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Ahb Wiki: The No-chiller Method / Using A Cube

Discussion in 'AHB Resources (Wiki Topics)' started by Cortez The Killer, 18/6/08.

 

  1. argon

    firmitas, utilitas, venustas

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    Posted 2/9/10
    Well thought Id report in on a swollen cube :angry: first one ever first infection in an AG brew thatd make 1 out of about 30+ batches

    Not sure what happened. Luckily I do double batches into 2 cubes. Cube 1 is fine no infection the second has swollen up.

    Pitched the first cube about a week before the second so hopefully its not a case of not knowing the first was infected.

    I pitched the second one anyway just to see what happens. Its a munich lager so Id say Ill notice any off flavours fairly easily. When I opened the cube it had a small ring of gelatinized clearish/whitish gunk on the inside of the lid and opening.

    I did the usual method of filling and squeezing as much air as possible, sealing up, then tipping on the side to pasteurize the lid. Same method Ive always been using. I also starsan the cube and lid shake it all around and leave it for at least 30 mins. Open the cube up just at flame out, pour out sanitizer, shake as mush foam out as possible, then drain the kettle into it so not sure where it picked up the infection.

    Only thing I can think of is that the lid wasnt sealed properly... although it didnt leak and I had a hard time getting it off at pitching.

    Anyhoo see what happens to this batch maybe next time Ill be adding boiling water to the cube first shake and bake, then starsan, then drain to cube. Ill probably bleach the cube and use some other sanitizers in the meantime before using it again or might just be a good enough excuse for new cube.
     
  2. cdbrown

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    Posted 2/9/10
    When I cleaned out some cubes recently before using them (hadn't been used for a long time) I noticed that the bung including the thread had some nasties on it. No I make sure to remove the bung and give it a good clean before use. Just an idea.
     
  3. argon

    firmitas, utilitas, venustas

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    Posted 2/9/10
    My cubes are sealed and don't have bungs... which i reckon is a good thing... but does bring up a thought regarding the lid gasket and thread... i reckon i should probably give the thread a scrub and remove the gasket and give it a good clean before next use.
     
  4. Fourstar

    doG reeB

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    Posted 2/9/10

    the good thing about the willo cubes is the bung is not drilled so there is no point fro infection.

    also make sure your lid seals correctly and you rinse any wort away from the lid. i have only had one bad cubed wort. it wasnt infected internally but the thread on the cube was covered in black mould. i wasnt going to risk it and tipped it.
     
  5. argon

    firmitas, utilitas, venustas

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    Posted 2/9/10

    Lid seemed on fine enough... sat on it's side for 12 hours or so... no leaks... always give the outside of the cube a bit of clean and spray some sanitiser on it too.

    probably wasted a couple of good packets of swiss lager yeast on this batch.. but worth a shot anyway...smells ok in the fermenter now, but that could be a bad thing considering lager fermentation. Looks like i'll all but flame sanitse the brewery after this.
     
  6. insane_rosenberg

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    Posted 1/10/10
    Thanks Cortez, awesome Wiki.

    I did my first all-grain (BIAB) on the weekend. Then essentially did a no-chill into my 25L glass Demijohn. Luckily no shattering/cracks! However I don't think the few litres of (oxygen containing) headspace during no-chill is a good idea. Espescially seeing it foamed out of the airlock yesterday (3 days into fermentation)! Hopefully it's not infected!

    Cleaning the semi fermented bre out of my demijohn basket wasn't much fun either... But the brew is now transferred into my coopers plastic fermenter.

    Next time I think I'll use my trusty 20L plastic jerry can.

    Thanks again!
     
  7. ///

    Well-Known Member

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    Posted 2/10/10
    what do you mean chilling your beer? are you ment to drink it cold? i find that if i leave it in the back of my car for a few months i get way more drunker.
     
  8. beers

    Well-Known Member

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    Posted 2/10/10
    sounds like it's working for you ;)

    is that a jab at no chilling coming from someone who used to make & sell fresh wort kits?
     
  9. ///

    Well-Known Member

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    Posted 3/10/10
    Sadly someone has been playing with my account ... look away ...

    Scotty
     
  10. TBird

    Well-Known Member

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    Posted 9/12/10
    Rays Outdoors has 25 litre cubes on special for $10
     
  11. Mikedub

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    Posted 16/12/10
    this excellent tutorial on no chill cubing says

    'After flameout and whirlpooling, and with appropriate hosing, drain the still near boiling wort into a plastic cube, trying to avoiding splashing'.

    also 'Pour the contents of the cube into a fermenter, splashing as much as possible to assist in aeration and pitch yeast as you would normally'

    wondering the scientific reason why there is a need to aerate into the fermenter but avoided into the cube?
     
  12. manticle

    Standing up for the Aussie Bottler

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    Posted 16/12/10
    Aerating the wort when hot or the beer once fermented can lead to oxidation and staling. During the short aerobic growth cycle of the yeast, the yeast will benefit from the presence of oxygen in the wort.

    Look up 'hot side aeration', 'beer oxidation' and 'oxygenation of wort'
     
  13. Mikedub

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    Posted 16/12/10
    ta Manticle, will do,


    ....and how can I get some more of those little brown kegs that sit under my avatar, having just the one is making me feel insecure :unsure:
     
  14. MarkBastard

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    Posted 16/12/10
    Spam post and ye shall receive.
     
  15. Mikedub

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    Posted 16/12/10
    O.
     
  16. Mikedub

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    Posted 16/12/10
    K.
     
  17. Bizier

    Petite Mutant

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    Posted 16/12/10
    I will add my most recent NC experience.

    I have been trying NC for hoppy beers with unsatisfactury results. I find that if I add the hops to the cube (in IPA quantities anyway) I get an unpleasant astringency, I am assuming from the long contact time. Plus there is no real hop aroma without dry hopping. I am also trying to avoid dry hopping, as I don't like racking, and if I dry hop with yeast, I have been getting a strawberry ester thing that I hate.

    Last brew, I did a 40 min boil addition, then a 2 min boil addition, then whirlpooled, and waited (lid on kettle) for wort temp to get to 80 degrees, then added more hops (pellets) and stirred for a while to ensure they received contact, then whirpooled again (probably should have skipped the first one), waited a few mins, and transferred to cubes, and tried to ensure they were in an area that they would cool reasonably soon after paseurising for a bit.

    I know other people have done similar things, but the idea was to balance between pasteurisation and hop oil preservation.

    Pitched next evening. 2 days in, fermenting beer tastes noticeably 'brighter' which is very nice. The aroma is all malt, and no hops, which is disappointing, but the hop flavour is much better. I am definitely happier with this result from the early tasting.

    For the record, it took the kettle about 1hr and 5mins to drop 20 degrees, outside, lid on, ambient temp around 27 degrees with constant breeze.
     
  18. TBird

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    Posted 17/12/10
    Any thoughts on using yeast nutrients with no chill? Does yeast nutrient still work with no chill given the yeast is pitched some time after the boil?

    Cheers
     
  19. felten

    Homebrew Conjecturist

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    Posted 17/12/10
    yes. it won't just disappear
     
  20. HoppingMad

    Ein Stein

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    Posted 10/1/11
    Reported.
     

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