The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

[lael]

OK, Thanks for waiting for these - Wiring Videos!

https://youtu.be/3qyy9YIK9tA

https://youtu.be/zpeHHUmGcak

I've posted these on both threads as I know a lot of people are subscribed to the buy thread that are not subscribed to the build thread.

 

[zwitter]

Great work Lael !!!

OK a bit of self promotion in there too.

I noticed one error in what I said but is a technical error of nomenclature.

And yes they are my chickens in the background learning how to wire the Brauduino! Actually they love the Malt ex mash.....

zwitter

 

[The Judge]

The same behaviour is not present in v 2.6.7 which is what most units shipped with.

Guys, just confirming that the user manual for v 2.6.7 is as per v 2.6.62 in the dropbox link here?

 

[Cervantes]

Guys, just confirming that the user manual for v 2.6.7 is as per v 2.6.62 in the dropbox link here?

Thanks for that.

I downloaded the English version, but unfortunately it was all Greek to me.

I'm hoping that I won't need to get into any programing and that the controller will work out of the box. Can anyone confirm this.

 

[SBOB]

Thanks for that.

I downloaded the English version, but unfortunately it was all Greek to me.

I'm hoping that I won't need to get into any programing and that the controller will work out of the box. Can anyone confirm this.

you will need to go through the setup process to set some values/params..
I think Lael/Zwitter had plans to make one of these guides/vids (along with a software update one)??

 

[matt211181]

This might help if anyone else is trying to mount the temp probe in-line......I picked up a brass plug from the big green shed for $2 and bored out the inside by about 1-2mm on a mates lathe, and drilled a 10mm hole through the top:

 

[sluggerdog]

I didn't have the option of being able to bore out the inside of the 15mm plug so I am planning the following, I bought the parts yesterday and will drill it out today:


20mm cap (10mm hole drilled though this)

20mm x 15mm reducer

Then into the standard 1/2 BSP t-piece.

Similar result to BobCharlie in the end though just another option for those who do not have the ability to bore out the normal plug.

I also found these same parts on ebay from china which are on their way but the brass will work until they finally turn up.

ebay reducer and ebay cap

 

[SBOB]

This might help if anyone else is trying to mount the temp probe in-line......I picked up a brass plug from the big green shed for $2 and bored out the inside by about 1-2mm on a mates lathe, and drilled a 10mm hole through the top:

and when will you start selling these?

 

[lael]

Quick Video on how to update the 'sketch' on your Brauduino Controller:
https://youtu.be/JzG7AXbyvsU

 

[lespaul]

So the "speaker cable" I got is figure 8 7.5 amp rated cable. Is this the same as the cable mentioned in the video for the SSR?
Also the brown flex cable doesn't say what amps it is. Would 10 amp be fine or should I go for the 20 amp?
As a side I got the 2.5mm twin and earth for the other wiring
Thanks

 

[SBOB]

Quick Video on how to update the 'sketch' on your Brauduino Controller:
https://youtu.be/JzG7AXbyvsU

and for any mac users:
Library file location is "Documents\Adruino\libraries" (dump OneWire and PID_v1 folders in here. Mine didnt detect it first attempt but did the second)

 

[SBOB]

So the "speaker cable" I got is figure 8 7.5 amp rated cable. Is this the same as the cable mentioned in the video for the SSR?

Can't remember what Lael/Zwitter mentioned in the vid but thats plenty as its only carrying a low voltage (12v) switching signal to the control side of the SSR to turn the SSR on/off on the load side

Also the brown flex cable doesn't say what amps it is. Would 10 amp be fine or should I go for the 20 amp?

Thats purely for running the pump so 10Amp is plenty/overkill (even a March 809 pump only draws less than 1Amp)

 

[zwitter]

Hey Lepaul

What SBOB said

The signal side of the SSRs from the PCB is milli amps. So bugger all and any small cable will do.

For the power feed to the power supply also very little current. I used 7.5Amp odd 240 v figure 8 and is over kill

For the power to and back from the relay for the pump use the 7.5Amp figure 8. It will be more than enough for any pump.

Only the main power in and heater out and the connections to the 240v side of the SSRs needs to be 20Amp

Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[lespaul]

Thanks!

 

[real_beer]

QUOTE:
Quick Video on how to update the 'sketch' on your Brauduino Controller:
https://youtu.be/JzG7AXbyvsU
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Another great job well done lael :icon_cheers:

 

[lael]

Here we go:

A quick video to show you how to run through set up on your Brauduino Controller.

Cheers!

https://youtu.be/C_HDUacxeNs

Let me know if there is anything else you want to see / know how to do

 

[bigmacthepunker]

Hey Lepaul



For the power feed to the power supply also very little current. I used 7.5Amp odd 240 v figure 8 and is over kill

For the power to and back from the relay for the pump use the 7.5Amp figure 8. It will be more than enough for any pump.

Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Just be very careful not to plug the heater into the pump socket. As that will draw more than the circuits can handle and fry the relay and cables.
Cheers
Bigmacthepunker

 

[SBOB]

Here we go:

A quick video to show you how to run through set up on your Brauduino Controller.

Cheers!

https://youtu.be/C_HDUacxeNs

Glad to see that I'm not alone with the invaid chars at the end of the line...
Haven't bothered looking through the code but I imagine its because its not clearing whatever was validly displayed there last

Let me know if there is anything else you want to see / know how to do

Does that include pots, malt pipes and stainless mesh?

 

[ramu_gupta]

Here we go:

A quick video to show you how to run through set up on your Brauduino Controller.

