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The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread
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ramu_gupta
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Thanks zwitter... looking forward to giving it a go.
For someone who failed Electrical Engineering 101, can you clarify what's actually going on in the box? 
From my limited understanding:
The SSRs switch the heating elements on/off (which are instructed by the PCB (or the Arduino? This part I also don't know)).
Given that the pump is such a small load, it is switched on and off by the PCB (no requirement for a 20A SSR).
The power supply transforms 240V to 12V to power the PCB (in theory this could be removed and a USB connection from a computer provided directly to the Arduino?).
The aux power and aux heat don't need to be wired up if you aren't going to use them (but maybe best to do it now for future-proofing).
Additionally, could the aux heat switch be configured to operate a solenoid valve?
From my limited understanding:
The SSRs switch the heating elements on/off (which are instructed by the PCB (or the Arduino? This part I also don't know)).
Given that the pump is such a small load, it is switched on and off by the PCB (no requirement for a 20A SSR).
The power supply transforms 240V to 12V to power the PCB (in theory this could be removed and a USB connection from a computer provided directly to the Arduino?).
The aux power and aux heat don't need to be wired up if you aren't going to use them (but maybe best to do it now for future-proofing).
Additionally, could the aux heat switch be configured to operate a solenoid valve?
The Judge said:For someone who failed Electrical Engineering 101, can you clarify what's actually going on in the box?
From my limited understanding:
The SSRs switch the heating elements on/off (which are instructed by the PCB (or the Arduino? This part I also don't know)).
The SSR's work by
- When an active 12v signal is received on the control side, they switch the power on the load side. So in this case the control side is a 12v signal from the Arduino board and the load side is the 240v connection
This 12v signal can be constant, or in the case of the heater control from the Adruino board, switching on and off at a fast/controlled rate to PWM control the heating element
The wikipedia entry on SSR's provides plenty of basic info to understand how they work
Given that the pump is such a small load, it is switched on and off by the PCB (no requirement for a 20A SSR).
Yes, the PCB contains the relay which is activated when the pump is required
(much lower current requirements and no requirement for any fast switching PWM control either which would likely be both too fast and wear our the relay.. regular relays arent designed for that kind of switching)
The power supply transforms 240V to 12V to power the PCB (in theory this could be removed and a USB connection from a computer provided directly to the Arduino?).
This, along with supplying the voltage for control of the SSRs (via the Arduino board)
The Arduino board can be powered from the USB port (like when the system isnt powered up) but I dont believe this would provide the voltage/current required to operate the ssr and pump relays (someone else can clarify that one for you)
The aux power and aux heat don't need to be wired up if you aren't going to use them (but maybe best to do it now for future-proofing).
Nope. These are unrequired but you may as well wire them up now (or should I say your electrician should) as the extra time is minimal in the scheme of the project
Additionally, could the aux heat switch be configured to operate a solenoid valve?
As they are both controlled from the same 12V source the current board would not have the control outputs to provide you with a third 'control' signal
And you would also need to write the code for this control outputs operation also
Hi Judge
(Sorry SBOB)
The Arduino Mega is basically a computer on a single board. It has a processor, memory for program and inputs and outputs. This is where we load the ArdBir software.
The Brauduino "shield" the bigger green PCB is the bit we have that converts the signals from the Arduino into signals big enough to drive SSRs, relays, LEDs etc.
The shield board only has enough inputs and outputs for the current design. The Arduino Mega has lots more memory and inputs and outputs that have no connection to interface electronics at this time.
You could control other valves, hop droppers etc but will need some extra electronics and have software written to drive it.
There are possibilities for the second SSR and plug and sockets if you never want a dual element system. It would be possible to use the second SSR to drive the pump but at this time it is better to concentrate on the standard build
As to USB to power it sort of works but will not run the SSRs and relay as they use the 12v. The Usb only runs the Arduino and some other bits like the LCD.
Also it could create dangerous situations as far as isolation and not a good idea at all.
Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
(Sorry SBOB)
The Arduino Mega is basically a computer on a single board. It has a processor, memory for program and inputs and outputs. This is where we load the ArdBir software.
