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Turning A Keg Into Fermenter

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kirem

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and from Dr Cone http://consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-lalv...nightyeast.html

Stirring in normal gravity decreases ester production. Stirring in high gravity increases ester production. CO2 pressure in early fermentation decreases ester production. Taller fermenters produce less esters than short fermenters. High temperature early in fermentation decreases ester production. High temperature later in fermentation increases ester production. Low pitching rate can result in less esters.
 

Judanero

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Necro alert.

I'm about to cut the top out of a 30L keg so that it can take a corny lid, was thinking that I should mostly fill it with water to reduce the chance of sparks damaging the inside of the fv?

Is this just being paranoid?

Cutting is happening tomorrow morning so any input welcome.
 

Mr B

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I wouldnt worry. Try to use a cutting disk that hasnt cut mild steel though if you can.
 

Judanero

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That wouldn't be a problem, I've got a few virgin disks. Also toying with the idea of using the dremel-even though it takes a little longer it makes nice neat work.

Or.. would waiting to plasma cut it be better?
 

Mr B

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I've cut with a grinder, no problems, take a couple of rounds to break through to get a neater circle, don't go straight through at once.

If you have the patience, a dremel would take a little less metal than a 1mm grinder disk, but doesn't sound like an issue as you don't want to reuse the lid as a lid.

I've heard plasma leaves hard melted bits under the lip, doesn't sound as good.

A loop of string around the post and a marker pen makes a nice round circle mark.
 

Online Brewing Supplies

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Judanero said:
Necro alert.

I'm about to cut the top out of a 30L keg so that it can take a corny lid, was thinking that I should mostly fill it with water to reduce the chance of sparks damaging the inside of the fv?

Is this just being paranoid?

Cutting is happening tomorrow morning so any input welcome.
No its a very good idea, one I recommend always.
 

keifer33

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I've got a 30lt keg sitting here waiting to be re-purposed and considered cutting for a corny keg lid. I did a bit of searching and found a guy who cut the bottom of the keg as it is flatter and makes for a better seal of the lid - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f258/diy-chilled-conical-keg-fermenter-123770/

You can just get a few tri clover fittings and attach those to the coupler section to seal it/have a ball valve on it.
 

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keifer33 said:
I've got a 30lt keg sitting here waiting to be re-purposed and considered cutting for a corny keg lid. I did a bit of searching and found a guy who cut the bottom of the keg as it is flatter and makes for a better seal of the lid - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f258/diy-chilled-conical-keg-fermenter-123770/

You can just get a few tri clover fittings and attach those to the coupler section to seal it/have a ball valve on it.
:icon_offtopic: I will swap you for a 50L if its a type A keg and you want something bigger.
Nev
 

Judanero

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keifer33 said:
I've got a 30lt keg sitting here waiting to be re-purposed and considered cutting for a corny keg lid.

You can just get a few tri clover fittings and attach those to the coupler section to seal it/have a ball valve on it.
I should have clarified a bit better, that is exactly what I'm doing.. I'll put a pic up when it's finished. :icon_cheers:
 

JWB

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The easiest way is to use glad wrap or similar. I made a large rubber band to go around the outside with a bungy cord.

Just put glad wrap over the top and secure with rubber band. put a pin hole in the glad wrap to let the gas out. it also lets you see the ferment without taking the lid off..


Cheers
JWB
 

keifer33

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Online Brewing Supplies said:
:icon_offtopic: I will swap you for a 50L if its a type A keg and you want something bigger.
Nev
Was hoping to keep the volume a little smaller but thanks for the offer :)
 

Judanero

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1.jpg
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5.jpg

So I marked the corny lid on a bit of paper, cut out the template and drew onto the top (bottom) of the keg.

Filled keg with water and then cut out the hole on the keg using a reinforced cutoff bit for the dremel. I went through two disks to complete it.

Used a brush bit to clean up the edges but will probably give it another couple goes to really make sure everything is smooth as.

With the lid on and the ball valve open it held all the water in so I'm fairly certain it's got a good seal.. as soon as I lifted the pressure release valve all the water flooded out.

Drilled a hole for the airlock grommet which perfectly fit my thermowell (think it's a 14" one from brewershardware- can't really remember the length)

When pushed fully in it sits about 3 cms above the ball in the valve.


The milk crate stand is pretty ghetto but does the job well! B)
 

Tilt

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Thats a sweet looking fermentor Judanero.
Would you mind showing a pic or two of the fitting you've attached to the keg outlet?
Very interested in what you've done with the triclovers etc. to attach the ball valve and barb fitting.
Also where did you get hold of the fittings?
 

Judanero

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Yeah no problems mate, I'll take some pics tomorrow and put them up.

I got the 2" ball valves from aliexpress, from memory they were about $40-$50 each delivered, the clamps were from either eBay or aliexpress, but I got the silicon seals from brewers hardware when I ordered the thermowells (and trub filter).

I honestly can't remember where I got the barbs but I'll see if I can go through my emails to check it out.

I did look at getting an end cap reducer to change it from a 2" to a 1" but the cost was prohibitive and I wanted to keep the whole thing as short as possible.
 

keifer33

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Looks great mate. Mine is now on the list of jobs over the festive break.
 

Tilt

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Thanks mate- keen to see the pics to make sure I order the right bunch of gear. I know you wanted to keep the setup short, but did you consider putting a short sight tube in before your ball valve.
 

Judanero

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Hope the pics help mate, no I didn't consider a sight glass between the ball valve and keg... I want my yeasties to party in the dark, and there's not much clearance left as is with the milk crate.

My configuration is two 2" clamps, two 2" Silicon gaskets (recessed), 2" ball valve and a barb.

6.jpg

7.jpg


NB- When I turn my other 30L keg into a FV I'll be using black milk crates for both of them, to keep it professional ghetto. B)
 

jonnir

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Any reason you went a 2" valve instead of say a 3/4" valve?
 

Judanero

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jonnir said:
Any reason you went a 2" valve instead of say a 3/4" valve?
Yeah because the opening for the keg fits a 2" clamp perfectly, so it takes a 2" ball valve without the need for a reducer, if you went a 3/4" you'd need a reducer (end cap or concentric).
 
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