There we go again... I hope this time is alright!
GRAIN AND YEAST
~80% 2150g Pilsner
~20% 550g Wheat Malt
SRM 3.44; EBC 6.78
According to White Labs the WLP565 Belgian Saison Yeast attenuation is 65-75%, but according to you @earle
, @Lord Raja Goomba I
, I've made this table:
FG 1.000 -> ABV 6.56% Attenuation:100%
FG 1.005 -> ABV 5.91% Attenuation:90%
FG 1.007 -> ABV 5.64% Attenuation:85%
FG 1.010 -> ABV 5.25% Attenuation:79%
FG 1.012 -> ABV 4.99% Attenuation:75%
I will stick to the 1.050 OG, I think 5-6% ABV it's a good range for this one.
60' 13g East Kent Goldings: 16.29IBU
15' 14g East Kent Goldings: 8.70IBU
0' @80ºC for 30' 30g Tettnanger: 0.57IBU
I've dimished the bitterness from 30 to 25IBU (lower ABV) and added a big very-low-alpha-acid-Tettnanger addition at 0' for flavour/aroma as suggested by manticle.
Jef Van der Steen would be proud of me
P.S. New doubt: Should I dry hop as well? how much? 3g/L? 6g/L? I only have 30g of tettnanger left... If I dry hop should I use the east kent goldings for the boil and the tettnanger for the dry hopping or should I mix them? :S
Using a spreadsheet, get calcium to the minimum (or preferred) level for the beer you want to make. In this case, I'd target 50 - 100 ppm. Select chloride or sulphate or a balance depending on whether you want to accentuate malt, hop or both. Chloride for malt, sulphate for hop.
Then assess whether the mash pH will be right. If it is too high, add acid until it is correct (to the mash or to the strike water but I prefer the mash). In a pale beer like this with Sydney water, it won't be too low but that adjustment is another kettle of fish.
I used the EZ_water_calculator_3.0.2 (http://www.ezwatercalculator.com/
-Gypsum: 1,3 to mash, 0,7 to sparge
-Calc. Chloride: 0,6g to mash, 0,3g to sparge
-Lactic Acid 88%: 3.5ml in total, 22drops to mash, 13 drops to sparge
-Ca: 52ppm (recommended 50-150) <- to minimum!
-Cl: 54ppm (recommended 0-250)
-S04: 68ppm (recommended 50-350)
-Clorate/sulfate ratio: 0,80 -> balanced, a little on the "enhance bitterness"
-Mash PH 5.3 (room-temp)
so far so good...
In addition to the above, add some of your chosen calcium salt/s to the boil and if sparging, add some of your chosen acid to the sparge water.
I do "BIAB sparge", basically, I take the bag out of THE kettle after the mash out, I put it over a steaming pot (it has a big-hole-strainer/colander) and transfer the sparge water from another pot over the bag with a hose and gravity, then I put the resultant "sparge wort" back into the kettle for boiling. So I say I only use one big pot, but it's not true, I use 3 of them!
Sorry manticle, but I don't understand. How should I use the salts and acid then?
O1- like the spreadsheet says: to mash and sparge water, both acid and salts.
O2- salts into the boil, acid into the sparge
O3- like O1 + additional salts into the boil <- how much?! the rest until 100ppm in the same proportion Cl/SO4 ?
If you have a pH meter or even some decent strips, you can check the pH and make sure your calculator/spreadsheet is on the money. Definitely when learning, you should actually measure the mash pH rather than rely on software which is a guide only. If you do have a good meter, measure wort pH in the kettle and again at the end. To get really detail obsessed, you can also measure finished beer pH. Keep it simple this time and just get mash pH right - all things being equal, the rest should fall into place.
I was thinking about buying a pH meter but the cheap ones are a waste and the good ones are too expensive and need so much care! I don't know if it's something I can justify at this stage. So I bought "a 100 PH 4.5 - 9.0 strips" from ebay and I think I wasted the 7$ they cost me. I tried them with my saliva and I think I must be very sick, the reading was around 6.5
Anyway, I'll try them with this one to see at least if I'm doing it more or less ok. Where can I find good ph strips? I don't want to have a discussion about pH meters here in this post, I will look into it if you tell me that's the way to go.