Stc 1000 Temp Controller

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I think it's a testament to the design of this product that it didn't blow a fuse or something, as when the relay trips, you have active connected straight to neutral. The previous replies have already explained this, but here's my explanation anyway: This device switches the active line. This means that the active wire should be in series through 7 and 8 (and 5 and 6).

I'm not sure what you thought it did? If 7 & 8 were connected to the active and neutral internally, then you wouldn't have the actives connected. :confused:

As NigeP62 said, get it checked by someone qualified before using it again.

EDIT: Also, as previously mentioned, make sure you connect the earths as well. Fridges tend to be made of steel, and earthing will save your life if there's a problem.
 
Thanks to all responses, I'll approach this again when Ive not been drinking

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Just wired up the controller and testing with a lamp indicates that its working how it should. A huge thanks to the guys who outlined the wiring for me. I cross checked all of your responses against each other, and its all good.

Now, to build a shelf for the fridge so i can start fermenting the two cubes (a weizen and a 10% double choc porter) I have in reserve :kooi:
 
Just wired up the controller and testing with a lamp indicates that its working how it should. A huge thanks to the guys who outlined the wiring for me. I cross checked all of your responses against each other, and its all good.

Now, to build a shelf for the fridge so i can start fermenting the two cubes (a weizen and a 10% double choc porter) I have in reserve :kooi:

onya Silo
So what was the prob?
(Pm if you want. I can keep a secret. <_< )
Daz
 
Thanks to all responses, I'll approach this again when Ive not been drinking

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oh dear. I'm glad everyone survived.



I love this controller, finally got mine built with flush plugs, fuse and all. But I'm yet to buy a fridge or freezer or a heat mat so I can't really use it yet! ... I've got light bulbs though, and I wonder how well a fan alone will cool down my brew.....
 
He will supply spare probes if you ask. I think they were $3.50 ea.

I bought a couple to replace the tired & malfunctioning fridgemate & tempmate probes.


Fridgemate & TempMate probes are not interchangeable.

cheers ross
 
I couldn't resist adding my own circuit diagram. There's enough of these floating around now... I've tried to show exactly how I've used terminal blocks as this was one of the things I was unsure of before beginning.

STC1000.png

Hopefully I didn't introduce any errors.
 
I made mine an internal unit for kegs It was meant to be a fermenter unit but my other digital fridge can run and hold 10c no problems.

Bought the j box of ebay from this bloke http://stores.ebay.com.au/electricalconections

Here are some pics as I took me some time to chase and find the relays and work out how to make it run without problems. The red and black wires are cross over colour wires as I didn't have blue and orange. The fridges internal wiring is .75 mm cable I looped in at 1mm cable.
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Basically all I've done is remove the wiring from the fridges thermostat and wired it into the STC1000. The plastic housing from the old fridges thermostat is still there so the light works even if the fridge is turned off by the STC.
 
really happy with my stc 1000 ccing at the moment hopefully better beers at the end of it all

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Hi all,

I have another request about the STC-1000 Thermostat....

i am going to be cutting an extension lead in half and use the male plug as the main, and the female as the heat.. (then just plug my heat source into the female).
i want to wire it to control a heat cord (75watts), i dont want the temp to get any higher than 30 degrees!

can any of you look at the picture below and tell me if this is how i would wire it?? i do not need the cooling part of the stat!!

and with the grounded wires do i combine them together using a connector (main grounded on one side and the heat grounded on the other??

any help would be much appreciated.

STC-10001.jpg



Regards
Ben
 
Mate,
The earths must be connected together and if you are using a metal box to mount it in then that must be connected to earth as well
Go to jaycar and get terminal rail rated at 240v or go the the hardware shop, in the electrical section there should be these thing called bp connectors.
You will need to connect the earths together also where the dots on the drawing are you will need to connect those wires together. Remember brown = active. Blue = neutral and green/ yellow = earth

Cheers matho
 
Dude... I'm pretty sure you'll shrug it off and say f*** off wanker, but if you need to ask these questions, go find a sparky??? All the great quality, cheap beer in the world means bugger all if you fry yourself.... or even worse; someone you love
 
Hey mate,

I'm a sparkie, so am more than happy to lend a bit of advice..

Have just wired mine up, and am waiting on the fridge- counting the bloody seconds!

a little problem with that diagram- separated earths. They need to be joined with a 2x screw BP connecter to be compliant and safe. Also, an enclosure for the whole lot is an absolute must! Regarding a previous suggestion ie- using a metal box- do not use a metal box unless it itself is earthed!!!!!!!!!!

I've used a weather proof J box with part of the side cut out to slot the brewmaster into.

As for safety, try and maintain double insulation all the way into the enclosure. We all love our family and little fingers can go a wandering.


Cheers buddy.

James.
 

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