Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

[cspencer]

Just got a response from a supplier of SSR around the corner from work (fast response)

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Hi Clayton,
We have in stock. Price is $35 each plus GST for 50A/480V relay. For operation at 2400W/240V current draw is only 10A, no need for heatsink, just bolt to metallic surface.

Best Regards,

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I believe the SSR that is referred to is the first one on this page

http://www.practicalcontrol.com.au/ssr_modules.html

don't know if I would feel comfortable getting a cheap one from evilbay (via China/Hong Kong) and the one referred to the other day (Auberins 25A SSR ) from the USA with shipping was >$35US.

I can just pick this one up on the day I need it, is it way too much?

Clayton

As I'm not an electrician, I was thinking of building it all (not connect it to mains) in a IP rated box so the only cables coming out where the ones to the heating element (or have the element terminated in the box) and the two low voltage wires to control the SSR, is this ok? then go to an electrcian to get them to verify that is up to code and certify it all and actually do the final connections.

 

[Edak]

After 1 brew in mine ive already decided to change a few things. Managed to get some perforated stainless to make better filters in malt pipe. Also modifying top of my keggle and actually made a lifting device and a bracket kind of thing for the malt pipe to sit on.

Ill post some pics of keg tomorrow after i modify it but here are some of the handle and bracket that i made up and work today ( busy day for me ).

Nice perf. Where did you get it?

Checked there websit, it's not on it. Part number is h03725. $71.50 in gst.

Thanks Luke, I will give them a call.

I just got my metal punches from UK! Will be putting holes in it tomorrow as I am too busy going to Mountain Goat tonight

 

[seamad]

Fellas, have updated photos of



here edit.... stuffed up link stux has posted it below, thanks mate

Makes it a bit easier to follow the evolution
cheers
sean

 

[lukec]

Nice perf. Where did you get it?


Perforated stainless from Henlaws in Heidelberg ( one of my companies suppliers i called in a favour so no cost.

The handles are some threaded 10mm stainless rod i have left over ( 1x 2.7m length still going for free if anyones prepared to pick it up)

Thanks Luke, I will give them a call.

I just got my metal punches from UK! Will be putting holes in it tomorrow as I am too busy going to Mountain Goat tonight

 

[stux]

Fellas, have updated photos of

View attachment 54317

here http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...f=6&t=57924

Makes it a bit easier to follow the evolution
cheers
sean

I think you meant this URL?

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=908224

 

[matho]

Matho, I've done a fair bit of work on modelling BIAB extract efficiencies. You'll find that almost all your extract efficiency loss is due to extract being trapped by real grain absorption.

As the gravity goes up, the extact lost to the absorption will go up

Do you sparge? A good sparge should basically be able to get you back up to 90% efficiency.

always sparge, just noticed a loss in extract, I'll try and do another 'big' beer soon and check again. I have changed my sparging method, now I add about 2l at the mash out stage and then do a 'normal' sparge with the rest of the liquid to get to pre boil volume. My theory is if I reduce the gravity in the last stage of recirculation then there is less sugar left in the gaps in the grain when I remove it so there will be less sugars to extract in the sparge.

cheers steve

 

[dkaos]

How do you secure the plate on top of the grain bed Sean?

 

[stux]

always sparge, just noticed a loss in extract, I'll try and do another 'big' beer soon and check again. I have changed my sparging method, now I add about 2l at the mash out stage and then do a 'normal' sparge with the rest of the liquid to get to pre boil volume. My theory is if I reduce the gravity in the last stage of recirculation then there is less sugar left in the gaps in the grain when I remove it so there will be less sugars to extract in the sparge.

cheers steve

My theory is basically that the grain matrix acts as a whole load of little sponges, which hold the wort from the mash.

Lots of test have born it out to

So, the best way to do a simply sparge (for BIAB) is to do a dunk sparge where you drain the grain, then dunk the bag into another pot of water, rewet the grain and agitate. As you do this the sugars which are trapped in the grain matrix, which mysteriously are at the same OG as your mash will dilute out into you sparge water... then you drain and add the sparge.

The result of the sparge can then simply be modelled as a dilution of the wort trapped in the grain diluted with fresh water... and then a second absorption loss is applied

Unfortunatley, I'm not sure how you would apply this to a braumeister clone... fly sparging is the alternate... which I don't know how to model


Anyway, as you increase the grain, and decrease the L:G ratio, you will get a higher OG mash, and you will have a relatively higher percentage of the wort trapped in the grain matrix. That's the efficiency drop.

If you then were to dilute the absorbed wort with twice its volume in water you would be able to get 2/3rds of the loss back... although in reality you never quite get it perfectly diluted.

The ideal way to sparge a Braumeister would be to drain off the first runnings, add new sparge water, repump for a bit, and then re add the 1st runnings after draining the second runnings....

 

[seamad]

Clint,
Have a look at the picture .. top filter in place on the link ( use the one stux posted). Probably explains better than i can.
Basically the seal on the filter plates sits in the lip for the lid ( original bigw lid) just a little proud, then i drop on the blackdog lid and tighten the four wing nuts to lock it all down. Ive cut a bit of conduit and slotted one end as a tool to use on the wingnuts.

