just wondering if this would work?

View attachment securedownload.bmp

 

[seamad]

Just thinking about this, perhaps I am best getting my mate to weld a second pipe to my lock-down bar to turn it into a big x like below images.

Current:

Modified:

I would probably be able to use the plate below at the filter plate...

What do you think?

Id be going the cross, four points better than two.

 

[domfergo]

I was thinking about how I was going to build the plumbing for my braumiser utilising the t-piece and came up with replacing the elbow piece with the t-piece as in drawing below...

Just wondering if this would work?

Looks the goods! Think I will do the same

 

[Edak]

I was thinking about how I was going to build the plumbing for my braumiser utilising the t-piece and came up with replacing the elbow piece with the t-piece as in drawing below...

Just wondering if this would work?

I think that it would work perfectly it should not restrict flow too much especially if you have a strong pump.
I am however not sure about your element coming out of the side though as I haven't seen one of these elements with the coil in the right spot and be able to actually get it into the pot YMMV.

 

[domfergo]

I think that it would work perfectly it should not restrict flow too much especially if you have a strong pump.
I am however not sure about your element coming out of the side though as I haven't seen one of these elements with the coil in the right spot and be able to actually get it into the pot YMMV.

Not sure what you mean by this edak.. If you could explain it would be much appreciated

I am going to have to run 2 x 2400w elements in mine and I was thinking of using the thermal products.com.au ones that come in at 2280mm. If my coil runs around at the 42cm diameter of my 45 cm pot it gives me A circumference of 1394mm meaning the elements will rap around nearly twice. I haven't bought them yet but have been thinking how I can make the two of the run around the pots and still get the fittings to the bottom?

Having them come out the side solves this problem.

 

[matho]

Id be going the cross, four points better than two.

hey edak, just a note you will have to put something on the cross pieces near the ends to push the filter plate down about 5 mm into the pot because if you don't the flare in the top of the pot will let grain through.

cheers steve

 

[Lakey]

I think that it would work perfectly it should not restrict flow too much especially if you have a strong pump.
I am however not sure about your element coming out of the side though as I haven't seen one of these elements with the coil in the right spot and be able to actually get it into the pot YMMV.

Yeah I havent decided on my element as of yet, all still in planning stage atm, but good point!

 

[notung]

I was thinking about how I was going to build the plumbing for my braumiser utilising the t-piece and came up with replacing the elbow piece with the t-piece as in drawing below...

Just wondering if this would work?

The plumbing design looks simple and, from what I can tell, effective. Thanks for sharing. I'd do the same unless anyone sees a reason it wouldn't work.

 

[hosko11]

I went out last Friday morning to have a look at these guys: http://www.metalmesh.com.au/stainless-steel-mesh

They are a manufacturer and wouldn't give me a price (not even a ball park figure) which was a bit frustrating as I now have to go to one of the retailers and waste their time getting a quote which will probably be way too high and a waste of everyone's time. I went in and a receptionist gave me some sample books and left me to it. So I didn't even get to talk to anyone technical about materials, strengths, weaknesses, try and con them into giving me some off-cuts, etc. Anyhoo....

If you have a look at the "hollander weave woven wire" link on that page, that looks the most suitable. You would still have to build actual framework to stop it from bending under the pump pressure. I think you might get away with not requiring filter material as the weave is quite tight. I got one of their brochures which has photos of the available metal at actual sizes. I also wrote down the two choices I thought would be suitable so will go to one of the retailers and get them to quote it up for me. But this is all at home so can't quote product codes. I'll post them up tonight.

None of their perforated SS sheeting looks suitable as the ones with the smaller holes is made from a thin sheet which I could bend by hand, and the thicker sheets had 5mm holes.

Another option for purchasing SS woven mesh is Amazon/Small Parts from the US. I prefer to support local suppliers but after getting a similar run around as you and only to find suppliers prepared to sell 1m at $200+, I brought a range of 12"x24" pieces (5 different opening sizes and wire thicknesses) off Amazon for around $55 + shipping. I had some other stuff coming out from the US via a shipping agent, so not sure what the shipping cost would have been just for the SS mesh.

 

[angus_grant]

I was thinking about how I was going to build the plumbing for my braumiser utilising the t-piece and came up with replacing the elbow piece with the t-piece as in drawing below...

Just wondering if this would work?

