Boiling Home Brew

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Hey all,

Does boiling your home brew at any time speed up the process? I have been told that boiling the bottles for 5 minutes after capping greatly decreases the time between bottling and drinking.

Advice anyone?
 
smack whoever told you that and write their name down to remember not to listen to them anymore!
 
Yep, well said Tangent!

Boiling your capped bottles will dramatically INCREASE the time before they are drinkable - as in they will NEVER be drinkable! Boiling will kill the yeast in the bottle and carbonation will simply never happen.
 
G'day,

I'd say that boiling the bottles for 5 minutes after capping greatly decreases the time between bottling and throwing the beer out.

If you heat the bottles after bottling, you will kill the yeast and have flat beer.

So, boiling the brew at any time after the yeast is added, will kill the yeast, which actually turns wort into beer.

Not sure where U got this idea, but it seems remarkably wrong to me. :blink:

Anyone else want to chip in here?

Seth out :p
 
Well the guy who gave me the advice is a TOOL ... so thats why i thought i would ask before doing it :)

Thankyou for saving me lotsa time and $$$
 
Way back in my "young and stupid" brewing days, I thought I would try rehydrating my yeast before adding it to the fermenter. I read that you needed to add the yeast to "boiled water". Needless to say, my logic took a momentary coffee break and I added the yeast to ~100 degree water. Not too much activity in the airlock after pitching that one :p . The good thing though, is that you never make the same mistake twice...
 
Off topic but relevant to a point;

A bloke walks into his doctor's office with 3rd degree burns on his feet.

Doctor asks;

"What's happened"?

Man says;

"I was hungry and decided to opena can of baked beans. Followed the instuctions on the can."

Instructions said... STAND IN HOT WATER. :huh:

Don't put your beer bottles in hot water. You may kill some bugs but you'll have pretty flat beer. :ph34r:

Warren -
 
"boiling the bottles for 5 minutes after capping"

surely that isn't what he meant? Has mankind really taken the turn for the worse?

And warrenlw63... GOLD! :lol:
 
BrewinginNewcastle said:
Hey all,

Does boiling your home brew at any time speed up the process? I have been told that boiling the bottles for 5 minutes after capping greatly decreases the time between bottling and drinking.

Advice anyone?
[post="92326"][/post]​

With such dreadful advise and the potential for exploding bottles due to temps, you'd be well within ur rights to punch his head in.

IMO anyway.
 
yes sounds like some dillusional idea about pasteurisation but mostly just a dillusional idea full stop.
I remember reading back at the turn of the last century one of thomas's coopers sons tried submerging the bottles ready for delievery in a bath of hot water to try his hand at pasturising of course all that happened was the corks flew out the top and beer went everywhere<<<before the invention of crown seals or at least the common use of them.

That addvice is about as good as tickets to cliff richard all they are good for is a bin liner.


Jayse
 
Just for the fun of it, I'm going to take a different tactic...

I think your friend was probably talking about pasteurisation, where you bring the temp of the beer very quickly up to about 60C and then cool quickly. As you'll note on the website posted by Jazzafish, pasteurisation can help kill off bacteria (and yeast) in beer, and so typically extends its shelf life. Thats why the big boys do it. To my knowledge, it won't make a beer drinkable quicker, although its possible.

I worry a little about the info on the website Jazzafish posted, because first it says beer is pasteurised after its bottled, but then says CO2 is added after pasteurisation. This can only happen if the beer is put into the bottles and not capped until after the CO2 injection. The website also says later on

"Why is yeast good for you?
It contains Vit B + thiamine. Hence Micro brewed beer & ale does not cause liver problems."

I can feel a law suit coming on :)

But back to the subject...

I would say that if you try boiling sealed bottles of beer, you may well find shards of glass impregnated in your house and body. But maybe you can get away with heating them without the cap sealed to pasteurise. Note, 60C is more common, not boiling. But as I said, this will probably just improve shelf life, rather than get your beer to a drinkable state quicker.

...and as everyone has mentioned, if you want to naturally carbonate your beer, boiling your bottles will kill off your yeast and it will never carbonate.

Berp.
 
In a commercial brewery beer for kegging is pasteurised before it is packaged. Cans & bottles are pasteurised after the containers are filled, then they are capped/sealed in a blanket of CO2.
 
Brewing in Newcastle
Does this guy actually brew, and have you tasted his beer? I am betting that the answer to one or both of those is "no", so it was quite a smart move on your behalf to ask here before trying it. If you want to have your bottles carbonate quickly, keep em in a spot that will be around 25C constant for a week or so. If you are just doing kits and stuff, it should be pretty well carbonated in a week or less, if not tasting very green. As far as boiling capped bottles goes, I am not going to suggest you try it, however, when I make wort for starters, I fill about 500mL into a longneck (or quite a few of them, as I am lazy), stick em in a large pot in hot water about an inch above the wort level, then whack the burner on full, let em boil for 20-30 mins, and then turn it off, hey presto, I have starters ready whenever I need em. Sometimes I get one or two that has gotten infected, but most keep quite well for weeks (never last longer than that before I put the to their intended use). I also use sweet wort for priming, so when I siphon into the fermenter, and before adding yeast, I fill up a few longnecks to 500mL with the wort and reapeat the process detailed above, keep em in a cupboard or something till they are ready to go into priming. I usually only get about 400-450mL per 500mL because of break material at the bottom, but it works for me. Knock on wood, I have never had a bottle explode, but it doesnt mean it cant happen I guess. I wouldnt ever try em more than 2/3 full though, but that is my experience only. And I wouldnt boil femented beer, for reasons well highlighted above.
All the best
Trent
 
Coolum
Just read your post. If they pastuerize em after bottling/canning, they must carbonate beforehand? Or is it added after pastueristation as Berapnopod said (I havent red the link yet), and if it is after, wouldnt that negate the pastuerisation? (Silly question, I am sure, but I figure I may aswell ask)
All the best
T
 
Maybe your mate is getting confused with making tomato sauce and putting it in beer bottles. I know a few italian familes who do this. They boil the bottles full of sauce in a 44 gallon drum.
No don't boil beer!
cheers
Darren
 
Trent said:
Coolum
Just read your post. If they pastuerize em after bottling/canning, they must carbonate beforehand? Or is it added after pastueristation as Berapnopod said (I havent red the link yet), and if it is after, wouldnt that negate the pastuerisation? (Silly question, I am sure, but I figure I may aswell ask)
All the best
T
[post="92467"][/post]​

Correct. Carbonation happens at bright beer stage before packaging.

Cheers
Peter
 
Quote: In a commercial brewery beer for kegging is pasteurised before it is packaged. Cans & bottles are pasteurised after the containers are filled, then they are capped/sealed in a blanket of CO2.

---------------------------

SO that explains why drinking bottled aussie megaswill make me think of softdrink al the time - forced Co2 gassing with large and rough gassing. Give me bottle conditioned homebrew anyday !
 
Hi T.D,
I made the same mistake with my PET bottles. The instructions said rinse in 'boiled water' so i did. Needless to say I only did one bottle,
it now holds about 600 ml instead of 750 ml as it shrunk instantly.
Needless to say don't put PET bottles in dishwashers.
Why do I use PET bottles, because I'm too lazy to find 15 dozen glass bottles, and they seem to work great, only a single leaker in 18 months of brewing.
 

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