Which Element(s) For Boil Keggle

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JaseH

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I'm building a 3V rig using converted 50L kegs.

I have a single 2200w KegKing element in my HLT and tested it the other day by using it to do a full boil extract brew. With a lid on and insulated with a closed cell foam camping mat, I got a good boil going, removed the lid and managed to keep a rolling boil for 60min for the extract and hop additions and it worked quite well.

I now need to select an element for my boil keggle and am thinking I need a little more than 2200w to get a good strong rolling boil going(which I've read is desirable for AG to drive off DMS), I'd also prefer not to have insulate the boil kettle.

The options I'm considering are 2 x 2200w KegKing elements or a single 3600w element from eBay. The benefit I see with the twin 2200w elements is that I have some control over the boil by switching one element on and off. But it may also mean that I have either too much or not enough heat at any one time, wheres possibly with the 3600w I'll get that good vigorous boil with no adjustment required and much cleaner simpler set-up?

So what have people used in their 50L electric keggles and how do they perform?
 

QldKev

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Do you have a 15amp outlet to run a 3600w element?

If you have 2 x 10amp outlets spare I would look at 2 elements and get one of these
"3800W Adjustable 0-220V Voltage Regulator for Dimming Light Lamps Speed Control" about $12 from evilbay. (thanks to ekul for finding these)

That way you could run the full 2 x 2200 = 4400w worth of heating until you hit the boil (ie don't waste years to get the boil) and the wind one of the elements back until you get the desired boil.

QldKev
 

JaseH

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My garage is wired for 15amps, so the 3600w element shouldn't be a problem. Hey I like the idea of that voltage regulator, might be a good idea combined with the 3600w element to adjust the boil. Am I likely to need more than 3600w in the boil kettle?
 

QldKev

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My garage is wired for 15amps, so the 3600w element shouldn't be a problem. Hey I like the idea of that voltage regulator, might be a good idea combined with the 3600w element to adjust the boil. Am I likely to need more than 3600w in the boil kettle?

3600w will be heaps for a single batch
 

black_labb

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I've been using the 2200w element to do my boils of as much as I can fit into the keggle. I havent had any dms issues cubing my beer, but I only use pils malt rarely. I tend to muck around with sparging a fair bit to just squeeze 40L (2 cubes) out of my system. It does take some time to get to the boil but am happy with it.
 

JaseH

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I've been using the 2200w element to do my boils of as much as I can fit into the keggle. I havent had any dms issues cubing my beer, but I only use pils malt rarely. I tend to muck around with sparging a fair bit to just squeeze 40L (2 cubes) out of my system. It does take some time to get to the boil but am happy with it.
Is your keggle insulated? I was reasonably happy with the boil I achieved with the 2200w element in my test the other day, but I had the keggle insulated and I wouldn't call it a vigorous boil. I'm sure 2200w would get me by, but would rather go a bit bigger now whilst I'm building it so I'm not wishing I had of later.

I'm thinking of this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/270822994638?ss...984.m1423.l2649

Combined with the voltage regulator QldKev suggested sounds like the way to go now.
 

angus_grant

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Hmm, my question is somewhat on topic: I am planning on wiring up a heating element to a micro-controller board which will basically mimic what a Fridgemate does: sense the temperature, and if outside of temp settings apply electricity; if inside temp settings, don't apply electricity.

Do these elements have a max "switching" life? Would they suffer from constant switching on/off?
 

kelbygreen

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I would be watching them as it doesnt look like it has a earth and the comments some one asks this and he thinks it doesnt. I have read about people have fully live kettles using incorrect elements or wired wrong so maybe invest in a well tested unit??? I am sure there is a way to earth them properly but if your not a electrician then I would be staying clear of it.
 

black_labb

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Is your keggle insulated? I was reasonably happy with the boil I achieved with the 2200w element in my test the other day, but I had the keggle insulated and I wouldn't call it a vigorous boil. I'm sure 2200w would get me by, but would rather go a bit bigger now whilst I'm building it so I'm not wishing I had of later.

I'm thinking of this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/270822994638?ss...984.m1423.l2649

Combined with the voltage regulator QldKev suggested sounds like the way to go now.

Mine isn't insulated. I like the 2200 as its fine on any powerpoint.
 

JaseH

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Thanks Frothie, I got one too. Are you going to use that controller QLDKev linked to?
Yeah am going to give it a shot. I asked one of the electrical techs I work with if it would do the job it advertises and he thinks it should, he actually ordered one himself as he had been looking for something similar, I figure for $12 bucks its a worth a try anyhow!
 

hotchilli

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I bought this element a week ago and the seller is a shonky bastard. The listing states that the element is 297mm long and has a stainless steel boss. The element I received was only 200mm long and has a brass boss. When I asked if he could supply the advertised element, he said he couldn't as his supplier was out of stock and that the length of the element didn't matter. He did offer a refund, but it's going to cost me about $20 in postage charges. I'm amazed the listing is still active despite the fact he knows he can't supply the advertised product.
 

ekul

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those voltage controllers are great. They are pretty basic so you'll need a box around it if you've got little ones running around. I don' have a box on mine but i probably should.
 

spog

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hmmm, just read the questions in this ebay sellers listing.
the answer to question number 3 is a rippa,it seems to be in prain ingrish to me?...no doubt <_< ........cheers.......spog..........
I bought this element a week ago and the seller is a shonky bastard. The listing states that the element is 297mm long and has a stainless steel boss. The element I received was only 200mm long and has a brass boss. When I asked if he could supply the advertised element, he said he couldn't as his supplier was out of stock and that the length of the element didn't matter. He did offer a refund, but it's going to cost me about $20 in postage charges. I'm amazed the listing is still active despite the fact he knows he can't supply the advertised product.
 

claypot

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Sorry off topic, but has anyone used one of those voltage regulators for controlling pump speed, did it work O.K?
Cheers Clayton.
 

kelbygreen

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yep thats what I was saying! so he is stating that the whole unit will be live! Something I would def not trust. As some one said you could prob just put the earth wire onto the element some where or onto the kettle but I am far from a electrician so not sure the best way around it
 

kelbygreen

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clayton get a magnetic drive pump. You do not have to change the speed just restrict the flow with a ball valve
 

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