Where to install my electric element

[Beersnob]

Ok,lads I'm sure this has been asked before. some advice would be much appreciated. I"m building a double batch electric BIAB recirculating system. I have My new 100 litre kettle and also have pretty much all the rest of the gear needed to start putting it all together. I'm going to use a 5500w element. I am lucky to have a fellow brewer and mate who installed a 32a power outlet for me in the garage. My question is how far from the bottom of the pot should I install the element? and should it be installed opposite the ball valve, or somewhere else? I am going to have a false bottom and eventually will convert to a malt pipe.
Cheers

 

[nosco]

No replies? Id put it as close to the bottom as you can get it which is pretty much just above the curve of the pot base. Having said that I reckon 2 smaller elements would work better than one 5500w. I have a 5500w element I find the boil tends to be concentrated in one spot, especially with bigger pots. If you look around the forum you'll notice a lot of people use 2 elements. This is doubly true when doing double batches as you will need to use a bigger or more hop bags (if you are going to use them). I have found the bigger bags can really interfere with the boil. Still making great beer on my 98lt 5500w biab setup though. 2 elements will need a bit more thought for the wiring arrangement. Go for elements with stainless thread too.

2 elements will bring the false bottom up a bit but with a 100lt pot it matter at all. If you have the money invest in some kind of tri clover element housing. They are the ducks nuts. Particullarly when it comes to cleaning bigger pots. Go for elements with stainless thread too.

My 2c.

 

[malt junkie]

I have two 2400w elements in a 100L pot Brauclone I easily boil 70L odd, now my elements are the baine marie type ones made by romar elements to go around the inner circumference of the pot, I had these made to bolt through the base. ( you could have them made to bolt through the side like blichman do). I like the ability to switch one off when mashing, I only bring in the second when ramping or boiling.

Other wise I'd echo what nosco said above, being able to remove the element for cleaning would make end of day wash down a breeze.
The easier it is to strip the pot bare, including pickups, whirlpool arms, elements, valves and any other attachments, the more often you will strip it, and the cleaner it will be.

 

[hairydog]

Mount your element (tri clover fitted) as close to the base as possible to get a good seal on a flat surface at the base of your pot.
Think about pump out lines to circulate around element and grain to ensure good temperature control.False bottom to be removable
when boil starts (tabs or holes) and think of gravity fed hot water sparge to eventual malt basket,and a winch to raise basket whilst
doing sparge.
Good luck.

 

[nosco]

As to what Malt Junkie said. The shape of your element would affect the quality of your boil. I jave tue Camco type one

 

[Beersnob]

Thanks nosco & malt junkie, and thanks for your advise. I've already invested in a 5500W Threaded Ripple all SS element with a tri clover element housing. Purchased from brewhardware.com . So I will be installing it as close to the bottom as possible, the hex nut is a big sucker around 40mm ID, so I need to be able to make it seal without the curvature at the bottom of the pot stopping it from having a good seal. It look like the element may need to sit approximately 25mm from the bottom. The whole set will be controlled by a Hosehead BIAB brew controller.
Hairydog, I will definitely be installing pump out lines to recirculate to get better temp control. I have a mate [emoji6]sourcing a removable false bottom for me. I will definitely think on the gravity fed hot water sparge. The malt basket will be a definite when finance allows it.

 

[nosco]

Same element and housing i have. You wont be disappointed. I have just noticed the boil is a bit uneven but it wont affect the final beer. I still have to turn it down a little or the boil is just about jumping out of the pot.

 

[Jase]

I have two 2400w elements in a 100L pot Brauclone I easily boil 70L odd, now my elements are the baine marie type ones made by romar elements to go around the inner circumference of the pot, I had these made to bolt through the base. ( you could have them made to bolt through the side like blichman do). I like the ability to switch one off when mashing, I only bring in the second when ramping or boiling.

Other wise I'd echo what nosco said above, being able to remove the element for cleaning would make end of day wash down a breeze.
The easier it is to strip the pot bare, including pickups, whirlpool arms, elements, valves and any other attachments, the more often you will strip it, and the cleaner it will be.

Any pics Malt Junkie?

 

[malt junkie]

Old pic but you get the idea.

 

[buckerooni]

good to see other 100L elec builds happening with flashy brewhardware.com gear! I'm in a very similar position, 1V 100L elect recirc and from other threads on AHB the consideration around placement of three things is important - where your tap, temp probe and element are located to get the most errr...appropriate temp read when recircing with a controller.

I'm going as low as I can got for my silver solderable triclover element fittings, the curve of the pot is the only thing stopping me going lower.

looking forward to seeing some pics.