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Why do ALL of my can kits taste bad?

Discussion in 'Kits & Extracts' started by megabyte, 4/6/16.

 

  1. pcmfisher

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    Posted 9/11/16
    I must be doing something wrong as mine tasted nothing like the pub stuff. Not bad (for a k&k) but not like you get at the pub.

    I suspect that if the real stuff tasted anything like mine or your kit brews they wouldn't sell very much.
     
  2. Barge

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    Posted 9/11/16
    FTFY
     
  3. Lionman

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    Posted 16/11/17
    Tempted to do a kit again now to see if they are shit or not...
     
  4. fungrel

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    Posted 16/11/17
    I partly agree. I've made extract brews from RO adjusted to pH 5.2 and I challenge anyone to pick that the beer was made from extract.

    I think the "tinny taste" you're referring to is more a combination of different factors, and mineral content is only one facet of the overall picture.
     
  5. Hangover68

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    Posted 21/11/17
    I was tasting a mates Coopers IPA last week and i was surprised how good it was, nearly as good as my AG IPA.
    I did a morgan's pilsner 3 weeks ago and its just started to condition properly but first tastes were disapointing, still early days for a pilsner so it should get better.
     
  6. PaulG79

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    Posted 22/11/17
    First time I tasted that Coopers IPA I didn't love it cos I'm more used to American IPA's and didn't realise the Coopers one was more UK style. But after I tasted a few UK IPA's from Dan's, wow, that Coopers kit is good. I couldn't pick much difference between it and some of the award winning older style UK ones.
     
    Hangover68 likes this.
  7. david effer

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    Posted 17/1/19
    try using filtered water,,we always used rainwater,until we installed filters,,it did improve the taste but then again i always brewed coopers pale ale kits and never had a complaint, even from mates who always drink comercial coopers
     
  8. Kenf

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    Posted 17/1/19
    I remember that “home brew” taste! I brew AG and I also get the Coopers monthly Craft brew kits - to try different tastes And occasionally I will put down a kit beer (Coopers/ Morgan’s/ what ever)
    And I just don’t get those tastes anymore?
    I use either a Modern Coopers fermenter (the one without the airlock hole), a stainless fermenter and a converted 9 litre keg and nobody has ever picked up its home brew!
    Maybe over time my techniques have improved.
    But now I’m curious why?
    Cheers
     
  9. altone

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    Posted 17/1/19
    Same here, I'm currently drinking my first can brew for a very long time and it tastes fine.
    A bit bland but fine otherwise - I need to do more additions to the next one.
    The only thing I KNOW I'm doing differently now is removing Chlorine from the water.

    After doing AG for a long time guess my whole process is a bit more precise, but that's the only actual conscious difference
    I've made to the process.
    Always used bought yeast not use the kit one, added malt extract, temp control was the same etc. etc.
     
    Kenf likes this.
  10. Barry

    To thine own self brew

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    Posted 18/1/19
    There is a significant difference between fresh extract/kits and extract/kits that have been sitting around too long. Often the “kit” taste comes from non fresh extract in my experience.
     
    MHB and Kenf like this.
  11. Kenf

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    Posted 20/1/19
    I actually had a Great Northern clone off the tap last night, it was made from extract cans and it tasted fine. I think that because I don’t ever use cane sugar, tend to manage ferment temps better and make sure cleaning and sanitation is done properly makes a world of difference!
    Plus I remember when I started brewing 25 or so years ago I tended not to wait the two weeks after bottling! :)
     
  12. DrJez

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    Posted 11/3/19
    Kits are sh!t Brewed them for years before going all grain and finally being satisfied

    I think it's possibly the no boil. So many critters, it's ludicrous to even consider
     
  13. unyeasted

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    Posted 23/4/19
    Interesting. I thought that once too.
     
  14. chiefbrewlord

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    Posted 11/5/19
    I've made some great kit brews. I always use temp control, lower end of fermentation reconditioned (16 deg.cel) for ales, DME, dextrose and never came sugar. Also dry hopping really adds so much additional complexity. I also hydrate my yeast before it goes in. That's my tips..
     
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  15. TheBigD

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    Posted 18/5/19
    I just brewed a basic 21 litre brew with coopers Canadian blonde, BE3 and kit yeast (rehydrated) it fermented out at 21degrees and was finished in 4 days so I cold crashed for another 4 days then straight into the keg and forced carbed and it sat in the kegerator for a week( only because I went away), it has no twang and no green taste what so ever.
    I was very surprized, I did taste it before I went away and it was just as drinkable then if not a little hazy but its crystal clear now.
     
    Last edited: 18/5/19
  16. westo2014

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    Posted 15/10/19
    This thread is exactly where im at. A mate of mine has convinced me that he makes good kit beers without the twang etc so I'm making a return to kit brewing. all i got 20 years ago was mostly good old crappy twangy home brew.

    What I'm taking from this tread is

    1. Water treatment, filtered and boiled
    2. Yeast change
    3. Sanitation routines
    4. Hops
    5. Fermenting temperature control


    This is in my mind, Additional free amino nitrogen to the wort (how to brew discusses the effects of a deficit in kits and extracts).

    Has anyone tried adding free amino nitrogen to their wort? Or kraeusening?

    Much appreciate your opinions im not going to give up.

    I'll podt with results, once I get into it
     
  17. jackgym

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    Posted 15/10/19
    I used to get the dreaded "twang" 30 years ago.
    But today brewing ales at 18 deg in a fridge using:
    1 can Aust. Pale Ale
    1kg dry malt
    25g each of Nelson Sauvin, Amarillo, Chinook hops
    US-05 yeast
    in a Coopers fermenter, I make a very tasty beer.
    It's so good that commercial beer has no taste whatsoever.
     
    krz, westo2014 and koshari like this.
  18. koshari

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    Posted 16/10/19
    the bolded bit hits the nail on the head,

    jacks recipe is very typical of the brews i pump out,
    i pretty much do a can of lager kit (really only to get some bitterness without having to do a boil) , 2500grams LME in 40l , and steep 500g of crystal malt for added body, nuttiness and head retention. i also throw in round 150g of dry hopping.

    Heres an example, a mate of mine brews EXACTLY the same recipe as me ( he got it of me because he loves this recipe) . last year he had an issue with his temp controller and a batch got up to 25 degree. we normally keep it at 18. the difference was night and day, he ended up pouring that batch down the the drain. i really think you cannot stress enough how much difference good temp control makes.

    another indicator that i go by, after a well brewed batch you will have hardly any krausen ring round the top of the fermenting vessel, IMO if there is an inch thick sludgy ring round the fermenter wall your yeast has gone off far to aggressively.
     
  19. jackgym

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    Posted 16/10/19
    That's the effect of the constant temp. Years ago when the fermenter sat between, say, 15 and 30 degrees, the krausen sludge blew all over the top of the fermenter and out the airlock. (BTW I don't use an airlock now).
     
  20. koshari

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    Posted 16/10/19
    i still use the airlock basically just as a poor mans releif valve and because the hole is there, if it wasn’t i would prolly just not screw the lid as tight so any residual pressure could escape rather than splitting the fermenter. i could place a relief valve there i suppose but its the least of my concerns.
     

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