The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

[zwitter]

Hi LesPaul

I detest the use of blue and green representing active, why not use grey, purple, orange etc!

The blue "wire" is the better alternative. I do not have more than 2 wires in any of the crimp terminals.

Zwitter

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[LiquidCurrency]

Ok, so im having a little trouble deciphering this.

Is it possible to wire the active up with 2 wires out of the SSR, as per diagram ive drawn?

I just cant fit the 3 wires into the spade fitting as per original diagram, outlined in yellow.

This would then mean i dont have to wire the purple wire in the diagram.

edit: also for the new red line ive drawn (not straight line) can i just use the low amp speaker cable, or do i use the 2.5mm twin and earth cable?

Thanks

I'm wondering if when using a smaller cable to power the power supply of it should be separately fused?
Thoughts anyone?

 

[lespaul]

haha i knew someone wouldn't like blue/green! but paint only has limited abilities!!!
ok it is wired as per the "blue" wire... except the blue wire is actually red

 

[real_beer]

haha i knew someone wouldn't like blue/green! but paint only has limited abilities!!!
ok it is wired as per the "blue" wire... except the blue wire is actually red

lp how can you even wire one up when the buy list shows you haven't even received yours yet?

 

[zwitter]

Liquid currency

No, no need for fuses. If it goes bang you did something wrong. The house fuses should save you.

I strongly recommend you have safety switch(s) installed on everything. Has saved me and some friends due to bad wiring in the house. No earth bonds, no earth in lights or half the power circuits. (My house had 336mA in the earth joint?)

Always better safe than sorry. And get a licensed Sparky to do that.

James

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[matt211181]

Having a couple of issues, and wondering if anyone else is experiencing the same....

First is, I think I'm getting the "screen scrambling" due to EMI (?) when the pump switches (mentioned in Lael and James' wiring video). When it happens, a series if jibberish letters run across the display from right to left (?). It doesn't happen all the time (it seems to be intermittent) and I can't always repeat it, but when it does occur, it always happens when the pump has been switched on or off. I have tried to keep the 12V and 240V wiring separate as best I can as mentioned in Lael and James' wiring video - but my wiring is not as neat as James', and the wiring becomes a bit of a mash when the box is put together! Any ideas how I could fix this? Is there specific wiring I should be trying to separate? i.e. is the interference caused between the 240V active going to-from the pump relay and the 12V power supply wiring, and so should I try to separate these specifically, or is it just all 240 and 12V wiring in general. My sparky also suggested putting some corrugated split tubing over the 12V power supply and SSR wiring coming from the board to provide some some additional physical separation - but this hasn't seemed to help the interference issue....

Also, does anyone know what is actually happening with the software when the screen scrambling occurs? e.g., if the screen scrambles say, when the pump switches back on after mash-in (as occurred in one of my tests last night), does the programmed mash sequence keep running as normal, but just with a scrambled screen - or has the whole program 'crashed' once the scrambling happens?

Second issue I think might be software related (I have upgraded to the latest ArdBir version). If I'm in manual mode, and in settings I have the temp probe location set to "internal" and 'pump on boil' set to "off", the pump will switch off once the temperature gets to 80 deg (with 'pump on boil' set to "off", the setting to set the maximum temperature before the pump switches off is disabled - but it appears to be set at 80deg by default?). However, if I go back into settings, set 'pump on boil' set to "on", and then 'pump stop' to "100 deg", then the pump will run to temperatures over 80 deg. So, it seems I can't set the pump to be off during the boil in the settings, but have the pump running when the temp is over 80deg (when switching heat and pump in manual mode that is). Anyone else experience this?

Cheers
Matt

 

[real_beer]

BobCharlie

I'd just concentrate on the main issue first then once that's sorted out move on from there. Make your wires as short as possible, having the pull out connectors makes this a lot easier to do that the original controller design. Having less wire mass in your box should really help. If your having trouble working with stiff wire try using a more flexible option as it's a lot easier too push out of the way, hope this helps.

Even though the screen scrambles the controller will remember where you were when you switched it off and on again and will ask you if you want to pick up from your last session.

 

[matt211181]

Thanks for the advice real_beer, much appreciated! I will try shortening some of the wiring and hopefully that will help. My 12V wiring could be trimmed a bit as it's quite long to allow the lid to sit beside the box, but the rest is pretty short already. I'll try it and see how it goes.

Thanks again!

 

[lespaul]

what is the likely temperature of the heat sink? im just sussing out the silicone options

 

[real_beer]

what is the likely temperature of the heat sink? im just sussing out the silicone options

Any silicone will be okay temperature wise. If your using a tube of it, just pick one that's most suitable to the materials your using it on. If your making your own gasket something like a silicone cake tray from Red Dot works great.

