Stc 1000 Temp Controller

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F2: Temperature difference (mine are set to 0.3 to 0.5)
F3: Compressor delay time (mine are set to 3mins)
F4: Temperature Calibration (as appropriate, mine is default, check with your own accurate thermometer)

Thanks mate.

Going to improve the insulation as well.
 
Just installed my stc-1000 today. It was really easy after reading all the advice and tips on this forum. Ive included some pics.
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http://www.back2basicshomebrew.com.au/inde...gory_pathway=26

$89.95
6amp Temp Controller with Auto Switching Independent Heat & Cool
All in a contained box with plug sockets

** Note this unit is factory made and certified**
Now that the summer weather is here it is harder to keep your brew cool, the easiest way is to use one of these connected to your fridge or freezer. You can keep making your favourite lager beer all though the hot summer months.
Do you have a consistency problem between your brews? Sometime its fantastic other times its just average and you have done everything the same as before, this might mean that you have temperature fluctuation thats affecting the taste of your brew, this can be eliminated by the use of this temperature controller, your brew will stay at a predetermined temperature and will only fluctuate 0.1 Deg C. Perfect brew every time.
You can use this all year round in your fridge/freezer even in cold weather. To keep the ambient temperature above your pre-set temperature e.g. 15⁰ and at night it gets down below this and above this through the day, just put a heat pad in your fridge/freezer (not under your fermenter) This will Keep your brew at one temperature all year round.

Includes:

Temperature Probe
Instructions
Control Panel and box

Features:

Broad temperature operating range (-45⁰C 120⁰C) and high accuracy.
Comes with included temperature probe
0.1 ⁰C Accuracy
High and Low Temperature Alarm with Optional Alarm Delay
Celsius and Fahrenheit display option
Independent Heating and Cooling Delay Start Control
16amp Heating or Cooling capacity
Inbuilt alarm
Fridge On or Heater On Indicator Icon
do they come with ether a test tag or compliance number? you might find its illegal to sell otherwise.
 



2) The user instructions supplied with my unit were entirely in Chinese, yes they quickly sent a pdf in English.
The translation is poor & instructions are garbled so I will have to experiment.

5) I am still not convinced the 10 amp switching circuit, is good long term to direct switch the compressor, which is an inductive load. I emailed the manufacturers on this but as you might expect - no response.

You can Google instructions that are coherent


If you want overkill spend $3 on a solid state relay from China on eBay and wire that up. If you got a big enough nifty box you could fit it all together.
 
If you want overkill spend $3 on a solid state relay from China on eBay and wire that up. If you got a big enough nifty box you could fit it all together.


I was under the impression the STC1000 was switching 240V? yet the 3 buck ssr's i find have a switching requirement of DC 3-32volt...
 
I was under the impression the STC1000 was switching 240V? yet the 3 buck ssr's i find have a switching requirement of DC 3-32volt...

The STC just has relays for the heating/cooling, not switched 240V outputs, so you can switch what ever you like. Of course if you want to switch an SSR with (say) 12V you'll need a 12V power supply aswell.
 
Thanks to everyone who have contributed to this thread. Lots of invaluable information for us novices. I've got my STC1000 working and currently looking for a brew fridge on ebay. Can't wait to brew a lager for summer.

Daryl
 
Some doubt I see remains about the switching capacity of the STC 1000 controller.

I was also concerned that direct switching of the fridge compressor might be asking a bit too much.

Bearing in mind the popularity of this unit & its low price I was determined to resolve the issue.

I exchanged several emails with the manufacturer & although the initial response was a bit slow; I was advised definitively that the unit is designed to direct switch fridge compressors.
A touch of common sense here of course, we are talking domestic type fridges.
 
Some doubt I see remains about the switching capacity of the STC 1000 controller.

I was also concerned that direct switching of the fridge compressor might be asking a bit too much.

Bearing in mind the popularity of this unit & its low price I was determined to resolve the issue.

I exchanged several emails with the manufacturer & although the initial response was a bit slow; I was advised definitively that the unit is designed to direct switch fridge compressors.
A touch of common sense here of course, we are talking domestic type fridges.

I would not be too concerned with fridge compressors. I'm switching a 2400w element with one (also 2200w, and 2000w and 1850w setups) and have had no issues.

QldKev
 
I would not be too concerned with fridge compressors. I'm switching a 2400w element with one (also 2200w, and 2000w and 1850w setups) and have had no issues.

