Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

[Edak]

Edak,
My MP just has four sections and some holes cut out with a splatteer gaurd siliconed in ( picture in the blackdog thread) and it drains fine.
Dont get hung up on sparging, if you can fit the volume you want in your pot you dont really need to sparge at all. Braumeisters have to i think to get the required volume, same with some of the home made ones. Just wrapping up a brew now, lifted MP and let it drain for around 20 min, took it outside and placed a big bowl under it and sparged with 2.5 l to use as starter. Hit targets spot on in urn without adding any sparge product.
First running were1037, sparge runnings were 1028 so boiled them for a while to get to 1040 for the starter.
IMO sparging means mucking around, the whole point of these systems is to make it as simple as possible.
From memory you have a 50 litre pot, mine is a 40 l crown, i normally do 22 l batches so i get a keg and four or so bottles for my dad, could squeeze a couple more litres no probs, so unless you are trying for doubles you shouldnt have to sparge..
Cheers
sean

Hi Sean,

My query is solely efficiency related. My MP is not really all that large and I want to ensure that I get a good efficiency so I get a full size batch. The more points in the pot the better I guess.

In the (probably very distant) future I would like the controller to be aware of the final volume desired, the volume in the tank and the boil-off rate (which it could establish within the first 5 minutes of the boil), then it could be able to adjust the total boil time automatically.

Over engineered? Probably... Fun to see if it works? Definitely!

 

[Edak]

Yesterday I went into the Chefland shop again and I found a different perforated plate. This was $8.95 and because of the rolled edges is quite tough.

It fits almost perfectly as the top filter plate on the bigW pot. The lower plate will need to be trimmed down.

Today I went to Keg King after work and bought the rest of the fittings for the pump, now I need to do some cutting to get the skin fittings to the right length.

I also found the PERFECT candidate for the lock-down bar. They are the old 2nd hand keg "spikes", stainless with a perfect radius for a 10mm hole through the middle. I bought a few of them in all different sizes and will probably use one as the pick up bar, since they were only $2 each!!!!! I am sure they will come in handy for other parts of the system, maybe I could even give the whole thing some nice feet You see one of the smallest ones in the back of the photo.

If you don't know what a keg spike is then Google Images It, it's the fourth image but the search is fun, you won't be disappointed... :0

 

[Wolfy]

Today I went to Keg King after work and bought the rest of the fittings for the pump, now I need to do some cutting to get the skin fittings to the right length.

I also found the PERFECT candidate for the lock-down bar. They are the old 2nd hand keg "spikes", stainless with a perfect radius for a 10mm hole through the middle. I bought a few of them in all different sizes and will probably use one as the pick up bar, since they were only $2 each!!!!! I am sure they will come in handy for other parts of the system, maybe I could even give the whole thing some nice feet You see one of the smallest ones in the back of the photo.

Keg Spears, the $2 ones are what they've pulled out of the kegs they're now selling cut and drilled. Most anyone who has converted kegs for their brew system will have some hanging around, I think mine are decorating the back yard.

That top-filter plate sure looks the goods.

 

[Edak]

Keg Spears, the $2 ones are what they've pulled out of the kegs they're now selling cut and drilled. Most anyone who has converted kegs for their brew system will have some hanging around, I think mine are decorating the back yard.

That top-filter plate sure looks the goods.

Yeah, SPEAR is the right word. I first searched for SPIKE and was impressed with my search result so I posted it as that.

They are the perfect tool for the job though.

Can't beat the price for the plates, if they need more holes then I can just drill some more. The major take-home point with these is that they are still relatively thin but the rolled edges give them strength.

 

[seamad]

Its surprising how much force is generated against the top plate. Initially i had the mesh just attached to the 2 mm ss blackdog plate. Toward the end of the mash i saw the plate bending imbetween the four wingnut lockdown points plus a few points where wort was squirting through the mesh. To counter that i added the reinforced filter plate, start the first half an hour of pumping at a slower flow rate and opening up then. No problems since. The march pumps probably have a higher output than the brown variety though.
Prior to having the MP locked down i found that as the filter clagged up the pressure increase caused wort to escape from the base seal, reducing circulation. I found that clarity wasnt as good with the gravity system.
cheers
sean

 

[Edak]

I am struggling to find a good seal for the malt pipe. I have not been able to find anything suitable for the task at all.

The closest that I can think of (untested) would be the original BM MP seal gasket. The hole in the base of my MP is about 270mm so it's roughly the same size as the actual BM malt pipe, although I would have to modify the gasket because my hole has a horizontal edge rather than a vertical edge.

I thought I might use some silicone tube like matho but The only suitable tube I can find (which is food grade and slightly squishy) is the standard 12mm ID tube from Keg King. This is huge and will probably be unsuitable due to the fact that it will trap a lot of liquid. I don't even know for sure whether this is a large concern but I would be happier not to have to deal with a loose seal.

