Stc 1000 Temp Controller

[michael_aussie]

Fellas

I've tacked this onto this thread - as it is sort of on topic

I'm gonna wire one of these up to control a 2400W element

I've got a 3m extension lead that I was planning to use - its 1.0mm2 cable rated to 10A 2400W

Is this adequate for extend use (over a brewday) or should I be looking at 1.5mm2 flex cable due to the load?

Cheers

IMO I wouldn't use an STC1000 to directly control a 10A load for extended periods.
The internal relays of the STC1000 are rated to 10A, but ... I wouldn't run a 10A load directly off the unit.

I would wire an external relay to the output and wire the load to the external relay.
Relays are dirt cheap, and this will ensure your STC1000 has a longer life.

The extension lead is OK, but once again, if you are going to go to the trouble of setting this all up for the long term, 1.5mm will do a better job and really isn't that more expensive.

2 bobs worth.

 

[Brown_hound]

IMO I wouldn't use an STC1000 to directly control a 10A load for extended periods.
... I wouldn't run a 10A load directly off the unit.

Why?
A contact or cable/cord 'rated' to 10A is a contact/cable/cord capable of allowing that amount of current to pass through its conductors for an indefinite period of time without heat increase, significant enough so as to reduce the effective current carrying capacity of said conductors below its rated current carrying capacity.
Conductors rated to 10A are easily capable of handling larger currents for seconds at a time, such as motor starting currents @ 50A for eg.

I would wire an external relay to the output and wire the load to the external relay.
this will ensure your STC1000 has a longer life.

Not true. The STC-1000's relays are designed for continuous and comfortable 10A flow @ 240V ie. 2.4KW, 2400W.
To suggest that 10A (continuously) will degrade the contacts AT ALL is silly.

All your doing by adding another relay coil into the circuit is increasing the chances of a failure.

The extension lead is OK, but once again, if you are going to go to the trouble of setting this all up for the long term, 1.5mm will do a better job and really isn't that more expensive.

A totally unnecessary venture.. Why not step it up to 2.5mm... 4mm? Or even 10mm... The limits are boundless. :huh:

 

[Bada Bing Brewery]

View attachment 43173

Hi Mate, Just wandering if you could help....i just ordered 1 of these. only cooling rquired. Do i simply connect power cord of fridge to 7 and 8? temp sensor to 3 and 4 and power supply to 1 and 2? or do i have to join anything else

Maybe bround_dog can clear this up for us??? I too have just got a STC 1000 and for cooling only. Any advice appreciated.

 

[michael_aussie]

Maybe bround_dog can clear this up for us??? I too have just got a STC 1000 and for cooling only. Any advice appreciated.

No, you can't just connect your fridge to the "cooling" terminals and your heat pad to the "heating" outputs.
There are heaps of wiring diagrams on this forum on many different threads showing how to wire up a STC1000.

You could use BrownDogs wiring diagram in the 5th posting of this thread, and instead of wiring to 5 & 6, wire to 7 & 8.

 

[michael_aussie]

IMO I wouldn't use an STC1000 to directly control a 10A load for extended periods.
... I wouldn't run a 10A load directly off the unit.

Why?
A contact or cable/cord 'rated' to 10A is a contact/cable/cord capable of allowing that amount of current to pass through its conductors for an indefinite period of time without heat increase, significant enough so as to reduce the effective current carrying capacity of said conductors below its rated current carrying capacity.
Conductors rated to 10A are easily capable of handling larger currents for seconds at a time, such as motor starting currents @ 50A for eg.

I would wire an external relay to the output and wire the load to the external relay.
this will ensure your STC1000 has a longer life.

Not true. The STC-1000's relays are designed for continuous and comfortable 10A flow @ 240V ie. 2.4KW, 2400W.
To suggest that 10A (continuously) will degrade the contacts AT ALL is silly.

All your doing by adding another relay coil into the circuit is increasing the chances of a failure.