The Brauduino "shield" the bigger green PCB is the bit we have that converts the signals from the Arduino into signals big enough to drive SSRs, relays, LEDs etc.
The shield board only has enough inputs and outputs for the current design. The Arduino Mega has lots more memory and inputs and outputs that have no connection to interface electronics at this time.
You could control other valves, hop droppers etc but will need some extra electronics and have software written to drive it.
There are possibilities for the second SSR and plug and sockets if you never want a dual element system. It would be possible to use the second SSR to drive the pump but at this time it is better to concentrate on the standard build
As to USB to power it sort of works but will not run the SSRs and relay as they use the 12v. The Usb only runs the Arduino and some other bits like the LCD.
Also it could create dangerous situations as far as isolation and not a good idea at all.
Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
A quick update - slugger dog sent his unit to me to check out. Finished marking last night and started checking it out. Basically, it looks like there are 2 issues to be aware of.
#1. The SSRs are designed to go DC side to DC in the center so that the AC points are far away from each other. Make sure you notice that the + and - for the dc are on opposite sides where they meet in middle and wire them appropriately.
#2. There seems to be an issue with ardbir 2.8.3 that prevents the heat from switching on. The same behaviour is not present in v 2.6.7 which is what most units shipped with. I'll try to figure out what is going on this weekend.
#1. The SSRs are designed to go DC side to DC in the center so that the AC points are far away from each other. Make sure you notice that the + and - for the dc are on opposite sides where they meet in middle and wire them appropriately.
#2. There seems to be an issue with ardbir 2.8.3 that prevents the heat from switching on. The same behaviour is not present in v 2.6.7 which is what most units shipped with. I'll try to figure out what is going on this weekend.
Hey gang,
So for the guys that have wired this already and used 2.5mm cable, what spade connectors did you use?
The real question I`m asking, I can only find atm 4.8mm for max 2.5mm cable, how`d you fit 20Amp rated cable into that whole? I`m all for tight holes but this one seems a little too tight.
I can find 6.8mm which will do it, did you use that and squash the sides down?
Marksy
So for the guys that have wired this already and used 2.5mm cable, what spade connectors did you use?
The real question I`m asking, I can only find atm 4.8mm for max 2.5mm cable, how`d you fit 20Amp rated cable into that whole? I`m all for tight holes but this one seems a little too tight.
I can find 6.8mm which will do it, did you use that and squash the sides down?
Marksy
tateg
Well-Known Member
Could try these onesmarksy said:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/Wire%2C-Cable-%26-Accessories/Cable-Accessories/Quick-Connect-Terminals/Mini-Female-Spade---Yellow---Pk-8/p/PT4722
Cable entry size 6.6mm.- Wire size 4 - 6mm dia.- Spade width - 4.8mm.- PKT 8...
<- what they saidtateg said:
The colours standards are generally (quick google copy paste):
- Red coloured insulation is for wire sizes 0.5 - 1.5 mm dia,
- Blue coloured insulation suits cables 1.5 - 2.5 mm dia ,
- Yellow coloured insulation is good for 4.0 - 6.0 mm dia
Hi everyone,
It seems that there are quite a few questions re the wiring of the controller.
For general information, there are many ways of expressing wire sizes.
Household electrical wiring dimensions are specified in mm2 (square milli metres). A google search will show the other terms used.
On the other hand the female spade terminals that are being referred to are identified by the diameter of the wire they will accept.
It is a concern to see these two standards (?)being used without clarification.
There is just too much at stake to assume that you think you understand what is meant without reference to correct size/dimensions.
Just my two bobs worth.
Cheers
Bazza B
It seems that there are quite a few questions re the wiring of the controller.
For general information, there are many ways of expressing wire sizes.
Household electrical wiring dimensions are specified in mm2 (square milli metres). A google search will show the other terms used.
On the other hand the female spade terminals that are being referred to are identified by the diameter of the wire they will accept.
It is a concern to see these two standards (?)being used without clarification.
There is just too much at stake to assume that you think you understand what is meant without reference to correct size/dimensions.
