Best brewday ever, dissappointing result

[wbosher]

Kiwi jokes aside (yeah, I asked for it ), thanks for all the replies guys. I will be having a chat to the shop about their mill, but I suspect someone will probably beat me to it.

 

[Nick JD]

How did it turn out Nick?

Not sure if it's fermented yet. Got given a long boil and had the OG upped that way - but wasn't a comp playa - so they sent out some properly milled grain.

Free beer for the club!

 

[Spiesy]

The quality of buying pre-milled grain is one of the many reasons why I'm in the middle of setting up my own mill.

 

[QldKev]

The quality of buying pre-milled grain is one of the many reasons why I'm in the middle of setting up my own mill.

Have you mentioned the mill adjustment issue to the LHBS who is currently milling the grain? Maybe with time the adjustment has moved and they haven't realised and would happily re-adjust it.

 

[wbosher]

I did think about getting a mill myself, but as I only brew about once every three or four weeks, I didn't think it was really worth it the expense.

The LHBS had just modified their mill, new motor and/or rollers, so that could have something to do with it. I have to say that I have never had a bad crush from them in the past, so hopefully it's just a one off. Having said that, I might look into getting a cheap Corona style mill, just in case this happens again.

 

[sponge]

OG: 1.033
IBU: 33
IBU/SG: 0.922

IBU/SG = 1?

 

[jc64]

IBU/SG = 1?

Remember, he is in NZ, things don't always equal there what they do elsewhere.

 

[sponge]

Pi = 3.1417 in NZ

 

[wbosher]

:lol:

It's not IBU divided by SG, it's a ratio in Beersmith...probably should have made that clear. I'm not sure exactly how it's calculated but a ratio of .9 would indicate that it's quite bitter, but not overly so. There is a chart somewhere on the interwebs but I can seem to find it at the moment, it gives an idea of what ratio is appropriate for any particular style of beer. Obviously each individual perceives bitterness differently, but it's a guideline.

There are a few threads on AHB about it, here is one

 

[wbosher]

Pi = 3.1417 in NZ

Pi = Steak and mushroom please.

 

[jc64]

No one seems to have mentioned you could have extended the boil, taken a bit less volume and increased your SG a few points. If you knew you were out preboil and had no dme on hand that would have been my course of action. My refractometer is so handy to have on brewday for this reason.

Also this beer will probably turn out to one of your favourites and you will try to remake it but won't be able to replicate it!

 

[bum]

:lol:

It's not IBU divided by SG, it's a ratio in Beersmith

A ratio is either the quotient of two numbers (here you propose the quotient is 1) or a representation of such a divison process (usually as A:B where : is synonymous with /).

But, hey, feel free to not only "teach" people about its use but also correct those who question you.

 

[wbosher]

I've already said I don't know how it's calculated, simply that I understand it's use according to what I've read.

I failed high school maths many, many years ago.

 

[wbosher]

jc64 - unfortinately, I didn't know the preboil was out until much later, when it had cooled enough to take a hydrometer reading.

 

[jc64]

jc64 - unfortinately, I didn't know the preboil was out until much later, when it had cooled enough to take a hydrometer reading.

bugger, that's the best thing about having a refractometer, you know straight away something is up the ****. So to speak.

If you cool the preboil down quick in a freezer it still gives you a chance to add DME or extend your boil, ideas for your next batch.

 

[pcmfisher]

I remember reading somewhere, probably here, that if the IBU is close to the OG, it will be fairly balanced. If that's the case, then this should be ok.

Yeah, I've read that as well.
I reckon its the shittiest rule of thumb ever.

 

[bum]

I usually only read people throwing that ratio around for AIPAs and feel like it is useful in that context.

 

[wbosher]

I have to admit, I've never really paid much attention to it, but I guess it could be a rough target to aim for when designing a new recipe. I usually use the sliders in Beersmith for any partlicular style, I guess more experienced brewers would just have a feel for it.

I found this, it's similar to the chart I mentioned earlier.

Alt-.70
Kolsch- .53
Barley Wine- .94
Ordinary bitter- 1.28
Special Bitter- .73
Extra Special Bitter- .73
Pale Ale- .91
IPA- 1.10
Bock- .34
Helles- .36
Doppel- .33
Eisbock- .26
Mild Brown- .64
English Brown- .56
American Brown- .95
Old Ale- .58
Bohemian Pils- .75-.85
German Pils- .68-.80
Dortmunder Export- .40-.60
Munich Helles- .38-.48
Brown porter- .55-.72
Robust Porter- .61-.93
Scottish Ale .3-.5
Octoberfest- .42-.50
Wheat- .14-.34
Classic Stout- .8-1.20
Foreign Stout- .9
Sweet Stout- .3-.5
Imperial Stout- .9

 

[JDW81]

jc64 - unfortinately, I didn't know the preboil was out until much later, when it had cooled enough to take a hydrometer reading.

Why can't you take a hydro reading after your mash? Just use the beersmith tool to adjust your gravity for temp?

 

[mondestrunken]

I had a similar situation of low efficiency (it ended up around 1035 while I was expecting/hoping for 1045-1050. Mine was a bitzer brew using up old grain I had lying around. I added 450g dextrose (also lying around) and 150g treacle (been in the pantry for 5 years or so) after fermentation was basically done. I added the sugar and it went apeshit. I'm bottling it tonight.

Good luck.

Edit: This was in reply to the first page, rather than the OG/BU ratio discussion. I didn't realise there was three pages of this post.

 

[wbosher]

Why can't you take a hydro reading after your mash? Just use the beersmith tool to adjust your gravity for temp?

I probably could, just a little nervous putting my glass hydromoter in 78C+, not sure if it can handle that. If it can, I'd love to know.

I put the sample in the fridge to cool, but I forgot about it until after I'd taken the OG sample from the fermenter. That's my inexperience shining through I guess, but I've never had this problem before so got a little complacent probably. Just expected everything to be ok, even though I noticed before even mashing that the grains looked a little suspect. Won't make that mistake again.

 

[JDW81]

I probably could, just a little nervous putting my glass hydromoter in 78C+, not sure if it can handle that. If it can, I'd love to know.

I do this all the time and the only broken hydrometer I've had is when I've dropped it. Others may have a different experience but it works for me. I usually just drop it in the kettle after the sparge.

 

[wbosher]

Ok, thanks for that. I might give it a go next time. Do you pre-warm it first, or just dump it in?

 

[Nick JD]

I used to warm the hydro under the hot tap first before popping it in the kettle. Then I spent $29 on a refractometer and now I look like a scientist doing SERIOUS BEER STUFF.

 

[Yob]

$28? Unlike you to pay more than you need to Nick.. Pretty sure I got mine for $18

Great bits of kit, much better than messing about with temp conversions etc... More blingerer too

 

[wbosher]

Refractometers are about $60 -70 here. The wife would have a fit after all the money I've already speant on brewing. :lol:

Might just have to persevere with the hydrometer for a little while longer...the time wil come though.

 

[paulmclaren11]

Where do you get refractometres for $28 or less?

I have seen them for $40 plus here in Perth..

 

[bum]

There's tonnes of cheapies on the electronic bay.

 

[Nick JD]

$28? Unlike you to pay more than you need to Nick..

I save my money to spend on better things than beer making stuff. Also, you can make beer with $30 worth of equipment, I heard once.

 

[paulmclaren11]

Thanks Bum will check it out.