Braumeister NEXTGEN Build
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Getting closer.
3mm top and bottom plates cos that was all to be found in the offcuts bin at M&S today... Shouldn't have any bending problems.
Realised I stuffed up on the pump drive and built the system for a 12V pump. Do you guys just run another SSR for a 240V pump using the 12V relay to switch?
3mm top and bottom plates cos that was all to be found in the offcuts bin at M&S today... Shouldn't have any bending problems.
Realised I stuffed up on the pump drive and built the system for a 12V pump. Do you guys just run another SSR for a 240V pump using the 12V relay to switch?
The perforated stainless offcut was 40 bucks for 400mm x 1000mm x 3mm so enough to make two plates with one stuff up. Plus a $1.50 cutting disc for every 500mm or so of cut with the small angle grinder. Definitely happy with the price on that one and they do have a few more thinner perf sections in the offcuts bin at M&S but most of the 2mm or above stuff wasn't wide enough.
The main is about 60l and the malt pipe is a Big W 19l and I got a second one for an extension if needed.
The main is about 60l and the malt pipe is a Big W 19l and I got a second one for an extension if needed.
There was some thicker stuff in up to 150mm wide but nothing else around 300mm wide. Lots of thinner stuff that could definitely be used with some bracing though. I'll have to check out the diamond cutoff discs, thought they were mainly used for concrete or stone grinding?
Yeah, normally. I was discussing the issues of cutting stainless with someone and he gave me the disc he had and told me to try it. Has worked well. Ymmv...
It was one bought from a fibreglass materials supply store, but I assume they are similar.
It was one bought from a fibreglass materials supply store, but I assume they are similar.
The clone 2.0 is proceeding well and all the mechanical and hydraulic part are almost completed
I have also performed a "wet run" and even if the set up tuning is not complete I'm quite satisfied and camlock is a great improvement in sealing. The threaded rod in the middle doesn't cause any issue. Even the filter with the strainer seems OK and reduce the pump flow turbulence without flow restriction. In my opinion could help spreading water without channeling
Next step is to set up the electronic part off course based on magi open ArdBir
http://makezine.com/2014/03/28/homebrewing-and-arduino-the-perfect-recipe/
Stay tuned
I have also performed a "wet run" and even if the set up tuning is not complete I'm quite satisfied and camlock is a great improvement in sealing. The threaded rod in the middle doesn't cause any issue. Even the filter with the strainer seems OK and reduce the pump flow turbulence without flow restriction. In my opinion could help spreading water without channeling
Next step is to set up the electronic part off course based on magi open ArdBir
http://makezine.com/2014/03/28/homebrewing-and-arduino-the-perfect-recipe/
Stay tuned
northernbrewer
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Hey lael. I thought you didn't need the SSR for the pump when running 240v. Isn't the board capable of switching the 240 because of the low amps or did I read the diagram wrong?
Sorry, yes - the SSR is for the heating element. The relay (on the board is for the pump). From memory just run the power (active) for the pump in and out of the pump terminals. Check the wiring diagrams in the manuals first though.
Right, no SSR for the pump then, thanks guys.
It's getting closer now, I'm just waiting on the pump and some plumbing and will still have to re-wire the box for a more suitable plug for the 240V pump but it's almost done.
It's getting closer now, I'm just waiting on the pump and some plumbing and will still have to re-wire the box for a more suitable plug for the 240V pump but it's almost done.
djar007
Well-Known Member
Looks great mate.
Here is a couple of pics of my brewday. Setup near perfect for me now. Here I am making a Belgian Dubblel. Got 50 litres into the fermenter. Which is a good size for my equipment. Just an average size brew.Could easily get another ten litres but dont really need to. Will have ample room for higher gravity beers. But just trying to perfect simpler styles at the moment. At least repeatability is easy enough and my largest variables are on fermentation and yeast health.
Here is a couple of pics of my brewday. Setup near perfect for me now. Here I am making a Belgian Dubblel. Got 50 litres into the fermenter. Which is a good size for my equipment. Just an average size brew.Could easily get another ten litres but dont really need to. Will have ample room for higher gravity beers. But just trying to perfect simpler styles at the moment. At least repeatability is easy enough and my largest variables are on fermentation and yeast health.
djar007
Well-Known Member
My pot sizes are 450wide 465deep large pot
350wide 420deep malt pipe.
The ring is reinforced with a stainless steel band. Sorry the pic is so blurry.
350wide 420deep malt pipe.
The ring is reinforced with a stainless steel band. Sorry the pic is so blurry.
djar - that looks great! from memory you have a 3v you brew on too? Which system do you prefer?
fruther to http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/57924-braumeister-nextgen-build/page-76#entry1159948 masters' post - I was looking back at my build thread and noticed this one: http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/72377-laels-braumiser-build/#entry1088618 where I DID actually squeeze in 10.9Kg of grain.... (checked beersmith, it was 10.89, not 10.8 even...) which is a fluidisation ratio of 2.6 according to my spreadsheet. The top plate was pushing up solidly against the reinforcing plates, though it held fine. I don't remember whether I ran the grain through once or twice through the mill - I think twice, and now I tend to just do it once through the mashmaster mini @ the fourth notch (1.4mm?) once so prob have less flour now. Efficiency was 80% in the mash compared to normal low 90%s...
so... I would prob stick with recommend a fluidisation ratio of 2.7/2.8 as a minimum target.
fruther to http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/57924-braumeister-nextgen-build/page-76#entry1159948 masters' post - I was looking back at my build thread and noticed this one: http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/72377-laels-braumiser-build/#entry1088618 where I DID actually squeeze in 10.9Kg of grain.... (checked beersmith, it was 10.89, not 10.8 even...) which is a fluidisation ratio of 2.6 according to my spreadsheet. The top plate was pushing up solidly against the reinforcing plates, though it held fine. I don't remember whether I ran the grain through once or twice through the mill - I think twice, and now I tend to just do it once through the mashmaster mini @ the fourth notch (1.4mm?) once so prob have less flour now. Efficiency was 80% in the mash compared to normal low 90%s...
so... I would prob stick with recommend a fluidisation ratio of 2.7/2.8 as a minimum target.
I am making progress but thinks just screwed up I soldered in the micro match ribbon cable connector and it looked great until I realized with it on I cannot plug in the USB connection. I am guessing it needs to go on the other side of the board. If someone could confirm that before I unsolder and try to reuse I would appreciate it.
Lael, thanks for the response on the elements, I found a supplier in the US but over $200. I am trying to see if I can get the elements that Blue Baggers used in his build to work. I an doing a modified cam lock malt pipe, like Arnie.
Thanks for all the help!
Lael, thanks for the response on the elements, I found a supplier in the US but over $200. I am trying to see if I can get the elements that Blue Baggers used in his build to work. I an doing a modified cam lock malt pipe, like Arnie.
Thanks for all the help!
livetoride
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You shouldnt need the ardurino board connected to the pcb/sheild for installing the software