Cheers!

https://youtu.be/C_HDUacxeNs

Let me know if there is anything else you want to see / know how to do

Thanks Lael

Can you explain what the 'Heat in Boil" setting means in the latest software?
What value should it be set at?

Almost finished a test run with water and looking forward to brewing my first beer with it..

 

[SBOB]

Glad to see that I'm not alone with the invaid chars at the end of the line...
Haven't bothered looking through the code but I imagine its because its not clearing whatever was validly displayed there last

so being both bored and OCD in equal parts this morning, the following is what you need to update in the code if you dont want to see the annoying extra character during the PID settings pages

- Open the ArdBir_2_8_3RC8.ino file with whatever version of the Arduino software you are using
- Navigate across the top to the file named 'LCD20x4_ENG.h' (assuming you are using the english language, if you aren't then I havent checked the others)
- Find the routine 'void PidSet(int pidSet, byte i)'
- Find the line (line 2 in the routine) that says 'lcd.setCursor(10, 2);'
- Update it to 'lcd.setCursor(9, 2);'
- Re 'Verify', and 'Upload' the code
(all settings will likely be wiped and need setting again, but the annoying extra character on all the PID pages should now be fixed)

I cant see anywhere in the code that indicates to me that this change will cause any issues, but it goes without saying that 'don't blame me if it breaks anything' Looking at the history of the file it looks like this was broken back in Feb but hasnt been fixed/updated...

Pic attached to show the line needing updating

 

[SBOB]

Thanks Lael

Can you explain what the 'Heat in Boil" setting means in the latest software?
What value should it be set at?

The manual should be able to tell you what each of the settings relate to

In summary its the following
'Heating power percentage applied to heating element during boil.'
Meaning what % of the full power of your heating element is required to maintain a boil
e.g. if you had a 2400w element in something like 30-40 litres it would likely be something ~100%.
If you had a 5000W element in something of the same size it would be much lower as 100% power would be too much heat

I have attached it to save some searching, but
-Its available via their dropbox link if you follow it from their github page - https://github.com/ArdBir/Open-ArdBir

View attachment ArdBir Manual ENG (2.8.x).pdf

 

[ramu_gupta]

The manual should be able to tell you what each of the settings relate to

In summary its the following
'Heating power percentage applied to heating element during boil.'
Meaning what % of the full power of your heating element is required to maintain a boil
e.g. if you had a 2400w element in something like 30-40 litres it would likely be something ~100%.
If you had a 5000W element in something of the same size it would be much lower as 100% power would be too much heat

I have attached it to save some searching, but
-Its available via their dropbox link if you follow it from their github page - https://github.com/ArdBir/Open-ArdBir

Thanks SBOB

My LCD screens calls it "Heat in Boil" and the manual calls it "PWM". Didn't know they were the same..
Will set it for 100% for 2000W element in 28L boil.

Cheers

 

[LiquidCurrency]

Thanks SBOB

My LCD screens calls it "Heat in Boil" and the manual calls it "PWM". Didn't know they were the same..
Will set it for 100% for 2000W element in 28L boil.

Cheers

How can it reduce the Heat In Boil when the element is only running off an SSR? SSR's are simply on and off. Or do they not stay on the whole time and switch a lot more during the boil??

 

[SBOB]

How can it reduce the Heat In Boil when the element is only running off an SSR? SSR's are simply on and off. Or do they not stay on the whole time and switch a lot more during the boil??

They switch on and off quickly, using pulse width modulation (in this instance) is to essentially reduce the average voltage sent to a load
The controllers PID loop essentially turns the SSR on and off multiple times in a second to reduce the power % being produced

• Always on - 100%
• Always off - 0%
• switch on/off at different rates for anywhere in between

Wiki and the Arduino site will explain it in more logical terms than me (most likely )
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/PWM

 

[MastersBrewery]

Breakbeer pmed me regarding the active wiring diagram particularly the 3 connections @ the main power in, this pin connects to 3 locations but can daisy chain, be jumped from one to the next in what ever order best suits you. The attached image has been altered the black line is a deletion.
hope This helps some.

Mike

 

[crozdog]

Thanks Lael & SBOB for the code updating info.

Can 1 of you pls provide the links to the OneWire and PID_v1 libraries?

Also, has there been any progress on sourcing pots for malt pipes & nice thick filter plates (top & bottom)?

​only asking as i have the controller built and want to get to work on the brewery itself.

Beers
Croz

 

[SBOB]

Can 1 of you pls provide the links to the OneWire and PID_v1 libraries?

they are in the links on the youtube video Lael posted


Links:
Arduino Software:
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

Arduino Libraries:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gq9ou60md4j...

ArdBir Dropbox Link:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/96o6i39o50...

 

[crozdog]

Thanks mate.

 

[crozdog]

Thanks mate.


I found
OneWire here
https://github.com/PaulStoffregen/OneWire

and

PID_v1 here
https://github.com/br3ttb/Arduino-PID-Library

 

[MastersBrewery]

Thanks Lael & SBOB for the code updating info.

Can 1 of you pls provide the links to the OneWire and PID_v1 libraries?

Also, has there been any progress on sourcing pots for malt pipes & nice thick filter plates (top & bottom)?

​only asking as i have the controller built and want to get to work on the brewery itself.

Beers
Croz

I've seen the samples Lael has chased down, if I were to build again I'd be waiting on these. Lael has set a high standard with the controller, that hasn't shifted with the rest of the parts he is sourcing. But give the bloke some space to breath, I'm sure he'll post something when he believes it's appropriate and he has his ducks lined up as they should be.
Mike

Ed: bloody phone!!