AARGH! This thing is doing my head in! Any other suggestions?

EDIT: And by the way those spears were perfect, they look schmick when holding down the MP and the other will perform well as a handle for picking up the MP. I just need to bend some of that threaded rod but have no idea how I will do that with the tools that I own..

 

[seamad]

They were my biggest headache too, luckily the pressure cooker seal solved my lower seal perfectly.

For my top seal i have some pinch seal from clark rubber. Its epdm rubber, probably not rated as food safe, but I think the braumeister uses it ?. Such a small bit and the alcohol is probably more toxic anyway.

Looking at your picture, i reckon that wrapped @ the MP would seal well. I took my pot into clark rubber to get the correct size, it's only a couple of bucks per m.

Enquired about silicon pinch seal but not readily available anf would cost $$$$

Hope this helps
sean

 

[Edak]

They were my biggest headache too, luckily the pressure cooker seal solved my lower seal perfectly.

For my top seal i have some pinch seal from clark rubber. Its epdm rubber, probably not rated as food safe, but I think the braumeister uses it ?. Such a small bit and the alcohol is probably more toxic anyway.

Looking at your picture, i reckon that wrapped @ the MP would seal well. I took my pot into clark rubber to get the correct size, it's only a couple of bucks per m.

Enquired about silicon pinch seal but not readily available anf would cost $$$$

Hope this helps
sean

There are two seals?

I guess I will have to look at other appliances for a seal but I wouldn't have thought that removing a pressure cooker seal would be a cost effective solution because the cookers cost so much money to begin with...

Thanks for the tips.

EDIT: I just realised you can buy spare pressure cooker seals... I wonder where in Melb I could find a place which sells these

 

[matho]

edak I use the 3/8 stuff from craftbrewer, it seems to work well for me, just take your time with the stanley knife when cutting it down its length because it always wants to go off course.

cheers steve

 

[Edak]

edak I use the 3/8 stuff from craftbrewer, it seems to work well for me, just take your time with the stanley knife when cutting it down its length because it always wants to go off course.

cheers steve

Cheers.

I just found this site:
http://www.austplas.com.au/commercial.shtml

I wonder whether I can get something in a limited length for a good price

 

[ArnieW]

I am struggling to find a good seal for the malt pipe. I have not been able to find anything suitable for the task at all.

The closest that I can think of (untested) would be the original BM MP seal gasket. The hole in the base of my MP is about 270mm so it's roughly the same size as the actual BM malt pipe, although I would have to modify the gasket because my hole has a horizontal edge rather than a vertical edge.

I thought I might use some silicone tube like matho but The only suitable tube I can find (which is food grade and slightly squishy) is the standard 12mm ID tube from Keg King. This is huge and will probably be unsuitable due to the fact that it will trap a lot of liquid. I don't even know for sure whether this is a large concern but I would be happier not to have to deal with a loose seal.

AARGH! This thing is doing my head in! Any other suggestions?

EDIT: And by the way those spears were perfect, they look schmick when holding down the MP and the other will perform well as a handle for picking up the MP. I just need to bend some of that threaded rod but have no idea how I will do that with the tools that I own..

I found a simple solution to this issue although it may not be for everyone. Rather than cut a large opening at the base of the malt pipe, I've got a cam-lock female fitting on the base (underside) of my MP. The cam levers have been removed and the fitting mates to a male camlock in the kettle. I get a perfect seal every time, and I don't even need to apply any top-down pressure to keep things together, even under pressure from a March 809. I do need to let the liquid levels equalise a bit before lifting the pipe after mashing, because it is nearly impossible to lift a full mash pipe. All that means is turn the pump off and wait about 30 seconds.

I've been using this method for about 18 months now and wouldn't try to emulate the BrauMeister way of doing it.

For more info, check out my blog.

cheers, Arnie

 

[bonj]

I found a simple solution to this issue although it may not be for everyone. Rather than cut a large opening at the base of the malt pipe, I've got a cam-lock female fitting on the base (underside) of my MP. The cam levers have been removed and the fitting mates to a male camlock in the kettle. I get a perfect seal every time, and I don't even need to apply any top-down pressure to keep things together, even under pressure from a March 809. I do need to let the liquid levels equalise a bit before lifting the pipe after mashing, because it is nearly impossible to lift a full mash pipe. All that means is turn the pump off and wait about 30 seconds.

I've been using this method for about 18 months now and wouldn't try to emulate the BrauMeister way of doing it.

For more info, check out my blog.

cheers, Arnie

Matho sent me a link to your blog when he described your camlock fitting method. I plan to use this in my urn conversion because it allows me to keep the urn's centre mounted element. Thanks for the extra description, it has clarified the set up in my head.

