I'll be bottling my worrying batch of Old. It's been sitting in secondary for a week now, and I bottled a sampler a few days ago primed with brown suagr. (I love to sip on the beer I'm bottling while I bottle, even if it is a little green). Being an extract brewer, I don't need to plan a special day for it. I put on most of my batches in evenings after work.
I will be toddling off to a new(ish) boutique pub in the Gong, called the Five Islands Brewery. I must compare their "Bulli Black" to my own
This weekend i will be brewing the following home made recipee: 1st time for this one:
1 x can of Black Rock IPA
2 X Handfulls of Rolled Oats
2 x Handfulls of Light Rye Malt
4 x Handfulls of Xtal Malt
8 X Handfulls of Franklin Malt (to provide enzymes for converting Starch in Grains/oats to fermentable sugars)
1 kg liquid Light Malt
2 x Handfulls of Goldings
Mash/Steep all grains for 1.5 hrs (will try 1/2 hour rests for each 30 - 40 and 70 Degree Celcius - this will be the first time trying this)
Boil wort with liquid malt and 1 x handfull of goldings for 20min
Add 1 x handfull of goldings 5 mins to end of boil.
Place into fermenter, top up to 5 gallons , add yeast from starter and ferment for one week. Rack into secondary and dry hop if necessary.
I use cold extraction for steeping specialty grains. I don't know if it can be used for base malts (eg. pilsener, ale) - haven't come across any info relating to this.
I've only recently started brewing particularly dark beers and this has coincided with my use of this technique. I have little to compare but all I've read recommends it as a means of getting dark grain flavour without astringency.
I've read that cold extraction is less efficient than hot water steeping so I double the amounts. I crush the grains, steep in cold water for 20-24 hours, strain and rinse, using the resulting extract as the basis of my mash liquor.
There's currently some discussion on the HBD brews and views list.
I can email you a cold extraction article written by someone who works at a US malting company. Alternatively, if you're a registered member of the Aust craftbrewing list, you can download the zipped file from
I'm not brewing this weekend (The Ballymore Sevens take precedence - Go Lote!) but I will be putting down a wheat beer on Tuesday night. My last one was so successful, I'm harvesting the yeast from it (Wyeast Weinstephan Liquid) and adding it to the 3kg ESB pack which my local HBS guy reckons is a winner on its own. We shall see.....
I put down the Heritage lager exactly as you did but at about 22 deg in the bath. I had a hell of a lot of activity within about 6 hours. I racked after about 5 days, and strangely got activity for about another 4 days of slow bubbling. When I went to bottle, I had about 22 litres of the worst smelling liquid I've ever smelt.
Obviously I didn't sanitise correctly at some point and it got infected, so sorry, I can't let you know how it turns out. I'm sure it won't be as bad as mine tho
I'm thinking of brewing an English style mild. I have some recipes from a book called "Real ales for the home brewer" by Marc Ollosson. The first one in the book is a copy of "Belhaven 60/-" and runs to %3.
It's a combination of pale malt with a little crystal and black. The recipe also calls for some invert sugar but I don't know about this - I may just add some extra malt to get to the required OG. It's bittered with goldings and flavoured with goldings and fuggles.
Described as "a fine example of a dark mild, full malt flavour in the mouth with light hop notes"
I'm just a hankering to do some crankering ;-) - let me at that mill.
I'm using up all the left-over kits I've got at the moment. I kept buying them when they were on special at the supermarket
Put on a brew last nite, Coopers Real Ale, with 1.5KG of Coopers LLME. I boiled the LLME with some golden cluster pellets for bittering (using stuff up again), and some leftover goldings flowers for aroma/flavour. Safale for the yeast rather than the coopers stuff.
I'm going to rack that to secondary on sunday, and once again put a kit on. I'll be using a Coopers Bavarian Wheat. I'll steep 500g of wheat malt grain for 90 minutes then boil the liquid with 2KG of LWME. Hallertau pellets for bitterness and flavour/aroma. I popped a smack pack of WYeast bavarian wheat last night, so I'll make a starter for that on saturday evening, should be ready for pitching on sunday evening.
After that I've only got 1 tin of Coopers left (lager), then I think i'll stick with extract / specialty grains. Means I've got more flavour control, and its not anymore effort realistically as I'm already doing enough work modifying the kits.
For me, this is the weekend of the 'Grow Your Own Yeast! You see this is the first time that I've cultured yeast from the sediment of a bottle conditioned beer (well, actually it's the second time but I don't want to talk about the first time as I made a minor embaressing mistake with the process).
I used the sediment from a bottle of James Squire Colonial Wheat Beer which I belive is an authentic hefewiezen. I've had it nurtuing for a few days and I'm hoping it will spring into life by Sunday.
I'll be using a Munton Wheat Beer Kit, 1kg Liquid Wheat Malt extract and about 400g of dry Wkeat Malt extract that I happen to have spare. Any further hints, tips etc warmly welcomed.
As well, let's see. I have to bottle a Samual Adams clone that should be just about ready although when I tasted it when I racked it to the secondary it tasted more like bilge water...... And I'v also got to rack a Pilsner kit and dry hop it with one of those Saaz tea bags.
That should be enough - oh yes, I've also got to finish drinking the case of JS Wheat Beer
Did my third all-grain brew today.
Brewed a Wit that will hopefully close to a Hoegaarden Wit.
At worst the colour will be close.
Added corriander and orange peel.
Also used the White Labs WLP400 Wit yeast.
Looking forward to trying it when it is ready.
Also tried out my new brewing invention. It needs a bit of work but worked great. It may even revolutionise sparging arms as we know it.