Assistance In Forming A Recipie

[tumi2]

Hi all

I have not brewed a beer in nearly 6 months and realised i have almost run out of homebrew so i need to get a recipe sorted.

The situation is i have grown some fresh hops over summer which is currently in the freezer.

I have 2 types:
- Chinook 65Gr of heads
- POR 50gr of heads

I want to do a simple beer that i can use probably the Chinook and be able to taste smell the chinook. I understand it is not usually a flavour or aroma hopps but the aim here is to be able to tell the effect of 65gr of chinook will have on the beer. Its all about learning for me and less about making a perfect style beer. IN saying that though i do want something drinkable. I am not adverse to bittering with a different hops but i do want to be able to identify the chinook or couldi even use both the hops together.

I prefer ales as i cant really lager yet.

Any ideas on a recipe that i could use that would best demonstrate the Chinook flowers?

Thanks

 

[drsmurto]

Not sure why you think chinook isn't any good for flavour and aroma, that's all i use it for! Combiined with cascade for a Little Creatures type pale ale its lovely.

That said, the chinook i grew last year was nothing like US grown chinook. It was very similar to the NZ hop, B Saaz (Motueka).

I made a simple pale ale using newport for bittering and then 30g of chinook at 15 and flameout in a 20L batch. From memory it was 70% ale, 20% vienna or munich, some amber, wheat and crystal. American Ale 2 yeast.

I have more than 800g of chinook to play with this year so will be belting out batch after batch of this. :chug:

 

[chappo1970]

Not sure why you think chinook isn't any good for flavour and aroma, that's all i use it for! Combiined with cascade for a Little Creatures type pale ale its lovely.

Yep agree with the good Dr here.

I'm really not to sure what type of recipe are you after? K&K, K&B, Extract, Partial or AG? Bit more info?

 

[tumi2]

Yep agree with the good Dr here.

I'm really not to sure what type of recipe are you after? K&K, K&B, Extract, Partial or AG? Bit more info?

Im open to any style really but i do AG using BIAB method.

I guess i just want to use my home grown hops ina simple AG brew so i can learn how much i should use and taste the hops i have added.

 

[A3k]

is the weight quoted dried or wet?

 

[tumi2]

is the weight quoted dried or wet?

Weight quoted is dried

 

[Maple]

Totally agree with Dr S. Chinook is a great aromatic hop. to get the feel of what these hops are like, and given that chinook is a fairly high AA hop, you want a base beer that has enough of a malt backbone to carry it, and what the good doctor has prescribed is sensational (just missing the Rye component, but more on that another time).

Also you go with a separate bittering hop, one you either know really well (to be able to differentiate), or go with a really neutral bittering hop such as Magnum. I would also use the same selection criteria for the yeast - either know it, or use neutral (US05/1056). As AMII yeast is a brilliant yeast with really great properties, it may influence your perception of just what the contribution the chinook flowers are giving you, in the flavour department.

perhaps use these hops at 20, 15 and 8 minute additions, and adjust accordingly if you are no-chilling.

 

[Bribie G]

If you like lagers then a single malt single hop Corona style Cerveza goes great with Chinook - 4000 of pale pilsener malt, 1000 dried weight rice cooked to a mush and mashed with the malt. 20g Chinook 90 mins and s-189 dried Swiss Lager yeast fermented at 15 degrees for 10 days, 10 days of lagering and keg or bottle.

The difference will be that your beer will actually taste like beer, and will let the Chinook shine through :icon_cheers:
Edit: I did mine on US-05 but S-189 is better if you have the time to spare. And even with just one addition the hop aroma and flavour still came through in good balance. My son in law Corona swiller raved about it.

 

[DKS]

If you like lagers then a single malt single hop Corona style Cerveza goes great with Chinook - 4000 of pale pilsener malt, 1000 dried weight rice cooked to a mush and mashed with the malt. 20g Chinook 90 mins and s-189 dried Swiss Lager yeast fermented at 15 degrees for 10 days, 10 days of lagering and keg or bottle.