With reference to sparging, i let the pot drain and remove and sparge with 2 l water into a seperate pot, i find it usually at least ten points down on the main urn. I use this for starters after a boil or boil the hell out of it and add it back to the boil if i feel like it.

Cheers sean

 

[Edak]

I started the actual building of the unit today, I am impressed with how it is going.

See photos of the build...
Unit from the outside

Top-down view with malt pipe and lower mesh inside

Close up of installed malt pipe with no mesh (no seal yet)

Inside without the malt pipe installed

Lugs on the malt pipe for lifting (SS M10 bolts - is nice)

The bottom - no base installed yet, will have a (BIG) band that will run across center and will screw onto the centre rod (like mathos)

Things still to do:
* Seal malt pipe
* Get push down bar
* build the stand
* attach the electronics
* buy and fit the element
* fit the pump and hoses (I have the green pump from keg king)
* bend up the pick-up-bar (sounds corny eh!)

So I just need to organise a date with my mate to get the welding done for the base.

 

[matho]

looking good edak, it's going to look sweet

cheers steve

 

[lukec]

Looks great edak

 

[Edak]

looking good edak, it's going to look sweet

cheers steve

Looks great edak

Cheers guys,
I will have the pump fitted by the end of next week I think.

 

[lukec]

Here is another pic after a few modifications this morning. I found it to hard to get malt pipe in and out of the keggle so i hit it with grinder this morning.

Pretty happy with the results. The handles i made out of the extra stainless rod make it so simple to lift out the malt pipe and sit it for sparging.

 

[Yorg]

Hi folks,
Haven't tuned in to the forum for a while, but having read this thread I wish I'd shared this earlier, as some may have found the development path I took useful.

About 1.5 yr ago I made a setup along the braumeister principle, having talked with Arnie, who ended up taking a different path.
I didn't like the central column and clamping/screwing down of the 'malt pipe'- seemed more complicated than necessary. I've no prob with anyone going down that track, just sharing what I did:
I experimented with seals using silicon sealant, and finally hit on a 'design' that allowed the weight of the 'malt pipe' to be enough in-and-of itself to seal against the kettle.
Result:
- no clamping or screwing down mechanism needed
- no central rod needed.

Here is a quickly drawn diagram of the profile of the seal, without weight on it and then during use, whereby the silicon flares out to form a sealing surface.

Next is a picture of the bottom of the pot with the seal of the above profile along the cutout in the pot. (Bit manky, haven't brewed in a while and dragged it out of the shed.)

Next is a picture of the form I used to place against the pot to form the wet silicon - some ply.

I should say that I sit a false bottom above the cutout, and a BIAB grain bag is an alternative approach to the top filter plate.

 

[AlexL]

I think Alexl is using a brown pump on a full size system and it seems to work.

2400W element pulls 10 amps at 240V, if you drop the volts so does the current and power because the resistance stays the same.


cheers steve

That's right Steve, however it's not a quite full size system (12L malt pipe and 40L main vessel). I have found that the brown pump is strong enough to bend 1-1.5 mm stainless steel out of the way if the filter gets blocked, so no issues with pumping power.

I use the O-ring out of a fermenter to seal the malt pipe, it's secured using food grade silicone. I've had no issues with the silicone degrading due to the heat.

I've done 4 brews so far (first time AG) and it's all been a bit haphazard when it comes to calculating target gravities and required volumes. What's the best way of working out how much water must be used to sparge the system to hit the targets?

Cheers

Alex

 

[Edak]

...
I use the O-ring out of a fermenter to seal...

Cool idea. Will check the size of mine.

 

[AlexL]

Pictures of the O-ring seal can be found on page 12 of this thread:
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=834285

 

[Edak]

Pictures of the O-ring seal can be found on page 12 of this thread:
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=834285

How did you attach it to the bottom there? silicone? Have you also found that sparging with this unit is slow or difficult because you have holes on the bottom of your MP rather than the whole base cut off?

 

[seamad]

Edak,
My MP just has four sections and some holes cut out with a splatteer gaurd siliconed in ( picture in the blackdog thread) and it drains fine.
Dont get hung up on sparging, if you can fit the volume you want in your pot you dont really need to sparge at all. Braumeisters have to i think to get the required volume, same with some of the home made ones. Just wrapping up a brew now, lifted MP and let it drain for around 20 min, took it outside and placed a big bowl under it and sparged with 2.5 l to use as starter. Hit targets spot on in urn without adding any sparge product.
First running were1037, sparge runnings were 1028 so boiled them for a while to get to 1040 for the starter.
IMO sparging means mucking around, the whole point of these systems is to make it as simple as possible.
From memory you have a 50 litre pot, mine is a 40 l crown, i normally do 22 l batches so i get a keg and four or so bottles for my dad, could squeeze a couple more litres no probs, so unless you are trying for doubles you shouldnt have to sparge..
Cheers
sean