Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

[Edak]

OOOh, I like the idea of auto hop additions.

Usually when the boil starts (before hop additions) doesn't one adjust the boil time depending on the projected evaporation rate and the volume of water used to rinse/sparge the grain?

When it is time to boil, given the above statement, wouldn't it be suitable to adjust either the boil time or enter a value for the current volume into the control unit? This way you will be adding the hops at the right time in order to get down to a specific volume.

Or am I just crazy?

 

[dkaos]

So Matho after viewing your videos and going through the thread a few times, there's just one thing that is getting me. How are you lifting out the 19L pot before commencing the boil? I notice in the official BM videos they use that short handle type thing.

If it's possible, could you record a short video of each portion of your brew day to give a total understanding of your system? Even with a bit of commentary! I know it's asking a lot since you've already provided so much, but it would just be clearer for me and hopefully other potential braumeiser builders.

Cheers,

Clint

 

[Edak]

He only has a 8-9Lt pot inside. I have the 19L pot and will make up something similar to the pick up device used in the original braumeister.

And I also discovered this website, who have the threaded rod, all stainless screws and washers and plenty of other fixings at extraordinary prices!

http://www.boltsnutsscrewsonline.com

No affiliation, but I just bought lots of stuff from there. Will report back when I receive it.

Instead of that nice big stainless curved bar which is used to drain the malt pipe, I thought that I might put a couple of edges at the top of my pot. I find it hard to describe, but if you were to cut two slots near the top of the pot and insert a flat tab in each. This would from the top look like a couple of squared off edges in the big O made by the pot. The malt pipe will have bolts that stick out of the sides similarly to the original braumeister, these will rest on the shelves. It is essentially integrating the resting bar into the big pot.

I told you it's hard to explain!
EDIT:
Something like this:

 

[matho]

So Matho after viewing your videos and going through the thread a few times, there's just one thing that is getting me. How are you lifting out the 19L pot before commencing the boil? I notice in the official BM videos they use that short handle type thing.

If it's possible, could you record a short video of each portion of your brew day to give a total understanding of your system? Even with a bit of commentary! I know it's asking a lot since you've already provided so much, but it would just be clearer for me and hopefully other potential braumeiser builders.

Cheers,

Clint

as edak has pointed out I am only using a 8l pot but I remove it the same way a the braumeister I put some bolts on the side of the malt pipe and with some spare SS threaded rod and a blow toruch I bent up a hook to remove it Ill post some pictures when I get home tonight. As for a video Ill see what I can do.

 

[dkaos]

He only has a 8-9Lt pot inside. I have the 19L pot and will make up something similar to the pick up device used in the original braumeister.

And I also discovered this website, who have the threaded rod, all stainless screws and washers and plenty of other fixings at extraordinary prices!

http://www.boltsnutsscrewsonline.com

No affiliation, but I just bought lots of stuff from there. Will report back when I receive it.

Instead of that nice big stainless curved bar which is used to drain the malt pipe, I thought that I might put a couple of edges at the top of my pot. I find it hard to describe, but if you were to cut two slots near the top of the pot and insert a flat tab in each. This would from the top look like a couple of squared off edges in the big O made by the pot. The malt pipe will have bolts that stick out of the sides similarly to the original braumeister, these will rest on the shelves. It is essentially integrating the resting bar into the big pot.

I told you it's hard to explain!
EDIT:
Something like this:

Hey Edak,
When I first read it I had an idea of what you were trying to explain, but it wasn't like how you have drawn it. That's a great idea. So you are just using stainless nuts and bolts as the posts?

To stop the pot from rolling do you flatten the bolt at all? Or do you rely on the small gap between the large pot and malt pipe for it to just roll 20-30 degrees and not tip over.

I think this thread needs a lot more photo contribution expanding what matho and others have already done. When I start my build I'll be sure to pay it forward and will be doing some videos as well.

Cheers,

Clint

 

[Edak]

Hey Edak,
When I first read it I had an idea of what you were trying to explain, but it wasn't like how you have drawn it. That's a great idea. So you are just using stainless nuts and bolts as the posts?

To stop the pot from rolling do you flatten the bolt at all? Or do you rely on the small gap between the large pot and malt pipe for it to just roll 20-30 degrees and not tip over.

I think this thread needs a lot more photo contribution expanding what matho and others have already done. When I start my build I'll be sure to pay it forward and will be doing some videos as well.

Cheers,

Clint

Hi Clint,

Yes, the bolts are all that is used. They will be cut to length so that the inner malt pipe fits snugly into the large pot. The weight of the grain and malt pipe holds it in position on the plates, just as it I believe does on the metal bracket with the original braumeister.

I like the idea of having more images, will provide more when I continue my build (I only get some time on the weekends to do this).

 

[lukec]

Hey all,
I've added pump to mine and basically finished except for the filters and element which hopefully will be ready friday.
I'll post so pics when I get home tonit so you can see how I've mounted pump and also how the malt pipe sits above wort level for sparging.

 

[dkaos]

Thanks Luke, looking forward to it!