QldKev

I fitted one to a 3 door drink fridge with a drop in Kirby Compressor unit and used it for 3 and a half years.
I then moved house and sold it to a local pub and they are using it for bottle stocks for the bar. New owners in the pub I believe but afaik it is still going strong.
Cheers
 
G'day all,

Finally got my STC-1000 hooked up to my chest freezer, but I've run into a problem. Apparently, my freezer cools too well?

I have it set on 18C temp, 0.5C differential, 3 minute delay, default calibration.

When it hits 18C the compressor shuts down, but the temperature continues to drop all the way down to about 16.5C (it switches on the heat function but no heater attached) ... then it (very slowly) rises to 18.5C ... at which stage it blows all the way back down to 16.5C again ... I have the probe just hanging inside the freezer at the moment for testing purposes - could that be the problem? Measuring air rather than liquid?

I've tried setting the differential to 0.3C (the minimum) because I figured the compressor wouldn't be on as long going from 18.3C, but it still fell down to 16.5C.

There is a "Coldness" gauge on the side of the freezer, which is set to maximum. I have no idea if that controls the operating strength of the compressor or if it controls the final temperature (which is irrelevant given the STC-1000).

EDIT: Set the "Coldness gauge to 50% of maximum. Still blows down to 16.5C so there goes that theory.
 
You could just turn down the dial on the freezer so it doesn't cool so quickly.
 
You could just turn down the dial on the freezer so it doesn't cool so quickly.
Turned it down to its minimum and it still goes down to 16C or worse. I've put the probe in water now to see if it's maybe an airflow thing, might make it more stable.
 
G'day all,

Finally got my STC-1000 hooked up to my chest freezer, but I've run into a problem. Apparently, my freezer cools too well?

I have it set on 18C temp, 0.5C differential, 3 minute delay, default calibration.

When it hits 18C the compressor shuts down, but the temperature continues to drop all the way down to about 16.5C (it switches on the heat function but no heater attached) ... then it (very slowly) rises to 18.5C ... at which stage it blows all the way back down to 16.5C again ... I have the probe just hanging inside the freezer at the moment for testing purposes - could that be the problem? Measuring air rather than liquid?

I've tried setting the differential to 0.3C (the minimum) because I figured the compressor wouldn't be on as long going from 18.3C, but it still fell down to 16.5C.

There is a "Coldness" gauge on the side of the freezer, which is set to maximum. I have no idea if that controls the operating strength of the compressor or if it controls the final temperature (which is irrelevant given the STC-1000).

EDIT: Set the "Coldness gauge to 50% of maximum. Still blows down to 16.5C so there goes that theory.



The air has no thermal mass. Throw a fermenter full of water in the and attached the probe to the side under some form insulation from the air. The thermal mass of the water will fix it up for you.

QldKev
 
+1 test on thermal mass. I used mine with a ss probe in about 1 litre of water to test it when I got it and thought f%$k my average reptile heater isnt going to cut it, then when a good 18 litres was in there the whole system maintains itself perfectly.
 
That's good to know. I'm not a physicist or anything but that all makes sense. I'll be brewing a batch tomorrow, my first with temperature control and in Darwin that's saying something. Thanks all.
 
I'm not sure any of the explanations here concerning "thermal mass" & temp under/overshoot are on target.
Some lag will always occur in controlling such systems but without any STC-1000 controller my old fridge does better than the situation described.
If you attempt to control an oven or even an "electric frypan", similar problems arise even with the best controllers available ( and some work predictively). In such cases the thermal mass causing response delay is large & significant elements are often well beyond the temp of materials in close proximity to the sensing probe.

I'm fairly sure there are reports in this (and other) threads giving feedback about very adequate control.
Placing the probe in a bottle of water or similar, is plainly a sound approach, but 18 litres is surely going a bit far.
 
how big is your fermenting vessel?

you are using the *unit to control the temperature of the device (fridge/freezer) the actual internal air temp doesnt really matter as long as the wort is at the correct temps.

*ed
 
how big is your fermenting vessel?

I was only testing air temperature last night. I guess I've been out of school for too long, I didn't think how the temperatures fluctuations might change in a large vessel of liquid compared to the air inside the freezer. :rolleyes:

For fermenting I'm using a couple of those trusty blue Willow containers. I'm putting down a beer tonight so we'll see how it goes.
 

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