Just my two bobs worth.
Cheers
Bazza B
Mine is wired with 2.5mm flex (rated to 20A) with single crimp on connectors (red) they are wired into a terminal block for splitting etc. I think the way Zwitter and others have done it with daisy chained connectors is neatermarksy said:
Wire and crimp,sizing
Wire is the area of the copper conductor. Calculated by calulating the area of a single strand and multiplying by the number of strands. And yes they make 4mm 6mm 10mm etc. average house main wires to the street are 16mm.
Crimp terminals are measured by the width of the terminal. Standard spade is 1/4 inch so about 6.25mm. The ones we use on the sockets are 4.8mm. The insulated terminals we generally use have coloured insulation that tells the size of wire that will fir in the crimp bit. Red, blue and yellow. As i stated in my build instructions the blue will take one 2.5mm and yellow will take 2x 2.5mm cables if you twist them together.
They Are available at Jaycar as that is where mine came from. I would think supacheap or Repco etc will have or can order in.
Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Wire is the area of the copper conductor. Calculated by calulating the area of a single strand and multiplying by the number of strands. And yes they make 4mm 6mm 10mm etc. average house main wires to the street are 16mm.
Crimp terminals are measured by the width of the terminal. Standard spade is 1/4 inch so about 6.25mm. The ones we use on the sockets are 4.8mm. The insulated terminals we generally use have coloured insulation that tells the size of wire that will fir in the crimp bit. Red, blue and yellow. As i stated in my build instructions the blue will take one 2.5mm and yellow will take 2x 2.5mm cables if you twist them together.
They Are available at Jaycar as that is where mine came from. I would think supacheap or Repco etc will have or can order in.
Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Hi brauduino brewers
ArdBir 2.8.3RC8 heater problems.
There are no issues with this revision. The problem AFAIK is that you have not run setup and entered correct values.
I just uploaded mine and it would not heat (as expected)
Then went into setup and guess what set for GAS heating! ( i bet most of you never. Even knew that was an option)
I Set to electric and Fahrenheit to Celsius etc and it tuns elements on as expected
Therefore i will state that the error is between the chair and the keyboard.........
I think I have said this before
YOU MUST RUN THE SETUP
And again after software reloads etc
Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
ArdBir 2.8.3RC8 heater problems.
There are no issues with this revision. The problem AFAIK is that you have not run setup and entered correct values.
I just uploaded mine and it would not heat (as expected)
Then went into setup and guess what set for GAS heating! ( i bet most of you never. Even knew that was an option)
I Set to electric and Fahrenheit to Celsius etc and it tuns elements on as expected
Therefore i will state that the error is between the chair and the keyboard.........
I think I have said this before
YOU MUST RUN THE SETUP
And again after software reloads etc
Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
#3 - If you are using twin and earth for your 240v side, make sure that it is not sticking up too high in the box. Fitting everything in one relatively small box was hard. There is about an inch between the back of the power sockets and the back of the Arduino Mega. If your twin and earth sits high and pushes against the arduino mega, it can push it off the pins and cause a loose fit and potentially arcing (will destroy your arduino). Twin and earth has fewer, more solid cores. It is slightly more rigid, which allows you to 'shape' the wire. Flex has a lot more thinner strands and is... more flexible - but it also can't be 'shaped'. Choose wisely. Make sure there isn't pressure pushing your arduino off its pins.lael said:
Have fun building!
oh of course - stay safe, get everything built / checked by an electrician
peterl1981
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zwitter said:
Yeah zwitter i brewed on Saturday with no problems with the 2.8.3rc8 version new controller rocks
Cervantes
Well-Known Member
What's the difference between the two revisions.lynchman said:
I'm technically challenged, so if there isn't a huge difference between the two version and the controller work with the old version, then I'll probably just stick with that.
What are the advantages of upgrading to the new version?
Thanks
breakbeer
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Might just get this guy to wire up my controller
https://www.facebook.com/809916069040342/videos/1141335119231767/
What could go wrong
https://www.facebook.com/809916069040342/videos/1141335119231767/
What could go wrong
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