The extension lead is OK, but once again, if you are going to go to the trouble of setting this all up for the long term, 1.5mm will do a better job and really isn't that more expensive.

A totally unnecessary venture.. Why not step it up to 2.5mm... 4mm? Or even 10mm... The limits are boundless. :huh:

Hi BrownDog,
When I saw your posting immediately above mine, and I was in direct contradiction to you, it didn't surprise me to see you post again.

I will stress, my posting was my opinion.
My posting is what I would do.

I own four STC1000s, and use them to run fridges and a freezer.
IMO (in my opinion) the STC1000s are a great inexpensive unit to control a fridge.
However, IMO, the STC1000 is inexpensive because it is made from relatively low quality components. Although the unit is rated as 10A, running something at its rated capacity is less than ideal. Also, my units had that plastic smell from day 1, and that was without a load fitted.

I stand by my statement, that if I was going to run a 10A load from a STC1000, I would spend the extra $10 or $15 and buy and fit a slave relay. IMO cheap insurance.

The people posting on this forum are after facts AND opinions. I am stating my opinion, and an honest appraisal of what I would do in their position.

Im not wrong because its my opinion and its what I would do.

Cortez The Killer is welcome to do what ever he wants to do.

2c worth.

 

[Nevalicious]

Maybe bround_dog can clear this up for us??? I too have just got a STC 1000 and for cooling only. Any advice appreciated.

Try here

but make this modification to the earthing

Instead of taking the active to terminal 5, through the n/o contact and out through terminal 6... Take it to terminal 7 and out through 8 to the active of your fridge/unswitched socket etc. Nuetrals and Earths remain as is in the second link

:icon_cheers:

Nev

 

[Nevalicious]

Hi BrownDog,
When I saw your posting immediately above mine, and I was in direct contradiction to you, it didn't surprise me to see you post again.

I will stress, my posting was my opinion.
My posting is what I would do.

I own four STC1000s, and use them to run fridges and a freezer.
IMO (in my opinion) the STC1000s are a great inexpensive unit to control a fridge.
However, IMO, the STC1000 is inexpensive because it is made from relatively low quality components. Although the unit is rated as 10A, running something at its rated capacity is less than ideal. Also, my units had that plastic smell from day 1, and that was without a load fitted.

I stand by my statement, that if I was going to run a 10A load from a STC1000, I would spend the extra $10 or $15 and buy and fit a slave relay. IMO cheap insurance.

The people posting on this forum are after facts AND opinions. I am stating my opinion, and an honest appraisal of what I would do in their position.

Im not wrong because its my opinion and its what I would do.

Cortez The Killer is welcome to do what ever he wants to do.

2c worth.

I'm with you mate. 100% agree with this. No way would I be switching 10A loads through one of these. I too own a couple, but they control a couple of fridges and one globe inside one of the fridges. The most current draw I get is somewhere around 170w. I have no qualms switching less than 1A at any one time...

You'd run a Birko or Crown urn with a $16 STC-1000 and expect it to last... I wouldn't...

Slave contactor or relay FTW

Also, use appropriate wiring for the job. 1mm sq flex may have a current carrying capacirty of 10A, but it will heat up and over time with extended periods of current draw, will most likely experience some form of insulation breakdown.

Nev

 

[Rodolphe01]

I have been using my fridgemate in combination with a timer to control my 2400w urn for getting to trike temp (so my urn is ready for mash in at some crazy hour of the morning). I bought a second controller (stc-1000, hasn't arrived yet) for doing this more often and when i am using my fridgemate for fermenting.

Would I be better off using the 'real' fridgemate for the urn, not using either at all, or it doesn't matter as it is only really switching on once?

I could just use the timer as I pretty much know the temp rise time, however the other day I got held up and ended up getting home late, if i had used a timer my strike water would of been boiling, with the fridgemate in coltrol it was ready to go.

 

[beerdrinkingbob]

Maybe bround_dog can clear this up for us??? I too have just got a STC 1000 and for cooling only. Any advice appreciated.