The difference will be that your beer will actually taste like beer, and will let the Chinook shine through :icon_cheers:
Edit: I did mine on US-05 but S-189 is better if you have the time to spare. And even with just one addition the hop aroma and flavour still came through in good balance. My son in law Corona swiller raved about it.

I've tried BribieG's recipe as above. Very good and easy to do. Single POR hop, with excellent results. You may need a little more of the POR ( 9%AA) about say, 25g. Looking for 25+ or- IBU over the Chinook (13%AA) version, 20g
Why not do one of each hop? They will both be good drinkers.
Last one I only used 500 rice but tossed in 250 carapils and used 1056. Didn't last long. :icon_cheers:
Daz

 

[drsmurto]

Totally agree with Dr S. Chinook is a great aromatic hop. to get the feel of what these hops are like, and given that chinook is a fairly high AA hop, you want a base beer that has enough of a malt backbone to carry it, and what the good doctor has prescribed is sensational (just missing the Rye component, but more on that another time).

Also you go with a separate bittering hop, one you either know really well (to be able to differentiate), or go with a really neutral bittering hop such as Magnum. I would also use the same selection criteria for the yeast - either know it, or use neutral (US05/1056). As AMII yeast is a brilliant yeast with really great properties, it may influence your perception of just what the contribution the chinook flowers are giving you, in the flavour department.

perhaps use these hops at 20, 15 and 8 minute additions, and adjust accordingly if you are no-chilling.

:lol:

I didnt develop my rye addiction till after last years hop harvest beer!

I have >800g of dried chinook flowers vac packed in the freezer so will definitely repeat this brew a few times with rye.

In fact, my last 3 golden ales now have been rye. :chug:

 

[tumi2]

Thanks for all the tips.

how does this sound fora 30lt batch with an aim for 26 litres int eh no chill cube

4.3kg Pale malt (65%)
1.46 Munich (22%)
.45KG amber (7%)
.45KG (7%)

I have not added Rye as i am not familar with using ti and dont want the color to get any darker. Would prefer a lighter color pale Ale.

15GR Cascade at 60mins (10IBU)
15Gr Home grown Chinook at 60mins (13IBU guess at best assuming a AA of 10%)
20gr Home grown Chinook at 20mins (9IBU guess at best assuming a AA of 10%)
30Gr Home grown Chinook at 50mins (5IBU guess at best assuming a AA of 10%)

Calafornian Ale Yeast WLP051 if i can get it other wise US05

Estimated OG = 1049
Estimated FG = 1013
IBU = 37
Estimated Color = 7.

i will use all 65gr of my Chinook so hopefully be able to taste it and get a feel for using flowers in the future.

As for the POR. Will get to that at ta later date.

 

[drsmurto]

Personally, i wouldn't use your homegrown hops for bittering.

Get the maximum out of them by using them only for flavour and aroma.

Use a neutral bittering hop.

7% amber is too much in my opinion, 5% at most. Its a potent grain.

What the last 7%? I assume a crystal of some sort?

 

[tumi2]

Personally, i wouldn't use your homegrown hops for bittering.

Get the maximum out of them by using them only for flavour and aroma.

Use a neutral bittering hop.

7% amber is too much in my opinion, 5% at most. Its a potent grain.

What the last 7%? I assume a crystal of some sort?

Thanks, i have 7% wheat for the last. I thought Crystal would make the beer to dark in color. Will drop the Amber also and just increase my late edition of Chinook and bitter with the left over cascade i still have in the freezer.

 

[tumi2]

So i brewed this beer on Friday, pitched a 1 ltr starter on Sunday and all is going well now. Tasted the wort and the bittering was quite strong and chinook flavour probably not coming through as much as i would have liked but i could taste it. looking forward to getting this one in the bottle. The color was exactly what i was looking for and the maltiness was also nice. Interesting to see how it ferments now using WLP001 as it usually accentuates the hops. i hope it accentuates the Chinook and leaves the bittering alone.

