Stringy Bark - Us05

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pdilley

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Put down the 15kg of Stringy Bark in the 60 litre fermenter yesterday.

The plan is to perform primary ferment in the 60 litre fermenter and bring the time for primary fermentation down to 2 to 3 weeks. After fermentation is complete, rack into multiple 5 litre glass demijohns where experimentation in spices and fruits as additions will be performed. Preform aging in 5 litre bulk lots until bottling.

Was aiming for OG of 1.100
Brix reading during dilution reached 23.23 Degrees Brix which is 1.09757 Gravity Points.

6.1 grams of Yeast Nutrient added along with 6.1 grams of DAP.

I used my 1 meter long new paint stirrer from Bunnings on the end of my cordless drill and beat the snot out of the Honey must. Cleaned and sanitised before use, of course.

I will be following the 1/3rd sugar break and 3 nutrient additions method. 2nd Nutrient addition will be performed after a fall of about 2 to 3 Degrees Brix on the refractometer.


To follow along on the fermentation I have the following running calculations:

9th, May
----------
Starting Brix (OB): 23.2

10th, May
----------
Time: 4:32PM
Observed Refractometer Reading (AB): 23.2
Temperature: 18 Degrees C
Adjusted SG (Ethanol Effect & Temperature): 1.096
Adjusted Brix (Ethanol Effect & Temperature): 22.8
 
Pete ,

I was listening to this podcast on the Jamil show about Mead its well worth a listen


"In the second to last episode of The Jamil Show, Jamil and Jon are almost done with every style in the BJCP Style Guidelines and come one step close with this coverage of Mead. Author of The Compete Mead Maker and mead expert Ken Schramm also joins the program and ads his expertise on this ancient fermented beverage".

I may give mead a try one day .

I was amazed how high in alchohol meads are about 14%

http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/The-Jam...l-Show-12-01-08

Pumpy :)
 
Cheers for that Pumpy.

Already listened to all the Jamil shows on Mead :) even the Basic Brew Radio and Basic Brew Video shows, and even stormthecastle, and hightest.

I ordered and have read Ken Schramms The Compleat Meadmaker cover to cover. Wasn't as exciting as I thought as its a tiny bit out of date and after listening to all those podcasts taught me almost everything covered in the book.

I even have two GotMead Ancient Orange mead recipes brewing away in the cupboard for the past 2 months. (Clove, Orange, Raisins, Stringy Bark).

I have another 14kg of IronBark honey left. I will be doing that in another giant primary fermentation batch but because its so clear and clean, I'm using Lalvin D-47 Wine yeast on that batch.

Do try Mead, its my favourite all time fermented drink. SG's are higher so its an ever so tiny modification to techniques with Beers, closer to putting down a high gravity Barley Wine. By do try, fermented, not that sickly sweet goo sold commercially in the bottle shops.

If you find any more shows let me know! - I'm always hungry for anything Mead :D

Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
Hey Pete,


How long does it take to ferment out the mead is 12 weeks a realistic time ?

Have you a special source for your Honey ?

What do you have to look for in a good honey for mead? .

How much does it cost for mead in Bulk .?

is mead a dry Finish ?

Pumpy :)
 
How long does it take to ferment out the mead is 12 weeks a realistic time ?

Primary Fermentation can take up to 9 months or longer. Using 1/3rd sugar break and nutrient additions you can bring the fermentation time down to 2 to 3 weeks. My Ancient Orange is a very old school without nutrient additions and its still slowly plopping away in the cupboard.

Mead brings home very quickly that the job of a brewer is not to "make beer" or "make wine" or "make mead". The job of the brewer is to "make an environment for yeast to thrive in". Once you make the environment perfect for yeast your main job is done and your fermentation time drops. Extreme in Mead because honey is a virtual wasteland of nutrition, pH and buffering for yeast and is a high gravity environment putting a lot of hydrostatic pressure on the yeast cells. You don't like it down at the deep end of the pool with your ears hurting, neither do the yeast.

Have you a special source for your Honey ?

Farm, one of the larger honey farms supplying the bulk packers for NSW. I'm lucky that its a 26 minute drive away from my location.

