40a Ssr

[Crusty]

I have a 40A SSR from auberins & you need a 12V supply for this to work, is that correct?
I am switching a 2400w element on & off through the SSR via a PID.
Also wiring the element so that I can manually turn it on after starting re-circulation & switching on the PID.
I will be firing the element in the rims tube as soon as the wort return is clear & the PID will then take over.

 

[Darkman]

I have a 40A SSR from auberins & you need a 12V supply for this to work, is that correct?
I am switching a 2400w element on & off through the SSR via a PID.
Also wiring the element so that I can manually turn it on after starting re-circulation & switching on the PID.
I will be firing the element in the rims tube as soon as the wort return is clear & the PID will then take over.

You're PID will supply the 12v switching to the SSR but you need to get a PID designed to switch an SSR. You can get a PID that switches 240v but I don't think there rated to switch anywhere near 2400W.

 

[cdbrown]

The PID will provide the power to switch it on and off.

Look here for my wiring - http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=669240
I can isolate the element from the PID, which is slightly different from what you want to do. Why don't you want the PID to have control from the beginning? If you switch on the element without the PID controlling it, it'll stay on. You're better off letting the PID control it and press pause on the program until your happy the system is stable and ready for the mash schedule.

 

[Crusty]

The PID will provide the power to switch it on and off.

Look here for my wiring - http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=669240
I can isolate the element from the PID, which is slightly different from what you want to do. Why don't you want the PID to have control from the beginning? If you switch on the element without the PID controlling it, it'll stay on. You're better off letting the PID control it and press pause on the program until your happy the system is stable and ready for the mash schedule.

Isolating the element is exactly what I want to do. I have the , ramp, soak, kiln, ssr output PID that will be used to control my 2400w element in my rims tube. The isolation switch on my control box was designed so that I can switch my pump on, recirculate the mash water, switch on the PID to measure the return temp then fire the element when the return is clear. Unlike a herms system, I want clarity before switching on the element.
If I don't need a 12V supply to work the SSR, how are you isolating the element from your PID.
I need some wiring help, urgently.
Cheers

 

[Darkman]

Isolating the element is exactly what I want to do. I have the , ramp, soak, kiln, ssr output PID that will be used to control my 2400w element in my rims tube. The isolation switch on my control box was designed so that I can switch my pump on, recirculate the mash water, switch on the PID to measure the return temp then fire the element when the return is clear. Unlike a herms system, I want clarity before switching on the element.
If I don't need a 12V supply to work the SSR, how are you isolating the element from your PID.
I need some wiring help, urgently.
Cheers

Just install a switch between the 240v wires running to you're SSR to issolate the power. Your PID will still be swiching the SSR on and off but if you have no power running to your ssr then no power will reach the element also.

 

[Crusty]

Just install a switch between the 240v wires running to you're SSR to issolate the power. Your PID will still be swiching the SSR on and off but if you have no power running to your ssr then no power will reach the element also.

So it's possible to run the PID whilst having the element off then manually switching on the element & letting the PID take over to reach target temps.

 

[MaltyHops]

Isolating the element is exactly what I want to do. I have the , ramp, soak, kiln, ssr output PID that will be used to control my 2400w element in my rims tube. The isolation switch on my control box was designed so that I can switch my pump on, recirculate the mash water, switch on the PID to measure the return temp then fire the element when the return is clear. Unlike a herms system, I want clarity before switching on the element.
If I don't need a 12V supply to work the SSR, how are you isolating the element from your PID.
I need some wiring help, urgently.
Cheers

I have a 4-gang IP56 clipsal switch in my control box and have wired it so
that one switch [h] (say) is a cutoff switch for a heat element and there is
one ACTIVE connection from a ciruit breaker to switch [m] which is connected
to [h]. Another ACTIVE connection is connected to the input of a 25a SSR, the
output of which is also connected to [h] - so [m]-->[h]<--SSR and then
[h]-->element

This allows the heater to be driven by the PID/SSR or manually by [m] and also
a quick cutoff of the element in either case.

 

[MaltyHops]

So it's possible to run the PID whilst having the element off then manually
switching on the element & letting the PID take over to reach target temps.

This is one way I can use my system - set PID to manual mode with 0% heat
output just to monitor the temprature of the kettle and manually operating the
element. I could also switch the PID off altogether and put a timer switch to start
heating water at a certain time but would have to be sure to be around when it
starts boiling.

 

[booargy]

I have a 10amp switch on the power to the element. this allows the element to be isolated with the PID on. You could also switch the output from the PID so you could use a smaller switch. if you switch the PID output keep in mind there maybe still voltage on the element when it is switched off.

 

[Darkman]

You can put the switch between the element and SSR therefore you have the ability to isolate the power to the element. If your PID switches the SSR on then the power will only get as far as the switch if turned off. When the wort has cleared and you would like to apply power to the element simply turn on the switch and the PID/SSR will take over.

