The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

[Mister Wilson]

Wrapped to finally have this in my hands.

I have not started on the 240v side of things but hit a little hurdle with the pump/heater LEDs. I have the buttons all connected but when I start up via USB the pump LED lights up fine but the heater one doesn't light up despite it registering on the screen.

I swapped the LEDs around just to rule out a faulty LED and the red one lit up when I was pushing the pump button. So it doesn't seem to be an LED problem just wonder if the board has some sort of fault or if there is something else that can be done.

 

[SBOB]

I have the buttons all connected but when I start up via USB the pump LED lights up fine but the heater one doesn't light up despite it registering on the screen.

my led's didn't work first time as I hadn't pushed them in far enough. The heater one was getting slightly caught on the board above meaning it didn't connect properly (I had already mounted the board to the front panel making plugging them in a little harder than it should have been)

 

[Kingy]

I had the same problem with mine as I didn't want to force them on. Fixed the problem by pushing them right in.
I'm only new to these things but playing around in the mash step profiles I can't seem to set the temp lower than 68degrees but I'm sure it's operater error.

 

[lespaul]

First up, I have no idea about electronics/electrics, but I'm planning on wiring this up and then getting a qualified sparky to check it... Learning experience

Just sat down to have a crack and it was over before it began... Only 3 hex screws.

So I'm going down to alronics to get some more, but while I'm down there I was going to get some lugs. http://www.altronics.com.au/p/h1991a-red-4.8mm-female-spade-crimp-pk-10/. Do these look like the right ones to be getting?

Do I just need 2, one for each of the SSRs for grounding?

Also I have some "2&e tps" wire, but it's 4mm. Will only have 10a running (single 2400w element and pump). No good?

Rookie question I'm sure, but thanks for the help!!!!

 

[SBOB]

http://www.altronics.com.au/p/h1991a-red-4.8mm-female-spade-crimp-pk-10/. Do these look like the right ones to be getting?

Do I just need 2, one for each of the SSRs for grounding?

depends how you wire it, but at a minimum you are going to need (in total) 15 4.8mm terminals
BUT
depending on wire thickness and how you join each terminal the 'size' of the terminal might vary

e.g. those red ones you linked will take a 0.75-1mm cable. Definitely on the low side for what I would be using for a permanent install like in this box (especially for 10A which is likely what the heater will be drawing)

You are more likely going to need the blue size (takes a 1.5-2.5mm cable), but for those terminals requiring two wires (like grounds where you are looping) or the main power in where you might want to branch it off to two locations you will need to look for the yellow terminals as they will take a wire size of ~4.5mm (or two of the 1.5-2mm cables twisted together)

The SSRs and 12V transformer can be wired without terminals if need be by claming the bare wire under the screw down terminals

 

[lespaul]

thanks for the quick reply!

ok so tomorrow ill get:
2 x http://www.altronics.com.au/p/h1851-red-4.8mm-male-spade-crimp-pk-10/
for each of the power inlet and outlets

and for the SSR ground ill need 2 ring crimps
http://www.altronics.com.au/p/h1825-yellow-8mm-ring-crimp-pk-10/

And ill just ditch the 4mm cable i have and get new 2mm (edit: ill get 2.5mm, they dont make 2 :lol: )

with regards to heatshrink, is it advisable to just put the heatshrink on the wire but not heat it yet until the sparky has checked it?
something like this will be OK on the terminals: http://www.altronics.com.au/p/t2480-iroda-micro-therm-mj-600-gas-flameless-heat-gun/

 

[SBOB]

thanks for the quick reply!

ok so tomorrow ill get:
2 x http://www.altronics.com.au/p/h1851-red-4.8mm-male-spade-crimp-pk-10/
for each of the power inlet and outlets

Wrong type...you need the female spade connectors
and they will only work for those terminals with a single wire going in
For the ones where you need to branch two wires out you will need the yellow coloured ones
Look at zwitters document for some images (or use my image in the previous page if you want to see one slightly less well done)

and for the SSR ground ill need 2 ring crimps
http://www.altronics.com.au/p/h1825-yellow-8mm-ring-crimp-pk-10/

Might struggle getting the ring ones in place due to the tight spacing. I used the U shaped spade connectors as these dont have to line up with the hole exactly and can be more easily bent 90 degrees

with regards to heatshrink, is it advisable to just put the heatshrink on the wire but not heat it yet until the sparky has checked it?
something like this will be OK on the terminals: http://www.altronics...eless-heat-gun/

Personally I dont think there is any need for any heatshrink as the terminals are covering any exposed areas of the cable (and the box should never be powered on when opened anyway)

 

[bigmacthepunker]

Wrapped to finally have this in my hands.

