Temperature Controllers
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dreamboat
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Well, the plot thickens....
My bloke told me that the XR30C cannot be set with a deadband around the setpoint, so cannot be used for heating and cooling simultaneously as it will instantaneously switch from cooling mode to heating mode. However, if timmy is on the money, the use of output2 could be configured to carry out the secondary function.
For example, setpoint to cool down to 10C
Alarm (heater) to come on if temp drops below 8C.... it is a bit of a pain to have to use two setpoints, but maybe it will work. I will look up some info on the XR30C and throw in my 2c after that.
TO get a single controller, utilising a single setpoint with an adjustable deadband, we have to move to a different series of controller (can't remember the model... XT?? TC??? something like that) which will be at a price of $165 plus $20 for the probe. Seems silly to me, as it is cheaper to buy two separate controllers.
I will confirm XR30C price, but the ballpark price I was given was $95. I know there has been some interest in this, so I will follow it up, but for my money, I doubt there is much point. The XR10C can be set up for either heating or cooling duties (no wiring needs to be reworked for this), so whether you are running a fridge or a bulb/heater you will be covered.
dreamboat
My bloke told me that the XR30C cannot be set with a deadband around the setpoint, so cannot be used for heating and cooling simultaneously as it will instantaneously switch from cooling mode to heating mode. However, if timmy is on the money, the use of output2 could be configured to carry out the secondary function.
For example, setpoint to cool down to 10C
Alarm (heater) to come on if temp drops below 8C.... it is a bit of a pain to have to use two setpoints, but maybe it will work. I will look up some info on the XR30C and throw in my 2c after that.
TO get a single controller, utilising a single setpoint with an adjustable deadband, we have to move to a different series of controller (can't remember the model... XT?? TC??? something like that) which will be at a price of $165 plus $20 for the probe. Seems silly to me, as it is cheaper to buy two separate controllers.
I will confirm XR30C price, but the ballpark price I was given was $95. I know there has been some interest in this, so I will follow it up, but for my money, I doubt there is much point. The XR10C can be set up for either heating or cooling duties (no wiring needs to be reworked for this), so whether you are running a fridge or a bulb/heater you will be covered.
dreamboat
dreamboat
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Looking at the Australian Kirby website (aus distributor I think) it appears that the rating of the alarm output is reduced from the main output.
http://www.kirbyjn.com.au/pdf/dixel_prime.pdf
If I am reading it right, main output is 20A(8A inductive), with alarm output being 8A(3A inductive) which would be fine for a lightbulb, but I would notuse the alarm output for a fridge or urn.
There is definately a second, configurable, output there though, so I can't see why it could not be made to work.
dreamboat
http://www.kirbyjn.com.au/pdf/dixel_prime.pdf
If I am reading it right, main output is 20A(8A inductive), with alarm output being 8A(3A inductive) which would be fine for a lightbulb, but I would notuse the alarm output for a fridge or urn.
There is definately a second, configurable, output there though, so I can't see why it could not be made to work.
dreamboat
Wortgames
'Draught' is not a beer style - it's a lifestyle
I hate to be the bearer of negativity, but I had a terrible experience earlier this year with Dixell and Kirby - I bought 2 x 2-stage units and they were crap. They didn't work with the probes they supplied at all (even though they are 'supposed' to work with both types) and when I got the 'right' probes the things read about 11C low at mash temps.
I had an argument with the Dixell rep at Kirby (a complete w@nker BTW), who was trying to tell me to just adjust the compensation by +11C (this made them read about 6C high at fridge temps). He finally just told me 'well if they aren't good enough for you there's not much we can do is there', as though I was being unreasonably fussy (apparently +/- 10C is 'close enough' for Kirby). Basically these things required major corrections and would only ever be accurate over a narrow range.
It took over a month to get a refund (they send you a cheque).
I finally got some Carel ones, almost double the price but dead accurate straight out of the box and right across the range.
I'm sure it must have been a batch fault (it was too inaccurate to just be bad design) but be warned. There's a reason they are the cheapest.
I had an argument with the Dixell rep at Kirby (a complete w@nker BTW), who was trying to tell me to just adjust the compensation by +11C (this made them read about 6C high at fridge temps). He finally just told me 'well if they aren't good enough for you there's not much we can do is there', as though I was being unreasonably fussy (apparently +/- 10C is 'close enough' for Kirby). Basically these things required major corrections and would only ever be accurate over a narrow range.
It took over a month to get a refund (they send you a cheque).
I finally got some Carel ones, almost double the price but dead accurate straight out of the box and right across the range.
I'm sure it must have been a batch fault (it was too inaccurate to just be bad design) but be warned. There's a reason they are the cheapest.
Dreamboat,
the Output 2 needs to be set as an alrm for an output and yes it only a 8 (3)A relay although the alarm point can be set as relative to setpoint, and yes there is a deadband if you look for it
.
BUT..............
Bear in mind that a heater is a resistive load so you could run a 1000w heater if need be, actually if you wanted to go to the rated limits of the relay contacts, you could put a 1900w heater on this based on a 240v supply with a purely resistive load (or a power factor or 1.0).
If only heating a fridge, a 100w light globe is more than enough or the thing will hunt like a bitch on heat.
the Output 2 needs to be set as an alrm for an output and yes it only a 8 (3)A relay although the alarm point can be set as relative to setpoint, and yes there is a deadband if you look for it
.BUT..............
