I think stating glad wrap lets too much air in not entirely correct, yes it is not an absolute air tight seal, but I tried multiple attempts with my bunnings drum fermenter lid and a super tight grommet/airlock which would never seem to seal up air tight, I'd get a bit of pressure on the airlock levels but even at high krausen I'd never see a single bubble through (even though I could hear the fermentation "fizz' going steady.Greg.L said:Homebrew beer is a very safe and trouble-free process.
The thing you should never do is blame your equipment. If you have problems it is because you have done something wrong, you should face that so you can identify and fix the problem. The commonest cause of infection is too much air getting in. If you are using gladwrap to cover your fermenter and you get an infection look no further - the glad wrap is letting in too much oxygen. Most spoilage organisms need oxygen, keep a good seal on your fermenter and you keep out the oxygen, very low chance of getting an infection. If you open your fermenter often, have a large headspace, that lets in air that encourages infections. Any fermenter can be cleaned, hot water and soap will get rid of any bugs, and they wouldn't grow without air anyway.
I wish all these people throwing away fermenters would send them to me, I could put them to good use.
As for infections in cubes, leaving wort without pitching yeast is asking for trouble. You only need a few wild yeast to get in and the fermentation will start. I am only surprised it doesn't happen more often.
+1 - I am closer to you Manticle and have been noticing a truck load of them living in my conifers and a handful come into the house, maybe my conifers are the source h34r:manticle said:@timmi - been a lot flying around my place recently. I haven't had any infections from the buggers but I assumed it was a cross between next door's compost and any spilled beer in my shed since I started kegging a few weeks ago. Interesting to know it's not just my place.
Couldn't agree more with this!Greg.L said:Homebrew beer is a beautifully safe and simple process. If you have problems, don't blame it on bad luck, a random infection getting into your brew.
If you have infections, IT'S BECAUSE YOU'RE NOT DOING IT RIGHT. All the sanitiser in the world won't help if you have something wrong in your process.
You pitch a healthy population of yeast into the wort, within 24hrs a good fermentation has started producing copious amounts of co2 and alcohol into a liquid containing a strong anti-bacterial agent. You make sure that there isn't too much air space in the fermenter, no more than 10cm, you seal it with a good lid and you leave it alone at a suitable temperature. In 2 or 3 weeks, beer! If you do it right the chance of an infection is pretty close to zero.
I realise this post will make absolutely no difference to how people on this forum brew their beer.
Exactly. Throwing out the fermenter didn't work for me. It was 9 months of leak experts and house renovations... way easier :unsure:Greg.L said:It's not about being "holier than thou". I have no interest in blaming people, I make plenty of mistakes. The point is, if you have a problem don't just say " I need to use more sanitiser" or " I have to chuck out that fermenter". Everyone makes mistakes, when you have a problem it is your chance to analyse your process and find out what the cause was and how to fix it. Almost certainly, using more sanitiser or buying a new fermenter won't fix the problem. (unless you are using an unsuitable fermenter which is quite a common problem).
********.Greg.L said:If you have infections, IT'S BECAUSE YOU'RE NOT DOING IT RIGHT. All the sanitiser in the world won't help if you have something wrong in your process.
Never truer words said.Lecterfan said:Cleaning and sanitising only get you so far if your process exposes the wort to too much air, and you have 'something in the air' other than love.
I was once holier than thou about people that got infections as my cleaning and sanitising regime is fine. I'm very happy for those of you who haven't experienced it, and I hope you never have to deal with it.
You have no way of knowing what is happening in your ferment. I am surprised someone with a lab background could make a statement like this, based on descriptions. I would like to see a description in scientific literature of an aggressive airborne yeast. The main spoilage yeast is brett, which is never very aggressive. This sort of claim is what makes people so confused.stakka82 said:Suspected it was wild yeast. Suspicions confirmed by Ross based on my descriptions and his experience. Since then have done multiple experiments and everything points to a very, very hardy and aggressive strain of airborne wild yeast.
I'll have to disagree with you on your disagreement with Greg.stakka82 said:********.
Greg.L said:The thing about aggressive airborne wild yeast ruining a brewshed doesn't really make sense. If that were true we may as well give up homebrewing now, it would be impossible under those circumstances.
