Stalled at 1016?

[verysupple]

Back on topic. It really sounds like you fined three days after pitching. I'm pretty sure that's not what the salesman meant. He probably meant fine three days after the SG is stable (using a hydrometer) and close to the expected FG. If he really did tell you to fine three days after pitching I wouldn't be going back there unless you have no other options.

But now you've come to the right place for info. So take the advice in this thread about correcting this batch (or not if you choose), and next time make sure it's properly finished fermenting before putting your yeasties to sleep.

 

[Micko71]

Yea that's what he meant. I said 'really ' he said 'it's the new way'. Lesson learnt.

Anyhoo. I've given it a swirl and put the heater on for couple hours. It's cold here today so hopefully it'll get a 'jumpstart' and finish off. There's bubble activity but I'm guessing it's just co2 discharge from the swirling. It's happening too early.

Fingers crossed. Thanks for the help !

 

[Micko71]

even says it on their pack.

I've got a munton pils that has stalled at 16 too. It's got a booster bag in it. I don't get it.

 

[Micko71]

And I hadn't fined it yet.

 

[scmgre]

[SIZE=10.5pt]how alcoholic is the pils? if it's too alcoholic it can stop the yeast, depending on the strain.[/SIZE]

 

[Micko71]

Pils is 4.2%

 

[Droopy Brew]

No problems there.

Next beer you do try these things to get the yeasties going.

1) About an hour before putting your beer down, mix up 500ml of water with 50gm of dry malt or dex or a splash of liquid malt extract in a cleaned and sanitised glass bottle (eg juice bottle).
Tip your yeast into that and put some glad wrap over it secured with an elastic band. This will get the yeast active and multiplying. If you are just using tap water for mixing your ingredients then just use straight tap water for this process.

2) Buy some yeast nutrient from the HBS. put a tsp into boiling water and boil for about 15 minutes. Add this to your hot water addition when mixing up your malt and powders.

3) Aerate the wort. If you aren't already- you need to beat that bitch into a foaming frenzy when you top up with water. Yeast needs O2 to grow so introduce heaps of O2 at the start of the process. Don't worry about oxidation- this only occurs during or after fermentation or when the wort is hot if doing an AG or extract brew( hot side aeration). A plastic paddle on an cordless drill or a stainless air stone and pump will do the job.

4) If the place you buy the yeast from has it sitting on a shelf and not in a fridge- find somewhere else to buy from.

1.016 is not bad but it isnt great for a low OG brew. Doing these things and you should expect to hit 1.010 regularly.

 

[Micko71]

Great info DBrew. Thanks a lot. I was told the yeast in the muntons higher end range eg: connosuer range had very good yeast. Is this correct ?

I just did a brew today and deciding I'm over the last few brews being around 4.2 or less, I added 500gm ldm and gave it the 14+1 minute hop hit with 15g Amarillo and about 3 g saaz (just cause I had it ) both times.

It gave me 60 og.

I used the muntons yeast and it was a connosuers traditional bitter. Would the so5 have been a better choice ?

Thanks again. And I usually turn the tap full on when filling barrel and it almost overflows with foam. I think it's pretty aerated. Cheers. Micko.