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Angle Grinder For 'simplest Kettle Cutting Jig'

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real_beer

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Having 5 rubber coated kegs to convert I decided to build this great little jig http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/simplest-k...ing-jig-143048/ rather than using the usual freehand method. I quickly ran into a few problems others might benefit knowing about.

1). My 100mm grinder didn't have a thread for the 90 position so I had to make something similar to this
Jig.jpg
It works okay but I wanted the simple elegance of the 'Simplest Jig'

2). The rubber coated kegs have a flat piece on the top that gets in the way of the grinders head. Chiselling away lots of the rubber helps but then exposes a SS flat plate that sets the cutting depth limit. I think I could have just got buy if I'd fitted a new cutting disc but I was all out & with 5 kegs to cut I decided to look for a bigger grinder.

After the usual googling etc. I decided a 125mm unit would be a good size without being to big. I also wanted the 3 position handle option for using with the 'Simplest Jig'. After various disappointments trying to find one locally at a good price (its hard to find them with the third 90 handle position), I suddenly thought about checking out Bunning's opposition 'Masters'. I'd driven past a few but never called in. I found this beauty http://www.masters.com.au/product/90002827...-grinder-ag125# for $45, I couldn't believe my good fortune. I was quite impressed with the store & will use them as my first choice from now on.

So anyone looking for a cheap grinder with the 90 position for this type of project I think you'd be pleased.

This is also a great must have gadget for all the DIY's. http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...mp;#entry984272

Cheers :icon_cheers:
 

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yardy

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no piss take intended here, why don't you mark a line and just cut it by hand ?

when those microdiscs explode, and they all do, you'll be a lot better equipped to deal with it if it you're hanging onto it rather than having it cable tied to that jig.
 

kezza

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I just used a 5" grinder and use the guard as a guide around the top
 

scottc1178

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I just used a 5" grinder and use the guard as a guide around the top
same, and it worked well. I kinda scored it around first so i had a line to follow, and then went around a second time nice and slow following the line i had just made, cleaned it up with a couple of files and its all good. I was surprised how well it turned out as I don't fancy myself as being a gun with a grinder.
 

Spoonta

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buy the time you **** around making the jig you could have marked out and cut them all
 

scottc1178

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buy the time you **** around making the jig you could have marked out and cut them all
agreed.

when you look up online for instructions on how to make a keggle, people carry on about how difficult kegs are to cut or drill through, and make it sound a lot more difficult than it is, and that the only way is with a plasma cutter or some such bullshit. Like anything its easy if you use the right tools. Just use a grinder with a cutting disc designed for cutting stainless steel, and for drilling your tap holes etc. use a good quality (sutton or similar) hole saw on a LOW SPEED. you'll only run into trouble if you use wrong or crap quality tools, or try to drill thru at a million miles an hour.

my 2c.
 

real_beer

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no piss take intended here, why don't you mark a line and just cut it by hand ?

when those microdiscs explode, and they all do, you'll be a lot better equipped to deal with it if it you're hanging onto it rather than having it cable tied to that jig.
I usually cut them by hand but with 12mm of rubber to cut through & black rubber dust spraying everywhere the jig with the pressure pipe & hose clamp was the best way to go.

cheers
 

real_beer

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buy the time you **** around making the jig you could have marked out and cut them all
Because all the keg is black its virtually impossible to see any detail of where your cutting as it all blends together. A white line doesn't help because all the rubber dust goes everywhere. Also my post was about rubber coated kegs as opposed to the usual ss which I have always done freehand.
 

yardy

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I usually cut them by hand but with 12mm of rubber to cut through.. snip
fair enough mate but you're asking for trouble cutting rubber with a microdisc, if it heats, sticks and jams it'll blow to bits, I've had one embed itself into my welding helmet.

no doubt you've finished the job now but if it were me i would've used a hacksaw blade and a chisel or heavy duty scraper to get the rubber off first, just my 2 bobs :icon_cheers:
 

real_beer

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fair enough mate but you're asking for trouble cutting rubber with a microdisc, if it heats, sticks and jams it'll blow to bits, I've had one embed itself into my welding helmet.

no doubt you've finished the job now but if it were me i would've used a hacksaw blade and a chisel or heavy duty scraper to get the rubber off first, just my 2 bobs :icon_cheers:
I must admit after doing the kegs I wouldn't recommend others do it this way either. I wanted a jig so I could the job slowly & keep the grinder square I now realise most people want them for the opposite fast & quick result which would as you say result in disaster. I used 5 discs to do 3 kegs, replacing them as they started to show signs of fraying. Needless to say I had full face mask, leather welding gloves, heavy duty work shirt & pants & steel capped boots. The disc cut through the rubber beautifully without sticking or jamming, I put this down to the age of the rubber as the kegs had been sitting unused at the brewery for over 10 years. I'm certainly glad the jobs over as I'd been thinking about it for a while, I think it worked for me because I took the slow & steady path using previous experience converting normal kegs.

However having said all that, I must now summarise & say 'PEOPLE DON'T DO WHAT I DID, IT'S NOT SAFE!'

:icon_cheers:
 

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