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What Grade Ss Is In Kegs?

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Rubes

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A welder mate wants to know if it is 304, 304L or what.

"Is it important?" didn't seem to go down too well. Probably on a par with "Can I use this old packet of baker's yeast in your LCPA recipe?" ;)
 

Matty

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I don't know what the grade is, but My brother used a titanium bit to drill 5 holes in my kegs. It took him an hour per keg and the drill bit was absolutely smoking hot by the time he was done.
 

Hopeye

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Hey Matty, Is that right, an Hour per keg ??? I've just finished cutting the top out of my five kegs with an angle grinder and it only took about 20 minutes per keg to do (plus 6 discs and having to go back to Bunnings to buy a new angle grinder because the first one blew up !!! But, it was only a cheapy anyway $18.00). Are you sure that his drill bit wasn't dull ????
 

Batz

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I drilled all my kegs no worries , even with a 2 1/2" hole saw , did the lot in one and a half hours , you have to use a low drilling speed.

And as far as welding SS , if you you a tig I don't think the grade matters too much
 

big d

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hi rubes
the schafer container systems site(keg manufactureres) lists only two materials for making kegs.
standard 304
special 316

hope this helps ya mate

cheers
big d
 

sosman

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Matty said:
I don't know what the grade is, but My brother used a titanium bit to drill 5 holes in my kegs. It took him an hour per keg and the drill bit was absolutely smoking hot by the time he was done.
You mean those things painted gold in the "bunnings specials" pack? Also I have to ask, you don't mean tungsten carbide masonry drill bits by any chance?
 

big d

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drill nice and slow and any old hss drill will get through ss.
 

timmy

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make sure the drill is spinning the right way, don't laugh seen many a young apprentice do this.

also if the drill gets hot it will be blunt, don't be scared to sharpen it. it pays to use a lubricant on the drill as well to help it cut.

As far as welding goes oxy, stick, tig or mig is fine. i usually just use 316 rods/ filler rods. If oxy welding it you need to apply a flux first. The grade isn't overly important, though some austenitic grades become magnetic when heated such as 304.
 

Bigfella

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When you cut the top out of kegs there is a real thin disk you can buy.
I did two kegs with one disc also I had know problems drilling. I think the drill bit was blunt.
If anyone want the type of disc I can have a look in the shed, But I just bought it at Bunnings it about 5 mm.
 

Jazman

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i used a mig on mine with 316 mig wire
 

Hoops

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Rubes

From memory kegs are 304.
The reason it can be important is not too much concern for homebrewers. Some SS grades are more resistant to different things. One may resist acid , another may retain strength at high temp (say 500DegC) and if the two are welded together then one is weak at high temp and one is prone to attack by acid so you would get the WORST of both combined, however we are not typical working at these temperatures or acid concentrations when brewing so there's no real concern.
304 - food grade
316 - food grade and marine grade - resists pitting better.(more nickel + molybdenum)
If it has an "L" after it (304L) it has a low carbon content which provides extra corrosion resistance after welding.

Just make sure you "pickle" the weld with pickling paste afterwards.

Hoops
 

Justin

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I used the same discs as bigfella. Really thin discs only about 2mm thick. Cut like a hot knife through butter, did both kegs in about 20 mins and used less than half a disc. I drilled my kegs using a big pedistal drill press, then later I did more holes with my cordless drill. If you use sharp HSS drill bits they will drill quick and with no probs. Use a dull one and you'll drill all day.

Heed Hoops warning. Either use pickling paste to repassivate the stainless or leave the kegs to sit in a dry area for a week to repassivate naturally. I've got to repassivate one of my welds now, it's got a bit rusty, I think from a dodgey weld job where it got too hot. Oh well.

N.B. Pickling paste or a solution of 10% Nitric acid.

JD
 

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