I thought of something this morning. With the temp probe being in the body of the main vessel: when you are ramping up to mash temperature you don't have the malt pipe in the vessel so thermal convection currents should circulate the water somewhat and you should get a fairly even temp range in the entire body of water

With the temp probe being in the pump plumbing wouldn't you need the pump running to circulate water across the temp probe to give you an accurate temp throughout the body of water. I wouldn't think water would circulate through the plumbing by itself.

??

 

[lukec]

My temp probe is in the side of my vessel and i have no worries, temp is always accurate and i also run the pump when ramping up to temp to make sure it is even all over.

 

[lukec]

Just thinking about this, perhaps I am best getting my mate to weld a second pipe to my lock-down bar to turn it into a big x like below images.

Current:

Modified:

I would probably be able to use the plate below at the filter plate...

What do you think?

Hey Edak,

Is that one of those pizza trays. If so i tried them at first. Even with 4 points it will bend like you wouldnt believe. They are what i tried first time i used mine. I just ended up with a boil full of grain trying to make a wheat beer. Was terrible ended up chucking 20l down the drain.

 

[Edak]

Not sure what you mean by this edak.. If you could explain it would be much appreciated

I am going to have to run 2 x 2400w elements in mine and I was thinking of using the thermal products.com.au ones that come in at 2280mm. If my coil runs around at the 42cm diameter of my 45 cm pot it gives me A circumference of 1394mm meaning the elements will rap around nearly twice. I haven't bought them yet but have been thinking how I can make the two of the run around the pots and still get the fittings to the bottom?

Having them come out the side solves this problem.

I have the same element in mine, what I would recommend is that you bend the large radius around the pot and use a proper bending tool to bend the ends down to the base of the pot. Right in the middle of the element I would recommend having a very small "z" bend so the element at the top of the coil can easily pass down to the base. This is what I tried to explain to the ThermalProducts guys who didn't bend it that way and made it harder for me.

Image for you of what I mean...

I recommend that you don't rely on the washers that they gave you.

hey edak, just a note you will have to put something on the cross pieces near the ends to push the filter plate down about 5 mm into the pot because if you don't the flare in the top of the pot will let grain through.

cheers steve

The plate in my previous post has a small lip that sits on the top edge of the pot, so I am hoping that the X locks this down to the top of the pot. The plate then dips down into the pot (the other part of the lip) so this should hopefully hold in place. If this is unlikely to work then I would have to cut the lip off the plate, sit it into the pot and as you have stated put stand-offs onto the X.

See how it sits on top of the pot (In this photo the plate is upside down).

Do you think that even with a cross that the plate would bend enough to let grain through (assuming that it first gets through the fine SS mesh first)? If so then I have other problems to worry about because the holes are about 10mm.

 

[Edak]

Hey Edak,

Is that one of those pizza trays. If so i tried them at first. Even with 4 points it will bend like you wouldnt believe. They are what i tried first time i used mine. I just ended up with a boil full of grain trying to make a wheat beer. Was terrible ended up chucking 20l down the drain.

Oh you posted when I was replying. Damn it is one of those trays. I guess it's going to be back to the drawing board then.
Would this at least be suitable for the bottom plate considering its not as load-bearing?

 

[lukec]

Oh you posted when I was replying. Damn it is one of those trays. I guess it's going to be back to the drawing board then.
Would this at least be suitable for the bottom plate considering its not as load-bearing?

It should be ok for the bottom plate, i only used them once as i ended up getting the stainless ones. Even with the stainless ive had to brace it quite well as the pressure from a march pump pushing up is quite alot.

Im brewing sat morning so i will take some photos if mine while its mashing so ill take some photos so you can see what ive done.

 

[Edak]

It should be ok for the bottom plate, i only used them once as i ended up getting the stainless ones. Even with the stainless ive had to brace it quite well as the pressure from a march pump pushing up is quite alot.

Im brewing sat morning so i will take some photos if mine while its mashing so ill take some photos so you can see what ive done.

You wouldn't happen to be able to get any more of those offcuts would you? I would pay you generously for them

 

[lukec]

You wouldn't happen to be able to get any more of those offcuts would you? I would pay you generously for them

I probably can if your prepared to wait a month. Im annual leave for next month to look after kids while wife travels Europe.
Our office is 10mins from Henlaws. I can just ring them and see if they have any and just pick it up for you. Only cost for you will be what they cost me.

And of course if your happy to pick them up from me. Good excuse to come out to Hargraves Hill for a beer too.



Luke