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Brizbrew

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I have been checking out some thermometers on Ebay and have found some real bargains compared to the prices charged at Grain and Grape etc the problem with this one is there is no threaded piece on the back to attach a nut to from the inside of the keg. Would it be possible to solder one on or not? I am a bit of a dweeb on the tools so have no idea what that would involve.
Another thing I have found is the length of the stems vary from 2.5 to 9 inches, how long are your stems? ;)

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...item=7533997054
 

warrenlw63

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Brizbrew,

Did you query with the seller if it's threaded? It looks the same as the thermo I won on Ebay (Trerice) or the Sundial as Borret likes to call it. :lol:

Mine is identical 5" dial and a 6" stem. As for soldering I'd say no. It wouldn't be possible or practical for that matter.

Here's a photo of mine in the HLT.

Warren -

DSC00123.JPG
 

Borret

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Warren,

Does it still work at night or only under a full moon? :lol:

Borret
 

Borret

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I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of my 2 smaller sundials from the states. I found what I was after on ebay but noticed the photo was of 4 boxes not 1. So I asked the seller and he has/had 11 of these units .(dual scale 0-250deg f/-20 to 120 c 3 inch dial with 4 inch stem.) He ended up setting a special auction for me for the 2 including delivery for 36 US$. (bargain :beerbang: ) He said he'd send me a list of what was left so I could pas it on to all here but I still haven't get the list. My termometers should be on the boat by now. :rolleyes:
The 2 coming are destined for HLT and kettle. If I am to install one on the MT I think I would prefer the mega sundial like Warrens. That way it can double as a lid :p .

Borret :blink:
 

Borret

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Sorry, I should also answer your question. You may notice that most of the units will say they have been sealed tig welded the thread. If there is no thread then the onlyother way would be to braze the stainless body and IMHO I would not be prepared to rely on the thermometer as accurate after subjecting it to these temperatures required for braizing stainless, let alone what it would do to the lense in such close proximity. It would be a pretty agricultural approach to a precision instrument.

Cheers

Borret. :blink:
 

sintax69

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you could always get a nipple that will fit over the shaft and packit with epoxy putty "Neadit" its called in bunnings sets like a rock can only but try
 

Linz

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or a stainless or brass compression fitting with a threaded section on the other end
 

warrenlw63

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Borret said:
Warren,

Does it still work at night or only under a full moon? :lol:

Borret
[post="69286"][/post]​
Bwahaha! Ha! Ha! Hardy Ha! :lol: Tis me that shall have the last laugh when equinox strikes. My garage points west and my HLT :wacko:

(thunder and further evil laugh)

Warren -
 

warrenlw63

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Sorry Borret,

Forgot to tell you. I've been toying with the idea of sticking this one on the mash tun? Whaddayareckon?? :p

Warren -

uco7.jpg
 

homebrewworld.com

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Warren,
It should be o.k as long as it has a thread for the back-nut.
:p
 

Batz

Batz Brewery...Hand crafted beers from the 'Batcav
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I have some very nice gauges , these have a nut with a compression olive fitting so the stem can be pushed in as far or little as required.

Why not do it this way , the dial head on these are swivel as well.

( No you can't have one Kenny )

Batz
 

Justin

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For gods sake dont weld or solder them-you'll bugger them up.

Do as batz has done and use a compression fitting. Get a compression fitting to suit the diameter of your stem (usually 1/4"). Drill out the centre of the compression fitting so the stem will pass the whole way through.

Drill a whole in your keg and mount the compression fitting to it, using an extra nut that you have aquired from somewhere else. This leaves you with the compression nut and olive on the outside of the keg, as yet unused. Throw away the copper or nylon olive (well stick it in your tool box for another job). Buy a suitable oring instead, slide the compression nut onto the stem then the oring. Now pass the stem through the compression fitting and tighten the compression nut gently on the oring. As the compression nut compresses the oring it will seal.

I've tried to describe this as best I can, hopefully it's good enough.

This works.

Cheers, Justin
 

Brizbrew

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Justin said:
For gods sake dont weld or solder them-you'll bugger them up.

Do as batz has done and use a compression fitting. Get a compression fitting to suit the diameter of your stem (usually 1/4"). Drill out the centre of the compression fitting so the stem will pass the whole way through.

Drill a whole in your keg and mount the compression fitting to it, using an extra nut that you have aquired from somewhere else. This leaves you with the compression nut and olive on the outside of the keg, as yet unused. Throw away the copper or nylon olive (well stick it in your tool box for another job). Buy a suitable oring instead, slide the compression nut onto the stem then the oring. Now pass the stem through the compression fitting and tighten the compression nut gently on the oring. As the compression nut compresses the oring it will seal.

I've tried to describe this as best I can, hopefully it's good enough.

This works.

Cheers, Justin
[post="69326"][/post]​
I get the basic idea here but fail to fully understand, I am sure I will be able to get there with this description though.

I will print this out and take it to the plumbing supplies place and tell them what I want to do, I guess they will help out a bit.

Cheers. :beerbang:
 

Justin

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Here is a quick Word document photo I whipped up. Hope it explains it better.

Cheers.

P.S. Depending, you may have to add another oring between the keg wall and compression fitting to form a seal. Or use a rubber washer or just silicone.

View attachment Weldless_thermometer_mounting.doc
 

Borret

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Or you could save yourself the hassle/complexity and buy or make a Thermowell to suit it. That way you have no orings or mismatching olives to worry about, just what industry uses. :p

Just another alternative.

Borret :blink:
 

AndrewQLD

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Borret and justin,

2 great posts, well done, both links are going in my brew folder for future reference.

Andrew
 

PeterS

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Borret said:
Or you could save yourself the hassle/complexity and buy or make a Thermowell to suit it. That way you have no orings or mismatching olives to worry about, just what industry uses. :p

Just another alternative.

Borret :blink:
[post="69357"][/post]​
Borrett. Thank you for the excellent article. I have been toying with just such an idea. I was wondering how to multitask my thermometer. It would be a shame to buy more than one if it would be cost effective to use a thermocouple. Tne next task is to work out the costs.

:chug:
PeterS....
 

sintax69

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Brizbrew
When you go to the wholesale ask them about using a binda point its like this self sealing rubber and brass fitting that you can push a temp probe thru and when you pull it out it seals its self up again dont know what size they goto but they use them at work with a fluke probe
 

Justin

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I thought thermowells were pretty dear? Given one of my Teltru's came with one but when I priced 3" dial thermometers from Ambit Instruments ($90 each) the thermowell to suit was nearly the price of the thermometer if I remember correctly.

Anyway, worth finding out.

Cheers, JD
 

Borret

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I don't think I would ever purchase a thermowell.
I would go down the path of making one though if the need arose. The only issue would be getting through the stainless with a long series drill. Doesn't sound like fun. However you could probably fabricate one pretty easily from the right size tube.

Cheers
Borret
 
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