The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

[MastersBrewery]

ok see the blue square at the bottom right of your last pic, it is a pot, when powered turn the pot to adjust brightness, I say this as the back light might be getting more power when connected to 12v than when connected via usb. Just something else to try.

MB

 

[SBOB]

thought I should also add this to the build thread... kind of important (and cant edit the first post)

Please Note!
All of the screw in terminals are positive on the left(+ or red) and negative (- or black) on the right(when looking at the back of the board with the writing on it).

Data cable is white for data for the temp probe. If you mess up the temp probe - you will kill it. Don't do that!

If you swap the 12v in to the board( the +ve into the -ve port) you will kill the Brauduino shield. Don't do that!

 

[crozdog]

Just wondering what pumps everyone is planning to use?

I have a March 809, but will probably save it for my regular brewing duties.

I have found a few of possible units:
240v
1. Fullpint has the chugger @$249 4.1m head, 22.7l/m flow & 1/2" mpt thread
http://www.fullpint.com.au/chugger-inline-pump/
2. Fullpint has a no name magnetic drive @$69 3.4m head, 19l/m flow & 1/2" bps threads. upgrade to a SS head for $39 extra
http://www.fullpint.com.au/high-temperature-magnetic-drive-pump-with-1-2-bsp/

12v
1. Barleyman has the little brown pump for $24. It has 1/2" bsp thread
http://www.barleyman.com.au/products/brewing-gear/little-brown-pump.html
2. Ebay has a 10l/m 6m head with 1/2" bsp thread for USD$45 inc shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/Food-grade-pump-hot-water-brew-pump-and-circulation-brewing-water-pump-no-noise-/281805852991

Anyone used any of these or have heard anything about em especially the no name mag drive from full pint ?

Also, I am interested to see how everyone plans to do their plumbing including the output to a tap and if you will restrict the flow out of the pump back to the malt pipe as full flow may be too much. Please post your ideas / thoughts / drawings / pics of your setup.

Beers

Croz

 

[breakbeer]

Can someone please let me know what size spade terminals I need to buy?

 

[Rambo]

4.8mm

 

[real_beer]

Just wondering what pumps everyone is planning to use?

I have a March 809, but will probably save it for my regular brewing duties.

Also, I am interested to see how everyone plans to do their plumbing including the output to a tap and if you will restrict the flow out of the pump back to the malt pipe as full flow may be too much. Please post your ideas / thoughts / drawings / pics of your setup.

Beers

Croz

Croz, I have a few different pumps that I keep for backup but I use my March 809 as a plug & play unit between my different systems and it works great.
Unless your brewing with all your systems at once it's a great solution to use. I'd guess most people on normal household electricity supplies would only use one system at at time anyway.

 

[peterl1981]

Just wondering what pumps everyone is planning to use?

I have a March 809, but will probably save it for my regular brewing duties.

I have found a few of possible units:
240v
1. Fullpint has the chugger @$249 4.1m head, 22.7l/m flow & 1/2" mpt thread
http://www.fullpint.com.au/chugger-inline-pump/
2. Fullpint has a no name magnetic drive @$69 3.4m head, 19l/m flow & 1/2" bps threads. upgrade to a SS head for $39 extra
http://www.fullpint.com.au/high-temperature-magnetic-drive-pump-with-1-2-bsp/

12v
1. Barleyman has the little brown pump for $24. It has 1/2" bsp thread
http://www.barleyman.com.au/products/brewing-gear/little-brown-pump.html
2. Ebay has a 10l/m 6m head with 1/2" bsp thread for USD$45 inc shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/Food-grade-pump-hot-water-brew-pump-and-circulation-brewing-water-pump-no-noise-/281805852991

Anyone used any of these or have heard anything about em especially the no name mag drive from full pint ?

Also, I am interested to see how everyone plans to do their plumbing including the output to a tap and if you will restrict the flow out of the pump back to the malt pipe as full flow may be too much. Please post your ideas / thoughts / drawings / pics of your setup.

Beers

Croz

I been running the no name silver bullet for acouple of years.. no problems and its alot quieter then the march 809..
For $70 its great value..
I use it on both my systems just got same plug on both as im never brewing 2 batches at a time.