What do you have to look for in a good honey for mead? .

Aroma, flavour :). Anything you think smells really really nice or has a really nice taste will be a good candidate for Mead. If you have a skunky honey you will not be able to make anything better than a skunky Mead. The quality of ingredients is the limiting factor, but the better quality you put in the better quality you get out at the end. You can never increase the quality over the original ingredients.

That cuts out pasteurised blends shoved into the supermarket for joe average consumer. And cuts out cooking honey.

Raw rule of thumb is lighter honeys make better mead than darker ones. Contrary to that rule from America, you get some Dark honeys that have very light delicate and non offensive or strong flavours and you can get light honeys that are just strong, nasty and foul! Ask any bee keeper and he will tell you that from the same bee hive you'll get different colour honey throughout the season, usually progressively darker as the season goes on.

The Compleat Meadmaker has data on Eucalyptus honey, but thats the problem, it was performed in the US and its just "eucalyptus honey" not a break down of all the various eucalyptus varieties on offer in Australia. The common opinion of Eucalyptus over in America is they make medicinal tasting mead. I'd take that advice with a grain of salt. They probably have a highly pasteurized honey shipped over there and left in the warehouse for quite a while before clearing the shops.

Iron Bark is used by bee keeper / mead makers. I'm using Stringy Bark as well. The Iron Bark I have is clear almost water like. The Stringy Bark I have is darker.

Honey is a degrading quality ingredient, the fresher the better, the more it sits the more it is not as preferred for Mead Making, though it still goes great on toast and in food products.

Honey is also full of more than a hundred flavours, each at different levels or even not in other honeys. There is also technically no "Variety" of honey. Iron Bark may be made by hives where more of the flowers are Iron Bark that are collected by the Bees but other flowers and nectars are also collected and go into the honey. Location, time of season, its a very varied world out there in honey land! Another reason not to go for bulk statements about quality of a particular honey for Mead from someone 1/2 way around the world in another country.

How much does it cost for mead in Bulk .?

Honey in Bulk?

Depends on your supplier. If you deal with a large farm, they deal with primary producer rates to packers. If you get some small guy packing his backyard honey into tiny jars and tying bits of fancy cloth around the jars you'll pay premium for it. $15 and higher per kilo.

Farms supplying bulk to us are really supplying small one offs (a bucket or two) when they are used to filling up gigantic HDPE cubes that go on trucks. Again the price will fluctuate on variety of honey and the farms location to how much of a specific variety they have left to shift. To a mead maker, expect about $5 per kilo for the quantities we buy. In the supermarket you'll be paying about $10-12 per kilo for that same honey but not as fresh and you don't know if its been pasteurized.

Farms to bulk packers in large volumes are going to be lower in per kilo cost, near $3.20 or so.

That said, if you get into it, you'll be wanting your own bee hives in the back yard next. With 100-120 kilos of honey made a season you will have an absolute bounty load of honey to make mead with if you do not care about a specific varietal and are ok with having wildflower honey as your base for making Mead. At $5 per kilo our price, you can easily see a big savings in running your own hives. Two of those will save you more than your Rudd money each year in honey for Mead. If you spent your Rudd money kitting yourself out with Bee Hives and gear you'll make it back the first year and every year after is a perpetual Rudd money giveaway in liquid gold instead of plastic cash.


is mead a dry Finish ?

Not necessarily. However it is easiest that way. For the utmost in consistency you program in your desired ABV and ferment out dry. Then stabilise and back sweeten as necessary at the end. You can try and target a finish in the sweet range, but until you really know your strain of yeast and your honeys and technique you have quite a bit of variability that could put you into overly sickly sweet if attenuation does not go to plan.

The easiest method of all is to bulk ferment then rack to smaller vessels to do your flavouring. Putting expensive fruit and ingredients in the primary only means it will get torn up by the yeast and expelled through the airlock as aroma and your bang per dollar of ingredient goes out the airlock with it. Bulk aging helps as well. Thats why I'm racking to 5 litres as the smallest for bulk aging, I have 25 litre and 34 litre glass demijohns specifically set aside for bulk aging Mead once I really get going!