I prepared my starter a different way than i usually do. I do not have a stir plate (still waiting for a NSW bulk buy) so i made 2 litres of wort with LDME at 100gr to 1 litre of water. Boiled this let it cool to about 20 degress and placed 1.5 litres in a large 7 litre glassware i have. I aerated this consistently for about 3 hours using my fish pump and then let it sit overnight, i think it had already fermetned out by the morning. i then added another 500ml of wort and aerated usgin the fish pump again for another 15 or so hours continuously. By then end i had a good size starter that seemed to quite healthy with no foul smells that i have had before from starters.

My question is that since i dont have a stir plate and instead used constant aeration, Is this suitable replacement?. When a stirplate is used is the purpose to aerate or only to keep the yeast in floatation and the wort constantly on the move? Is constant aearation of the starter a good or bad thing?

 

[Screwtop]

So i brewed this beer on Friday, pitched a 1 ltr starter on Sunday and all is going well now. Tasted the wort and the bittering was quite strong and chinook flavour probably not coming through as much as i would have liked but i could taste it. looking forward to getting this one in the bottle. The color was exactly what i was looking for and the maltiness was also nice. Interesting to see how it ferments now using WLP001 as it usually accentuates the hops. i hope it accentuates the Chinook and leaves the bittering alone.

I prepared my starter a different way than i usually do. I do not have a stir plate (still waiting for a NSW bulk buy) so i made 2 litres of wort with LDME at 100gr to 1 litre of water. Boiled this let it cool to about 20 degress and placed 1.5 litres in a large 7 litre glassware i have. I aerated this consistently for about 3 hours using my fish pump and then let it sit overnight, i think it had already fermetned out by the morning. i then added another 500ml of wort and aerated usgin the fish pump again for another 15 or so hours continuously. By then end i had a good size starter that seemed to quite healthy with no foul smells that i have had before from starters.

My question is that since i dont have a stir plate and instead used constant aeration, Is this suitable replacement?. When a stirplate is used is the purpose to aerate or only to keep the yeast in floatation and the wort constantly on the move? Is constant aearation of the starter a good or bad thing?

All been typed before but..........here goes. Did you want to grow yeast (multiply cells) or proof the yeast or make a suitable starter to pitch to your wort. Adding a small amount of yeast to a couple of litres of wort is growing/multiplying the colony size. Pitching an amount of yeast suitable for 19L at up to 1.055 such as a smack pack to 1.5L of wort will just ferment it out quickly with next to no cell growth (multiplication). Pitching it to a couple of litres and adding this at high krausen is both a way of proofing and adding an active starter to your beer, which is what I think you are trying to achieve. Pitching to 1.5 l of wort will proof the yeast (test if it is ok), but a starter is.................an actively fermenting volume of wort containing an appropriate amount of cells to ferment the volume and gravity of wort it is being pitched into.

Lots of confusion surrounding starters, yeast farming and proofing.

Screwy

 

[DKS]

All been typed before but..........here goes. Did you want to grow yeast (multiply cells) or proof the yeast or make a suitable starter to pitch to your wort. Adding a small amount of yeast to a couple of litres of wort is growing/multiplying the colony size. Pitching an amount of yeast suitable for 19L at up to 1.055 such as a smack pack to 1.5L of wort will just ferment it out quickly with next to no cell growth (multiplication). Pitching it to a couple of litres and adding this at high krausen is both a way of proofing and adding an active starter to your beer, which is what I think you are trying to achieve. Pitching to 1.5 l of wort will proof the yeast (test if it is ok), but a starter is.................an actively fermenting volume of wort containing an appropriate amount of cells to ferment the volume and gravity of wort it is being pitched into.

Lots of confusion surrounding starters, yeast farming and proofing.

Screwy

Well that clears up some of it for me at least. The "up to 1.055 in 19lts "is a wake up.Doing a few brews well over that lately. Thanks Screwy. :icon_cheers:
Daz