Trouble With Ross Method

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ROFL
Doesnt it involve Butters crusty old slipper(And i dont think you want to know how it got crusty)(Helps with frost bite on the toes) ... chill your beer right down and hit it with serving pressure and rock back and forth for 30 odd mins

Same same as the force carb but with out the risk of over carbing but takes 30 times longer (Although if you stuff the force carb that takes longer to do-gas and repressurise)

Tom
 
Am I missing something but what is \\\"the slipper method\\\" please explain to a dumbass :D

Chappo knows, he coined the phrase, cos I told him how to do it and he complained that his feet got cold :lol:

Keg and purge; chill; connect at serving pressure; then sit in front of the tv, computer, or read a book, whilst rolling the keg with your feet for about 15- 30 minutes....

After 15-30 mins, the carb is good enough to drink; leave it on the gas for a further 24 hours, and it\\\'s 110% absolutely frickin perfic. :lol:

Phil is referring to his brewday the other week....I did this with one of his kegs....rolled it for about 15-20 mins, just had a wee bit of patience. Got carbed noicely, and that\\\'s what I was drinking all afternoon.....

worst case scenario: not enough carb, need to wait for 24 hours.
Best case: perfect carb in 15-30 mins.
Normal case: somewhere in between.....but, due to the fact that it\\\'s at serving pressure, it will never over carbonate. It\\\'s a hybridised version of \\\"force carb\\\" and \\\"let-er-sit\\\". ;)

edit: Tom\\\'s got it.


edit v2.......lots of '\\\' for some reason???
 
It depends how desperate you are to drink the new keg. I put on a new keg of NZ Pilsener two days ago and tapped one this evening. It's lovely and clear and fresh tasting but a bit flat. It's drinkable - about the equivalent of a UK keg bitter - but now I know it's a sound and tasty beer I'm happy to leave it for another ten days to gas up properly for the style. I have a 3-keg setup and have draped a 'do not touch' label over that tap on the font :icon_cheers:
 
Ahhso... Ok thanks for that. :p

Cheers

Sully
 
Wow I thought this was a bag out on Ross thread? :rolleyes: Had 99 points of Ross's problems... lucky I had a second read of the OP.


Chappo knows, he coined the phrase, cos I told him how to do it and he complained that his feet got cold

:lol:

Tis true I froze me wee little pinkies and ALL because Butters never mentioned to wear slippers. Methodical my ass! <_<


This "SLIPPER" method to me is the only one I use especially if I have to bring a keg on ASAP. It' simple and there is no way of over carbing. It will pour a little lack lustre carb wise but by the time the sun is setting again the beer will be near perfect. BUT the keg MUST BE COLD to be effective.
 
I now just hook up, turn up to 250 for 24 hrs and its done... ;) Unless you are desperate for a Beer straight away, why bother trying to gas it in a minute?? :eek:

+1 for me, or 150kPa for 48 hours.

Or use Butters' slippers for sure.... best part of this one is it cant be overcarbed.
 
This "SLIPPER" method to me is the only one I use especially if I have to bring a keg on ASAP. It' simple and there is no way of over carbing. It will pour a little lack lustre carb wise but by the time the sun is setting again the beer will be near perfect. BUT the keg MUST BE COLD to be effective.

Cold to be effective?? No need to roll the keg if its cold as the CO2 will dissolve readily into the beer when its cold.

Only need to "rock and roll" if the beer is warm (room temp).

cheers

Darren
 
Cold to be effective?? No need to roll the keg if its cold as the CO2 will dissolve readily into the beer when its cold.

Only need to "rock and roll" if the beer is warm (room temp).

cheers

Darren

Chemistry 101 Darren, Chemistry 101

:rolleyes:
 
You have to rock it to aid the exposure to the Co2 and therefore leaching more Co2 into the beer.
 
I always use the 'Ross' method, as in a good shaking with the gas on the beer post [300]... if I am in a hurry or not!

That said, it did take 4-5 kegs to get to know it and nearly gave up on it.. BUT I now have it nailed and know no other way!

I guess it is about finding a method you can use and working it out till you can carb your kegs to your liking.. every time is the trick!

2c
 
MateO,

Doesn't look like anyone answered the one way valve bit of your question...

This confuses me even more because i dont see how (after turning off the gas) the regulator is meant to show the pressure reduction in the keg if the one way valve does not allow any CO2 (and therefore pressure difference) to pass from the keg to the regulator.