Cheers,
Brewer Pete


PS Forgot to add a picture of what that big ol' paint stirrer looks like I use to make Meads with in bulk. Shoves into my cordless drill for a very frothy foamy oxygenation session with my honey must.
paint-stirrer.png


You can buy a drill unit just for stirring, but after GMC went under locally, the prices of Tools at Bunnings has jumped through the roof lately.
Paint-Stirrer.jpg
 
Wow thats some good information Brewer Pete

Love the patent mead Areator perhaps could use that for beer too.

Pumpy :)
 
I use that same stirrer as my mash paddle for BIAB.......Never attached it to the drill though, would eat the bag I'd say...


I might have to look into this mead concept once I run out of beer bottles to fill.
 
I suppose you can keg mead , everything I bottle seems to have a funny taste?ha Ha

Pumpy
 
You can buy a drill unit just for stirring, but after GMC went under locally, the prices of Tools at Bunnings has jumped through the roof lately.

Didnt GMC go under cos of bunnings?!?

I thought they dropped them from their range which resulted in them going belly up.
 
Funny you guys mention beer aeration.

I actually pulled it out and sanitised it for the APA I put down from yesterdays BIAB session. Just emptying the cube made one hell of a lot of foam that I didn't put the drill into it. In retrospect it was probably the natural detergents in the wort making it frothy. Should have a good head on that beer when its done. Probably could have beaten the snot out of it just for laughs.

Mead is more versatile than wine for additions of all sorts of ingredients. You can serve it still, or sparkling. Keg should be fine, you can make a nice dry champagne from Mead. You can brew low ABV to high ABV. I think a wine range of 12%-14% is a good range to be in.

Mead goes good sparkling, in the bottle with a crown seal, will age for many years which is great for beer brewers as you don't necessarily have to jump into wine bottles, floor corkers, corks and the like if you do not want to.

When you make the environment perfect for the yeast you will see your yeast performance data skew out the window. You'll get 1 and even 2 % higher ABV out of strains when fed Nutrients + DAP, the occasional rare strain will kick and underperform, but only by a percentage point. All of this is a moot point if you just program in a target of say 12% ABV and ferment out dry using a yeast that imparts a characteristic or set of characteristics you enjoy.

Oh, and the Mead aerator is fun to use as well! Boys and toys! :D



EDIT: Bunnings post snuck in there. I am not sure what the story was on the local GMC demise, I just remember a lot of prices jumping by $200 or more on the remaining brands Bunnings sells since they are no longer there. Maybe that was the plan all along? Maybe pressure to keep prices low forced all the suppliers of those other brands to put the heat on Bunnings to drop GMC as they didn't like the smaller profits they were making with GMC on the scene selling low.
 
Do meads have to be so strong can you make them around 5% so you can quaff them ?
 
There is a style of Mead being sold in the States with ABV low, although 7% range seems to be stuck in my memory.

I have not made a low ABV Mead yet, except for JAO, but that is quaffed youngish and really doesn't improve with age any. Which is why you brew a wine ABV range so you can age them and let the characters come out that are overpowered or hiding until after a year or two.

That said, its your Mead :) if you like the taste of a low ABV Mead fair enough, but you'll be running through a lot of it. Normally Mead packs a nice kick. But like sake, it sneaks up on you.

Mead was the primary fermented drink for people until it became so expensive for honey and hence Mead that people looked at alternatives. Wine from grapes, and grain based drinks were looked down upon as inferior in quality but soon only the very well off people could afford it. Beeswax was what kept Mead alive through the dark period of its decline from the common table, all those clergy men needed candles and the superior burning quality of Beeswax meant the clergy either managed Bees or kept Beekeepers in their back pocket. After the wax was harvested, they had all that honey laying around so you had to do something with it. Bless the Friars :) Now Mead is on a come back worldwide. But it is still rather expensive to brew compared to other beverages. Probably why a wine ABV range is used. You want to enjoy it but if you quaff it you might end up running through your wallet faster than you wished.