Got my brown pump today, now it's time to start getting a pot to fit inside my keg.

 

[Robbo2234]

Clint,

are you installing a malt pipe into a converted beer keg?
if so what are you doing about the curved base there would only be a small area that the seal touches?

 

[lukec]

As of this afternoon this is where im at. Water tested and no leaks. Just need element and away we go.

 

[matho]

As of this afternoon this is where im at. Water tested and no leaks. Just need element and away we go.

wow thats awesome good job

 

[dkaos]

Clint,

are you installing a malt pipe into a converted beer keg?
if so what are you doing about the curved base there would only be a small area that the seal touches?

Yeah that is going to be interesting. I am actually waiting to see what Luke does so I can do what he has done or modify it for my purpose. I can only assume that there will be enough downward pressure from the wingnut to keep it in place.

Let me explain with this diagram. I'm off sick today so I thought I would have a go at drawing something out to help with my build and possibly contribute to the thread.



Say I leave a 30mm lip inside the malt pipe for the silicon hose to form around as the seal, I think that should be enough.

As of this afternoon this is where im at. Water tested and no leaks. Just need element and away we go.

Oh hell yeah! That is definitely what I'll be doing to my keg. Cutting those insertion holes out is brilliant Luke. Is the march pump mounted on the threaded rod?

If it's not too much to ask, could I get you to post a pic of how you cut the bottom of the pot out and sealed it too for the keg braumeiser?

Cheers,

Clint

 

[lukec]

Yeah that is going to be interesting. I am actually waiting to see what Luke does so I can do what he has done or modify it for my purpose. I can only assume that there will be enough downward pressure from the wingnut to keep it in place.

Let me explain with this diagram. I'm off sick today so I thought I would have a go at drawing something out to help with my build and possibly contribute to the thread.

View attachment 53878

Say I leave a 30mm lip inside the malt pipe for the silicon hose to form around as the seal, I think that should be enough.





Oh hell yeah! That is definitely what I'll be doing to my keg. Cutting those insertion holes out is brilliant Luke. Is the march pump mounted on the threaded rod?

If it's not too much to ask, could I get you to post a pic of how you cut the bottom of the pot out and sealed it too for the keg braumeiser?

Cheers,

Clint

Hey Clint, I'll post some more pics tonight or tomorrow night. Just picked up my element so hopefully it will go in tonight ( depending on 2 kids behaving). $71.50 inc get for 2400w element. Also I used a sealing tape thing that us plumbers use which sticks to the bottom of the pot to create the seal for malt pipe. Heat proof and food safe.

 

[dkaos]

Hey Clint, I'll post some more pics tonight or tomorrow night. Just picked up my element so hopefully it will go in tonight ( depending on 2 kids behaving). $71.50 inc get for 2400w element. Also I used a sealing tape thing that us plumbers use which sticks to the bottom of the pot to create the seal for malt pipe. Heat proof and food safe.

Thanks mate, really can't wait to check it out!

Cheers,

Clint

 

[Edak]

As of this afternoon this is where im at. Water tested and no leaks. Just need element and away we go.

Totally Impressed....

I got my bolts and bits today from that Bolts Nuts Screws Online place, damn that was fast and very good service. (No affiliation) I would note that they have no security on their webpage and thus I paid with direct deposit. All came neatly packed and is top quality stuff. So damn cheap. I remind you that I have no affiliation.


Also got some stuff from Craftbrewer, it's been a good day...

 

[Edak]

Since I have now got most of the parts to start assembling, what are you drilling the stainless with? I only have a hand corded drill. All fittings are 1/2BSP. Would it be better to use a holesaw or step bit? KEGKING have tungsten holesaw bits.

Still have to get an element though.

 

[dkaos]

Hey Edak,
I have both. With a good holesaw you wont need the step bit. To get a good tungsten carbide hole saw you're looking at about $30 plus the arbor which is a similar price. I get the tungsten hole saws from Bunnings, brand is Sutton Tools.

Then you need cutting fluid as well. Just take it nice and slow, for stainless you're looking at 235 RPM. If you go tooo fast you'll experience work hardening of the pot and will shred your holesaw or step drill.

Good luck!

Clint

 

[Feldon]

Since I have now got most of the parts to start assembling, what are you drilling the stainless with? I only have a hand corded drill. All fittings are 1/2BSP. Would it be better to use a holesaw or step bit? KEGKING have tungsten holesaw bits.

Still have to get an element though.

Just my 2c re putting holes in pots...

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=788914

 

[Edak]

Just my 2c re putting holes in pots...

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=788914

I like the punch idea, especially since it makes such clean holes. I will still have to drill some things ie. the bolts into the malt pipe and the element holes are god knows what size.

 

[Edak]

Don't know why I can't edit the previous comment, but I found these on eBay very cheap.
QMax Sheet Metal Punch
Only about $20 for the 7/8" one.

I bought both 10mm and 7/8" punches to do all parts of the job. Lets hope they do the job

Just have to wait for delivery, which will probably take a while from the UK but should be worth it for the simplicity of punching a hole and the fact that the punches only cost me $38 total including delivery.