So... This part is pretty simple. As the Co2 is "absorbed" by the flat beer the pressure in the keg reduces = low pressure... the pressure on the other (reg) side of the one way valve is higher = high pressure... The one way valve allows the high pressure Co2 (on the reg side) to flow to the low pressure situation inside the keg. Hence the pressure reg will display the real pressure inside the keg ;)

Only time this won't be the case is if you over carb and then shake or warm up the keg - thus releasing Co2 from suspension - which can't get back passed the one way valve to the reg. But if you have that happening then... you have just saved yourself a very expensive trip to your HBS for a new reg, which is the reason I have a one way valve.

I do have a question to add though! (maybe Butters can help?) Does the 'slipper method' produce the same fine sticky head that the "sit 'n' wait for a week at pouring pressure" produces? ie is it the pressure or the time that makes the difference?

I currently use the Ross method amended to 250 Kpa for 2 - 2.5mins - turns out ok.

John.
 
Force carbonate all the time ... but i dunno if I wanna go rocking a 2400 tank of beer. Could prove difficult. Any help on that one?

Find that if there is significant head pressure on tank (even with 2C beer) then the carb stone works much slower, often having to crank the co2 way above the expected PSI setting.

Somewhere, somewhere on the AHB, had a temp vs pressure matrix we use as reference. Works most of the time, except for the above. Was the beer tried and a sample tested for temp (if temp was going to be considered) to check? Easy way to check for carbonated beer is to pour one ... then site back, relax ... you know the drill from there... and always good to check against the gauges ...

Scotty
 
Cant wait for the "Ross invented Beer Gas "Thread.

:lol:
 
I've been using the 'slipper' method all along without even realising it :rolleyes: except I set to serving pressure then shake like crazy - its carbed enough to drink within about 10 mins an I'm tired and need to sit and have a beer...

If I get sick of shaking it I just let it sit for a few days and then just start drinking - it gets there eventually... B)
 
Force carbonate all the time ... but i dunno if I wanna go rocking a 2400 tank of beer. Could prove difficult. Any help on that one?

Find that if there is significant head pressure on tank (even with 2C beer) then the carb stone works much slower, often having to crank the co2 way above the expected PSI setting.

Somewhere, somewhere on the AHB, had a temp vs pressure matrix we use as reference. Works most of the time, except for the above. Was the beer tried and a sample tested for temp (if temp was going to be considered) to check? Easy way to check for carbonated beer is to pour one ... then site back, relax ... you know the drill from there... and always good to check against the gauges ...

Scotty
Scotty do you purge the tank a little bit when doing it with a carb stone? I remember reading in one of the books by Fix about having a relief valve set to slowly bleed a bit of pressure from the headspace as you carbonate witha a stone. I tried it a few times when I could be bothered installing a carb stone into a keg and found it worked ok but you had to watch for foaming.
 
Use the Ross method with no problems here, however it took me a few goes to work out how to do it properly.

Make sure you are turning the gas off at the tank, not the regulator. If you turn it off at the regulator, you won't see a pressure drop (as the gauge is now isolated from the keg).
 
Instead of connecting the black disconnect to the gas line i simply roll the keg on its side so that the gas valve is on the bottom and roll for 50 sec. I hear the bubbling and everything seems to be going fine except when i turn the gas off, the pressure gauge on my regulator does not drop.

I could be missing something here but I leave the gas connnected with gas post uppermost to stop beer running back to regulator, turn valve off at the gas bottle then roll keg back and forth on its side untill pressure on delivery gauge settles then repeat until keg stops at pouring pressure. Works fine for me.

:icon_cheers:
 
[/font]I have been having a bit of trouble with the Ross Method.

Ostojic... this is a method I have been using now for 10 years with no problems. Sometimes it could be seen as more beneficial to carb your beer over a couple of days. I'm often puzzled as to why people need their beer carbed in hours.

Try this link.

here

Warren -
 
Ostojic... this is a method I have been using now for 10 years with no problems. Sometimes it could be seen as more beneficial to carb your beer over a couple of days. I'm often puzzled as to why people need their beer carbed in hours.

Try this link.

here

Warren -

dito warren. I find just chucking it into the keg fridge for 1 week on 15psi does the job just right with out needing to overly man handle the keg.
 
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