Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
You could attach your centre rod to an oversize washer which you might have to make yourself out of sheet metal or attach it to a skin fitting.
post-21635-0-08461000-1397124744_thumb.jpg
1.jpg
Excuse crappy drawing but paint is all we have at work but you should get what I mean.
 
While I'm on the subject of crappy drawings here's another one of a malt pipe.
post-21635-0-53818400-1397125268_thumb.jpg
scan0001 (3).jpg
The grey area represents a mesh screen or voile.
The thinking behind it is the wort flows through the mesh screen rather than over the top and if any grain gets past the top plate it will be caught by the mesh/voile.
 
That's a cool idea. Also doing away with a centre bolt and clamping the malt pipe from the top would be easier to engineer and would benefit the removal of malt pipe.
 
My biggest issue is trying to keep the build simple. Plumbing fittings are easy and all of the holes for these fittings can be cut with one holesaw or I can get a punch. I think fabricating those other ideas is a bit beyond me.

For the filters I am hoping I can find some splatter guards that fit close enough then if necessary adding cut silicon hose to the edges to provide a good seal. Is that a good idea or do I want them to be able to move?
 
Also, I'm still trying to figure out how to wire an element. My intention is to use a TE bendable element which I understand comes with a waterproof bulkhead to get the terminals through the pot. I'm then planning on using an ABS project box for a BCS460 and wiring. The element will be wired to an SSR in the box but I'm not sure how to ground it given there are only two terminals on the element. Can anyone help me out?
 
Hi
Put an earth connection under the nut that holds the element to the pot. Probably need a silicone seal on the inside of the pot and a toothed washer on the outside so you get a good contact with the pot.

If both terminals end in the box can use one to hold box in place and the other have nut tighten direct onto pot for good connection.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Like this? Maybe I'd be better off using a junction box/small abs project box to house the terminals and earth it as shown then wire to a standard plug to allow me to disconnect the element easily from the main box?

Terminal earthing.jpg
 
Finished the wiring on my brauduino control box today. I am running a 220v chugger pump. I wired it directly to the PCB per directions. Is there anything else I need to do? Not sure what the jumpers on the board do.

Thanks
Jim
 
Jim, might be worth posting photos before you power it up.
 
Pretty sure the board jumpers select the control voltage to the onboard pump relay.

Had a first run today, need some technique adjustment but it seems to work.

braumiser.jpg
 
Steve - that looks fantastic! So satisfying to get it running and making beer, right?

Your controller looks really cool. Did you stick the fascia on the inside or the outside of your box?

Where did you get your pots from?
 
Not a complete success on the first run but it did make beer.

The fascia is stuck on the outside of the clear box lid, need to make up a hanger for it to stop it falling off the table. The malt pipe is just a BigW 19l and I scored the main vessel off a member here selling it about 6 months ago.
 
Sure, my biggest technique issue was not really understanding the volume calculators so I started with 28 litres and had to remove 2 litres to get 4.5kg of grain into the malt pipe. I now see I could use a lot less initial strike water than 28 litres so that shouldn't cause any further problems.

The second issue was the controller got stuck on a pump rest after mash out that I just gave up on after about 15 minutes and went back to manual mode to finish it off. I saw in Matho's thread that this was supposed to be fixed in version 2 but there was also someone saying just give it a reset and resume the operation. I did the reset after about 30 mins into the boil and it worked ok so hopefully it'll be good for next time or I'll just reset it.
 
Ok Lael, here are some pictures. It may be hard to see given the nest of wires, but see if it looks right. I just want confirmation on the 220v pump wiring. Jus to orient you to my build the 220v power in is the top right outlet, the middle is for the heating element, and the left is for the 220v pump.

Also 2 other questions
1) what is JU1 jumper on the board for?
2) I have read about 220v pump interference with the display. Is that addressed in the current PCB I have?

Thanks
Jim
ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1397320590.188758.jpgImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1397320608.350053.jpgImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1397320629.611899.jpg
 
Last image is clear and great :)
White is active, aqua is earth and brown is neutral? I can't tell how your electrical in should be (which pin is which), but the rest looks exactly how I've wired mine. Very neat and tidy - nice work!
 
Oh, yes - you have the board that should stop inter reference. The jumper - I would have to look it up in the manual Steve made. I'm not sure off hand.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top