One possible cause of problems is re-using yeast harvested from a brew. I know it is cheap and popular but there are inherent risks. When we pitch a yeast we shouldn't expect to have a pure culture growing in our beer. Other nasties will sometimes get in there no matter how good your sanitisation, but saccharomyces yeasts are so good they outcompete everything else. There is a brief window in the first few hours when the nasties can grow, if you re-use the yeast you are multiplying the window and the nasties can build up their populations to levels that cause problems. It is normally fine but if you do it and you get an infection, that may be the cause.
The problem with gladwrap is not just the seal, but oxygen can pass straight through plastic film, even with a pressure of co2 inside (see dalton's law). It is definitely an inferior way to seal your fermenter. You may get away with it but that doesn't mean you should do it.
Have a google of killer toxin viruses in yeast, and the transmission of viruses between wild/wild and wild/domestic strains. Yeast populations swap genes all the time due to reproduction or pathogens. Add in a few genes for increased dispersal via air currents and it's theoretically possible. Not saying this is the culprit but it's certainly a possibility.Greg.L said:but saccharomyces yeasts are so good they outcompete everything else.
This is another trap for homebrewers, the "traditional open fermenter" fallacy. Go to any microbrewery in Australia, you will see the fermenters are full, closed up and well sealed. If they aren't, they will be in a while after their first few infections. KEEP THE AIR OUT. Four simple words that will prevent a whole lot of heartbreak.mje1980 said:You are aware that a huge number of breweries in Europe use open fermenters right?. They don't worry too much about sealing their fermenting vessels or oxygen getting in the way?
Greg.L said:The problem with gladwrap is not just the seal, but oxygen can pass straight through plastic film, even with a pressure of co2 inside (see dalton's law). It is definitely an inferior way to seal your fermenter. You may get away with it but that doesn't mean you should do it.
Fair enough Dalton's law states partial gas pressures allow such a transfer at the interface point (ie. glad wrap barrier), but surely with a bulk volume above the wort of more dense CO2 you will have enough of a barrier that the air will not travel downward through the more dense CO2 to come into contact with the wort, it defies physics/gravity? This also would suggest your suggestion of decreasing head space in a fermenter does not help as this would reduce the volume of CO2 protection above the wort, does it not?Greg.L said:This is another trap for homebrewers, the "traditional open fermenter" fallacy. Go to any microbrewery in Australia, you will see the fermenters are full, closed up and well sealed. If they aren't, they will be in a while after their first few infections. KEEP THE AIR OUT. Four simple words that will prevent a whole lot of heartbreak.
A lot of infection photos I have seen have half-full fermenters. This is another obvious problem. A big airspace will make it much easier for oxygen to get in, if you want to do a smaller brew you need a smaller fermenter.
Sorry but you don't really understand partial pressures. Two different gases, such as co2 and o2 can mix fully without increasing the volume. Because there is no o2 inside the fermenter and lots outside, there is a strong concentration gradient drawing the o2 into the fermenter. It is very counter-intuitive and difficult to appreciate, but a blanket of co2 doesn't stop the o2. Once the oxygen gets in, aerobic spoilage bugs like acetobacter and film yeasts can go to town on the surface of the beer. If you see stuff growing on the surface then that is usually an indication that oxygen is present.DJ_L3ThAL said:Fair enough Dalton's law states partial gas pressures allow such a transfer at the interface point (ie. glad wrap barrier), but surely with a bulk volume above the wort of more dense CO2 you will have enough of a barrier that the air will not travel downward through the more dense CO2 to come into contact with the wort, it defies physics/gravity? This also would suggest your suggestion of decreasing head space in a fermenter does not help as this would reduce the volume of CO2 protection above the wort, does it not?
It's a very interesting concept (albeit the wiki description says it is not followed by real gases as strictly as the definition), but it does make me wonder if practically, the O2 passing across the glad wrap would be filtered of airborne bugs somewhat? Because due to the partial pressure theory, by the end of a standard 2 week fermentation process the head space of the fermenter is a complete mix of CO2 and O2, surely most people using glad wrap lids would be finding oxidation occurs on the surface at the very least?Greg.L said:Sorry but you don't really understand partial pressures. Two different gases, such as co2 and o2 can mix fully without increasing the volume. Because there is no o2 inside the fermenter and lots outside, there is a strong concentration gradient drawing the o2 into the fermenter. It is very counter-intuitive and difficult to appreciate, but a blanket of co2 doesn't stop the o2. Once the oxygen gets in, aerobic spoilage bugs like acetobacter and film yeasts can go to town on the surface of the beer. If you see stuff growing on the surface then that is usually an indication that oxygen is present.
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