What are you using to cut holes in your vessels?

[Mister Wilson]

Hi all,

I'm upgrading at the moment and needing to cut some holes for elements (1 1/4") and fittings (7/8") and was wondering what others are using.

I'm pretty sure I used a hole saw/step bit for my BIAB setup which was a PITA to get water tight but with some messing around was OK.

The chassis punches that The Electric Brewery recommend are $$$$ and the places I've been to don't even stock them.

What are you guys using and where did you get them from?

Cheers

Mr W

 

[Doubleplugga]

I used the punches recommended on the electric brewery website, yeah they cost a lot but they were worth every penny. But I was in the US at the time so postage was nothing. I wasn't going to skimp on these things, especially since I was punching holes in expensive Blichmanns.

 

[coopsomulous]

I have seen those punches sold at the big green shed of tools.

Personally, I have used all sorts of different drill bits depending on what I had on hand at the time and the material i was using but hole saws worked the best for me.

 

[sp0rk]

Step drill bits
Go slow and use a plenty of cooling/cutting fluid

 

[mr_wibble]

I used a Keg King hole saw.

My pilot bit has stripped out though, thinking of replacing it with a nicer one

 

[mr_wibble]

I used the punches recommended on the electric brewery website, yeah they cost a lot but they were worth every penny. But I was in the US at the time so postage was nothing. I wasn't going to skimp on these things, especially since I was punching holes in expensive Blichmanns.

Would they cut a hole in a keg though ?

Edit: see below, but up to 1.2mm thickness

 

[lael]

For the base or for the side? I've used punches from eBay that worked excellently. Pot wall thickness of 0.7mm. Drove them with the ozito drill. Also did it by hand at first... That was hard work.

I have some hole saws from eBay also that I've used on a tray, and cut like butter. I haven't had cause to do the side of a pot yet though.

 

[QldKev]

A decent quality hole saw would be best. I haven't worked in my trade (sheetmetal worker) for many years so no longer have access to the good tools. Last few times I used stepped drill bits and they got the job done but took a bit of time.

I use these in the metric size / type 1
I find it easiest to lay the keg on its side, and sit on it with the area to be drilled between your knees. Not too close that you drill your balls.
Lube up the area, the keg not your balls. I just drown it in RP7/CRC as it's normally what is close on hand. Keep it very wet when drilling with the CRC, you can clean it off after.
Drill a pilot hole with a normal 1/8 drill bit, wetting the drill bit in CRC too.
Then lube up the work area and stepped drill bit. Using a high torque slow drill setting and good firm pressure get to work on it. Keep the area wet with CRC, the CRC will smoke a bit. I have to stop a few times as my cordless drill keeps getting hot when doing this. The bigger the hole gets, the harder it becomes. Don't be in a hurry and look after the tools, give the drill and job time to cool frequently. Do not overheat the stainless as it will work harden and you will cry and blame the tools for failing. Even if it takes you 30mins or more per hole, it will be there for many years of service. I've drilled many holes into kegs this way, even up to the biggest hole size the stepped drill bit handles. Both my drill and stepped drill bit will happily drill many more.

 

[mr_wibble]

WRT the punches ~

Going through The Electric Brewery, to Amazon, then conversion ~ the linked punch was rated to "16 gauge", which converted to 1.2mm

 

[mr_wibble]

If you work-harden your stainless steel, it may be possible to ream out the hardened bit with a circular file.

I managed to work-harden just the pilot hole, and somehow managed to get the file in and clean it out.
It was not easy, so don't go there if you can help it.

 

[lael]

http://m.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=qmax+punch&isNewKw=1&_pgn=1&epp=24&itemId=&isRefine=true&mfs=GOCLK&acimp=0&sqp=qmax+punch&_trksid=p2056088.m2428.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xqmax+punch. Are the punches I got. I think edak first recommended them.

 

[Mister Wilson]

Thanks for the replies.

My step bit must be a smaller one (pretty sure it doesn't go as bit as 1 1/4").

This is for holes in the side of keggles.

Maybe the step bit I had was a cheapy, might look at others.

Cheers

Mr W

 

[mr_wibble]

A decent quality hole saw would be best. I haven't worked in my trade (sheetmetal worker) for many years so no longer have access to the good tools. Last few times I used stepped drill bits and they got the job done but took a bit of time.

I use these in the metric size

Man-alive! Reading this forum costs me so much money.

Lube up the area, the keg not your balls.

Ahhh! So that's what I was doing wrong.

 

[Mister Wilson]

Thanks lael

I'll see if I can find a local retailer stock those.

Cheers

Mr W

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

I have used step bits and hole saws , my preference is for a good quality Bi metal hole saw and some good lube (tap magic).
You will get many more holes out of a hole saw on stainless. Punches look great but all seam to be the wrong size for my fittings ?

Nev

 

[lael]

Thanks lael

I'll see if I can find a local retailer stock those.

Cheers

Mr W

All the local ones I found were two to three times the price for the same item. Shipping was pretty quick from the UK.

 

[wessmith]

Those punches (we used to call them chassis punches back in my radio building days) are great but wont tackle 1.6mm s/s. You also need to keep the thread well lubed. A better bet are these style of rotary cutters (http://www.lapsun.com/12pcs-hole-saw-tooth-kit-hss-steel-drill-bit-set-cutter-tool-f-metal-wood-alloy_p966.html). We have been using them for many years on our brew systems where we need to do mods in pipework or simply cutting holes in s/s electrical panels. They cut exactly to size too, not like the other hole saws that wander all over the shop.

Wes

 

[JDW81]

Why not go and chat to your local metal working shop and see if they can do it for you? I got 3 holes drilled into a keg for the cost of a case of beer and they did a far job better than I could have (even with good gear).

JD

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

They cut exactly to size too, not like the other hole saws that wander all over the shop.

Wes

Wes
I use this method. Drill the pilot hole with the required arbor drill then remove the drill and replace with a blank piece of rod the same size as the arbor drill.
Stops the pilot hole being chewed out by the drill and keeps the hole size accurate.
Nev

 

[Fat Bastard]

I've been using a cheapo hydraulic punch from Ebay.

Under $200 when I bought it, and will punch up to 3.5mm in "metal", which I assume is Aluminium, although judging by the way it's gone through 1.6mm stainless, I'm sure it would handle 3mm mild steel easily enough. Only problem I've had with it is that it didn't come with a punch the right size for 1/2" BSP, so I sourced a cheap one locally and it works well enough with it.

I've used it extensively with my new brew rig build and have been more than happy with it. You still need to drill holes for the draw bar to go through, but they're relatively small (20mm or 12.5mm) and the punched hole has bugger all burr on it.

My trade background is as a toolmaker and the only holesaw I'd consider using is a carbide tipped one. The HSS holesaws are really only for cutting holes in fridge panel, wood and shit-metal. I'm not saying you can't get them to work in SS, but if you've got more than one or two holes to make, buying them is false economy, especially when combined with a drill that won't run slower than about 250 rpm.

You could even gang up with your local brew club and buy a cheap punch as a club tool, something that sadly escaped me when I bought this, seeing as I've punched a couple of the local clubbie's orifices for them!