 

[dkaos]

At first the camlock thing weirded me out, but now I think I'm going to give it a shot instead. Means the threaded rod and other bits and pieces I bought this morning on eBay are totally friggin useless though.

 

[matho]

hey Arnie,

I really like the camlock idea, very clever, when Bonj mentioned he had an urn with a centre element I thought of stealing your idea but using 2 camlocks 120 degrees apart and a nut and bolt as a 3rd leg to hold the pot above the element, attached is a quick sketch trying to explain the idea.

View attachment centre_element_maltpipe.pdf

A centre rod could be added to the malt pipe to hold the filters in place and then when the malt pipe is removed the urn would be free of any centre rod.
The pump layout is for a centre inlet pump but would have to be played around with to get the best layout for it but you get the idea.

From your experience is there anything that would stop this idea from working

cheers steve

 

[seamad]

How do you prevent channeling in the malt pipe with the camlock fitting ? Have thought about it on mine but can't resolve it.
A centre rod through the MP would still be a good idea to hold down the top plate,its a bugger to contain.

Not changing mine now anyway, haha, done four consecutive brews without a single mod !
Sean

 

[ArnieW]

hey Arnie,

I really like the camlock idea, very clever, when Bonj mentioned he had an urn with a centre element I thought of stealing your idea but using 2 camlocks 120 degrees apart and a nut and bolt as a 3rd leg to hold the pot above the element, attached is a quick sketch trying to explain the idea.

View attachment 54482

A centre rod could be added to the malt pipe to hold the filters in place and then when the malt pipe is removed the urn would be free of any centre rod.
The pump layout is for a centre inlet pump but would have to be played around with to get the best layout for it but you get the idea.

From your experience is there anything that would stop this idea from working

cheers steve

One of the things I like about the camlock is that the malt pipe is lifted off the bottom of the kettle, and it means it is not so squeezy getting heating elements fitted. I used an old urn (one as old as me <_< - from the sixties that is) with two elements already fitted. They sit quite low and work nicely underneath the malt pipe.

I don't see any reason why your idea shouldn't work. It is effectively what I'm doing except I have a single central fitting.

I don't have a threaded rod to tie down my top filter - rather I clip the 'lid' with filter onto the malt pipe using some aluminium. A picture tells it better than words so a recent blog entry shows what I mean (see link above).

 

[ArnieW]

How do you prevent channeling in the malt pipe with the camlock fitting ? Have thought about it on mine but can't resolve it.
A centre rod through the MP would still be a good idea to hold down the top plate,its a bugger to contain.

Not changing mine now anyway, haha, done four consecutive brews without a single mod !
Sean

Hi Sean,

the filter at the bottom of my malt pipe (a domed stainless false bottom) has a small plate fitted in the middle to force the pump flow around it. I haven't tried a mash with dyes or anything like that to try and see what happens re channeling. I probably do get some and it would account for my 5-10% lower efficiency than a BrauMeister. But it is not something I'm concerned about. I just make sure I produce enough wort and have repeatable results and it is all sweet. The benefit from a simple way to construct it outweighs a few percent IMHO.

I had trouble containing the top filter until I figured out the clips on the lid. Now it works really well. I can relate to 'consecutive brews without a single mod'! I think after 18 months I'm now at the point where it is all dialled in and I wouldn't change anything - that is until I 'improve' on whatever thing I fiddle with next

cheers, Arnie

 

[spog]

this reminds me of the guts of a tumble dryer,anyone reckon parts could be salvaged from a dryer to use for this application.....cheers........spog............uote name='Edak' date='May 7 2012, 07:26 PM' post='909181']
Yesterday I went into the Chefland shop again and I found a different perforated plate. This was $8.95 and because of the rolled edges is quite tough.

It fits almost perfectly as the top filter plate on the bigW pot. The lower plate will need to be trimmed down.

Today I went to Keg King after work and bought the rest of the fittings for the pump, now I need to do some cutting to get the skin fittings to the right length.

I also found the PERFECT candidate for the lock-down bar. They are the old 2nd hand keg "spikes", stainless with a perfect radius for a 10mm hole through the middle. I bought a few of them in all different sizes and will probably use one as the pick up bar, since they were only $2 each!!!!! I am sure they will come in handy for other parts of the system, maybe I could even give the whole thing some nice feet You see one of the smallest ones in the back of the photo.

If you don't know what a keg spike is then Google Images It, it's the fourth image but the search is fun, you won't be disappointed... :0
[/quote]

 

[Robbo2234]

I like the camlock idea,,, but I think I am missing somthing, how do you realese the locks? they would be inbetween the malt pipe and the kettle.

 

[keifer33]

You would remove the locking arms so gravity would hold them in place and create the seal.