This diagram made the most sense to me, although diagram is a little on the rough side for some reason I was able to follow it easier.

and this is the thread

Good luck mate, it's not hard once you find the right picture that meshes with you brain the best!!

 

[Bada Bing Brewery]

This diagram made the most sense to me, although diagram is a little on the rough side for some reason I was able to follow it easier.

and this is the thread

Good luck mate, it's not hard once you find the right picture that meshes with you brain the best!!

Beerdrinkingbob - thats what I'm talking about - something at my level, colours and squiggly lines. Easy as ....... many thanks

 

[Nick JD]

I just set up a STC1000 temperature controller and thought I'd better say how I nearly broke it setting it up.

The terminals for the cooling relay (7 and 8) in and out appeared to be like the others - wound right out so the wire can be inserted and tightened - but they were wound right in. Really tight. So much so that I bent the crap out of the plastic terminal block loosening them off and I'm really surprised it didn't break the connection.

Just a heads up. I straightened the terminal block and it's running fine. Not sure if others have done this too - but if you buy an extension cord and cut it you have cheap, sealed male and female plugs ready to go.

This diagram is great. Thanks to whoever drew it :icon_cheers: .

Testing to see if I broke it! All good - cooling turned on and off.

Total cost is under $25 (box and connector block from jaycar and extension cord from bunnings).

Questions: what does everyone set the compressor delay to? Can I leave it at the default 3 minutes?

What about the difference set value? Does setting this too small make the thing turn on and off too much?

 

[raven19]

Questions: what does everyone set the compressor delay to? Can I leave it at the default 3 minutes?

What about the difference set value? Does setting this too small make the thing turn on and off too much?

Nice build fella.

I have not touched the settings (apart from temperature) in mine since it arrive. I have had no issues for fridge (or HLT for that matter) control thus far.

 

[beerbrewer76543]

Compressor delay doesn't really matter as far as I know...

The difference set value will determine the temperature band your brew will sit between. I set mine for 1.5 degrees so the fridge motor isn't going on and off too frequently

You can also calibrate the sensor using the F4 function. Put the probe in icy water for a reference temp of 0*C then adjust the F4 value to show the temp as 0*C. I had accidentally changed mine on the weekend so I was fermenting at 16*C instead of 18*C. I wondered why my 1469 was taking so long to take off. Fixed it last night and its at 19*C now (day 4)

Cheers :icon_cheers:

 

[ThatKiwiFella]

I too was wondering about the compressor delay setting... I have mine set to the max (10 minutes) but that is only because I have a really really old freezer and I didn't want it cycling on/off all the time. Also being a chest freezer the insulation is pretty good - I do find it over shoots a bit though (1 - 1.5 degrees) but I can live with that.

I too am interested to see what others thoughts are on the delay?

 

[wood88]

This diagram is great. Thanks to whoever drew it :icon_cheers:

Glad you found it useful

 

[bradsbrew]

Can you get similar jiffy boxes from bunnings? I know you can get them from jaycar and CB but bunnings is on the way home.

Cheers

 

[Cortez The Killer]

I've had mine running at 10 mins

Cheers

 

[Nick JD]

Can you get similar jiffy boxes from bunnings? I know you can get them from jaycar and CB but bunnings is on the way home.

Cheers

I didn't look - but they must have something that would hold it.

That box was $6. It was easy to drill and cut with a fine-tooth metal jigsaw blade. I think it's ABS plastic.

It's also upside down, but that made it easier to wire.

 

[TBird]

Does anybody know if a Thermocouple K Type probe temperature sensor will work with the STC 1000?

I've seen them on e-Bay and being stainless I thought about buying one to put into the wort (if it will work).

Thanks and cheers

 

[toadskin]

Does anybody know if a Thermocouple K Type probe temperature sensor will work with the STC 1000?

I've seen them on e-Bay and being stainless I thought about buying one to put into the wort (if it will work).

Thanks and cheers

I was thinking along similar lines. I sent an email to the manufacturer and am awaiting their reply. I'll let you know.