 

[cdbrown]

I have my panel wired so that I have a main power switch which turns on the PID. This PID supplies the 12v to switch the SSR. On the 240v side of the SSR I have another switch so that I can turn the element off when I don't want anything heated, or turn it on when I want the PID to control.

I see that I linked to the wrong post in the thread - the wiring link is actually a couple posts above. Hopefully this will go directly to the pdf showing all the wires, PID, SSR, elements and switches. Take a look and see if that helps clear things up

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&id=40235

On the back of the PID there's 10 wire terminals. Terminal 7 and 8 are wired directly to the SSR (9 and 10 are the mains power terminals). You do not need any other power source.

 

[DJR]

So it's possible to run the PID whilst having the element off then manually switching on the element & letting the PID take over to reach target temps.

I'd put a simple SPST switch capable of 12v on the PID to SSR output +ve line rather than switching 240v, but depends on how you want to use it. You could make it a SPTT switch with to a second permanent 12v supply if you want to override the PID output and turn it on as well. E.g Top - off, Bottom - On, Middle - PID.

Kinda like this:


NC -- |
PID - |- SSR +12v input
+12v- |

(you'd also need a 12v plugpack in the above and may need a small resistor e.g. 1k ohm to limit current through the SSR input side when using the 12v supply - look at the absolute maximum current value for the input side on the SSR spec sheet)

Just remember your PID will get a bit wacky while it adjusts to having its input not being part of the loop, ie. don't run auto-tune with the PID isolated from the element. Should be fine though as long as the parameters aren't too out-there.

 

[Crusty]

You can put the switch between the element and SSR therefore you have the ability to isolate the power to the element. If your PID switches the SSR on then the power will only get as far as the switch if turned off. When the wort has cleared and you would like to apply power to the element simply turn on the switch and the PID/SSR will take over.

This is exactly what I am trying to do.
Can someone please, please, please send me a detailed wiring coloured diagram of how I need to get it wired.
Remember on my control box, I have 4 illuminated switches.
1. DEI-106H controller on/off
2. PID on/off
3. Element on/off
4.Pump on/off.
Just reconfirming, I would like to monitor my HLT with DEI, using gas & not an element for this one. A detailed wiring diagram would be appreciated for the DEI setting it up like this as well. I am not heating my HLT up with an element so no need for the transformer that came with the DEI. Simply using this to monitor HLT temp whilst heating with gas.
Turn on the pump, recirculate then when clear, fire the element up & let the PID take full control of on/off.
Cheers

 

[Crusty]

I did say PLEASE!

 

[matho]

hey crusty what model of PID are you using, if you can supply more information on the part you are using I can have a look at it tomorrow for you

 

[Crusty]

Thanks matho,

auberins PID with ramp, soak, kiln, ssr output, pt100 probe here

MashMaster controller DEI-106H, here

I am not switching an element with the DEI for the HLT. Heating with gas & only want to use this controller as a fancy digital temp monitor.

Looking to isolate my 2400watt element in my rims tube via a switch on my control box & once wort is returning to mash tun nice & clear, turn on element & have PID take control. It has been asked why don't I just have the element on when I turn the PID on & then use the stop function on the PID until I am ready to fire the element then use the run function on the PID. The problem is I have a separate switch for the isolation on my control box that I would rather use since it's already installed in the control box.
Cheers mate.

 

[pmash]

This is exactly what I am trying to do.
Can someone please, please, please send me a detailed wiring coloured diagram of how I need to get it wired.
Remember on my control box, I have 4 illuminated switches.
1. DEI-106H controller on/off
2. PID on/off
3. Element on/off
4.Pump on/off.
Just reconfirming, I would like to monitor my HLT with DEI, using gas & not an element for this one. A detailed wiring diagram would be appreciated for the DEI setting it up like this as well. I am not heating my HLT up with an element so no need for the transformer that came with the DEI. Simply using this to monitor HLT temp whilst heating with gas.
Turn on the pump, recirculate then when clear, fire the element up & let the PID take full control of on/off.
Cheers

Should have done the BM route mate ! .......Soooooooooo much easier

Cheers dude :icon_cheers:

 

[raven19]

Further to our pm's, I have a number of pics of my initial wiring of my PID & SSR in my RIMS build thread in my sig below too.

 

[Crusty]

Should have done the BM route mate ! .......Soooooooooo much easier

Cheers dude :icon_cheers:

I hear ya brother.
I did have the rig sold but he pulled out after making a substantial deposit & the BM was on the wish list.

Thanks Rav, had a look at your wiring but I'm as useless as tits on a bull.

:icon_offtopic: How the hell do I quote a reply then answer that & quote someone elses reply & answer that as well in the same reply.

 

[MaltyHops]

:icon_offtopic: How the hell do I quote a reply then answer that & quote someone
elses reply & answer that as well in the same reply.

Begin to answer both posts in two separate windows, then copy the text from one
and paste into the other window.