Bear in mind that a heater is a resistive load so you could run a 1000w heater if need be, actually if you wanted to go to the rated limits of the relay contacts, you could put a 1900w heater on this based on a 240v supply with a purely resistive load (or a power factor or 1.0).
If only heating a fridge, a 100w light globe is more than enough or the thing will hunt like a bitch on heat.
dreamboat
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All still on...
Talking on the phone right now to get price on XR30C, the guy is not sure that this is the best way to go... but regardless, the price for XR30C is $125, whic will give you your two relay outputs.
If anybody wants to change their order to the XR30C from the XR10C, post an edit to the list, and of course, if anybody else wants to be in, there is still some time.
We need to give everyone a couple of days to get a chance to check up on this thread again, so lets finalise all for Monday morning and get this show on the road.
Cheers
Dreamboat
Talking on the phone right now to get price on XR30C, the guy is not sure that this is the best way to go... but regardless, the price for XR30C is $125, whic will give you your two relay outputs.
If anybody wants to change their order to the XR30C from the XR10C, post an edit to the list, and of course, if anybody else wants to be in, there is still some time.
We need to give everyone a couple of days to get a chance to check up on this thread again, so lets finalise all for Monday morning and get this show on the road.
Cheers
Dreamboat
PeterS
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dreamboat said:
Thank you Dreamboat. I must admit that I do not know what I need. I know what I want, but reading those sites does not realy help because of their technical nature that I do not understand.
Can somebody put me on the correct path as to what I need?. What I want is a Temperature sensor, conrtroller that would run my HLT . I would love to set the temp to say 75C and the controller than would switch the power on and off as required to controll a 2400W element and maintain the temp at that rate. That is my main use for it. My secondary thought for another controller is to control a soleoid or whatever it is called to controll a gas operated Kettle. What do I need, an XR10C or an XR30C, or neither???
Put me out of my misery fellows...
:beer:
PeterS....
dreamboat
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For plan A - your HLT, the XR10C is the go.
You set your temperature and deadband, and tell the unit that you are using it for heating, and it will heat up to your setpoint, then turn off, then on again as the temp falls again.
For plan B - your kettle....the electrics of it will work from the perspective of a simple XR10C, but the mechanics of turning off your gas with a solenoid, then have it re-fire when the gas comes back on is a bit beyond me... perhaps with a pilot light on all the time you could make this work??? There is really not much point in controlling your kettle anyhow, as the heat is and heat out is fairly constant, so really you can set and forget.
dreamboat
You set your temperature and deadband, and tell the unit that you are using it for heating, and it will heat up to your setpoint, then turn off, then on again as the temp falls again.
For plan B - your kettle....the electrics of it will work from the perspective of a simple XR10C, but the mechanics of turning off your gas with a solenoid, then have it re-fire when the gas comes back on is a bit beyond me... perhaps with a pilot light on all the time you could make this work??? There is really not much point in controlling your kettle anyhow, as the heat is and heat out is fairly constant, so really you can set and forget.
dreamboat
Peter - doing a controller for a gas burner is a fair amount more complex as you need flameout protection and other stuff.. it's much easier to control an electrically heated device. As Dreamboat said, do you really need a controller for your kettle? Turn it on at the start, and turn it off 60/90 minutes later
redbeard said:My finances were renegotiated & now can afford 2
thanks for the organisation Hoops & Dreamboat
cheers
Hoops 8
kook 2
jgriffin 2
JasonY 2
Plastic Man 2
Peter Shane 2
PhilS 1
barls 1
briank 1
kbekus 1
mobrien 1
apocrine 1
Sintax69 1
redbeard 2
hockadays 1
BrissyBrew 1
AndrewQLD 1
That's 30 :super:
[post="75685"][/post]
Add me back in for 2 XR10C if possible.
Cheers,
David
dreamboat
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The list as it currently stands... once again, all will be finalised Monday AM, so make your addition/subtraction soon.
AHB Name Qty
XR10C XR30C
Hoops 8
Kook 2
Jgriffin 2
JasonY 2
Plastic Man 2
Peter Shane 2
PhilS 1
Barls 1
Briank 1
Kbekus 1 1
Mobrien 1
Asher 1
Sintax69 1
Redbeard 2
Hockadays 1
AndrewQLD 1
Brissybrew 1
Fammer 1
Hopeye 2
33 1
AHB Name Qty
XR10C XR30C
Hoops 8
Kook 2
Jgriffin 2
JasonY 2
Plastic Man 2
Peter Shane 2
PhilS 1
Barls 1
Briank 1
Kbekus 1 1
Mobrien 1
Asher 1
Sintax69 1
Redbeard 2
Hockadays 1
AndrewQLD 1
Brissybrew 1
Fammer 1
Hopeye 2
33 1
Hoops
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for the extra cost (50% extra) I will just stick with the XR10C and if need be use 2 in one fridge during cooler weather when I need a heater.
Looking foward to getting them - then it's lager time :beer:
between this and the vent-matic tap bulk buy I am forking out some dosh - will be looking at over $800 worth :blink:
Looking foward to getting them - then it's lager time :beer:
between this and the vent-matic tap bulk buy I am forking out some dosh - will be looking at over $800 worth :blink:
dreamboat
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All done......
All finished.....
Going Once, Twice............
Sold to the man in the yellow hat.
I will send out my bank details to all on the list, along with amount due.... pending postage costs, which we will sort out later.
dreamboat
All finished.....
Going Once, Twice............
Sold to the man in the yellow hat.
I will send out my bank details to all on the list, along with amount due.... pending postage costs, which we will sort out later.
dreamboat