 

[sluggerdog]

ok see the blue square at the bottom right of your last pic, it is a pot, when powered turn the pot to adjust brightness, I say this as the back light might be getting more power when connected to 12v than when connected via usb. Just something else to try.

MB

Thanks, I don't think this is the issue after some more testing.

I took a super rough video of the start up screen to show what is happening from the time I turn it on. The temp probe wasn't plugged in this time but when it is there are no issues with it. Seems to read well.

VIDEO: https://goo.gl/photos/3SZqtp1FeRTFKeS68

Also to note which is separate one of my SSRs doesn't see to work. The one connected to the second input doesn't light up.

 

[MastersBrewery]

Thanks, I don't think this is the issue after some more testing.

I took a super rough video of the start up screen to show what is happening from the time I turn it on. The temp probe wasn't plugged in this time but when it is there are no issues with it. Seems to read well.

VIDEO: https://goo.gl/photos/3SZqtp1FeRTFKeS68

Also to note which is separate one of my SSRs doesn't see to work. The one connected to the second input doesn't light up.

ok so even though I've been packing up to move I took some time to do a check, and mine was fine so it may well be a minor fault . Lael did make sure he had a spare or two so get in contact with him.

MB

 

[real_beer]

Thanks, I don't think this is the issue after some more testing.

I took a super rough video of the start up screen to show what is happening from the time I turn it on. The temp probe wasn't plugged in this time but when it is there are no issues with it. Seems to read well.

VIDEO: https://goo.gl/photos/3SZqtp1FeRTFKeS68

Also to note which is separate one of my SSRs doesn't see to work. The one connected to the second input doesn't light up.

Have you tried pushing any of the buttons before the screen starts flickering?

 

[dblunn]

Hi Slugger, how is your shielding on the temp probe? I had a ground loop on my set-up that did similar things when I hooked up the temp probe in the HEX (4V system).
Regards, Dave

 

[SBOB]

Fun day of wiring today with the house to myself (and the NBA in the background). Not as neat as zwitter's, but it does the job.

For those trying this at home, I would suggest setting a side a decent chunk of time if you are trying to do a 'neatish' job. I think this ended up being something in the order of 4 hours including pre-wiring planning, isolated 12V transformer/arduino test, full wiring, multi-meter testing/verification and final power up (and a bit of time watching some NBA #dubnation)

I only swore a few times, which is massively less than if I had to plan this box/parts/wiring out myself from scratch, so A+ for Lael's effort, planning and end product


*nothing in the attached image should be taken as a reference for work you are attempting yourself. For all you know it was done by my pet monkey.

 

[sluggerdog]

Hi Slugger, how is your shielding on the temp probe? I had a ground loop on my set-up that did similar things when I hooked up the temp probe in the HEX (4V system).
Regards, Dave

Hey,

Is there is a shield on the probe cable and if there is where do we terminate it?

Thanks

 

[barneey]

Just wondering what pumps everyone is planning to use?

I have a March 809, but will probably save it for my regular brewing duties.

I have found a few of possible units:
240v
1. Fullpint has the chugger @$249 4.1m head, 22.7l/m flow & 1/2" mpt thread
http://www.fullpint.com.au/chugger-inline-pump/
2. Fullpint has a no name magnetic drive @$69 3.4m head, 19l/m flow & 1/2" bps threads. upgrade to a SS head for $39 extra
http://www.fullpint.com.au/high-temperature-magnetic-drive-pump-with-1-2-bsp/

12v
1. Barleyman has the little brown pump for $24. It has 1/2" bsp thread
http://www.barleyman.com.au/products/brewing-gear/little-brown-pump.html
2. Ebay has a 10l/m 6m head with 1/2" bsp thread for USD$45 inc shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/Food-grade-pump-hot-water-brew-pump-and-circulation-brewing-water-pump-no-noise-/281805852991

Anyone used any of these or have heard anything about em especially the no name mag drive from full pint ?

Also, I am interested to see how everyone plans to do their plumbing including the output to a tap and if you will restrict the flow out of the pump back to the malt pipe as full flow may be too much. Please post your ideas / thoughts / drawings / pics of your setup.

Beers

Croz

I'm using the original style BM pumps, no idea if anyone stocks them in Aus but have a search for

Laing ecocirc E1vario-15/700 B

 

[SBOB]

Just wondering what pumps everyone is planning to use?