Cheers,
Brewer Pete


PS. When you are done with the spices and fruits you have the malts and hops to go into Meads as well. I'm currently reading about a Chocolate Mead brew experiment going on. Lavender also sounds nice so long as you have just a hint of lavender on the bouquet, too much and it might smell like fancy soap.
 
Nice coverage on mead BP.

Im planning to make a mead for the first time using Leatherwood honey. I'll need to read The Compleat Meadmaker before I delve into it though, but was wondering if you've made a leatherwood mead and what your thoughts are on this honey.

Also, how much water did you add to 15kg of strinybark to get an OG of 1.100, and what the total final volume was?

Cheers.
 
Pete ,

Do ypu make Braggott is that like beer and mead ?
 
Nothing like answering my own question but found this on Braggott on another site

The American Homebrewer's Association style guideline for Braggot

defines it as a sub-category of mead:

"Meads made with both honey and malt providing flavor and fermentable extract. Originally, and alternatively, a mixture of mead and ale.

Aroma:
Aroma of both honey and malt should be apparent and in balance. Hop aroma may be present but is not required.

Appearance:
Straw to dark brown depending on the type of malt and honey used. Some head retention is expected. Clear, although some chill haze may be present at low temperatures.

Flavor:
There should be some balance between the beer aspect and the mead aspect of a braggot, especially with regard to maltiness and bitterness versus honey character. Malt character ranges from light pale malt-type flavors to rich caramel flavors, depending on the malt used. Hop bitterness and flavor may be present but are not required.

Mouthfeel:
Body may vary from light to medium. Smooth mouthfeel without astringency. Carbonation may vary from light to very lively.

Comments:
The fermentable sugars should come from a balance of malt and honey, otherwise the beverage might better be entered as a Specialty Beer with the addition of honey. As a rule of thumb, the fermentables should consist of no less than 1/3 malt and no more than 2/3 honey. Hopped examples of this style should exhibit the hops distinctly and should have at least 15 IBUs.

Vital Statistics
Effective OG: 1.060-1.120+

IBUs: 0-50 FG: 1.004-1.025"


I started brewing braggot 6 years ago as a result of an article in Zymurgy (the American Homebrewer's Association magazine) describing the style in historical terms. Generally, the English brewers of 200-300 years ago would brew their best beer with the first runnings of the mash. Being practical and not wanting anything to go to waste they would try to use the 2nd runnings of the mash. Unfortunately there was insufficient sugar so honey was added to get the sugar level high enough to get sufficient alcohol.

In my experience braggots are easier to brew than meads.
* The malt ingredients provide the necessary nutrients lacking in the honey alone, yet the honey provides excellent sugars readily available for the yeast making for a healthy fermentation.
* I find braggots tend to be somewhat high alcohol (for the above reason) and somewhat thin bodied, boring products as they don't have sufficient malt or honey character, sort of a melange of both.

My first braggots did not have hops, which I believe may have been an error, I've got some new hopped versions in secondary conditioning now. My previous experiments have included:
* rose petal braggot - second runnings of a red ale with orange blossom honey, rose petals added in secondary. This resulted in a high alcohol, fragrant, almost sipping product akin to a port. A little of this braggot went a long way.
* chocolate braggot - second runnings of an imperial stout combined with orange blossom honey which was probably the best braggot I've brewed. The roasted malts came through the aroma and taste providing a chocolate or mocha character. Because there was sufficient malt (2nd running of an imperial stout could adequately yield a 4-5% beer!) I was able to add enough orange blossom honey so the honey was also evident in the nose and on the palette.
* Cocopandon braggot - second runnings of a pale ale and orange blossom honey but added an asian tropical fruit syrup (which has coconut, jasmine, mango....). I thought it had fermented out and put it into the bottle a little too hastily and ended up being a sparkling braggot. This made for a lovely, light pink , bubbly product most often served in Champagne flutes. Quite festive.

I encourage anyone to attempt brewing a braggot as it is easy and can yield interesting results.
 
