2016 Hop Plantations, Show Us Your Hop Garden!

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Just checked the hops growing at my in-laws property. Heatwaves have sparked a serious growth spurt. Well of the ones I have in pots, at home.
 
My POR have already developed cones. No side shoots yet just a bunch of bines. Should I snip the tip sort of speak?

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Goldings in the front, Cascade to the back. Some of the bines on the Cascade are heaps thick and its grown so quick it caught up to the Goldings that had a big head start.

Recently added the cheap plastic edging and some mulch. Plan was to take a rhizome cutting from the Cascade next winter but seeing all the success people are having with cuttings I might do a couple myself in the aquaponics.

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Growth all over the place for these first year rhizomes, from just reaching the bottom of the coir rope, to up and over the top wire. Still, I'm pretty happy so far.

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wide eyed and legless said:
If one gets too many hops what does one do with the excess, I had thought of making the oil but Knowing how much oil to use would be a problem.

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I reckon too many hops would never really be a problem. At worst I'm sure you could give away/sell any excess or make some super hoppy beers
 
So, at the beginning, everyone said that for first year plants you should keep all the bines rather than selecing the best 2-3.... however it is getting harder and harder to keep them all cos there are so bloody many! Seriously there are multiple bines from multiple locations in each pot... if i had more space i would run at least two lines from each one. Should i start cutting off the excess bines? It seems wrong, but the lines are getting crowded already...

Dr Smurtos comment about them being like weeds is becoming abuntantly clear!

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wide eyed and legless said:
If one gets too many hops what does one do with the excess, I had thought of making the oil but Knowing how much oil to use would be a problem.

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Have you thought of making soaps? What type of oil and how where you thinking of doing it? Do you use any liquid fertilisers on your hop plants? Everyone has been warning me off adding extra phosphorus to the ground, I was thinking of using a little bit of slow release pellets when I dress mine in the next week or so, good or bad idea? Sorry for the questions but your plants gave me a boner.
 
Depends on how far your hops have grown, if they have taken off Power feed or Dynamic lifter just remember the latter is a slow release fertiliser so not to often with the feed.
The oil can be extracted using alcohol but it could end up an expensive exercise with hops,probably better with its cousin.
 
Have you heard of anyone doing a butane extraction on hop cones? I've had pretty good results with other things, and found butane with no byproducts.
 
MZ12x is the more advanced way of extraction from ANY flower source, butane extraction almost always contains trace metals any other unwanted impurities
 
Mine aren't going along too badly now, the Hallertau is shooting up nicely although the Fuggle is still slower. It suffered worse attacks by caterpillars, though. Needless to say the caterpillars have been taken care of. Not really expecting much from these plants but still it's fun to do anyway :) Only attached the Hallertau pic because it's too big to attach the Fuggle one.

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BottloBill said:
MZ12x is the more advanced way of extraction from ANY flower source, butane extraction almost always contains trace metals any other unwanted impurities
Very similar to what I did only I used isopropyl from Bunnings I would have thought all methane was organic, but it certainly worked on the you tube video I watched very fast evaporation can we get MZ12x here?
 
wide eyed and legless said:
Very similar to what I did only I used isopropyl from Bunnings I would have thought all methane was organic, but it certainly worked on the you tube video I watched very fast evaporation can we get MZ12x here?
known as Dymethel ether it was available under the MZ12x banner on Amazon but is out of stock and not known whether a restock is going to happen at this stage. Being an organic degreaser and most certainly a single compound extraction fluid I can't see why it can't be found under a different banner.
 
I said burrrr, it's cold in here.

There must be some hops coming through next year.

(Cascade, no signs from chinook or goldings as of yet).

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Can't find any easy local sources for dimethyl ether. My solvent knowledge isn't that great, could diethyl ether work much the same?
 
sponge said:
I said burrrr, it's cold in here.
There must be some hops coming through next year.
(Cascade, no signs from chinook or goldings as of yet).
That hop plant looks great as it slowly covers the entry to the brew room...umm house ,don't tell the better half I said that.
 
One of the bines in my Hallertau pot has got these brown spots/patches on some of the leaves. It's worse on the older (lower) growth but I can see it beginning to appear on the newer growth as well. This doesn't appear to be slowing the plant down in any way, though. What is causing it and how can you get rid of it?

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Quote me if I'm wrong but looks like a form of leaf blight to me. see article below.
Leaf blight refers to any disease afflicting plants in which portions of the leaves become discolored, dried out, or dead. While leaf blight is most often fungal in nature, bacterial blightalso exists. Leaf blight can affect nearly any plant with leaves.
Fungal plant diseases can cause a variety of symptoms, of which blight is only one. Blight is characterized by plant tissues that are dry or dead, but not rotten. Blight can strike different areas of the plant. In addition to leaf blight, fungal infection can cause stem blight and blossom blight, for example.
Bacterial leaf blight can affect beans, rice, cotton, tomato, pepper, soybean, and cassava. Different bacterial strains affect different plants. Bacterial blight on leaves is characterized by waterlogged spots on the plant's leaves that eventually turn brown or black, followed by the leaves falling off prematurely. In rice, the spots on the affected leaves turn white rather than black in their final stages.
Leaf blight, whether fungal or bacterial in nature, can be prevented by proper care of crops. Crops that are too crowded, or planted in soil that lacks nutrients, or is not regularly sanitized are susceptible to blight. To prevent blight, first select plant cultivars that are resistant to fungal and bacterial infection. Plant the seeds according to the guidelines for the plant to ensure that each plant receives adequate air flow and light. Prune foliage if it becomes overcrowded.


Make sure the soil you plant in is well-balanced nutritionally, and maintain it properly. Practice regular fertilization and sanitation, and make sure the soil has adequate drainage, as overly moist soil can lead to bacterial infection of the plants. Also, practice crop rotation, alternating non-related crops each season.
One of the most frequent causes of blight is contamination from other plants. Take care not to plant infected seeds or plants. If you find plants with blight, remove them and dispose of them properly. Also, practice weed control and insect control. Insects can be carriers of bacterial infection.
To keep your plants healthy and free of blight, there are a number of preventative solutions you can spray on your plants that are both natural and inexpensive. Lemongrass and mint extract help prevent both fungal and bacterial infection. Fungal blight on leaves can also be prevented with applications of aloe, animal urine, baking soda, basil, compost tea, copper, coriander, garlic, ginger, horsetail, horticultural oil, malabar nut, milk, neem, onion, papaya, pongam, soap, sulfur, or turmeric.
 
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