Stc 1000 Temp Controller

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Hey mate,

I'm a sparkie, so am more than happy to lend a bit of advice..

Have just wired mine up, and am waiting on the fridge- counting the bloody seconds!

a little problem with that diagram- separated earths. They need to be joined with a 2x screw BP connecter to be compliant and safe. Also, an enclosure for the whole lot is an absolute must! Regarding a previous suggestion ie- using a metal box- do not use a metal box unless it itself is earthed!!!!!!!!!!

I've used a weather proof J box with part of the side cut out to slot the brewmaster into.

As for safety, try and maintain double insulation all the way into the enclosure. We all love our family and little fingers can go a wandering.


Cheers buddy.

James.


Thanks James,

I will be using a plastic zippy box from jarcar / dick-smiths... i will also be using the connectors to wire the mains and heat together aswell not just the earths...

and thanks very much for the pics and taking the time to fix the earths on the diagram. i appreciate it.

Regards
Ben,
 

wow.. you're a sparky? can't wait 'til lethalcorpse goes to work on yer arse for a lack of cable glands through the enclosure.... but hey.... sure everyone is o much clearer from this illustration... ;)
 
wow.. you're a sparky? can't wait 'til lethalcorpse goes to work on yer arse for a lack of cable glands through the enclosure.... but hey.... sure everyone is o much clearer from this illustration... ;)


Hahaha... Nice.

The holes drilled are as tight as a Nun's..... That's how i got away with it.. Note the extension cord inside the enclosure cable-tied. Not going anywhere in a hurry.

Cheers Bud.

James.
 
Thanks James,

I will be using a plastic zippy box from jarcar / dick-smiths... i will also be using the connectors to wire the mains and heat together aswell not just the earths...

and thanks very much for the pics and taking the time to fix the earths on the diagram. i appreciate it.

Regards
Ben,

i will be using the same sort of box and connectors seen here for this stc-200 stat...

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Very nice Ben.


Only thing I would suggest is to give the terminal block a miss with the earth....

Make a join with a 2x scew BP on for good measure instead.

Or if you're real good with a pair of pliers leave the earth intact!

James.
 
Dude... I'm pretty sure you'll shrug it off and say f*** off wanker, but if you need to ask these questions, go find a sparky??? All the great quality, cheap beer in the world means bugger all if you fry yourself.... or even worse; someone you love


BTW Schoo, great advice.. Why risk it?
 
Very nice Ben.


Only thing I would suggest is to give the terminal block a miss with the earth....

Make a join with a 2x scew BP on for good measure instead.

Or if you're real good with a pair of pliers leave the earth intact!

James.

Ok great, will do... thanks again James!!!


Regards
Ben,
 
Are you going to use this controller in the production of beer? The reason I ask is that it seems strange you don't need the cooling and you mentioned heating up to 30c.
 
No im not using it in the production of beer.... i just need it to control the heat on another project.


Regards
Ben,
 
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BTW,

your diagram looks good wiring-wise.

As for earthing---

Hi Mate, Just wandering if you could help....i just ordered 1 of these. only cooling rquired. Do i simply connect power cord of fridge to 7 and 8? temp sensor to 3 and 4 and power supply to 1 and 2? or do i have to join anything else
 
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Hi Mate, Just wandering if you could help....i just ordered 1 of these. only cooling rquired. Do i simply connect power cord of fridge to 7 and 8? temp sensor to 3 and 4 and power supply to 1 and 2? or do i have to join anything else
 

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Hey there. I'm a first time poster.. Anyone got a spare STC-1000 unit they want to sell? I have a ETC-200, but I think it just gave up the ghost.. :(

Let me know..

Cheers,

Chris
 
Fellas

I've tacked this onto this thread - as it is sort of on topic

I'm gonna wire one of these up to control a 2400W element

I've got a 3m extension lead that I was planning to use - its 1.0mm2 cable rated to 10A 2400W

Is this adequate for extend use (over a brewday) or should I be looking at 1.5mm2 flex cable due to the load?

Cheers
 
I'm not an expert at all but I have read somewhere that you should use a relay with a higher Amp rating as the unit is not capable of directly switching the element.
hope someone else can give you a clearer idea.
Cheers Stu
 
The specs have

Relay contact capacity Cool(10A/250VAC); Heat(10A/250VAC)

I assume that a relay will not be needed

Cheers

No you won't need a relay, the speed that these on/off controllers flick over are not an issue. A PID on the other hand must have an SSR (some use mechanical relays with no probs) however, I digress, a 10amp lead will be fine, if you have a full load running through it for a length of time it will warm up, but it shoud not overheat if it is a 10amp lead.

cheers

Browndog
 
Fellas

I've tacked this onto this thread - as it is sort of on topic

I'm gonna wire one of these up to control a 2400W element

I've got a 3m extension lead that I was planning to use - its 1.0mm2 cable rated to 10A 2400W

Is this adequate for extend use (over a brewday) or should I be looking at 1.5mm2 flex cable due to the load?

Cheers

1.0mm cable, and cord will handle 10a comfortably... For an indefinite period of time...

Most appliances rated to 10a or lower have 1.0mm cable or cord as standard... In fact, some have .75mm...

No need to worry... A separate relay is totally unnecessary for loads requiring 10a or less... The stc-1000's on board relay handles 10a continuously easily.

Hope this helps...
 
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