I have not started on the 240v side of things but hit a little hurdle with the pump/heater LEDs. I have the buttons all connected but when I start up via USB the pump LED lights up fine but the heater one doesn't light up despite it registering on the screen.

I swapped the LEDs around just to rule out a faulty LED and the red one lit up when I was pushing the pump button. So it doesn't seem to be an LED problem just wonder if the board has some sort of fault or if there is something else that can be done.

Hi Mister,
The heat LED doesn't work if the temp of the probe is higher than the set temp, I have realised. I hope that this fixes your problem.
Cheers
Bigmacthepunker

 

[Ferg]

Also, I am interested to see how everyone plans to do their plumbing including the output to a tap and if you will restrict the flow out of the pump back to the malt pipe as full flow may be too much. Please post your ideas / thoughts / drawings / pics of your setup.

Beers

Croz

This is what I went with. Everything is hard plumbed in with the pump detachable from the skin fittings via the union fittings.
The three way ball valve allows the pump to be primed (although in reality its not really needed) and also for the wort to be pumped out at the end. As I am using a plate chiller it allows me to pump through that if I wanted and also then to recirculate some cleaning solution later on. It also mean I don't have to add another ball valve on the side of the pot (in theory).

A few things I have discovered; the angle between the inlet and outlet of the pump is not 90 degrees, its more like 95 which puts the whole thing on the piss. It still sealed up properly though. You need to make sure you get a port T type ball valve as the L type will not work....

As an aside, on the wort side of my plate chiller I want to add some of the stainless quick connects from keg king (http://kegking.com.au/misc-plumbing-fittings/quick-connects.html). Does anyone know if they are compatible with the standard garden hose fittings? Ideally I would like to be able to swap over so I can back flush with the garden hose if I need to.

# This post probably belongs more in the next gen thread..

 

[zwitter]

Hi Mister,
The heat LED doesn't work if the temp of the probe is higher than the set temp, I have realised. I hope that this fixes your problem.
Cheers
Bigmacthepunker

Absolutely correct, think this is in my document, caught me out too, a long time ago.
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[zwitter]

A few comments
Les Paul
Insulated crimp terminals do not need heatshrink.
For the SSRs I think the space is a bit tight for crimp terminals and twisting the strands then make a U shape and tighten down well. the U should go both sides of the screw so it calmps down flat if on one side the joint will not be as good.

The 4.8mm crimps will need a little squishing to get a good connection.
For the ground on the SSRs and heatsink you can use the ring type terminals. then bend them, tight but will fit.

4mm will be too hard to work with and over kill for this project. The SSRs can switch 40A but the rest is not up to that current.

Mister Wilson
What is the temp set to in manual mode? As the element does not turn on if the target temp is already reached. Did you run the setup and enter some values etc? Do you have anything plugged in to the temp output of the board?

Lael and I have done some videos and they should answer some questions.

zwitter

 

[lespaul]

Spent so long focusing on blue/red I linked the wrong male version haha got it though.
Thanks for the feedback guys. Ordered an automatic wire stripper and crimper off eBay, so I'll have to wait for that sucker to arrive. Hopefully well have some videos by then

 

[LiquidCurrency]

I don't have my kit at the moment but are those things fully bonded together, if not, is it possible to replace the coloured part?

Have ordered a few on eBay. Only $1 ea

 

[LiquidCurrency]

I had the same problem with mine as I didn't want to force them on. Fixed the problem by pushing them right in.
I'm only new to these things but playing around in the mash step profiles I can't seem to set the temp lower than 68degrees but I'm sure it's operater error.

Have you changed it to Celsius from F?

 

[LiquidCurrency]

Still need to point to point test but pretty much done!

 

[real_beer]

.

 

[SBOB]

Still need to point to point test but pretty much done!

ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1447032013.957051.jpg

ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1447032061.873080.jpg

nice work
what size/types of cables are they for the 240v side?

 

[Mister Wilson]

Thanks for the help guys.

Been tied up with kids and work since hitting the hurdle but hopefully get back to it later this week.

 

[LiquidCurrency]

You will get away with using 1.5mm on a 2000w element however I've used 2.5mm on the 240 side as it will cope with higher current if i decide to use a larger element on a different system in the future.
The plugs and SSR's are also rated to 20A so in theory you should be able to drive up to a 4800w element (x2 for each relay) providing you have a 20A supply at your socket outlet.
PS. I tend to over-engineer things, it's a bad habit of mine.

 

[LiquidCurrency]

Don't forget all your earths MUST measure <1 ohm back to the plug.