A Guide To All-grain Brewing In A Bag

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Just about to mash-out (second batch today), so need to keep it short. My and my wife plan to move on to a sailboat ASAP, which will likely still be 2 years+. We'll basically sail the South Pacific and beyond until we get tired of it. I'm aiming to get a smaller/cheaper, yet off-shore worthy boat to carry us around.

Now obviously, we're going to need to brew quality beer, and BIAB takes up the least space out of any real brewing method (that I'm aware of). Space is the main concern, especially considering the boat might be around 32' ish.

I'll likely have a BIAB vessel and store as much other gear as possible in it when it's not in use. Temperature tolerant yeast will also be required.

I heard a story through a mate of mine about a guy brewing on a boat already. It sounded like he was doing BIAB or similar. His beer was good enough that he could trade it for diesel or other supplies in some remote South Pacific locations. The only beers they had in these places were boring lagers, so his exotic stuff was highly sought after :)
 
Oh Man,
BIABOAB sounds like a real challenge! What are you thinking for power? LPG? brewing with electricity while in dock? Batteries and wind generators? I've got vague dreams of one day using a Fresnel mirror to cut down on electricity requirements, but I wouldn't want to try it without backup heat sources.
--
Mesa.
 
Most boats already carry at least a couple of LPG tanks for the stove, etc. I'd likely take an electric BIAB kettle, and use whatever was available. I don't think most boat battery banks could handle a 2400w element(or two) running for very long.
 
Most boats already carry at least a couple of LPG tanks for the stove, etc. I'd likely take an electric BIAB kettle, and use whatever was available. I don't think most boat battery banks could handle a 2400w element(or two) running for very long.
For all the trouble I would just load up with some quality commercial brews, rather than shipping tons of grain, gas and brewing equipement around the Pacific ocean.

Steve
 
I vote for a paint stirrer - just like a really big/long potato masher. Does a fantastic job of stirring things around in the really quite thin BiaB wort. Bunnings - cheap.
 
I'm still using my one that came with the kit from the LHBS.
A plastic paddle with holes in the end.

Does the job, although if I was after a new one I would most likely go the paint stirrer.
 
Thanks. Paint stirrer it is. No shineyness for me :( .
I was thinking of doing 30L batches and no-chilling in my coopers fermenter, than transfering to my 60L fermenter. Any tricks for blocking the hole in the top of the coopers fermenter?
Thanks again.
 
Thanks. Paint stirrer it is. No shineyness for me :( .
I was thinking of doing 30L batches and no-chilling in my coopers fermenter, than transfering to my 60L fermenter. Any tricks for blocking the hole in the top of the coopers fermenter?
Thanks again.
Have a look at this dry air lock.Pistol Patch thinks this is the best thing since sliced bread.Fills your hole and works a treat.
GB
 

Thats what first came to my mind, but he's looking at doing it like a NC so using an airlock would draw air into it.

Blu-tack? :D
I'd just find something to place over it and maybe tape it down with some gaffa tape, ahhh gaffa tape is there nothing it can't do.
 
Life's 2 rules: If it moves and isn't spose to, GAFFA! If it doesn't move and is spose to WD40!

Anyways, The airlock does bubble backwards BUT does not draw in water.... If its an over night job a fermenter and airlock is an easy solution, obviously - you have the gear!

Each to their own, just my 2c!
 
1st - I'd reccommend a proper NC cube over doing it the fermentor - but I know there are lots who would disagree. So thats just the "my opinion" bit.

If you are going to NC in a way that lets air contact the wort - then I think you need to invest in a way to keep that air sterile. A bung with a sanitary filter jammed in it so that the air coming in has no bacteria.

If you want to block it up - well, you are pulling a vaccum, so maybe just a small circle of plastic, say cut out from a softdrink bottle lid - a smear of food grade lube (or vasaline in a pinch) and put it on top of the fermentor hole with grommet fitted. As the air inside contracts, its going to suck the little disc down harder and harder and seal it up better and better.... maybe.

TB
 
Has anyone done a BIAB decoction mash? Im thinking of trying it but wondering how it would work, the whole removing a third of the mash water for example, id need a syphon or something? I dont have a tap on my kettle (yet)
 
Reviled - Ive only seen a decoction done where mash is taken out (grains and water) not just the water/wort. But of course with a bag this makes things difficult if you cant open and access it during mashing... <_<
 
Reviled - Ive only seen a decoction done where mash is taken out (grains and water) not just the water/wort. But of course with a bag this makes things difficult if you cant open and access it during mashing... <_<

So you end up taking out say a third of the water and the grains?!?! :huh: And then boiling it, grains and all??? Huh?

I can open the bag during mashing, I guess I could use a jug or something...
 
Hey Guys, I'm just about to start my first all grain with biab and I am going to be using "Ross's Schwartzbier (Lager Copy)" recipe from the BIAB_Checklist___Black_Beer.xls and using the instructions from the BIABBooklet_1_.pdf.

I have a few questions about the instructions in the BIABBooklet_1_.pdf-

1. Should you heat the water up to the 66 degrees before adding the grains? Or should you add the grains before you get to the 66 degrees and then heat it up to 66 degrees?

2. After you have added and agitated the grains and stabilised the temperate at 66 degrees should you then stop agitating (stiring) the grains for the rest of the mash or should you agitate the grains once every so often (every 1/2 hour or so)? Can you do any harm stiring the grains in the mash? Should you stir the grains before taking the bag out of the boiler?

3. Is a whirfloc tablet essential? That is the only thing from the recipe I don't have (couldn't find it on craftbrewer.com.au website where I bought the grains).

Cheers
 
Hey mate,

I had the exact same question/s prior to my first BIAB!

BTW - Only 6 batches in...

I found that pre-heat water and then adding grains was the more common... but it may be just the people I asked!

I heat to a few degrees above mash temp and then add grain.

Usually get my water to about 68-70%, depending on brew, and then add grain. Reason is your grain will absorb some heat.. depending on how much grain and where you wanna mash at!

As far as I can tell its an ongoing query of BIAB'ers and I don't think it really has an answer to which way is best.

I agitate as soon as I have added the grain, then 10 minutes apart.... for the rest of the mash. It is such a thin mash, if your bag is full size, then I may be going excessive but too much is better than not enough in my eyes!!

From what I have read here on AHB, and particularly of recent, Whirfloc is AS everything a mixed opinion additive. I add mine at 10 minutes but apparently it is not critical BUT does do its thing if added.....

Anyway, maybe not much info but I hope it helps!

$0.02

Cocko!
 

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