I have a March 809, but will probably save it for my regular brewing duties.

Kegking pump + stainless steel head.. was about $100 for the two (via an ebay discount deal a while ago)

For the price, I think its hard to beat (and plenty of positive reviews of them when they were Kaixin branded from China)

 

[Ferg]

Fun day of wiring today with the house to myself (and the NBA in the background). Not as neat as zwitter's, but it does the job.

For those trying this at home, I would suggest setting a side a decent chunk of time if you are trying to do a 'neatish' job. I think this ended up being something in the order of 4 hours including pre-wiring planning, isolated 12V transformer/arduino test, full wiring, multi-meter testing/verification and final power up (and a bit of time watching some NBA #dubnation)

I only swore a few times, which is massively less than if I had to plan this box/parts/wiring out myself from scratch, so A+ for Lael's effort, planning and end product


*nothing in the attached image should be taken as a reference for work you are attempting yourself. For all you know it was done by my pet monkey.

Just wondering what crimp terminal you used to connect to the ssr?
Given its a little tight for space in there did you use something standard and then bend it 90 degrees so the wire comes out vertically or is there a terminal that works that I haven't thought of?

 

[dblunn]

Hey,

Is there is a shield on the probe cable and if there is where do we terminate it?

Thanks

On mine there was, I used the bolt in type into a T piece so the hot liquid would flow past it (I got it from sure electronics, they have an eBay store). If yours has a shield it will be easy to spot, there is +5V Ground, data and the forth one if present will be the shield. In my case I made sure the shield went right up to the input to the arduino (ie passed through the connector which in my case was a 4 pin microphone jobbie) but not connected to the ground on the arduino. I also put some 1nF bypass capacitors across the 5V to ground and the data line to ground (can use monolithic of ceramic disc types). I also passed the data line through a small ferrite bead. I'm not sure which thing actually stopped the misbehaviour but I figured I use the shot gun approach. Anyway, the bypass caps and the ferrite bead reduces noise on the data line and having the shielding all the way to the input but not actually connected to the arduino breaks the ground loop which also reduces electrical noise getting into the microcomputer.
Hope my ramblings help. Dave

 

[SBOB]

Just wondering what crimp terminal you used to connect to the ssr?
Given its a little tight for space in there did you use something standard and then bend it 90 degrees so the wire comes out vertically or is there a terminal that works that I haven't thought of?

standard ones from jaycar and bent after terminating... it was a bit fiddly getting them in there (they made up one or 2 of the expletives said during the build). In hindsight simply terminating the bare cables in the screw connectors would have worked just as well but I was going for terminations

 

[lael]

Seems to be a few people asking in the buy thread so, as no one else has done it... How about we use this for build/advice/technical questions that are bound to be plentiful over the coming weeks. If it turns out everyone keeps using the buy thread then I'll copy paste this post as a 'summary' so far to there

Stealing some useful info from the current buy thread with references to those people that posted them.

Default disclaimer (quoting Lael):
It is your responsibility to confirm with your electrician that this is in fact a safe way to wire the controller and to certify the wiring job that is done on the controller. 240v can kill. Don't risk it.

Build videos by Lael:



240v wiring example by Lael:





Build word doc by Zwitter:

Just stopping by to say Wow! Nice work! Thanks for starting the build thread - brilliant idea - and James - your wiring puts mine to shame Thank you so much for putting that document together it looks great!

 

[lael]

Oh, just one note - I personally chose to put the the main power in at the top of the box (looking at the back), and aux power in at the left next to the heatsink and the aux heat out underneath it next to the heatsink. Main pump on the right of the box (away from the heatsink) and the main heat at the bottom.

The reason is - I find it makes it easiest to undo the main power to the unit (assuming there is not an SSR failure and the box is wired correctly) which *should* turn off all heating and pump outputs. It also means the heat outs are both at the bottom of the power outs. There is very limited space to fit everything in the box, so you will notice the power sockets next to the heatsink are a little tight to get in and out, hence why I use the ones to the right at the edge of the box for my main ones (1 pump, 1 heat out).

As James commented in his document - whatever you do - LABEL the inputs and outputs so you know what they are and stay safe as you build. 240v can kill. If you are not an electrician, get it built or checked by one before you use it. Beer is not worth dying for