 

[zwitter]

Hi BobCharlie

The scrambling is caused by the switching of the pump. Next to the relay is a yellow block and a resistor. These are a snubbing circuit across the switch of the relay to try to absorb (quench) the spark caused by switching of the pump. SSRs are often zero crossing switches so when the AC voltage is zero it turns the output on and likewise off at a zero point. That effectively makes no switching noise. EMI

In testing we used manual mode and toggled the pump on and off and watched the display for the scramble. We basically thought it was all but totally eliminated.

To minimise we put the snubber in and kept the 240v wiring away from the PCB and the low voltage side of the circuit.

If and only if you are totally safe with tjis suggestion should you do dtnis in t,he company of a sparky. Does the LCD scramble when the lid is not fixed to the base of the box? Ie sitting next to it? I ask as if the wires in the bottom of the box poke upwards near thePCB then that is not good and could cause issues. If you see mine all wires are short and directed away from the PCB. The wire to the relay circuit acts like a transmission antenna so must be short and away from the LCD and PCB.

There are some alternatives but 99% of the problem was as simple as neat separated wiring.

What pump are you using? Can you post or send photos of your unit.

James
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[matt211181]

Hi BobCharlie

The scrambling is caused by the switching of the pump. Next to the relay is a yellow block and a resistor. These are a snubbing circuit across the switch of the relay to try to absorb (quench) the spark caused by switching of the pump. SSRs are often zero crossing switches so when the AC voltage is zero it turns the output on and likewise off at a zero point. That effectively makes no switching noise. EMI

In testing we used manual mode and toggled the pump on and off and watched the display for the scramble. We basically thought it was all but totally eliminated.

To minimise we put the snubber in and kept the 240v wiring away from the PCB and the low voltage side of the circuit.

If and only if you are totally safe with tjis suggestion should you do dtnis in t,he company of a sparky. Does the LCD scramble when the lid is not fixed to the base of the box? Ie sitting next to it? I ask as if the wires in the bottom of the box poke upwards near thePCB then that is not good and could cause issues. If you see mine all wires are short and directed away from the PCB. The wire to the relay circuit acts like a transmission antenna so must be short and away from the LCD and PCB.

There are some alternatives but 99% of the problem was as simple as neat separated wiring.

What pump are you using? Can you post or send photos of your unit.

James
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Thanks a lot for the explanation James! I haven't tried to cause the scrambling issue with the case open yet (to see if it's related to the wiring being up close to the PCB). FYI - I'm using a March pump.

A couple of pics of the wiring below:




Let me know if you think I could make some improvements to the wiring to help with the scrambling issue.

Cheers!
Matt

 

[zwitter]

Hi Matt

I have a march 809 and a chugger and we also tested with another similar pump and there was little difference between them.

I would suggest pushing the 240 v wiring down in the case and try not to have them crossing the low voltage lines. I grouped the low voltage lines together and also cable tied the pump wires together and then kept one on one side of the box and the other at the other side.

Do you use 2 elements?
Dont tell any one but it is possible to use the second SSR to drive the pump. Or it is possible to install a small SSR but that does require soldering irons and tech know how. And really not necessary.

There is another solution and that is to edit the software to refresh the display after turning pump on or off. I think it would be easier to improve the hardware / wiring first.

It is also possible to install shielding and modify the snubber values.

Interested in the lid open tests. Also if any other folks have this issue.



James


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[breakbeer]

Just thought I'd show off my colour coded cables.

Orange = Power In

Red = Heating element

Blue = Pump

 

[breakbeer]

And heres a pic of my wiring, just waiting for my sparky mate to look over it before I fire it up

 

[real_beer]

Just thought I'd show off my colour coded cables.

Orange = Power In

Red = Heating element

Blue = Pump

ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1448005407.359771.jpg

Luckily you used orange and not green or you'd have given zwitter a nervous breakdown :lol:
Looks great bb :icon_cheers:

 

[zwitter]

Hey Real Beer

Been there done that

Actually the outer sheath can be any colour you like. I have purple for elements orange for power and black for the pump but have to go find some heavier duty cable for the new controller and bigger rig.

James


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[SBOB]

Finally set mine up to test run the heater and pump and validate the temperature reading..

Am I right in that the temp is only accurate to 0.5c? Running in manual and it jumps 0.5c steps so I'm guessing the resolution of the temperature is ±/— 0.5c?

Couldnt find any reference to it with a quick search on my phone

 

[real_beer]

Hey Real Beer

Been there done that

zwitter I hope I haven't upset you with my post it was just meant as a joke. I apologise if it has.

 

[sluggerdog]

I have a question, I think it's probably a PID setting but I'm not sure what they all mean exactly.

Everything is working well with my controller however it seems to be sitting on 1/2 degree short of each step. e.g. 62.5c for upto 10 mins while it slowly tries to get to 63c.

Any idea what setting I could tweak to have the heat go a little longer when it flashes off and on?

I'm in 2.8.3

Thanks