Users Of The "no Chiller Method"

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Kai,
Yes I have in the past, but because I was leaving the aroma hops at 90-100c for an extended time (whilst the jerry can cooled), I found that the bitterness increased. My percpetion anyway. One way around this would be to chill to about 60c (as ross does).

Warren from your photo, are you running hot wort through that pot (with hops) into a jerry can? If so aren't you worried about HSA? Just looks like you'd get alot of splashing.
I've thought about introducing a homemade hop back of some description but I'd want it air tight and purged first.

Thoughts?
Cheers
AC
 
the beer is a lot clearer and the beer attenuated an extra 4 points.
Doc


My beers are about as clear/cloudy as they were before, but I have noticed that I am also getting better attenuation. I just thought it was the water this side of town but am not so sure now as I have been doing the nochill since shifting out here.

cheers
johnno
 
Kai,
Yes I have in the past, but because I was leaving the aroma hops at 90-100c for an extended time (whilst the jerry can cooled), I found that the bitterness increased. My percpetion anyway. One way around this would be to chill to about 60c (as ross does).

Warren from your photo, are you running hot wort through that pot (with hops) into a jerry can? If so aren't you worried about HSA? Just looks like you'd get alot of splashing.
I've thought about introducing a homemade hop back of some description but I'd want it air tight and purged first.

Thoughts?
Cheers
AC

AC

Yep, I put in a bed of hops and the wort runs onto them. In reality you get bugger all splashing. The hops swell very quickly and the copper tube more or less gets immersed in them. No HSA problems thus far. IMO it's only an issue if you plan to store your beer for a long time. Mine rarely last more than a couple of months. :lol:

To me it just makes sense and has thus far worked well for no chill aroma additions. Gives pleasing aroma and excellent hop flavour. Making your hopback environment O2 free while not impossible sounds a bit "over-engineered".

I've tried tossing my aroma additions in the cube and got pretty much frustrated with the results.

Warren -
 
to the people who are getting better attenuation - are you including the break material or are you leaving it out?
 
Kai,
Yes I have in the past, but because I was leaving the aroma hops at 90-100c for an extended time (whilst the jerry can cooled), I found that the bitterness increased. My percpetion anyway. One way around this would be to chill to about 60c (as ross does).


I don't like the idea of chilling it to 60C first, firstly because it's more work and secondly because it removes a lot of the 'hot fill' advantage of no-chilling.

I calculate my cube hopping as 5 minute additions, not that I have any real scientific basis for it.
 
to the people who are getting better attenuation - are you including the break material or are you leaving it out?

Hate to harp on the hopback. Another useful purpose for it. Bed of hops filters a lot of the gunk. My cubes seem to have less spooge in them as a consequence.

Warren -
 
to the people who are getting better attenuation - are you including the break material or are you leaving it out?

All mine goes in. I open it up, then quickly dump upside down into the fermenter to let it splash everywhere. Aerates it well and leaves a nice thick layer of foam.

Cheers.
 
to the people who are getting better attenuation - are you including the break material or are you leaving it out?

Yep. I just dump everything in with a big splash around as Duff does.

Beers,
Doc
 
Perhaps the inclusion of the break is helping along the attentuation.

I do as you do duff, however I never take a FG reading so cant say whether attenuation has improved.
 
Good idea Warren was thinking about using my hop sock to filter when transferring from jerry to fermenter.
AC
 
Sorry me again, I also dump everything in, does anyone have clarity issues with the dump and bump philsophy.
AC
 
I leave most of the settled trub in the cube, haven't had a problem with attenuation. Next couple of NC's will be in the ESB style cubes which means no luxury of having a tap - they will just be dumped in. Only beer i had clarity issues with was one with lots of MO, but from what i hear MO has a built-in chill haze direct from the factory, that can't be removed anyway.
 
I add whirlfloc at 5 mins - once i didn't and there was HEAPS more break in the cube, i add it in at 5-10 mins and there is a nice solid trub cone in the kettle. Then again i have 150 whirlfloc tabs to use up, so even hefeweizens would get them :p
 
Whirlflock and yeast nutrient at 10 mins for me. I don't get a lot of break material into the cube unless I'm right at the edge of enough wort to fill the cube. I use a bazooka screen on the kettle too, so have to transfer slowly otherwise it will clog.

Beers,
Doc
 
A question about kettle finnings

Say that break material is collected from the kettle and goes into the cude / fermenter - will it still drop out of suspension in the cube / fermenter or does it go back into suspension and result in a cloudy beer?

Cheers
 
yes it drops out. when i no chill almost all of the wort from the kettle goes into the cube. i have had no clarity issues.
i even brewed a pils like this without using any whirfloc and it was crystal clear after a month of CCing.
 
Cool

My first AG was pretty cloudy - I didn't use any finning in the kettle

So I'll contact Ross to get some Koppafloc

Chuck it in at the right time and hopefully any hot break that I pick up from the kettle will drop out in the cube

Basically i don't wanna redesign my pick up tube (it picks up all but about a litre in the kettle) and wanted to know that the finning's effectiveness doesn't stop after the wort leaves the kettle

mypickuptubeinsidethekettle.jpg

it's hard to see here but the base is bashed in

cheers
 

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