10 minute IPAs are good for school night brewing

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I like this thread for a few reasons, firstly it seems that the Australians are more recently the ones willing to put a batch or three on the line for the sake of trying something different (BIAB comes to mind as well) and also that it seems no matter how many scientists and brewing conventions tell us that you can't do this for that reason or that for this reason people seem to do it anyway and all of a sudden the world doesn't implode as predicted and everyone sort of scratches their head and sticks with it because it works (no-chill comes to mind). Not hating on the scientists (I just completed a science degree) but I think sometimes it's good to say "well you're telling me it won't work but I'm going to try anyway" because sometimes you end up changing the way things are done, and I think the Australians are getting bloody good at it!
 
Are many of the people posting on this thread using the short mash/boil with BIAB? I'm pretty close to trying my first all grain, and although I think I'll stick to the status quo for my first one or two brews, I'd love to streamline the process as much as possible eventually.
 
Ive done it a few times when brew day just seems to take for ever.
 
rossbaker said:
Are many of the people posting on this thread using the short mash/boil with BIAB? I'm pretty close to trying my first all grain, and although I think I'll stick to the status quo for my first one or two brews, I'd love to streamline the process as much as possible eventually.
Quickest brew I've done with this method was just under 2 hours, mash in 30min first rest, couple infusions and a batch sparge. 10min boil, 100% cube hops and all cleaned up.

aussie pale ale

75% ale
25% wheat

Amarillo and galaxy from memory to 23 ibu
 
I am planning a brew tomorrow.

Aiming for 140 Litres with an SG of around 1.056.

Brewmate set to no chill gives me an IBU of 50.58 when hop addition is set to aroma and 87 when set to boil.

Given that I will be adding the hops at flameout prior to whirlpool, which setting should I use?

Oh yeah, hop addition is 1kg of Galaxy flowers.

Cheers
 
mtb said:
Sure this is the right thread brad?
Not sure, there are plenty of 10 minute IPA threads and this one seemed the latest? Whilst it may be a question related to brewmate the process is closer to 10 minute IPA.
 
bradsbrew said:
Brewmate set to no chill gives me an IBU of 50.58 when hop addition is set to aroma and 87 when set to boil.

Given that I will be adding the hops at flameout prior to whirlpool, which setting should I use?
I'd say aroma - it's what I use for anything after flameout, although to be fair it's *usually* for sub-90 cube additions.

bradsbrew said:
Oh yeah, hop addition is 1kg of Galaxy flowers.
:blink: ... :kooi:
 
bradsbrew said:
Not sure, there are plenty of 10 minute IPA threads and this one seemed the latest? Whilst it may be a question related to brewmate the process is closer to 10 minute IPA.
Oh yeah, that makes sense. I think I'd become distracted by Grumpy's epic failure and misinterpreted the OT - thought you'd mistakenly posted in the wrong thread!
 
Lord Raja Goomba I said:
If I do cube only, I just set brew mate to no chill, 0 min addition. IT works for me.
That is what I normally do, except this time all my hops are going in post boil. Pretty sure I should get enough bitterness from 1KG of galaxy. Just wanting an idea of the ibu so I can adjust mash temp and malt appropriately.
 
bradsbrew said:
That is what I normally do, except this time all my hops are going in post boil. Pretty sure I should get enough bitterness from 1KG of galaxy. Just wanting an idea of the ibu so I can adjust mash temp and malt appropriately.

I treated one batch where I waited to pitch hops into the cube until it cooled 5 degrees, as a 10 min chilled IPA. I reckon I wasn't too far wrong with the bitterness. Thought I did find that it wasn't as 'bitter' as I'd hoped, and that actually affected the perceived hoppiness. I ended up switching straight back to cube hopping.

That is with a sample size of 1 and YMMV of course.
 
This thread was actually about short boils, not late additions.

Any recent news on 30 min mash and boil? Does it impact on efficiency doing a short mash?

Interested in doing school night brews, cutting it down to ~2 hours total would be great.
 
[SIZE=10.5pt]Awesome thread everyone! Kudos to GrumpyPaul. I'm in the same boat. 2 small kids not a lot of time... I'll definitely try the 30/30 in my next brew. Probably a Pale Ale.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Anyone tried this modern revolutionising approach using a Grainfather? Should I reduce the amount of sparging water since there'll be less evaporation with the short boil?[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Cheers[/SIZE]
 
drjoffily said:
[SIZE=10.5pt]Awesome thread everyone! Kudos to GrumpyPaul. I'm in the same boat. 2 small kids not a lot of time... I'll definitely try the 30/30 in my next brew. Probably a Pale Ale.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Anyone tried this modern revolutionising approach using a Grainfather? Should I reduce the amount of sparging water since there'll be less evaporation with the short boil?[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Cheers[/SIZE]

I would. You would have to tweak recipes for less efficiency and less boil off. Essentially use a bit more grist and sparge less.
 
The Grainfather mash/sparge water calculator allows you to set your boil time. So you can make it 30 mins and it'll lower your sparge water amount accordingly.
 
Before you start thinking of boiling (or mashing) for 30 minutes or even less like 10 minutes (God forbid) it would be a good idea to understand what happens in a boil.
This from the IBD is a good introduction to the role of boiling View attachment 02_-_The_function_of_wort_boiling11.pdf and a bit on how to boil.View attachment 06 - The process of wort boiling 2.pdf

Worth remembering that the Utilisation of hops in a 10 minute boil is 9% (or less) in a well designed kettle with a vigorous boil, that's for pellets, less again for flowers.

To get anything like enough bitterness you are going to need massive amounts of hops, short boils will not get the protein reduction necessary for clean stable beer. Generally high protein levels make beer taste "muddy" or "muted" saying that the flavours aren't fully expressed.
Mark
 
drjoffily said:
Awesome thread everyone! Kudos to GrumpyPaul. I'm in the same boat. 2 small kids not a lot of time... I'll definitely try the 30/30 in my next brew. Probably a Pale Ale.[/size]
Anyone tried this modern revolutionising approach using a Grainfather? Should I reduce the amount of sparging water since there'll be less evaporation with the short boil?[/size]
[/size]
Cheers[/size]
After your last post about high temps using crystal and amber, I'd focus on getting the simple things right before playing around too much. Learn the whats, wheres and whys, then experiment with intention and an understanding of the results.

Not having a go - everyone starts somewhere and I know I'm still learning and enjoying the process.
 
manticle said:
After your last post about high temps using crystal and amber, I'd focus on getting the simple things right before playing around too much. Learn the whats, wheres and whys, then experiment with intention and an understanding of the results.

Not having a go - everyone starts somewhere and I know I'm still learning and enjoying the process.
As the instigator of this thread - I concur with the focus on getting the simple things right first concept.

I'm sure that many of us start out wanting to get all experimental and try all sorts of weird and wonderful things - I know I did

I did learn a lot from this thread and my beers have improved no end by spending a fair bit of time a) focusing on basics of brewing technique and recipe formulation and b) googling the crap out of stuff to really try and learn stuff a lot more than when I started this thread and ignorantly thought it took 10 minutes to brew a 10 minute IPA.

Keep on learning - keep on reading - ask lots of questions - and most of all enjoy what you are doing.

Cheers
 

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