To follow along on the fermentation I have the following running calculations:

9th, May
----------
Starting Brix (OB): 23.2

10th, May
----------
Time: 4:32PM
Observed Refractometer Reading (AB): 23.2
Temperature: 18 Degrees C
Adjusted SG (Ethanol Effect & Temperature): 1.096
Adjusted Brix (Ethanol Effect & Temperature): 22.8

11th, May
----------
Time: 4:32PM
Observed Refractometer Reading (AB): 22.9
Temperature: 19.5 Degrees C
Adjusted SG (Ethanol Effect & Temperature): 1.094
Adjusted Brix (Ethanol Effect & Temperature): 22.4

Today we started with small white spots of yeast floating on top of the Honey Must in the morning.
At the reading time we have now got foamy layer on top with thick yeasty large spots.

Gentlemen start your engines!

I added in 4.7g additional DAP and 4.7g additional Bintani Yeast Nutrient last night and beat the snot out of the must with the drill with paint stirrer until the battery drained out on me. I miscalculated my original 1st nutrient addition for this volume. The 1st Nutrient Addition in the schedule should have been 10.8g of DAP and 10.8g of Bintani Yeast Nutrient.

One more fall in Degrees of Brix and I'll add the 2nd of the three nutrient additions to the Honey Must.

The 3rd and last will be before the 1/2 sugar break.



Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
Nothing like answering my own question but found this on Braggott on another site

I encourage anyone to attempt brewing a braggot as it is easy and can yield interesting results.

Braggots can be an easy first step for a beer brewer but as you say, might not be impressive as not enough beer taste for a trained beer palate and not enough Mead palate for a Mead aficionado.

That said, all it takes is a refractometer and a digital scale with .1 gram resolution and you've got Mead making mastered as far as fermentation and nutrient addition tools go.

If you get the .1 resolution digital pocket scales (mine is the 1KG pocket scales at .1 resolution) from dealextreme.com and the 0-32 Brix Refractometer from eBay from easylifeproduct seller you are looking at the same cost as buying a commercial BIAB bag to get into the Mead side of things, so not a high entry cost for a beer brewer already kitted out. It would be a higher entry cost if you buy these items at the LHBS though...


Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
I bought a couple of tubs of honey in the last bulk buy, they are still in the pantry whilst i start to get it together to make mead.
I was looking at the ancient orange from got mead website... the 6-9 months fermenting time puts me off a little, it's a long time to tie up a fermenter and the relatively low finishing quantity is also a concern, it's basically and expensive brew. Perhaps as you say, buy in bulk and save but i would need to like the recipe and then be able to find a supplier ....

BP perhaps you would post some recipe's for braggot?
 
I bought a couple of tubs of honey in the last bulk buy, they are still in the pantry whilst i start to get it together to make mead.
I was looking at the ancient orange from got mead website... the 6-9 months fermenting time puts me off a little, it's a long time to tie up a fermenter and the relatively low finishing quantity is also a concern, it's basically and expensive brew. Perhaps as you say, buy in bulk and save but i would need to like the recipe and then be able to find a supplier ....

BP perhaps you would post some recipe's for braggot?

Sounds like a call out for the "Braggot" recipe of Braggot recipes, I'll have to dig it out and post it, you'll definitely love the name of it :)


Look for it in a little while.

Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
I bought a couple of tubs of honey in the last bulk buy, they are still in the pantry whilst i start to get it together to make mead.
I was looking at the ancient orange from got mead website... the 6-9 months fermenting time puts me off a little.

Don't be put of by JAO, do two 5 litre batches of it and just stick em in the cupboard and forget about them. Depending on temperatures, you could be looking at 2-3 months instead of 6-9 months.

Most people enjoy the taste and the rude fact it uses bakers yeast and love it so much they switch to 19+ litre batches of it. So keep in mind there are a lot of JAO fans out there that want lots of it instead of the smaller first test batches.

I did my JAO with Defiance Bakers Yeast from Melbourne so you should be able to source that. I can not tell you the finish of it yet as its still brewing. Up here its Tandaco as the brand of yeast being sold. Seeing as I have over 25+ sachets of Defiance I went with that to use it up.

If JAO is good, I might ferment out 23-25 litres of it and use up quite a bit of the Defiance sachets.


Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 

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